A^^■ 



\^- 



.V 



TRIP 



WEST AND TEXAS. 

COMPRISING 
A JOURNEY OF EIGHT THOUSAND MILES, 

THROUGH 

NEW-YORK, MICHIGAN, ILLINOIS, MISSOURI, LOUISIANA AND 
TEXAS, IN THE AUTUMN AND WINTER OF 

1834—5. 

INTERSPERSED WITH iNECDOTES, INCIDENTS 
AND OBSERVATIONS. 

WITH A BRIEF SKETCH 

OF THE 

TEXIAIV WAR. 



BY A. A. PARKER, ESQ. 



Secontr iStrttCom 



CONCORD, N. H.: 

PUBLISHED BY WILLIAM WHITE 

BOSTON: 

BENJAMIN B. M^USSEY. 
18 3 6, 



Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1835, 

By White & Fisher, 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of New-Hampshire. 






PREFACE. I 

The author of this work, unknown to fame, 
and unacquainted with the art of book-making, has 
endeavored, in the following pages, to give some ac- 
count of the great Western and Southern Coun- 
try. In performing this task, he has not attempt- 
ed the regions of fancy and fiction; but has told 
his own story — ^' a plain unvarnished tale," in his 
own way. And although it may not indicate much 
depth of research, or possess all the graces of pol- 
ished diction and charms of novelty, yet he hopes 
it may be found to contain information sufficient to 
repay a perusal. 

He spent five months on his journey, and exam- 
ined the country through which he passed, as much 
as time would permit : — Its soil, climate and pro- 
ductions — the manners, customs and health of the 
inhabitants — the animals, reptiles and insects-=-in 
short, all things favorable and unfavorable in the 
New World. He has freely spoken of the coun- 
try just as it appeared to him ; and he believes the 
information this work purports to give, may be safe- 
ly relied upon. But if it should be found to con- 



IV PREFACE. 

tain errors of fact, or of opinion, he is confident 
they will be deemed unintentional. 

It would have been quite easy to make a much 
larger book of the author's travels ; and had he fol- 
lowed the example set him by some of the journal- 
ists of the day, he should have done so. But his 
object was not to make a large and expensive vol- 
ume. He has given in a concise form, such de- 
scriptions, incidents and anecdotes only, as he be- 
lieves may instruct and amuse, and enable the pub- 
lic to form a correct opinion of the country. How 
he has succeeded in his undertaking, others, of 
course, will judge for themselves ; he hopes this 
little work may be found not entirely destitute of 
useful and entertaining matter, and prove an ac- 
ceptable offering to his friends and fellow-citizens. 

In the appendix, will be found a particular de- 
scription of Michigan, and a Brief Sketch of the 
Texian Revolutionary War. 

In this sketch, the author has consulted all the 
accounts given of this sanguinary war, and he be- 
lieves it will be found correct in all its essential par- 
ticulars ; but he does not wish to conceal the fact, 
that amidst the hurry and bustle of a Revolution 
perfect accuracy is hardly attainable. 



C O N T EJSr T S . 



CHAPTER I. 

Objects of the Trip — Albany, situation and appearance— Erie ca- 
nal basin — western travellers — rail road— canal boats, packets, line 
boats and scows — accommodations — number of boats — mode of pas- 
sing each other — tow-pathbridges — accident in crossing — Erie canal 
— Villages and grog-shops — Trenton falls — Ithaca falls — Taghcan- 
ic falls — Rochester — canal aqueduct — Genesee falls — Sam Patch's 
last leap — flouring mills— Lockport — double canal locks — deep cut 
— arrival at Buffalo. Page, 13 

CH4PTER II. 

The city of Buffalo — steamboat on the Niagara river — Fort Erie — 
Black Rock — visit to Niagara falls — Canada shore — Manchester — 
State of New-York — emigration — return to Buffalo — different routes 
to the West — passage in steamboat — Cleaveland — Maumee — Mon- 
roe — number of emigrants — vessels on the lake — Detroit — the Can- 
ada shore — ferry boats. 25 
CHAPTER III. 

Travelling by stage to the mouth of St. Joseph river — miry roads — 
Ann Arbor — Upsilanti — oak openings — prairies and wooodland — 
Michigan, level, clear water, but not pure—Jackson — Marshall — 
Gull lake and prairie — Kalamazoo river — Bronson — Pawpaw riv- 
er — St. Joseph village — lake Michigan — misfortune of an emigrant 
— crossing the lake — Michigan city — stage road on the beach. 35 
CHAPTER IV. 

Chicago, a general description thereof — Pattawattomle tribe of Indi- 
ans, their appearance and actions — the land back of Chicago — the 
lakes and their original outlet through the Illinois river — character 
of the inhabitants of Chicago — house rent and provisions. 43 

CHAPTER V. 

Trip to Fox river — fellow travellers — river Oplane — Du Page river 
' Naper's settlement — big and little woods — pieasani settlement 
1* 



b CONTENTS. 

of emigrants-»-Fox river — upper house — lost in a prairie at night — 
log house — travelling towards Rock river— gravel hills — Walker's 
grove. 51 

CHAPTER VI. 

General description of the north part of Illinois — various kinds of trees 
— praries — excellent coal— government grant of land — unsurveyed 
land settled upon — pre-emption right — not subject to fever and ague 
— wild game— prairie wolves and mode of killing them — prairie 
rattle snakes, blackbirds and squirrels — manner of judging of a new 
country — anecdote of a Vermont emigrant — New-Hampshire emi- 
gi-ant — statements of settlers and landholders not always to be 
credited. 57 

CHAPTER VII. 

Holderman's Grove — Ottawa — junction of Fox and Illinois rivers — 

Hennipen — Princeton — present and past situation of an emigrant — 

massacre of Elijah Philips by the Indians, and the fortunate escape 

of his companions. 66 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Peoria — beauty of the surrounding country — fever and ague — scholars 
studying aloud in school — stages from Peoria — anecdote of a tavern 
keeper — Illinois river — passage down it in a steamboat — narrow 
lakes — high bluflfs — Pekin — Beardstown — Naples — ai-rival at upper 
Alton. 74 

CHAPTER IX. 

General description of the state of Illinois — streams skirted with tim- 
ber — more than half prairie — a level State — generally rich soil — 
American bottom — military bounty lands — beautiful region of San- 
gamon river — the best tracts of land in the State — more good land 
than any other State — cause of the existence of praries — country 
once inhabited by a civilized race anterior to the Indians — its rivers, 
Kankakee, Oplane, Du Page, Fox, Illinois, Rock, Spoon, Kaskas- 
kia, Wabash, &c. — lead mines — productions — railk-sickness — chief 
towns — schools, &c. 79 

CHAPTER X. 

Burning of the prairies — backwoodsmen — society — meeting-houses and 
school-houses — what kind of goods an emigrant ought to take with 
him — cheapness of provisions — manner of commencing a settlement 
— ploughing the prairies — guarding the improvements against the 
prairie fires — ^junction of the Missouri with the Mississippi — arrival 
at St. Louis — a description of the town — steam ferry boat. 92 



CONTENTS. 7 

CHAPTER XI. 

General description of the state of Missouri — south part generally 
barren, or wet and unhealthy — soil not muddy — prairie on the Mis- 
sissippi — banks of the Missouri — large prairies destitute of wood 
and water — productions — prairie blossoms — wild animals, snakes, 
&c. — dryness and purity of the atmosphere — diseases — mildness of 
the wintex" — lead mines and minerals — chief towns. 99 

CHAPTER XII. 

Voyage down the Slississippi in a steamboat — high bluffs — screw au- 
ger grist mills — shot towers — curiosities — dangersof the Mississippi 
navigation — narrow escape — run aground on a sand bar— mouth of 
the Ohio — cargo of the boat — amusements on board — history of one 
the ladies — "Queen of the Nile" — description of the steamboat — 
price of passage — wooding the boat — ludicrous fracas on board — 
noise of the boats, &c. — peculiarities of expression of the western 
people — names of money. 107 

CHAPTER Xni. 

Independent frankness of the western people — eastern people — towns 
on the river — great earthquake at New Madrid — bluffs on the riever 
— woodcutters — serpentine course of the Blississippi — negro slaves 
on board — one died of the cholera — benefit of steamboat navigation 
— flat boats still in use. 119 

CHAPTER XIV. 

Arrival at Natchez — 'description of the city — starts for Texas with an- 
other traveller — cotton plantations — description of the cotton plant — 
passage through the great Mississippi swamp — cypress knees, water 
and mud — Tensaw river — overtaken by night in the swamp — gloomy 
situation— lake Lovelace — planter's house on Indian mound — mild- 
ness of the w^eather — good accommodations — travelling in a right 
spirit — anecdote of a testy traveller. 126 

CHAPTER XV. 

Outlet of the lake — Washita river — Harrisonburg — pine woods — de- 
scription of a planter — Red River rightly named^changes at its 
mouth — arrival at Alexandria and description of die place — race- 
course and horses — death of a gambler — fruit trees and vegetables — 
moschetoes. 134 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Bayou Rapide — fine cotton plantations — stream running in opposite 
directions — accompanied by another traveller — pine woods — plant- 



8 CONTENTS. 

er's house — price of meals, &c. — Spanish moss — bottom land cov- 
ered with dense forest — pine woods — the widow's house — manner 
of lodging travellers — inquisitiveness of the people — emigrants to 
Texas — Sabine river. 139 

CHAPTER XVII. 

Arrival in Texas — oak openings and prairies — plantations of corn and 
cotton — St. Augustine—arrival at Nacogdoches — its grotesque ap- 
pearance — Indian trade in deer pelts — Galveston bay and Texas land 
company — four leagues of land for a dog — pine woods — Indian 
mounds — mounds in Ohio, Missouri and Illinois — Monastery near 
a mound — their origin and use — Neches river — new made bridge. 

149 
CHAPTER XVIII. 

Leave the pine woods — wet prairie — Trinity river — planter's house — 
death of an emigrant's wife — perplexities of emigration — an em- 
igrant lost his money — breach of trust in a hired man — beautiful 
prairies — muddy streams — red cedar — petrified wood — mode of 
grinding corn — living from hand to mouth— beautiful prospect — In- 
dians on horseback — massacre of twenty Polanders — muddy swamp 
— Brazos river — Spanish trader — Indians more friendly to Ameri- 
cans than Spaniards — prairie country — Cole's settlement — live oak- 
Colorado river. 160 
CHAPTER XIX. 

General View of Texas — herds of buffalo and wild horses- 
mustangs manner of catching — seacost flat — Galveston bay and 
Texas land company — burning of the prairies — fine grazing country 
— wild game — deer-hunting— shooting deer in the night — produc- 
tions of the soil — list of forest trees — Spanish moss — health of the 
counti'y and climate. 169 

CHAPTER XX. 

Rivers of Texas — seacoast — mill-seats — land grants — number of inhab- 
itants— exports — inhabitants indolent — cheapness of land and man- 
ner of obtaining it — reptiles and animals — panther — flies — mosche- 
toes — Indian tribes — water too warm. 182 

CHAPTER XXI. 

Towns in Texas — Spanish villages — Mexican garrisons — Texas — 
mechanics — Texas and Cohahuila united — courts of law — profes- 
sional men — unlawful punishments — salt lake — negroes indented — 
boundaries of Texas — general appearance of the country — rainy 
season — roads and carriages — emigration. 196 



CONTENTS. 9 

CHAPTER XXII. 

Emigrants unhappy — Mexican republic unsettled — Col. Austin — im- 
prisonment — Texians slandered — healthy portions of the country — 
what an emigrant ought to take with him — price of stock — mail 
routes — currency — best spot in Texas — emigrant puzzled — how prop- 
erty may be acquired. 204 
CHAPTER XXIII. 
Arrival at San Felipe — billiard room — gambler shot — bloody affray 
about a lady — ten men to one woman in the country — arrival at Co- 
lumbia and Bell's landing — started down river in a canoe — Brazo- 
ria — went on board a vessel — hunting excursion of the mate — Bra- 
zos river— Velasco — sandy beach. 213 
CHAPTER XXIV. 
Passed over the bar and left Texas — reasons for emigrating in the 
fall — means for going to Texas — speculation — passengers on board — 
sea sickness — vessel run aground — Mississippi steam tow-boats — 
sugar plantations and negroes — making sugar. 222 
CHAPTER XXV. 
City of New-Orleans — vessels in port — muddy streets and filthy gut- 
ters — houses of dissipation — character of the inhabitants — resort of 
knaves and vagabonds — ship yards — canal and railroad — no wharves. 

228 
CHAPTER XXVI. 

Start down the river — nunnery — battle-ground — negro slavery — the sit- 
uation of the negroes — general views on the subject. 235 
CHAPTER XXVn. 

General description of the Mississippi river — its source — 
its tributaries — Wisconsin and Illino is — Missouri, its source and 
tributaries — gates of the Rocky mountains — Ohio river, its general 
character and appearance — White, Arkansas and Red rivers — out- 
lets of Uie Blississippi — falls of St. Anthony — Dacota Indian woman 
— river banks — width of the stream and depth of water — Mississip- 
pi swamp — serpentine course — color of the waters — the most inter- 
esting river in the world. 246 
CHAPTER XXVIII. 

Sail for Boston — sea voyage disagreeable to a landsman — change of 
scenery — Chatham, Boston — arrival at home. 262 

CHAPTER XXIX. 

Retrospective Glance at the Great Mississippi Valley — 
character, appearance and natural productions — conclusion. 266 



10 CONTENTS. 

APPENDIX. 

Michigan, 285 — population, 285 — face of the country, 286 — Wayne 
county, 292 — Monroe county, 294 — Washtenaw county, 295 — Ma 
comb county, 297— Oakland county, 299 — St. Clair county, 301 — 
St. Joseph county, S02 — Cass county, 304 — Berrien county, 306— 
Lapeer and Saginaw counties, 308 — Shiawassee county, 309 — Cal- 
houn county, 309 — Kalamazoo county, 310 — Branch and Hillsdale 
counties, 311 — Lenawee county, 812 — Barry, Eaton and Ingham 
counties on grand river, 312. 

TEXIAN REVOLUTION. 



FIRST CAMPAIGN. 

Introductory remarks, 323 — causes of the war, 324 — parallel case, 326 
— Col. Austin released and sent to Texas, 329 — capture of the arm- 
ed schooner Correo, 330 — first battle on land at Gonzales, 331— 
capture of Goliad, 333 — Col. Milam, 335 — army marched towards 
San Antonio, 339— San Antonio besieged, 340 — Commissioners to 
the United States appointed, 340 — San Antonio stormed and taken, 
341— the brave Col. Milam killed, and sketch of his life, 342. 

Gen. Mexia's expedition, 345 — 28 men shot at Tampico, 347 — vol- 
unteers from the United States — Col. Stanley'sregiment, 348— Gen- 
eral Council convened, and citizens of Goliad make a declaration of 
independence, 349 — state of aftairs in Mexico, decree of Santa An- 
na, 851 — embargo laid, 352 — Indians called to aid Santa Anna, 353 
— flag of Texas, 354 — post-offices and mail routes, 354 — Mexicans 
preparing for another campaign, 355 — situation of Texas, 356. 

SECOND CAMPAIGN. 

The Mexican army arrive in Texas, commanded by Santa Anna 
in person, 358 — Situation of San Antonio, 359 — capture and massa- 
cre of Col. Johnson's party, 860 — second attack upon the fort, 361 
— the fort attacked at midnight, taken and the garrison all slain, 362 
— Gen Cos, 365 — Declaration of Independance, 366 — officers of the 
government, 368 — Goliad abandoned, and Col. Fanning's party at- 
tacked in the prairie, 369 — Col. Fanning surrenders, and his party 
massacred, 370. 



CONTENTS. 11 

Gen. Houston retreats to the Brazos, 371 — the inhabitants become 
alarmed and flee, 371 — massacre at Copano, 372 — skirmish at sea, 
372 — Gen. Gaines marches to the frontier of Texas, 372 — Indians on 
the western prairies, 373— CAPTURE OF SANTA ANNA, 375— 
the Independence of Texas certain, 378 — Texian Independence agita- 
ted in U. S. Congress, 378— Table of the Chief Towns in Texas and 
distances from San Felipe, 380. 



ADVERTISEMENT. 



The public approbation of this work, so fully manifested by a rapid 
and entire sale of the first edition, has induced the publishers to issue 
another, much enlarged and improved edition. The broad expanse of 
country, stretching from the Alleghany mountains to the Pacific ocean, 
much of which is unsurveyed, unsettled and unexplored, is an interest- 
ing portion of the United States. It 13 believed, there are two hun- 
dred million acres of public lands yet unsurveyed in Wisconsin Terri- 
tory — fifty millions in Michigan — and 800 millions in Missouri, Missi- 
sippi, and Arkansas. To all these, are to be added the illimitable 
tracts, hardly yet trodden by the foot of civilized man, which lie in the 
unpeopled immensity, on both sides of the rocky mountains. The val- 
ue of this vast domain, at the minimum government price, defies all 
calculation. What a source of revenue for the present and the future ! 

But when the boundless resources that now lie hidden in its hills and 
mountains shall have become developed — when the vast plains shall 
have been settled — and towns, villages and farm houses arise in the 
lonely wilderness, and the teeming soil be cultivated — who then will be 
able to estimate the value of this great territory of the West? In ten 
years, the West will have a majority in the United States Congress; 
in H century, a large portion of it will contain a population as dense, 
perhaps, as that of the Atlantic States. Public attention, within a few 
years, has been directed to this section of our country — emigration has 
received a new impulse — government lands are sought for with avidity, 
and the whole country is rapidly settling. To the emigrant, specula- 
tor, and indeed, the whole people of the United States as joint owners 
of the public domain, any book giving information upon this subject, 
must be acceptable and of real value. The publishers, therefore, aa'» 
ticipate a rapid sale of the present edition. 



TRIP 



TO THE 



WEST AND TEXAS 



CHAPTER I. 

In September, 1834, I left Exeter, New-Hamp- 
shire, for the purpose of tisitmg the Western States 
and Texas. Although public attention had been for 
some time directed thither, by various published 
sketches and frequent emigration, yet so httle was 
definitely known, that I was induced to travel 
through these sections of the country to learn their 
actual situation and condition. My object was not 
to visit the settled regions of the country, a full 
knowledge of which may be obtained from books, 
but to see some portion of the unknown and unset- 
tled regions of the West and the South. My par- 
ticular attention was, therefore, directed to Michi- 
gan, Illinois, Missouri, Louisiana and Texas. 

But so rapidly are some portions of this new 
country settling ; so constantly are new villages 

2 



14 TRIP TO THE WEST 

springing up in the wilderness ; and so continually 
are improvements making, that history must con- 
tinue to lag behind the reality. To keep any thing 
like an even pace with population, and the public 
constantly informed of the actual condition of the 
country, would require, hke an almanac, an annual 
revision and publication of its history. 

I took passage on board the stage, through Brat- 
tleborough and Bennington, to Albany. About 
twelve years ago, I travelled over this route, and 
was gratified to find so many improvements in the 
villages, farms, and especially in the stage road, 
since I had travelled it before. In passing through 
Vermont, I found a new road had been made to 
avoid the high hills over which it formerly passed, 
so that now, I believe this is the easiest and safest 
route across the Green Mountains. 

Two opposition turnpikes were almost completed 
from Bennington to Troy — one entering at the 
upper, the other at the lower part of the city. The 
public have been badly accommodated in this quar- 
ter. The old road is rough, hilly and circuitous. 
One of the turnpikes would have been abundantly 
sufficient ; but if Troy chooses to make two, the 
travelling public will not probably object. Opposi- 
tion seems to be the order of the day ; and although 
it has caused much improvement in the ease and 
facility of travelling, yet it is often troublesome and 
annoying. As we drove up to the door of the 
stage house in Albany, an agent of one of the 



AND TEXAS. 15 

steamboats, thrust in his head and gave us a hand- 
bill of a boat — enquired if we were going down 
the river, and without waiting for an answer, said it 
was a good boat, swift, low pressure engine, start 
at nine in the morning, fare to New-York city only 
fifty cents. In the bar-room, we had to pass 
through the same ceremony with the agent of 
another boat ; and I had to take a third edition in 
the street next morning. 

The Erie canal terminates in a large basin, imme- 
diately on the banks of the Hudson river, so that 
the freight of the canal boats can be conveniently 
transferred to the river boats. Western travellers 
can here take passage on board the canal boat, or 
go on the railroad to Schenectady and take a boat 
there. But as the canal is twice the distance of 
the railroad, travellers generally choose the latter. 
Travellers from the North, when accompanied by 
their families and baggage, usually stop at Troy, 
and take a canal boat there, for the West. 

The ancient city of Albany has the appearance 
of much business and wealth ; and some portions 
of it are pleasant, especially in the region of the 
State House and other public buildings. From 
the river, the ground rapidly rises, so that the city 
stands upon the side of a hill, and makes a fine 
appearance, when viewed from the opposite shore. 

The railroad commences in State street, a short 
distance below the State House yard ; and so steep 
is the ascent, that the cars are drawn for a mile by 



16 TRIP TO THE WEST 

horses. Here a steam engine was hitched on, and 
we started off at a rapid rate. The distance from 
Albany to Schenectady is sixteen miles, and we 
travelled it over in less than an hour. Here we 
were assailed by the agents and captains of the 
canal boats, and those who could make the most 
noise and bustle, and obtain the most passengers, 
were the best fellows. 

There are three kinds of boats in general use on 
the canal. The Packet boats, drawn by three 
horses, and go at the rate of about five miles an 
hour. They are fitted up in good style, intended 
exclusively for passengers and their baggage — 
having elegant cabins, drawing-rooms, berths, &c. 
Fare, five cents a mile and found. 

The Line boats — designed for freight and pas- 
sengers also. These are drawn by two horses, and 
travel at the rate of two and a half or three miles 
an hour. The fare is one cent a mile for passage 
only ; and one and a half cents addition per mile, 
for board. Families travelhng to the West, gener- 
ally take the Line boats. They can travel much 
cheaper than in any other mode. They furnish 
their own provisions, and have the privilege of 
cooking on board the boat. Provisions are plenty 
and cheap, and can be bought at almost every stop- 
ping place, along the whole line of the canal. 

And the Scows, used exclusively for grain, flour, 
lumber, &c., which are employed by the farmers to 
carry their own produce to market. These ar^ 



AND TEXAS, 17 

drawn by two horses ; and many of them have two 
sets of horses, and stalls made on board to keep 
one set, while the other draw the boat; and at 
regular intervals, relieve each other. By this means, 
they keep the boat continually going, night and 
day. 

The Packet boats ply between the large towns 
on the canal, from Schenectady to Utica ; from 
Utica to Rochester, &c., so that a traveller, in go- 
ing through the whole route, must shift his baggage 
and himself from one boat to another, three or four 
times. But the Line hosts run the whole length 
of the canal, from 'Albany or Troy to Buffalo. — 
These boats are furnished with horses by a com- 
pany, who have them stationed at regular intervals 
of about twelve miles the whole distance. 

All the boats, at night, carry two briUiant lights 
in the bow, so as to enable the helmsman to steer, 
and avoid other boats when they meet. I took 
passage on board one of the Troy and Erie line. 
I found good accommodations, and good company. 
In the forward part of the boat, were the gentle- 
men's and ladies' cabins; in the stern, the dining 
and cook rooms ; and in the centre the place for 
freight. It was about seventy feet long, and twelve 
or fourteen feet in width. Three other passengers, 
besides myself, went the whole route ; a lady and 
her daughter from Pennsylvania, and a Dr. Warren 
of Rhode Island ; and way-passengers were contin- 
ually cominar aboard, and leaving the boat, at our 

2* 



18 TRIP TO THE WEST 

several stopping places. I found travelling on the 
canal pleasant, and in line weather, delightful. We 
were continually passing villages, farms, locks, via-- 
ducts, or boats ; and these, w ith the company 
aboard, afforded an agreeable variety. When I 
wished for exercise, I w^ould jump ashore, and take 
a w^alk along the hard trod tow^-path. 

I was really surprised to find so many boats on 
the canal. We met them almost every mile, and 
sometimes, three or four together. The Line boats 
are owned by companies ; and the captain told me 
that forty-five boats belonged to his line. When 
one happens to run aground, which is sometimes the 
case, when deeply laden and the water low, it is of 
course, in the centre of the canal ; so that boats 
cannot pass on either side ; in such an event, 
twenty or thirty boats will be congregated in a few 
hours. 

The boats pass each other on the left hand side, 
and without trouble or delay. The whole process 
of passing belongs to the outside boat ; or the one 
the farthest from the tow-path. All the inside 
boat has to do, is to steer near the tow-path, and 
keep on as usual. The outside boat hauls one 
way, and their horses the other, and lets the tow-» 
rope slack, so that the inside horses and boat can 
pass over it, between them. The tow-path some- 
times changes from one side to the other of the ca- 
nal ; and the horses are transferred by means of a 
bridge. They pass underneath the bridge, and 



AND TEXAS. 19 

turn up on to it the further side ; so as to keep the 
tow-rope clear of it. The riders display their 
horsemanship by whipping over these bridges at 
full speed. Accidents, however, sometimes occur. 
One day, the Packet boat passed us, a short dis- 
tance from a tow-path bridge ; and as the horses 
were going at full speed across it, the forward one 
shpped, fell over the railing, and drew the others 
after him. The rider saved himself by leaping from 
the horse to the bridge. The two forward horses 
fell into the water, and came out uninjured ; but 
the rear one fell across the edge of tl;ie tow-path 
and was killed on the spot. 

The Erie canal is a great and noble work ; and 
has gained a niche in the temple of fame, for its 
great founder. It has been of incalculable benefit 
to New- York, and the rising States in the West ; 
and must continue to be, in all time to come. Now 
it is completed, and in successful operation, men 
may cease to wonder ; but so improbable was it. 
generally thought to be, to make such a long hne 
of canal, on a route so difficult and expensive, that 
an intelligent gentleman informed me, when he was 
asked by one of the surveyors, if he should not 
admire to see boats passing before his door ; em-- 
phatically replied, if life were guaranteed till that 
event, he would then willingly resign it. A few 
years only passed, before the event did happen, but 
he is not yet quite willing to die. 



20 TRIP TO THE WEST 

It was indeed a great undertaking. None but a 
man of a gigantic mind, of steady purpose and firm 
resolution, could have conceived, planned and exe- 
cuted it. It all along bears the marks of so much 
labor and expense, that a common mind would have 
been deterred from making the attempt. The canal 
passes over an extent of country much more rough, 
broken and hilly than I had supposed. Long levels 
of canal are found to be sure ; but they are made 
at great expense, by filhng up deep gullies, winding 
round the side of hills, or deep cuts through them ; 
and by walling up the side of streams, or aque- 
ducts over them. 

Every few miles, the canal passes through a vil- 
lage. Many of these have sprung into existence, 
since the completion of the canal ; and others have 
much increased in size, wealth and beauty. They 
are all ornamented with grog-shops, containing, 
among other miscellaneous matter, an abundant sup- 
ply of "boat-stores." 

New- York has a great variety of romantic scene- 
ry. It has more beautiful and stupendous water-falls 
than any other State in the Union ; and the lover of 
nature's choicest works might very pleasantly spend 
months in viewing them. Trenton Falls, on the 
West Canada Creek, a large stream that empties 
into the Mohawk, are situated about twenty-four 
miles above its mouth. They consist of several 
chutes for the distance of two miles, commencing 
near Black river road, and terminating at Conrad's 



AND TEXAS. 21 

mills. The upper fall is about twenty feet ; and the 
descent above, for two miles, is not less than sixty 
feet. The water, here compressed into a narrow 
space, is received into a large basin, rolls down a 
precipitous ravine a hundred feet in depth, and pre- 
sents to the eye the most romantic peculiarities. — 
Some of the topmost crags overhanging the stream ; 
and here and there, a hardy tree, having gained a 
foot-hold in the crevices of the rock, throws its 
branches athwart the abyss. There are six distinct 
falls. The next below, are two pitches, called the 
Cascades ; where the water falls eighteen feet — the 
Mill Dam Fall, of thirteen feet. 

The High Falls, consisting of three pitches — one 
of forty-eight, the second of eleven, and the third, 
of thirty-seven feet — Sherman's Falls, of thirty-five 
feet. The last fall is at Conrad's mills, and is only 
six feet ; but the descent of water, from the top of 
the upper fall to the lower one, is three hundred 
and eighty-seven feet — and the whole forms as wild 
and romantic a scene as the enthusiastic lover of 
nature's most eccentric works could desire. Or- 
ganic remains have been found in the ravine in 
abundance, and Mr. Sherman has a cabinet of them, 
which are exhibited to the curious. 

Ithaca Falls are situated at the head of Cayuga 
Lake. The high fall of Fall river is the first that 
strikes the eye, in going from the steamboat land- 
ing to the village, and is one hundred and sixteen 
feet in ^-^^^'^t Tr'ii,r> >r>ii-ki<^nor^ x-i'Aov^ of xocks enclose 



22 TRIP TO THE WEST 

the stream. On the right hand high up the bluff, 
a mill-race is seen winding around a point in the 
bank, suspended in mid air ; and sometimes an ad- 
venturous visiter, may be seen cautiously wending his 
way along the dizzy path on the verge of the abyss. 
The mill-race was built, by letting a man down over 
the giddy steep by a rope fastened to a tree above, 
who dug holes in the bluff, in which to fasten its 
principal supports. A short distance from this, up 
the rocky bed of the creek, is another splendid fall- 
not so high as the first, but more wild and beauti- 
ful. Above these, are three more falls, the upper 
one of which is the highest fall of water of any, and 
is the most grand and imposing. These four falls 
have a descent of four hundred and thirty-eight feet 
in the short distance of a mile, and present to the 
eye as great a variety of the romantic and beautiful 
in nature, as earth affords. 

There are Cascadilla, Six Mile Creek, Buttermilk 
Creek, &c. &c. many romantic scenes and splendid 
falls ; but it would interfere with the design of this 
work to stop to describe them. I cannot, however, 
leave the high falls on Taghcanic Creek without a 
passing notice. They are eight miles from Ithaca, 
near a landing place called Goodwin's point ; and 
are two hundred and thirty-eight feet perpendicular ! 
Who shall attempt to describe such a magnificent 
exhibition as this ; or the effect it produces on the 
mind ! This is said to be the favorite resort of par- 
ties of pleasure and lovers of the picturesque. And 



AND TEXAS. 23 

who, but the real invalid, would ignobly spend his 
time at Saratoga, when scenes Uke these await him 
in the interior of New- York. 

After passing many fine villages, we at last arrived 
at the city of Rochester. It is indeed, a large and 
flourishing city. It is situated on both sides of 
Genesee river, is well built, mostly of brick, and con- 
tains over thirteen thousand inhabitants. Near the 
upper part of the city, the canal crosses the river, 
by a splendid aqueduct of red free-stone, eight hun- 
dred and four feet in length, having eleven arches, 
and elevated fourteen feet above the common level 
of the water. While the boat stopped, I went down 
the river to see the great falls. They are about 
eighty rods below where the canal crosses, and are 
ninety-seven feet perpendicular. Here Sam Patch 
made his last leap in the autumn of 1829. In the 
centre of the river, and at the verge of the preci- 
pice over which the water falls, is a ledge of rocks, 
called Table Rock, about six or seven feet in height 
above the water. On this Table Rock, a scaffold 
was erected, about twenty-five feet high, so that 
from the top of the scaffold to the bottom of the 
falls, the perpendicular height was one hundred and 
twenty-five feet. From this giddy height, Sam 
Patch made his " last jump," in the presence of a 
vast multitude of people, who had assembled to wit- 
ness this daring feat, and, as it proved, fatal leap. 
Sam never rose from the boiling flood below ; but 
his body was carried by the current to the mouth of 



24 TEIP TO THE WEST 

the river at the lake, and was there found, the next 
spring. Who will be the biographer of Sam Patch 1 
What a pity it is some phrenologist had not exam- 
ined his head. He must have had a tremendous 
jumping bump, P'or myself, I could not stand on 
the dizzy brink of the river, and look down into the 
awful chasm below, with any tolerable degree of 
composure. These things, however, much depend 
upon practice. A sailor would have thought noth- 
ing of standing on the most projecting rock ; or of 
walking along the highest precipice. 

In 1811, the site of Rochester was a wilderness ; 
now it is a large city. Its great staple of trade is 
flour. It contains eleven flouring mills with fifty- 
three run of stones ; and can grind twelve thousand 
bushels of wheat in twenty-four hours. 

After travelUng from this place sixty-three miles, 
we found ourselves at Lockport, on the mountain 
ridge. At this place, the canal has a double row 
of locks adjacent to each other ; five for ascending, 
and five for descending ; each twelve feet deep, 
making the ascent sixty feet. This is the most ad- 
mirable work of the whole canal. Between the two 
rows of locks, are stone steps, guarded on each side 
by iron railings. In 18-21, there were here but two 
houses; now, it contains four hundred, and is a 
pleasant village. 

Passengers for Niagara Falls, leave the canal here, 
as they are as near them, at this place, as they would 
be at Buffalo. After travelling nineteen miles, the 



A.ND TEXAS. 26 

first three of which, was through a deep cut of Ume- 
stone, from twenty to thirty feet in depth, we came 
in full view of the majestic Niagara river. On the 
margin of this stream, the canal passes by the village 
of Black Rock, to its termination at the city of 
Buffalo. 



CHAPTER II. 

The city of Buffalo is beautifully situated on lake 
Erie, near its outlet ; and possesses the advantages 
of a lake and canal navigation. It is built chiefly 
of brick, containing many elegant buildings, and has 
ten or twelve thousand inhabitants. In the harbor 
lay many vessels, steamboats and canal boats, and it 
exhibited all the show, stir and bustle of a mari- 
time city. From this place, you have a fine view 
of the lake, Canada shore, and the surrounding 
country. I was, at this time, only twenty-three 
miles from the celebrated Falls of Niagara, and I 
could not pass so near without going to view them. 

After spending a day in Buffalo, I took a steam- 
boat down Niagara river, to visit the falls. On the 
Canada side, you have a view of the small village of 
Waterloo, near which, are the ruins of fort Erie, the 
theatre of several severe battles during the late war. 



26 TRIP TO THE WEST 

On the American side, three miles below Buffalo, is 
Black Rock, a pleasant village, having much roman- 
tic scenery around it. Niagara river, above the 
falls, is of various breadths, from a mile and a half, 
to three or four miles. After passing Grand island, 
I beheld the spray arising like a cloud, from the 
falls ; and could hear the roaring of the water. I 
landed from the boat, about two miles above them on 
the American side, and took'a stage. Immediately 
on alighting at the hotel, I walked down to the 
river, and beheld for the first time, the celebrated 
Falls of Niagara. Such a vast body of water, fall- 
ing into so deep a chasm, with a noise like thunder, 
and with such power that it shakes the ground on 
which you stand, strikes one with wonder and 
awe ! One is inclined to stand still, and gaze in 
silence. Other falls and deep chasms I had seen ; 
but this presented itself on such a gigantic scale, 
and so much out of proportion to other objects of 
the kind, that it appeared to my unpractised eye in- 
comprehensible. Other and abler pens have given 
the world many minute descriptions of these falls ; 
and were it otherwise, I have not the vanity to sup- 
pose any description I could give would enable any 
one to form a full and just conception of them. 

Nature has here laid out her work upon a large 
scale, and with a master hand. A mighty river, the 
outpourings of the great lakes above, tumbling ra* 
pidly along for a mile over its rocky bed, here, leaps 
quietly down one hundred and sixty feet into the 



AND TEXAS. 27 

awful chasm below. Above the falls, the banks 
slope gently down to the water's edge ; so that you 
can stand on the brink of the precipice, and put 
your foot into the water where it rolls over it — be- 
low, the bank immediately rises, and forms a chasm 
three hundred feet in depth. Eight or ten rods 
below the falls, is the passage down to the ferry ; 
composed, most of the way, of enclosed wooden 
steps ; and the remainder, of steps made in the 
rocky chff. I went down these steps, crossed over 
in the boat, tossed to and fro by the boiling, raging 
flood ; and liberally sprinkled with the spray of the 
falls. On the Canada side, the bank is not perpen- 
dicular, so that a zigzag road has been made for 
passengers to travel up and down it. On this side, 
is the Table Rock, near the falls ; and here you have 
the best view of them. At this spot a flight of 
steps lead to the bottom ; and from this point a per- 
son can go one hundred and fifty-three feet under 
the sheet of water. Dresses and a guide are fur- 
nished to those who have the curiosity to enter. 

On my return to the American side, I walked over 
the bridge to Bath island, and from that to Goat 
island. This last island contains perhaps twelve 
acres, is covered with a fine growth of wood, has 
a walk near the water, all around it, and benches 
and summer house to rest the weary traveller. It 
divides the falls, and is probably twenty rods wide 
on the cliff, over which the water pitches. At the 
foot of this island, a circular enclosed stairway has 



28 TRIP TO THE WEST 

been built by N. Biddle, Esq. President of the U. S. 
Bank, by which a person can descend down the 
cUff, between the two sheets of water. And here 
it was that Sam Patch leaped one hundred and 
eighteen feet from a platform, made by ladders. 
The trees on the island are covered with names ; 
and the register at the hotel not only contains names, 
but sentiments also. I spent an evening very plea- 
santly in conning them over. 

On the Canada side there are one large hotel and 
some few dwelling houses ; on the American side, 
are two large hotels, and a fine village, called Man- 
chester. After spending two days at the falls, I 
took a seat in the stage for Buffalo. 

New- York, I believe, possesses more of the sub- 
lime and beautiful, than all the remainder of the 
United States. It has its mountains, lakes, springs, 
rivers, water-falls, canals, railroads and edifices. — 
Other States can shew some of these, in a greater 
or less degree ; but as a whole, New-York must 
bear the palm. Its resources are vast — it is a na- 
tion of itself. But notwithstanding its attractive 
scenery and rich lands, the " western fever" rages 
here as violent as on the sterile hills of New-Hamp- 
shire. I found more families from New- York at 
the West and moving thither, than from all the 
New-England States. They, too, seek a better 
country ; and some would undoubtedly be discon- 
tented if they lived in paradise. 



AND TEXAS. 29 

At Detroit, I sav/ a man who said he had just 
made a purchase of a tract of land near Pontiac, 
about thirty miles distant in a northwest direction ► 
He hved near Rochester, had a fine farm, raised 
from five hundred to one thousand bushels of wheat 
a year ; a ready market and the average price one 
dollar a busliel ; clear of debt, and growing rich ; 
but the lands were cheap at the "West, so he sold 
his farm, and was moving into the wilderness ! The 
man was about sixty years of age : so if he has 
good luck, by the time he gets a farm well cleared, 
a good house and improvements, he will be too old 
to enjoy earthly possessions. But just the same 
feeling is manifested in Kentucky, Ohio and Indi- 
ana. And even in Illinois itself, some I found, 
seeking a better country farther west ! 

Persons travelling to Illinois, or farther west, can 
take passage in a vessel or steamboat from Buffalo 
to Chicago. The distance by water is one thousand 
miles ; for they must go through lake Erie, St. 
Clair, Huron and lake Michigan. The distance by 
land is not so far by one half ; but the water passage 
is the cheapest, attended with less hardship, and 
much the best way to convey goods. There are two 
other routes to Chicago. Take a steamboat at Buf- 
falo for Monroe, in Michigan Territory ; and from 
thence, there is a good stage route, through Tecum- 
seh, Niles, Michigan city, and along the south end 
of the lake Michigan to Chicago — or take a steam.- 

3* 



30 TRIP TO THE WEST 

boat to Detroit ; from thence the stage to the mouth 
of St. Joseph, and cross the lake in a schooner to 
Chicago. My object was to see something of Mich- 
igan ; so I took passage in a steamboat for Detroit. 
On board this boat, there were probably two hun- 
dred passengers ; besides a number of horses and 
oxen, wagons, household furniture and baggage. — • 
Most of them were emigrants, chiefly destined to 
some part of Michigan. The cabin passage is eight 
dollars — deck three dollars. Of the whole number 
not more than ten took the cabin passage. We 
stopped at Portland, Erie, Ashtabula, Fairport, 
Cleaveland and Sandusky, and arrived at Detroit in 
two days — distance three hundred and five miles. 

Cleaveland is the most important place on the 
south shore of lake Erie. Tlie Ohio canal here 
enters the lake, so that a person can go down this 
canal into the Ohio river ; and from thence take 
steamboat conveyance to the western States. It is 
quite a large town ; containing five thousand inhabi- 
tants, and has three spacious houses for public wor- 
ship, a seamen's chapel, and two banks. There are 
three newspapers published here, and it shows all 
the stir and bustle of business and trade. This place 
has rapidly increased within a few years : and if it 
continues to improve in the same ratio, it will soon 
take its station alongside of Buffalo and Cincinnati, 
Its inhabitants are very spirited and enterprising. 
They have contributed, as I am informed, fifteen 



._. AND TEXAS. 31 

thousand dollars for the purpose of levelling down 
some of the high bluffs between the village and 
harbor, and grading the streets. 

The flood of emigration, constantly pouring on- 
ward, to the far West, is immense. In the year 
1833, about sixty thousand emigrants left Buifalo, 
to go to the West by water ; and in 1834, not less 
than eighty thousand there embarked, besides those 
who took passage from other ports. No calcula- 
tion can be made, of the number that have passed 
along the south shore of the lake by land ; but, I 
was informed, a gentleman counted two hundred 
and fifty wagons in one day ! 

The western world is all alive. The lakes, the 
streams, the prairies, and forests, are all teeming with 
hfe, and exhibit all the noise and bustle of human 
industry and enterprise. In 1825 there were but 
one steamboat and a few small schooners on lake 
Erie ; now there are thirty steamboats, and one 
hundred and fifty schooners and two large brigs ! 
And the birds and beasts of the forest are continu- 
ally alarmed at the sight of human habitations and 
villages, so suddenly arising, within their own ex- 
clusive haunts and pleasure grounds ! Monroe, in 
Michigan, is pleasantly situated on the river Raisin, 
opposite to French town, and is six miles from its 
mouth. It is forty miles, by water, south of De- 
troit, and is the county seat for Monroe county, has 
a court house, jail, land office, three hotels, twenty- 
si.x stores, and probably two thousand inhabitants. 



32 TRIP TO THE WEST 

It is situated in a fertile district, and has a number 
of mills and distilleries in its vicinity. A beautiful 
large steamboat, called the Monroe, was built here, 
the past season, and made its first trip down tlie 
lake while I was at Buffalo. As this town is nearer 
on a direct line from Buffalo to the West than De- 
troit, it w^ill shortly become the great thoroughfare 
of travel to the western country. 

A new town has recently been laid out, on the 
north bank of the Maumee river. It takes the name 
of the river ; and is situated on a plat of table land 
elevated forty feet above the stream, at the foot of 
the falls, and ten miles from lake Erie. The river 
is deep and navigable for all vessels sailing on the 
lake. The falls are about thirty feet, and afford an 
immense water power — equal to that of Lowell. It 
has now fifty dwelling houses, three stores, one tav- 
ern, a saw and grist mill ; and preparations are mak- 
ing to erect a large number of buildings the ensu- 
ing season, among which are four taverns. Two 
doctors are already settled here ; and a hmb of the 
law was on the track to join them. A glance at 
the map will at once show its favorable location, for 
a large and flourishing town. The Wabash and 
Erie canal, and the Cincinnati, Dayton and Erie 
canal, will both terminate at this place. It is gitua^ 
ted in the disputed territory, claimed by both Ohio 
and Michigan ; but if it should prove to be healthy, 
it will soon take rank with Cleaveland and Detroit. 
It is thirty miles south of Monroe; and about the 



AND TEXAS. 33 

same distance west of Lower Sandusky. A large 
steamboat is now building here, to run on the lake. 

On the opposite side of the river, and about a 
mile above, is the village of Perry sburg, of a hun- 
dred houses and twelve stores ; but as its site is low, 
and on the shoal side of the river, its location is not 
therefore so favorable as that of Maumee. There 
are large tracts of flat land, both to the east and 
west of this place, covered with a heavy growth of 
timber. 

Detroit is on the river, twenty-five miles above 
lake Erie, and seven below lake St. Clair. The river 
is about a mile wide, and the current sets down at 
the rate of from two to three miles an hour. It 
contains about three thousand inhabitants ; many of 
whom are French and some negroes and Indians. 
Much business is done here ; and it will probably 
be one of the most important frontier towns ; as it 
possesses a safe harbor and steamboat navigation to 
Buflfalo, Michilimackinac, Green Bay, Chicago, &c. 
It is well laid out, and has some fine streets and 
buildings. Its public buildings are a court house, 
jail, academy, council house, two banks ; a Presby- 
terian, Episcopalian, Methodist, Baptist and Catho- 
lic churches ; arsenal, magazine and commissary 
store house. 

The streets near the water are dirty, generally 
having mean buildings, rather too many grog shops 
among them, and a good deal too much noise and 
dissipation. The taverns are not generally under 



34 TRIP TO THE WEST 

the best regulations, although they were crowded to 
overflowing. I stopped at the steamboat hotel, and 
I thought enough grog was sold at that bar to satisfy- 
any reasonable demand for the whole village. — 
When the bell rang for dinner, I hardly knew what 
it meant. All in and about the house jumped and 
run as if the house had been on fire ; and I thought 
that to have been the case. I followed the multi- 
tude, and found they were only going into the hall 
to dinner. It was a rough and tumble game at 
knife and fork — and whoever got seated first, and 
obtained the best portion of dinner, was the best 
fellow. Those who came after, must take care of 
themselves the best way they could ; and were not 
always able to obtain a very abundant supply. 

At night, I was obliged to sleep in a small room, 
having three beds in it, take a companion and a 
dirty bed. In travelling, I am always disposed to 
make the best of every thing, and complain of 
nothing if it can be avoided. And in starting on 
this journey, I was aware that I might suffer some 
hardships and inconveniences ; and I had determin- 
ed to bear with patience every thing that was bear- 
able ; but I had not expected to be put to the test 
in the old settled town of Detroit. The house is 
large enough, and servants enough, but there was 
a plentiful lack of decent accommodations, in and 
about it. 

The upper streets make a fine appearance, and are 
pleasant and ornamented with some fine buildings. 



AND TEXAS. 35 

Two steam ferry boats ply constantly between 
this, and a small village called Sandwich, on the 
Canada side of the river. On a pleasant afternoon, 
I crossed the river, and walked three or four miles 
on the pleasant Canada shore. From this position, 
Detroit shows to advantage. 

Detroit has suffered much by disease. Fevers, 
ague and cholera, swept off its hundreds. But it 
is difficult to discover any other cause for the great 
number of deaths, than the filthiness of the place, 
and the dissipation and exposure of many of its 
inhabitants. It needs reform ; and I was informed 
that the subject had arrested the attention of its 
best citizens, and they had commenced the w^ork in 
good earnest. 



CHAPTER III. 

After spending two days at Detroit, I took the 
stage for the mouth of St. Joseph river, on lake 
Michigan — fare f 9,50. The old road leads down 
the river, five or six miles, and then inclines to the 
right into the interior. The first forty miles is a 
level, heavily timbered country ; a deep, clayey soil, 
and a most execrable road. Sometimes the coach 
became fast stuck in the deep sloughs ; and we had 



36 TRIP TO THE WEST 

to get out the best way we could, and help dig it 
out. At others, we found logs laid across the road 
for some distance, and the coach jolted so violently 
over them, that it was impossible to keep our seat. 
We started early in the morning from Detroit, and 
at ten miles stopped at a decent hotel to breakfast. 
It was a framed house, and of sufficient size for a 
common country tavern. 

In this day's travel, we found some good dwell- 
ings, and one brick hotel. Late at night, *' wearied 
and worn," we arrived at Ann Arbor, a flourishing 
Httle village on Huron river, which empties into the 
head of lake Erie, and is a large clear mill stream. 
The tavern house is a large, three story building, 
finished and painted. A long block of buildings for 
stores, a number of mills on the stream, and a few 
other buildings, complete the village. 

In the morning we crossed the river, on a very 
good bridge, and half a mile further, entered the 
upper village of Ann Arbor, much larger than the 
lower one ; having two taverns, a number of stores, 
dwelling houses, and a court house. It is the seat 
of justice for Washtenaw county. Ten miles below 
this, on the Huron river, is situated Upsilanti, a 
pleasant village. The turnpike road from Detroit 
to Chicago passes through it ; on which a stage 
runs, carrying the U. S. mail. 

Soon after leaving this village, we came to the 
'^ oak openings." There are three kinds of land in 
the western country — prairie land, entirely destitute 



AND TEXAS. 37 

of timber, and covered with grass ; oak openings, 
land thinly covered with timber, Hke a northern 
apple orchard ; and the timber land, having a dense 
forest of trees. All these diversities of appearance, 
we found from Detroit to the mouth of the St. Jo- 
seph; although the bur and white oak openings 
seemed to predominate. 

Michigan is a level country ; there are no moun- 
tains in it. It is gently undulating, for the most 
part ; sometimes, too level and wet. It is abun- 
dantly watered and timbered, and a great deal of 
excellent timber. I wish I could say as much of 
the quality of the water. The rivers, little lakes, 
(and there are many of them,) streams, springs, and 
wells, contain clear, pellucid, transparent water. It 
is indeed, too clear to be agreeable to the eye ; but 
it is all impregnated with lime, or iron, or copperas, 
or something disagreeable to the taste ; and is in 
many places, very unhealthy. I do believe there is 
not a drop of pure, soft water, in all Michigan. I 
saw none and could hear of none ; and I made 
much inquiry, examined every river, lake, or spring, 
that I passed, and the result was, I found no pure 
water that would wash with soap, or was pleasant 
to the palate. 

It contains much good land, many pleasant vil- 
lages, fine situations, and is settling fast ; but I can- 
not say that it is, generally, healthy. 

It is probable, earth does not afford more rich 
and beautiful prairies than are found on the route 

4 



38 TRIP TO THE WEST 

from Monroe to Michigan city. And there are fine 
cultivated farms, mills and villages, and scattered 
setdements, all along the southern part of the terri- 
tory. But I did not find the ruddy face and vigo- 
rous step of the East. The meagre and pale visage, 
and shaking frame, spoke a language not to be 
mistaken. 

We passed Jackson, the seat of justice for Jack- 
son county, near Grand river, and Marshall, the 
seat of justice for Calhoun county, on the bank of 
the Kalamazoo river, both flourishing villages. In 
this section of the country, mill seats are plenty, 
and there is an abundant supply of timber. 

At the outlet of Gull lake, I saw a well built 
mill, on as fine a privilege as any one could desire. 
At the lake, there was a dam, which raised the 
water four or five feet, and made an abundant sup- 
ply in the driest season — and fifty rods below where 
the mill was erected, there was a good fall of water. 

Soon after leaving this mill, we came to Gull 
prairie. This was the first prairie of much extent 
that I had seen j and its elegant appearance aflford- 
ed me not a little pleasure. On this prairie there 
is a small village, and a beautiful prospect around it. 

The roads had become so bad, that we left the 
stage coach, after two day's ride, and took a wagon, 
without any spring seats ; and I found it so fatiguing 
to ride, that I often preferred walking. When we 
arrived at this little village, it was late in the even- 
ing, but we had still twelve miles to go that night. 



AND TEXAS. 39 

It was past midnight when we crossed the Kala- 
mazoo river, at the rope ferry, and entered the town 
of Bronson. This is the seat of justice, or as the 
term is liere, county seat, for Kalamazoo county. 
The land ofiice, for the southern part of the terri- 
tory, is also kept here. We found a large tavern 
house and good accommodations, a pleasant village, 
and pleasant people. 

Our route now lay through an undulating, open 
country for twenty miles, when we came to a house 
and mill on Pawpaw river where we "ate our 
breakfast for our dinner." We now crossed the 
stream, and travelled a new road, generally through 
timbered land, passed seven or eight small lakes, 
for twenty-eight miles before we came to a house. 

Here, we found two log houses adjoining each 
other. It had now become night, and at this place 
we were to stay till the next day. I went in, and 
asked the woman, if she could get us something to 
eat. She said, if we would accept of such fare as 
she had, she would try. When we went in to sup- 
per, I never was more agreeably surprised in my 
life. We found a table neatly set; and upon it, 
venison steaks, good warm wheat bread^ good but- 
ter, wild honey in the white comb, and a good cup 
of tea — better fare than we had found in Michigan, 
and as good as could be obtained anywhere. Our 
accommodations at this log house in the woods, 
show what people may do if they choose. And I 
wish some tavern keeepers of our large towns, might 



40 TRIP TO THE WEST 

happen to call there, and learn a lesson which they 
seem too much disinclined to learn at home. Our 
bill was so moderate, we added a dollar to it, and 
hardly thought we had fully paid our hostess then. 

Twelve miles further, brought us to the river St. 
Joseph, about a mile above where it empties into 
the lake. The river here is thirty rods wide. We 
crossed it in a ferry boat, and after ascending a high 
bluff, we came in full view of lake Michigan and 
the St. Joseph village. 

This village is pleasantly situated on a high bluff, 
on the south side of the river, and facing the lake ; 
and contains sixty or seventy houses, two taverns, 
some half dozen stores, two large warehouses, and 
a light house. One tavern, the stores, and a few 
dwelling houses, are built underneath the bluff, on 
the bank of the river. A steamboat plies between 
this place and Niles, fifty miles up the river, as it 
runs, but only twenty-five miles by land. Just above 
the village, is a steam saw mill, Vv^hich does a good 
deal of business. This place carries on considerable 
trade with the interior ; the staple of which is 
wheat. 

St. Joseph is very unhealthy. At the tavern, I 
found three persons sick, and one dangerously so. 
I called upon the doctor, and he was sick abed ; I 
called upon the baker, and he was sick abed — and 
I passed by another house, where the whole family, 
consisting of a man, his wife, and five children, 
were all sick abed, and so completely helpless, that 



AND TEXAS. 41 

the neighbors had to take care of them ! This is no 
fiction. The man's name is Emerson ; from the 
State of New- York. Last spring he came on to 
this part of the country with his family and goods 
in a wagon. And when he came to Pawpaw river, 
where we breakfasted, he found no road direct to 
St. Joseph. He accordingly cut out the road that 
we had travelled to this place, and was the first who 
came through with a wagon, a distance of about 
fifty miles. Soon after his arrival, his eldest son, a 
promising youth of fifteen, accidentally was drown- 
ed in the river. The family, one by one, were taken 
sick ; and now, all were sick and helpless. The 
man possessed great vigor of mind and body ; had 
bought him a farm at some distance from the village 
on the road he had made, and commenced some 
improvements, and made great efforts to persevere 
and clear it up. But who can withstand the iron 
grasp of disease, or the " bold demands of death 1" 
He beheld his family wasting away and to all ap- 
pearance, hastening to the grave ; and himself, as 
sick and helpless as they. A sad catastrophe this, 
in his prospect of wealth and bliss in the new world ! 
A schooner, called the Philip, plies regularly be- 
tween this, and Chicago across the lake ; but I had 
to wait here three days before its return. I spent 
the time in traversing the woods and the lake shore. 
This lake is a clear, beautiful sheet of water, hav- 
ing a soft sandy shore, and surrounded by high 
sandy hills. The river makes a good harbor, but 

4* 



42 TRIP TO THE WEST 

there is a sand bar at its mouth, on which there is 
not more than five or six feet of water. The ave- 
rage width of the lake is sixty miles. 

The distance from Detroit to St. Joseph is two 
hundred miles, and we had been five days and a 
half in travelling it. The road was as good as could 
be expected in a country so new, and so thinly in- 
habited. The land generally is good, and will sup- 
port a dense population. The southern part of the 
territory is thought to contain the best land, and 
there are indeed some beautiful prairies. Prairie 
Round is among the most beautiful. It contains a 
number of thousand acres of high, level, and smooth 
land ; and in the centre there are a hundred acres 
of higher land, covered with a beautiful growth of 
trees. 

The best part of Indiana is on the border of Mich- 
igan, and extending south, on the Wabash river. 
The southern part of the State contains a good 
deal of hilly, rocky and sandy land, unfit for cul- 
tivation. 

A territorial road has been laid out from Detroit 
to St. Joseph ; and a survey of a railroad has been 
made, nearly on the line of the road, between the 
two places ; but sometime will elapse, before either 
are completed. 

Wild game is plenty ; deer, ducks, bears, wolves 
and squirrels are in sufficient quantity to keep the 
hunter awake. 



AND TEXAS. 43 

Upon the whole, if good water and good health 
could be found, Michigan would be a very desirable 
country in which to reside. 

As soon as the vessel was ready to depart, I took 
passage in her. We sailed round the south end of 
the lake, and stopped at Michigan city, a village of 
twenty or thirty houses, and twelve stores, situated 
on the corner of Indiana, among the sand hills of 
the lake. A small stream here empties into the 
lake but affords no harbor for vessels. Some enter- 
prising citizens have determined to make it a large 
town ; but nature does not seem much to have 
seconded their efforts. It is forty miles from St. 
Joseph, and just the same distance from Chicago. 
The stage road, from Michigan city to Chicago, is, 
most of the way, on the sandy beach. 



CHAPTER IV. 

Chicago makes a fine appearance when viewed 
from the water. It has a light house, fort and bar- 
racks in which a garrison is kept, and many elegant 
buildings. It is regularly laid out, on the south 
side of Chicago river ; the streets running parallel 
with it, and others crossing them at right angles. 
The harbor being too much exposed, a breakwater 



44 TRIP TO THE WEST 

is building, so as to render it secure and safe for the 
shipping. The town is already compactly built, for 
more than a mile in length, and about half that dis- 
tance in width ; and there are a dozen houses on 
the north side of the river, with which it is connect- 
ed by an elegant bridge. It has thirty-six stores, 
some of which are large and elegant, and built of 
brick ; and seven large taverns, filled with guests to 
overflowing. It is now, about the size of Exeter, 
in New-Hampshire, and is rapidly increasing. Ves- 
sels and steamboats come here from Buffalo, laden 
with goods and merchandize ; and it is the great 
thoroughfare for travel to the western country. The 
trade of all the upper country centres here ; and 
when the canal is completed, connecting the lake 
with the waters of the Illinois river, it must become 
the largest town in the State. It is built on a level 
prairie, open in full view to the lake, and the soil 
is enough mixed with sand to prevent its being very 
muddy. The lake supplies the town with good, 
wholesome water, and as far as I could judge, it is 
quite healthy. 

While I was at Chicago, the Pottawattomie tribe 
of Indians, came there to receive their annuity from 
the United States government. I could not accu- 
rately ascertain their number, but probably, there 
were between one and two thousand, men, women 
and children. I had before seen the small remnants 
of Indian tribes at the north ; but never had I seen 
such a large body of western Indians assembled to- 



AND TEXAS. 45 

gether. I had much curiosity to see them, and 
learn something of the Indian character. In this I 
was fully gratified. 

Those who have formed high notions of the 
stateliness and chivalry of the Indian character, 
might gain some new ideas, by witnessing, day after 
day, the actions and movements of the Pottawat- 
tomies. It is painful to state it, but truth compels 
me to say, their appearance was, with but few ex- 
ceptions, that of a drunken set of miserable vaga- 
bonds. They were generally mounted on horseback, 
men, women and children ; some had small bells for 
their horses — some had blankets on, and others had 
coats and pantaloons, similar to the whites ; and 
many of them, had jewels in the nose and ears, 
and the face painted in various colors and forms, 
so as to give them either a ludicrous, or a terrific 
appearance. 

To all this, perhaps, no one has a right seriously 
to object. It is merely a matter of taste ; and if 
they choose to exhibit themselves in the various 
hues of the rainbow, or in the terrific aspect of a 
warrior, I am wiUing they should be gratified. But 
their actions were beneath the dignity of man, or of 
beast. They encamped near the town, on the bor- 
der of the lake ; and above it, on the margin of the 
river. I walked all through their encampment, and 
saw them frequently in the streets. I found them, 
generally, bickering, quarrelling, or fighting ; or 
running their horses through the town, and display- 



46 TRIP TO THE WEST 

ing all the antics of madmen. Day after day, and 
night after night, they were carousing, shouting and 
fighting. On tiic lake shore, one of them killed 
his wife, by splitting her head open with a hatchet, 
and then fled ! I did not learn what became of him. 

They are also much addicted to theft. Too lazy 
to work, they had rather steal whatever they desire, 
that comes in their w^ay ; and this propensity and 
practice has been a fruitful source of the border 
wars, between the whites and Indians. 

I have seen hundreds of negroes together on 
their holidays ; when they had free access to intox- 
icating liquor if they chose ; when they gave them- 
selves up to pastime and pleasure ; and I do say, 
they appeared much more civil and decent to them- 
selves and to others, than the Indians. They did 
not seem, like the Indians, to lose all self respect. 
The negroes generally appear to possess amiable 
dispositions ; and are faithful friends ; are much 
more pliant and teachable ; and if I must dwell with 
either negroes or Indians, give me the negroes. 

If the former mode of paying the government 
annuity to the chief of a tribe, were objectionable, 
the present mode of paying each individual, seems 
to me to be equally, if not more objectionable. I 
was informed that the gross sum of seventy thou- 
sand dollars was paid to them individually ; each 
one an equal portion of that amount. But after 
spending a few days in carousing at Chicago, they 



AND TEXAS. 47 

left the town as they will finally leave the world — 
carrying nothing with them ! 

It appears to me, some different regulations, re- 
specting the Indians, ought to be adopted. The 
money now paid them, upon the whole, seems to 
do them more hurt than good. Might not the go- 
vernment pay them in specific articles, instead of 
money, such as blankets, clothing, implements of 
husbandry, &-c. There would not be then quite 
so much inducement for speculators to prey upon 
them. 

As to civilization, I am not so sanguine as some 
are, that it can be done. The Indians seem to be 
naturally averse to the restraints and labor of civil- 
ized life. To beg or steal is much more agreeable to 
them, than to labor for subsistence. Any thing 
that looks like work, they despise. In all cases, 
where they have come in contact with the whites, 
it has been death to the Indian. At the approach 
of civilization, they wither away and die ; and the 
remnants of tribes must flee away to the fastnesses 
of the wilderness, or perish in the withering grasp 
of civilized man. They are to be pitied ; but their 
unprovoked murders and savage cruelties have steel- 
ed the heart against them. Their cold-blooded 
murders, in the late war in Illinois, of men, women 
and children, and their indecent mutilation and ex- 
posure of their bodies when dead, cannot soon be 
forgotten or forgiven. Black Hawk, the cold-blood- 
ed instigator and leader in this war, dared not re- 



48 TRIP TO THE WEST 

turn from his trip to the East through Chicago, and 
the theatre of his cruelties. He probably will never 
again set his foot on the eastern shore of the Mis- 
sissippi. 

The country back of Chicago, for the distance 
of twelve miles, is a smooth, level prairie ; produ- 
cing an abundance of grass, but too low and wet 
for cultivation. The Chicago river is formed by two 
branches, which meet at the upper end of the vil- 
lage. The branches come from exactly opposite 
directions, and after running some distance, parallel 
with the lake, and about a mile from it, here meet 
each other, and turning at right angles, flow in a 
regular straight channel, like a canal, into the lake. 
On each side of the town, between these branches 
and the lake shore, there is, for some distance, a 
good growth of wood and timber. On the lake 
shore, there are naked sand hills ; and these are 
found all around the lake. 

This world has undergone great changes since its 
original creation. In examining the western coun- 
try, I came to the conclusion, that a large portion 
of it was once under water ; and that the lakes for- 
merly discharged their waters into the sea, through 
the IlHnois and Mississippi rivers. 

The lakes Michigan, Huron, St. Clair and Erie, 
are now about twenty-five feet lower than lake Su- 
perior. The falls of St. Mary, at the outlet of the 
upper lake, are nothing more than rapids. The 
water descends twenty-two feet in the distance of 



AND TEXAS. 49 

three quarters of a mile ; and although canoes can 
pass them either way, yet they are impassable to 
steamboats and vessels. Some years ago, a large 
vessel did go down them in safety. It was built on 
lake Superior, by the north-western Fur Company, 
but was found to be too large to be useful in their 
trade. It was taken to the falls of St. Mary, and 
some Indians were hired to take it down the rapids. 
They happened to go down in safety ; and the ves- 
sel was afterwards sold at Buffalo. Now, the pro- 
bability is, that these lower lakes were once nearly 
on a level with lake Superior ; and their outlet was 
at the south end of lake Michigan, instead of the 
Niagara river. 

Eight or ten miles from the present limits of lake 
Erie, there is a regular, well defined shore, once 
washed by the water; plainly indicating that the 
lake was once about twenty feet higher than it now 
is. If lake Michigan were ten feet higher than its 
present level, its waters would flow into the Illinois 
river. The Oplane, a branch of the Ilhnois, ap- 
proaches within twelve miles of the lake ; and the 
land between is low and level. When the water is 
high, boats now pass from the lake to the river. At 
a time of high water, a steamboat attempted to pass 
from the Illinois to the lake. After running a day 
from Ottawa up the river, the water began to sub- 
side, the captain became alarmed, lest his boat might 
run aground, and returned. 



50 TRIP TO THE WEST 

The valley of the Illinois river, plainly indicates 
that a much larger stream once run there. Had its 
channel been formed by its present quantity of wa- 
ter, it would have been not more than forty rods 
wide ; but now, it carries a breadth of from fifty 
rods to more than a mile ; it is, therefore, full of 
shoals and sand bars. The high banks all along 
down the stream, are about two miles apart ; and 
the space between them not occupied by the river, 
is either a low marsh or a narrow lake. 

When the lakes were high, aided probably by a 
strong west wind, the water broke through in the 
direction of Niagara river ; and in process of time, 
wore a deep channel, drained the lakes to their pre- 
sent level, and dried up their outlet, at the south 
end of lake Michigan. This is my theory ; and 
whoever will examine the country around the lakes, 
may not deem it so wild and extravagant a one, as 
has been advanced and behoved by mankind. 

Many of the inhabitants of Chicago are from the 
eastern part of the country — civil, enterprising and 
active. I found good society here — much better 
than I had expected in a place so new, and of such 
rapid growth. 

House rent is high, and provisions are dear. Last 
spring, potatoes were sold for a dollar and a half a 
bushel ; and this fall the current price is a dollar. 
All this is owing to the rapid increase of the place, 
and the immense travel through it. When more 



AND TEXAS. 



51 



houses are built, and the country back of it be- 
comes settled, hving will, undoubtedly, be cheap. 
To the man of enterprise and business, it affords as 
good a location as any in the western country. 



CHAPTER V. 

At Chicago I found three young men from New- 
England, who were travelling to see the western 
country. We hired two horses and a wagon, at 
seventy-five cents a day, and started together into 
the interior of Illinois, west of Chicago. 

It was past the middle of October ; the air was 
mild and clear, and the earth dry. The prairie, 
which in the spring of the year is so wet and muddy 
as to be difficult to pass, we found dry, and a good 
smooth road over it ; so we travelled merrily on. 
At the distance of twelve miles the ground became 
elevated a few feet, and we found a fine grove of 
timber, a few log houses, and the Oplane river. At 
this place the roads fork — one goes south, to Ottawa 
on the Illinois river — the other goes in a westerly 
direction, to Galena on the Mississippi. Stages run 
from Chicago, over each of these roads to both 
places, carrying the U. S. mail. 



ox TRIP TO THE WEST 

The roads In this country are in a state of na- 
ture. But the ground is so smooth, and so entire- 
ly free from stones, that when the earth is dry, you 
do not find better roads at the north. Indeed, you 
can travel in a carriage over most part of the coun- 
try, woods and all. 

We took the Galena road, forded the river, a 
stream about four rods wide, and passed on, over a 
beautiful, open, prairie country, here and there a log 
house, a small grove of timber, or small stream of 
water ; the land high, dry and rich, and arrived at 
night at Naper's settlement, on the Du Page river, 
thirty-seven miles from Chicago. Naper was the 
first settler here. He keeps a public house, very 
decent accommodations ; has a store and mills, and 
is forming a village around him. Here is a large. 
grove of good timber. 

We now left the Galena road and took a course 
more northerly to the big and little woods, on Fox 
river. In travelling twelve miles we came to the 
settlement at the lower end of " little woods." In 
the space of three miles, we found about twenty 
families, all in comfortable log houses ; fields fenced 
and cultivated ; a school house erecting, and a mas- 
ter hired to keep two months. And among the 
whole number only one family had been there two 
years ; the remainder had none of them been there 
quite a year. The houses were built near the tim- 
ber, and a beautiful rich prairie opened before 
them. 



AND TEXAS. 53 

The man who had been here two years, had a 
hundred acres under fence ; raised a large crop of 
corn and wheat, and had sold at Chicago, only thirty 
miles distant in a straight line, two hundred and 
twenty bushels of potatoes for as many dollars. He 
had built a wear across the river to catch fish, which 
I walked down to see. He took his boat, went 
out to the pen, and dipped out with a small net 
half a boat load of fish. 

This is a land of plenty sure enough ; and if a 
man cannot here find the luxuries of the city, he 
can obtain all the necessaries of life in abundance. 

Fox river is a clear stream of water, about twenty 
rods wide, having a hard limestone bottom, from 
two to three feet deep, a brisk current, and gener- 
ally fordable. On its banks, and on some other 
streams, we occasionally found ledges of limestone ; 
but other than that, we found no rocks in the 
State. 

We here forded the river, and travelled all day 
on its western bank. We found less timber on this 
side of the river. On the east side, it is generally 
lined with timber to the depth of a mile or more ; 
but the west side is scarcely skirted with it. It is 
somewhat singular and unaccountable, but we found 
it universally to be the fact, that the east side of all 
the streams had much the largest portion of timber. 

We passed a number of log houses, all of which 
had been built the present season, and came at last 
to the upper house on the river. The man told us, 

5* 



54 TRIP TO THE WEST 

he had been here with his family only three days. — 
In attempting to get at the head of population, we 
more than once thought of the story of the Ohio 
pumpkin vine; and concluded if we accomplished 
it, we should be obliged to run our horses. He 
said, in the morning, his was the upper house on the 
river ; but a man had made a location above him, 
and perhaps had already built him a house. 

We went a few miles above this, forded the river, 
passed through the woods into the open prairie, and 
started down the east side. We travelled on, until 
it became dark. We were in an open prairie, with- 
out any road, a cloudy night, and had no means of 
directing our course. It was a great oversight, but 
we had no fire works with us, and the wolves began 
to howl around at a distance. We concluded, we 
should be obliged to stay out that night, and with- 
out any fire. A man accustomed to the new coun- 
try, would probably have thought nothing of it ; but 
to me, who had never lodged out doors in my life, 
to be obliged to camp out in a new country, and 
among the wolves, and such other wild animals as 
chose to come along, it was not quite so pleasant. I 
confess I began to have some misgivings in my own 
mind, whether this new world ought, in fact, to be 
called a paradise. 

We knew that if there were any houses in that 
region, they would be near the woods ; we accord- 
ingly obhqued to the right, and after some time tra- 
velling saw a light, which led us to a house. 



AND TEXAS. 55 

These log houses generally have one large room, 
in which the family cook, eat and lodge ; and if any 
strangers come, they lodge in the same room with 
the family, either in a bed or on the floor, as may be 
the most convenient. They are built of logs lock- 
ed together at the corners ; the interstices filled with 
timber split like rails, and plastered over with clay. 
The roofs are covered with shingles about four feet 
Jong; the chimneys are built on the outside, with 
wood, and lined with clay ; and the floor is made of 
split timber. Many of them are quite neat and 
warm. 

The next day, we passed a few miles down the 
river, crossed it, and travelled twenty or thirty miles 
west, towards Rock river. Our whole course lay 
through an open prairie. We could see timber on 
either hand. This day we found a number of gravel 
hills, the tops of which were coarse, naked gravel, 
and looked white at a distance. They were from 
ten to twenty feet high. We walked up to the top 
of the highest one, and had an extended view of the 
surrounding country. From this elevation, we could 
see the timber on the border of Rock river. 

We obliqued more to the south, came to a grove 
of timber and a house. Here we stayed that night. 
The next day we took a southeasterly direction, 
passed one house, and came to Fox river, where the 
Galena road crosses it. We forded the river, and 
travelling over an open rolling prairie twenty miles 
in a southeasterly direction, came to Walker's grove, 



56 TRIP TO THE WEST 

on the Du Page river, forty miles south of Chicago. 
Here we found a tavern, saw and grist mill, and 
something of a village, having two or three framed 
houses among the log huts. 

The U. S. mail stage passes from Chicago through 
this place, Ottawa, Peoria and Springfield to St. 
Louis ; and agreeably to our previous arrangement, 
I here left my companions,- who returned to Chica- 
go ; and I took the stage for the south. I had tra- 
velled with them just long enough to be fully sensi- 
ble of the great loss I sustained at parting. Thus 
it is with the traveller. He forms acquaintances 
and finds friends ; but it is only to part with them, 
probably forever. 

Before I go into the lower part of the State, I 
shall stop here, and say a few words of the appear- 
ance, present condition and future prospects of the 
northern part of Illinois. I feel in some degree 
qualified to do this, not only from my own observa- 
tion, but from information obtained from intelligent 
and respectable sources. 



AND TEXAS. 57 



CHAPTER VI. 

The northern part of lilhiois is beautifully diver- 
sified with groves of timber and rolling prairies. 
The timber consists of the various kinds of oak, 
rock and white maple, beach, locust, walnut, mul- 
berry, plum, elm, bass wood, buckeye, hackberry, 
sycamore, spice wood, sassafras, haws, crab apple, 
cherry, cucumber, pawpaw, &c. There is some 
cedar, but little pine. The shores of Michigan have 
a large supply of pine timber, and from this source 
the lumber for buildings at Chicago is obtained. 

The prairies are sometimes level, sometimes gently 
undulating, and sometimes hilly ; but no where 
mountainous. The soil is three or four feet deep ; 
then you come to a bed of clay two or three feet in 
depth, and then gravel. The soil is a rich, black 
loam ; and when wet, it sticks to the feet hke clay. 
Manure has no beneficial effect upon it ; but where 
it has been cultivated, it produces an abundant crop, 
the first year, not quite as good as succeeding years ; 
and it seems to be quite inexhaustible. 

The prairies are covered with a luxuriant growth 
of native grass, which, when it gets its full growth 
is generally about as high as a man's shoulders. — 
They are destitute of trees, shrubs, or stones ; and 
although the surface may be undulating, yet it is so 
smooth, that they can be mown as well as the 
smoothest old field in New-England. In the spring 



58 TRIP TO THE WEST 

of the year, a great variety of beautiful flowers 
shoot up among the grass ; so that the face of na- 
ture exhibits the appearance of an extended flower 
garden. The prairie grass is unhke any kind I have 
seen at the north ; but it affords excellent fodder 
for horses, neat cattle and sheep. A finer grazing 
country I had never seen. The grass appears to 
have more nourishment in it, than at the north. I 
saw beef cattle, fatted on the prairie grass alone, 
and I challenge Brighton to produce fatter beef, or 
finer flavored. 

Towards the lake, the land is gently undulating ; 
farther west, on Fox and Rock rivers, it is rolling ; 
and as you approach Galena on the Mississippi, it 
becomes more hilly and broken. All this country 
seems to lack, is timber and water. There are 
rivers enough, but not many small streams and 
springs. But both of these defects can in a good 
measure be remedied. Good water can be obtained 
almost any where by digging wells from twenty to 
thirty feet in depth ; and fuel must be supplied by 
the coal, which is found generally in abundance 
throughout the State. Bricks can be used for 
building ; and hedge rows for fences. 

The coal is excellent for the grate. It burns 
free, and emits such a briUiant light, that any other 
in a room is hardly necessary. It is now used in 
many places, in preference to wood, although that 
is now plenty. Blacksmiths use it for the forge ; 



AND TEXAS. 59 

and at one shop, the man told me he could dig and 
haul enough in half a day to last him a month. 

The government of the United States granted to 
the State of Illinois a tract of land ten miles in 
width and eighty miles in length, extending from 
Chicago to Ottawa, for the purpose of making a ca- 
nal to connect the waters of the lake with the Illi- 
nois river, and within these limits, it is supposed the 
canal will pass. This tract has been surveyed, put 
into market and much of it sold ; but most of the 
land in the northern part of the State had not even 
been surveyed when I was there. Not a survey had 
been made on Fox river. The settlers took as much 
land as they pleased, and where they pleased ; and 
as there was an abundance for all, none found fault. 
Before this time, I presume, the land has been sur- 
veyed ; and the peace and quietness of the Fox 
river settlement, may have been a little disturbed by 
the carelessness of the United States' surveyors, in 
running lines somewhat diverging from the stakes 
and fences which its early settlers had set up as the 
bounds of their farms. 

But a large portion of the northern half of the 
State, is not in the market, and perhaps may not be 
for two years to come. This very land, however, 
is settling every day. All a man has to do, is to 
select his land and settle down upon it. By this act 
he gains a pre-emption right to one hundred and 
sixty acres ; and before the auction sale, enters his 
land at the land office, pays a dollar and a quarter 



60 TRIP TO THE WEST 

an acre, and receives his title. When land has 
once been through the auction and not sold, it can 
be taken at any time, by paying a dollar and a quar- 
ter an acre, and receive a title. 

Upon the whole, I think the upper part of Illinois 
offers the greatest inducements to the emigrant, es- 
pecially from the northern States. It is a high, 
healthy, beautiful country ; and there are now plenty 
of good locations to be made. A young man, with 
nothing but his hands to work, may in a few years 
obtain a competency. The whole country produces 
great crops of wheat, corn and potatoes, and all the 
fruits and vegetables cf the north. Apple and peach 
trees grow faster and more vigorous here than at the 
east ; and there is a native plum tree, which bears 
excellent fruit. 

I took much pains to ascertain whether it was 
subject to the fever and ague ; and from the inqui- 
ries I made, and the healthy appearance of the peo- 
ple, I am persuaded it is not. I found only one 
person sick with that disease, in all the upper coun- 
try, and she was an old woman from Indiana ; and 
she told me she had it before she left that State.— 
There is plenty of game — the prairie hen, about the 
size of the northern hen, deer, ducks, wild turkies, 
and squirrels ; also an abundance of wild honey. 

There is another reason why the northern part of 
the State is preferable. Chicago of itself is, and 
will be, something of a market for produce ; but it 
is the best spot in the whole State, to carry produce 



AND TEXAS. 61 

to be transported to a northern market. From this, 
it is carried all the way by water to New-York city ; 
and the distance is no greater than from the middle 
and lower parts of the State to New-Orleans, and 
the expense of transportation the same. 

But after all. there is no such place as a perfect 
elysium on earth ; and to this bright picture of the 
new world, there must be added some slight shades. 
In the first place there are many prairie wolves all 
over the country, so that it is almost impossible to 
keep sheep. In travelling over the country, I have 
started half a dozen in ar day ; they did not appear 
to be very wild ; but they seldom or never attack a 
man, unless retreat is cut off, or sorely pressed by 
hunger. They are of a brown color, and of the 
size of a large dog. The men have a good deal of 
sport in running them down, and killing them. — > 
They take a stick, mount a fleet horse, soon come 
up with them, and knock them on the head. 

A man on Fox river told me he made a wolf pen 
over a cow that got accidentally killed, and caught 
twelve wolves in one week ! As the country be- 
comes settled they will disappear. There are but 
few bears ; the country is too open for them. I had 
one or two meals of bear meat, but it is not at all 
to my taste. Then, there are the prairie rattlesnakes, 
about a foot long. Their bite is not considered very 
dangerous. There is a vveed, growing universally 
on the prairie, that is a certain cure for it. They 



62 TRIP TO THE WEST 

are not, however, plenty. Men told me, that they 
had passed a whole year without seeing one. 

Then, to prey upon the fields of the husbandman, 
there are the blackbirds and squirrels. They are 
the same in kind with those of the north, and their 
rapacity seems to have lost nothing, by living at the 
west. The blackbird is not a bird of the forest ; it 
only follows close upon the heels of population. 

The winters are as cold, perhaps, as at the north, 
but of shorter duration. They commence later and 
end earlier. The Indians make their poneys get 
their living in the winter ; and cattle will live if they 
can have a range in the woods ; but the farmer can 
have as much hay as he chooses, only for the cut- 
ting ; the good husbandman will, therefore, have 
enough to keep his cattle in good heart during the 
winter. 

Men are apt to judge of a new country by the 
impulse of feeling. The enthusiastic admirer of 
nature, when he beholds the extended prairies, lofty 
groves and pellucid streams, represents it as a perfect 
paradise. But those who think more of good roads, 
good coaches, good houses and good eating, than 
they do of the beauties of nature, curse the whole 
country and quit it in disgust. But to prevent all 
mistakes, be it known to all whom it may concern, 
that in this new country, fields do not grow ready 
fenced and planted, and elegant houses beside them ; 
pancakes are not found on trees, or roasted pigs, 
running about squealing to be eaten. 



AND TEXAS. 63 

The jaundiced eye sees nothing in its true hght. 

" The dlfTrence is as great between 



" The optics seeing, as the object seen ; 
<' Or fancy's beam enlarges, multiplies, 
" Contracts, inverts, and gives a thoueand dyes." 

Many anecdotes were told me, of the different 
views the same individual would have of the same 
place, under different circumstances. An emigrant 
from Vermont, with his wife, children and goods, 
started for the western world in a wagon. The 
country was new, and the roads so bad that their 
progress was slow and fatiguing. At length, after 
enduring many privations and hardships in a jour- 
ney of twelve hundred miles, they safely arrived in 
Illinois, and located themselves on a fine, rich spot 
of ground, in the interior. He hastily threw up a 
temporary hut for their present accommodation ; but 
they w^ere all too much wearied and worn, vigorous- 
ly to exert themselves. He became sad himself; his 
wife, unable to restrain her feelings, began to sob 
aloud, and the children joined the concert. They 
could not divert their thoughts from the home, 
neighbors and friends they had left. The prairie 
and wdld wood had no charms for them. After 
three or four days of despondency, they picked up 
their goods, loaded their wagon, and trudged all the 
way back again to Vermont. Vermont had, how- 
ever, lost some of its charms. It did not appear 
quite so fine as they had expected. After spend- 
ing another cold winter there, they began to think 



64 TRIP TO THE WEST 

Illinois, upon the whole, was the better place ; and 
that they Iiad been very foolish in leaving it. So, 
they picked up their duds again, returned to the 
same spot they had left, and were satisfied, conten- 
ted and happy. The man has now an excellent 
farm, good house, and an abundance of the neces- 
saries and conveniences of hfe. In short, he is an 
independent farmer, and would not now, upon any 
consideration, return to Vermont. 

An instance, in some respects similar to this, oc- 
curred some years ago, in an emigrant from the 
western part of the State of New-Hampshire. — 
He sold his farm, and started for Ohio. His wife 
and children, and a portion of his furniture, he put 
into a large wagon, drawn by three or four yoke of 
oxen ; and three cows of a peculiar breed, he also 
took with him. They proceeded on about five hun- 
dred miles, probably as far as Buffalo, when they all 
became weary, and so excessively fatigued with their 
journey, that they lost all relish for the western 
country, and wished themselves back again. At this 
time, they held a council, and agreed, without a dis- 
senting voice, to return to New-Hampshire. They 
accordingly wheeled about, cows and all, and trudg- 
ed back to the town they had left ; having perform- 
ed a journey of a thousand miles with an ox-team, 
at great expense, and apparently to no beneficial 
purpose whatever. He did not, however, like the 
Vermonter, again return. 



AND TEXAS. 65 

But the result of the trip was not so disastrous 
as had been anticipated. At the very time of their 
return, a much better farm than the one he had left 
was offered for sale for ready money. He bought 
it at a reduced price, and immediately settled upon 
it. He then made a calculation upon his present 
and former condition ; and after taking into consid- 
eration the expenses of his journey, the sale of one 
farm and purchase of anodier, he found himself 
worth at least a thousand dollars more than he was 
previous to the transaction ! 

And here, I would give a caution to the emigrant 
who intends to settle in the western country, not to 
place implicit confidence in what the inhabitants of 
one section may say of other portions of it. If they 
mean to be honest in giving an opinion, self-interest 
as in other places, strangely warps their judgment. 
Land holders and actual settlers are anxious to build 
up their own village and neighborhood ; and there- 
fore, they praise their own section and decry the 
others. At Detroit, we are told that Monroe is a 
very sickly place ; at Monroe, Detroit is unhealthy ; 
and both will concur that Chicago is too unhealthy 
for an emigrant to think of enjoying life in it. In 
Michigan, that is the most healthy, pleasant and 
best portion of the West ; in Illinois, that becomes 
the promised land. Indeed, so contradictory are 
their statements, that little reliance ought to be 
placed upon them ; and the better way for the emi- 
grant is, if he cannot obtain the necessary informa- 



66 TRIP TO THE WEST 

tion from disinterested travellers, to go and examine 
for himself. Eastern people, who travel no farther 
than Michigan, generally form an unfavorable opin- 
ion of Chicago and Illinois ; but were they to travel 
over that State, they would soon change their opin- 
ion. 



CHAPTER Vn. 

But I have dwelt long enough on the upper 
country. I took the stage and travelled twenty- 
five miles over an open prairie, passing only one 
house, and arrived at night at Holderman's grove. 
This is a pleasant grove of excellent timber, having 
by its side a number of good houses and large cul- 
tivated fields. 

The next morning, we rode fifteen miles to Ot- 
tawa, where we breakfasted. Here the Illinois and 
Fox rivers join, and appear to be nearly of equal 
size, both about twenty rods wide. The village is 
on the east side of the Illinois river, which we cross- 
ed in a ferry boat. A tavern, some houses and 
stores are built on a small flat under the hill, and a 
number of houses on a bluff, two hundred feet 
above the river. Steamboats come up as high as 
this place, unless the water be quite low. If it be 



AND TEXAS. 67 

not a sickly place, I am much mistaken. The fever 
and ague seems to be the prevailing disease. I have 
observed that situations on the western rivers are 
generally unhealthy. 

The river diverges to the west, and the road 
down the country immediately leaves it. In travel- 
ling twenty-five miles, I found myself fourteen from 
the river. Here, I left the stage, and went to Hen- 
nipen, a small village on the Illinois river. It is 
regularly laid out on a high, level prairie, which ex- 
tends three miles back, and consists of two taverns, 
four stores, a dozen dwelling houses and a court 
house — it being the seat of justice for Putnam 
county. I found a number of people sick in this 
place with the fever and ague. 

Here I crossed the river, about fifty rods wide, in 
a ferry boat, and found on the other side about two 
miles of heavy timbered bottom land, subject to 
overflow. From this, I ascended a high bluff, pass- 
ed three or four miles of oak openings, and then 
came into the open prairie. 

Ten miles from the river, a new town, called 
Princeton, is laid out in the prairie, on the stage road 
leading from Peoria to Galena. Three buildings, 
one of which is^ store where the post office is 
kept, had been erected when I was there ; but as it 
is in a healthy situation, and surrounded by a beau- 
tiful rich country, it may in time become a large 
village. 



08 TRIP TO THE WEST 

I travelled some distance in a northerly direction^ 
between great and little Bureau rivers. The larger 
stream has a number of mills upon it. The country 
around here, is too similar to the upper part of the 
State to need a particular description. High rolling 
prairies, skirted with timber, every where abound in 
this region, and present to the eye a most beautiful 
landscape. It is mostly settled by people from 
New-England ; and they appeared healthy, content- 
ed and happy — and are in fact, becoming rich and 
independent farmers. 

One northern man I called upon, whose past and 
present condition may be similar to many others. I 
will state it for the edification of those who live on 
the rocky soil of New-England. While at the 
north, he hved on a hilly and rocky farm ; had a 
large family, and was obliged to work hard and use 
the strictest econom.y, to support them, and meet 
the current expenses of the year. Tired of severe 
labor and small gains, he sold hi^^ farm and moved 
to the State of Illinois. He had been here two 
years ; has now one hundred acres under fence ; 
raised the present season fifteen hundred bushels of 
eorn, three hundred of wheat ; has seventy head of 
neat cattle and sixty hogs. He has a fine timber lot 
near his house, in which is an abundance of the 
sugar maple. He had killed, the present season, 
four beef cattle, the last one just before I called 
upon him ; and fatter and better flavored beef I 
never saw. All the cattle grow exceedingly fat on 



AND TEXAS. 69 

the prairie grass ; so much so that corn will add 
nothing to it. A saw and grist mill are within seven 
miles of him. He was getting out timber, and in- 
tended to put up a two story house in the spring. I 
enquired particularly as to the health of his family 
and neighborhood. He informed me it had been 
very healthy ; his own family had not any of them 
been sick abed a day, since they came into the 
country. Two of his daughters are well married, 
and settled on farms near him. Let every farmer at 
the north, who has to tug and toil on the sterile and 
rocky soil of New-England, to support his family, 
judge for himself, whether it is better to go to the 
West, or stay where he is. Whether, in fact, it is 
better to struggle for existence, and feel the cold 
grasp of poverty, or to roll in plenty and live at 
ease. 

This region was somewhat the theatre of Indian 
cruelties in the last war with the whites. One 
northern man became their victim in this settlement. 
His name was Elijah Philips, of New-Hampshire, 
When he was at the age of twenty-one, he took his 
pack on his back, travelled to the West, and located 
himself in what is called the Yankee Settlement, on 
the Bureau river. He was a persevering, hardy son 
of the North. He built a house, fenced in a field, 
obtained some stock and a few hogs ; and was in a 
fair way to gain a competency and become an in- 
dependent farmer. Just at this time, the Indian 



70 TRIP TO THE WEST 

war broke out, with the blood-thirsty Black Hawk 
as a leader. 

Murders having been committed above them, the 
settlers deemed their situation insecure, and fled to 
the east side of the Illinois river. After remaining 
there awhile, the war still raging, and its termination 
uncertain, seven of the settlers armed themselves 
with guns and bayonets, took a wagon, and went to 
the settlement to bring away such articles of house- 
hold furniture and husbandry as they could ; fearing 
the Indians might destroy them. They spent the 
day in collecting their articles together. At night, 
they left them and the wagon where they were, and 
concluded to go themselves to a house half a mile 
below, which was deemed more secure. Here they 
slept quietly all night, opened the door early in the 
morning, looked all around, but saw no signs of In- 
dians. Philips and another young man said they 
would go up to the other house and commence load- 
ing the wagon. They started off* together. 

In about twenty rods from the house, the path 
led along by a point of timber that made out into 
the prairie ; and when they had gone about half 
way to this point, the other young man stopped, re- 
turned back, and Philips passed on alone. He had 
just got into the house, when he heard a piercing 
ery of alarm from Philips, and in a moment after, 
the report of two guns. On running to the door, 
he saw Philips prostrate on the ground, and twenty 
or thirty Indians leaping out of the thicket. He 



AND TEXAS. 71 

rallied his companions, as they had not all yet risen, 
caught two guns, handed one to a man near him, 
and by the time they reached the door, the Indians 
were coming round the corner of the house. On 
seeing the guns with fixed bayonets, they dodged 
back. In a moment, they were all at the ends and 
rear of the house, rending the air with their astound- 
ing war cry, flourishing their tomahawks in menace 
and defiance ; but took special care not to come in 
front of the door. The settlers were all young men 
— the onset had been so sudden and boisterous, that 
they were taken entirely by surprise, and hardly 
knew what they did. On a moment's reflection, 
they concluded, if they contended manfully, there 
might be some chance for life. Although the num- 
ber of Indians might be ten to one of theirs, yet 
they had the advantage of being within a well built 
log house, impenetrable by balls. 

Spirited and prompt action saved them. While 
the Indians were hovering round, in doubt what 
course to take to dislodge them, they dug out a 
chink between the logs in the rear, and thrust out 
their guns. The moment this was done, the In- 
dians changed the tone of their yells, leaped for the 
woods, fell flat on their faces and crawled unper- 
ceived away. 

They now felt relieved from immediate danger. 
They knew there was a company of horse at Hen- 
nipen, fifteen miles distant ; and their only safe 
course seemed to be, to send for them if they could. 



72 TRIP TO THE WEST 

They had a horse with them, and he was feeding on 
the prairie about thirty rods from the house, nearly 
on the opposite side from the spot where the In- 
dians entered the woods ; but as they could not 
know where they might be, none deemed it prudent 
to go out to catch him. They called the horse, 
however, and although he was one generally hard 
to catch, he now started at once, came to the door, 
thrust in his head and stood still while the bridle 
was put on. One of their number mounted, and 
rode express to Hennipen. 

In the afternoon, the troop arrived ; reconnoitered 
the neighborhood ; found the Indian trail ; followed 
it a number of miles ; but they had gone beyond 
their reach. On a further examination of the woods, 
it was apparent, the Indians had been hovering 
around them all the day before while at work ; but 
were too cowardly to attack them, although they 
knew the smallness of their number. 

The situation of affairs at night they also knew 
full well. They truly supposed that all would pass 
the spot where they lay in ambush, in the morning. 
But accidentally, one passed alone, and discovered 
them, and was undoubtedly the cause of saving the 
lives of all the rest. But had the other young man 
passed on instead of returning, and why he did not, 
he never could tell, although the question was asked 
him immediately after the transaction, he also would 
have been killed ; and in that event, probably all 



AND TEXAS. 73 

the others would have been sacrificed ; for it was 
quite early in the morning, and they had not risen. 

On examining Philips, they discovered that two 
musket balls had entered his body — one in the re- 
gion of the heart, so that he must have died imme- 
diately. His remains were carried to Hennipen for 
interment ; and when I passed that way, I stopped 
at his grave to show, what I felt, respect to his mem- 
ory. On a small eminence in the open prairie, half 
a mile east of the village, repose the remains of 
Ehjah Philips. And although no monumental in- 
scription tells the spot where he so suddenly started 
for eternity, or " storied urn" adorns his grave ; 
although of humble birth, yet he was a young man 
of much vigor and enterprise, and bid fair to become 
a useful member of society. Let his memory hve 
" in story and in song," and be handed down to 
posterity with that of the other victims of savage 
cruelty. 

No apprehensions are now entertained by the set- 
tlers, of attacks by the Indians. Black Hawk and 
his followers have gone beyond the Mississippi, and 
only a few remnants of Indian tribes remain in the 
whole State. Years will not efface the memory of 
the many deeds of extreme cruelty, committed by 
the Indians in this short, yet bloody war. Acts of 
cruelty and outrage were perpetrated, too horrid 
and indecent to mention ; and so perfectly useless 
as it resjpected the result of the war, that they could 

7 



74 TRIP TO THE WEST 

have been committed only to glut a most fiend-like 
and savage vengeance. 

I cannot admire the Indian character. They 
are sullen, gloomy and obstinate, unless powerfully 
excited, and then, they exhibit all the antics of 
madmen. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

After spending a few days viewing the country in 
this vicinity, I again crossed the river at Hennipen, 
and passed on to the stage road. The next day, I 
took the stage, and went to Peoria, the county seat 
of Peoria county, which stands on the site of fort 
Clark. This is quite a village. It is regularly laid 
out on a beautiful prairie, on the western bank of 
the Illinois river ; has a brick court house, two 
taverns, a dozen stores, and about twenty dwelling 
houses, some of them quite elegant. It is eighty 
miles from Ottawa, one hundred and sixty from 
Chicago, one hundred and fifty from Galena, one 
hundred and fifty by land and two hundred by 
water from St. Louis. 

The river here swells out to more than a mile in 
width, and the opposite shore is low, marshy land. 
Peoria seems to be subject to bilious fevers and the 



AND TEXAS. 75 

fever ancf ague ; but I could perceive no cause for 
its being unhealthy, unless it was the river and 
marshy land on the other side. The water is 
brought to the village in an aqueduct, from a high 
bluff, half a mile back of it, and appeared to be 
excellent. A number of deaths had occurred, pre- 
vious to my arrival ; and I saw a number of pale- 
faced invalids. 

In coming to this place, I passed over a fine coun- 
try, much more settled, with larger fields and more 
extensive improvements than I found in the upper 
part of the State ; but still it was diversified with 
rolling prairies and groves of timber. While the 
mail was changing at one of the post offices, I pass- 
ed on and came to a log school house, where all 
the scholars studied aloud. This was quite a no- 
velty to me. More discordant sounds never grated 
on the ear ; and if the master had a musical one, he 
must have been severely punished. I asked him, if 
his scholars commonly studied in that manner ; and 
he said they did, although he thought they now 
hollowed a little louder than usual. This incon- 
venient practice of some of our ancient schools, I 
supposed had been entirely done away ; but on en- 
quiry, I was informed it still held its sway to some 
extent in many of the western States. 

Stages run from Peoria (through Springfield,) to 
St. Louis, to Galena, and to Chicago. There is a 
rope ferry just below the village, where the river is 
nanow. It is a place of a good deal of business. 



KG TRIP TO THE WEST 

quite a thoroiiglifare for travellers ; and it is supposed 
by some that it will shortly become the seat of the 
State government. I spent three days here, then 
took passage on board a steamboat for St. Louis. 

I have often remarked, that the amount taxed by 
taverners, is, generally, in an inverse proportion to 
their accommodations ; that is, the less they fiunish 
their guests, the more they charge. In my present 
trip, I have more than once been reminded of an 
anecdote related to me some time ago, of a tavern 
keeper at the south. A gentleman with his family, 
travelling in the westerly part of Virginia, was obli- 
ged one night to put up at one of the small country 
taverns, more suited to the accommodation of the 
teamster who sleeps in his wagon, than to the enter- 
tainment of gentlemen and ladies. They were 
furnished with the best the house afibrded, but it 
was mean in kind and badly prepared. Some of 
them w^ere obliged to sleep on the floor, and those 
that were accommodated with beds, w^ere exceed- 
ingly annoyed by the insects they contained. The 
gentleman arose early, ordered his carriage and asked 
the landlord the amount of his bill. He told him, 
thirty dollars ! The gentleman stared ; but at 
length asked him, what he had had to the amount 
of thirty dollars, or even five dollars. The landlord 
very politely assured him that his was a reasonable 
charge, for says he, I hire this establishment at the 
annual rent of thirty dollars, and this I must charge 
to my customers j the year is almost out, and you 



AND TEXAS 77 

are the only available guest 1 have had ; therefore I 
have charged the whole amount to you. The gen- 
tleman laughed heartily ; and considering it too 
good a joke to be spoiled by any fault on his part, 
very pleasantly handed him over the thirty dollars. 
He that travels much in the world, may have occa- 
sion to fear the rent day is near at hand. This 
frank explanation of the Virginia landlord has fur- 
nished an easy solution to some tavern bills I have 
paid, that otherwise would have been entirely inex- 
plicable ; and perhaps it may be equally useful to 
other travellers. 

The Illinois river is a wide, sluggish stream ; clear 
water, but generally, hardly any perceivable current. 
It is a very shoal river, having many sand bars.— 
Our boat did not draw more than two feet of water, 
yet was continually running aground. I should 
think the lead was thrown a quarter part of the 
time ; and it used to amuse me, sometimes, to hear 
the leadsman sing out " two feet and a half^^ — 
'^ two feet large'' — " twofeef — " two feet scant ^'^ 
— and then aground ; and perhaps it would be half 
a day before we could get afloat again. We were 
seven days going to St. Louis — rather slow travel- 
ling, and somewhat vexatious ; we thought, how- 
ever, we might as well be merry as sad, so we made 
the best of it. The captain had as much reason ae 
any of us to complain ; for we took a cabin passage, 
and he had to board us, however long the passage 
might be. All along down, the country is rather 



T8 TRIP TO THE WEST 

loWj except some bluffs on the river — and where we 
found a bkifF on one side, there would be either a 
low marsh or a lake on the other. Probably, there 
are twenty lakes below Peoria, on one side or the 
other of the river. They were all long and narrow, 
and often had an outlet into the river. They ap- 
peared more hke former beds of the stream, than 
any thing else. 

Pekin is twenty miles below Peoria, on a high 
bluff, the east side of the river, having two taverns, 
thirty houses, and a large steam flour mill. Sixty 
miles below this, on the same side of the river, is a 
large village called Beardstown. Here are large 
flour mills, saw mill, &c. all carried by steam.—- 
Twenty miles below this, is a small village called 
Naples. 

As we approached the Mississippi, we saw a good 
rnany stately bluffs on the right hand bank, com- 
posed of limestone, and rising almost perpendicular, 
from two to three hundred feet high. Some of 
them are really grand and beautiful. 

At length, with no small degree of pleasure, we 
came in full view of the majestic Mississippi river. 
The moment our boat entered the stream, it felt its 
power, and started off with new life and vigor. It 
geemed something like traveUing, after leaving th^ 
sand bars and sluggish current of the Illinois, to be 
hurried down the Mississippi at the rate of eight or 
ten miles an hour. 



AND TEXAS. 79 

We soon reached Upper Alton, a large flourishing 
village of recent origin. Here, are large steam flour 
mills, and large warehouses ; and in the centre of 
business is located the State Prison ! There is no 
accounting for taste ; but it appeared to me rather 
singular, to see a prison of convicts brought forward 
into the centre of a village to be exhibited as its 
most prominent feature. The reason may have 
been, to keep it constantly in vieio as a '' terror to 
evil doers." This is the last town we stopped at in 
Illinois — and on taking leave of the State, I may be 
allowed to add a few words respecting it. 



CHAPTER IX. 

Illinois is three hundred and fifty miles in length ; 
one hundred and eighty in breadth ; and lies be- 
tween thirty-seven and a half, and forty-two and a 
half degrees north latitude. It contains fifty thou- 
sand square miles — equal to forty millions of acres. 
It is divided into fifty-five counties, and, probably, 
now contains more than two hundred thousand in- 
habitants. All the streams, lakes and marshes are 
lined with a fine growth of timber, sometimes a mile 
or two in width, and sometimes merely a narrow 
^trip. And as the southern part of the State con- 



80 TRIP TO THE WEST 

tains the most low, wet land, it has also the most 
timber. The high land is generally prairie; but 
there are some exceptions to this. I found quite a 
number of beautiful groves of timber on high land ; 
sometimes there were only scattering trees, called 
oak openings. 

It is probably as level as any State in the Union. 
At the northwest of Shawneetown, there is a range 
of hills ; and high bluffs are seen along the banks 
of the Mississippi and Ilhnois rivers. In the min- 
eral regions at the northwest corner of the State, 
there are high hills, and the land is somewhat 
broken ; but the largest portion of the State is com- 
posed of gently rolling prairies. These prairies are 
some of them level and wet, but generally, they are 
high, dry and gently undulating. They all have an 
exceedingly fertile soil, and are covered with tall 
coarse grass and a great variety of beautiful flowers. 
The soil is a rich, black loam, entirely inexhaustible, 
and produces abundant crops without the aid of 
manure. In some of the old settled towns at the 
lower part of the State, the same spot of ground 
has been cultivated with Indian corn for a hundred 
years, and it now produces equally as well as it did 
at first. In the time of strawberries, thousands of 
acres are reddened with this delicious fruit. But 
this country, which so delightfully strikes the eye, 
and has millions of acres that invite the plough, 
wants timber for fuel, building and fences. It wants 
good water in many places, and in too many in- 



• AND TEXAS. 81 

stances, the inhabitants want health. These evils 
will probably all be remedied by the expedients of 
cultivation. Bricks will be used for building ; coal 
and peat will be used for fuel ; hedges and ditches 
will be made for fences ; forests will be made to 
grow on the prairies ; and deep wells will be sunk 
for pure water. 

There is a fine tract of rich level land extending 
along the eastern shore of the Mississippi about 
eighty miles in length, and from three to six miles in 
width. It commences near New- Alton, and termi- 
nates a little below Kaskaskia. About half of its 
width bordering on the river, is covered with a 
heavy growth of timber ; the remainder is a level 
prairie ; and in the rear it is bordered by a stately 
bluff of hmestone. It is undoubtedly the richest 
land in the world. Settlements have been made 
upon it to some extent, but it is not very healthy 
It is called the American Bottom. A bottom very 
similar to this, either on one side or the other, marks 
the whole course of the IHinois river. 

More than five millions of acres have been sur- 
veyed, between the Mississippi and Illinois rivers, 
and assigned by Congress for mihtary bounty lands. 
These lands embrace all the varieties of soil found 
in the State — rich bottoms, swamps, prairies, tim- 
bered lands, high bluffs and barrens. The northeast 
part of it is deemed the most pleasant and healthy. 

On Rock river, the Kaskaskia, Wabash, Fox, Du 
Page, Macoupin and Sangamon are large tracts of 



82 ^ TRIP TO THE WEST 

first rate land. And very similar to this, are Grand 
prairie, Mound prairie, the Marine Settlement prai- 
rie, and the one occupied by the New-England 
Christians. 

In the region of Sangamon river, nature has de- 
lighted to bring together her happiest combinations 
of landscape ; being beautifully variegated with 
woodland and lawn, like sunshine and shade. It is 
generally a level country ; the prairies are not too 
extensive, and timber abounds in sufficient quantity 
to support a dense population. In this beautiful 
section of the new world, more than two hundred 
families, from New-England, New- York and North 
Carolina, fixed their habitations before it was sur- 
veyed . The land is exceedingly rich and easily cul- 
tivated. It now constitutes a number of counties 
and is probably as thickly settled as any part of the 
State. The Sangamon itself is a fine beatable river, 
and has throughout its whole course, pure, trans- 
parent water and a sandy bottom. It enters the 
Ilhnois river on the easterly side, about one hun- 
dred and forty miles above its mouth. 

The Kaskaskia river has a long course in the cen- 
tral part of the State, and the lands upon its borders 
are happily diversified with hill, vale, prairie and 
forest. On its banks are Kaskaskia, the former 
seat of government, and VandaUa, the present me- 
tropolis. 

The region of Rock and Fox rivers is a beautiful 
and healthy portion of the State. The land is richj 



AND TEXAS. 83 

the prairies are high, dry and gently undulating and 
surrounded by excellent timber. The only faults 
are, the prairies are too large for the quantity of 
timber, and there are not a sufficient number of 
springs and small streams of water. But it is a 
very pleasant and desirable portion of the country, 
and I believe more emigrants are now directing their 
course thither, than to any other portion of the 
State. It has one advantage over all the western 
section of country, it is more healthy. I believe it 
is as healthy as any portion of the United States. 

Although there are some bodies of sterile and 
broken land in the State, yet as a whole, it contains 
a greater proportion of first rate land than any other 
State in the Union ; and probably as great according 
to its extent as any country on the face of the globe. 
One of the inconveniences attending this extensive 
rich country, is too great a proportion of prairies. 
They cover more than half of the w^hole State. — 
But the prevalence of coal and peat, and the ease 
with which forest trees may be raised, will render 
even these extensive prairies habitable. 

The original cause of these extensive prairies in 
all the western and southern country is altogether a 
matter of conjecture. There is no natural impedi- 
ment in the soil to the growth of forest trees over 
the whole extent of the country. It is certain that 
the fire is the cause of continuing them in existence ; 
for where the fire is kept out, trees spring up in 



84 TRIP TO THE WEST 

them, in a few years, and their growth is Vigorous 
and rapid. 

There are many reasons for the belief, that this 
western country was once inhabited by a more civ- 
iHzed race of beings, than the present hordes of 
wild Indians. Specimens of fine pottery and im- 
plements of husbandry have been found in various 
parts of the country ; and brick foundations of a 
large city have lately been discovered in the territory 
of Arkansas. These, together with the stately 
mounds and remains of extensive fortifications, in- 
dicate that the country was once inhabited by a race 
of men, who cultivated the soil for a subsistence, 
and v/ere well acquainted vvith the mechanic arts. 
From whence this race of beings came, or whither 
they went, is alike unknown to us. Since they left, 
the fire has made the cleared land much more ex- 
tensive. The fire, in very dry weather, and accom- 
panied by a high wind, after scouring over the prai- 
ries, takes to the woodland and destroys the timber. 
Last fall, I saw hundreds of acres of woodland, so 
severely burnt over, that I had no doubt the trees 
were generally killed. But in some places, the for- 
est gradually gains upon the prairie ; and could the 
fire be kept within proper bounds, the western 
country would soon have an abundant supply of 
timber. But this cannot well be done. The Indian 
sets the prairie afire, for the conveniency of hunt- 
ing — the emigrant sets it afire, so that the fresh 
grass may spring up for his cattle ; and so between 



AND TEXAS. 85 

them both, they all get burnt over. And when 
once kmdled, the fire goes where the wind happens 
to drive. 

This State has ffreat advantao^es for inland navi- 
gation by means of its rivers. On the east, it is 
washed by the Michigan lake and Wabash river ; 
on the south, by the Ohio, and on the west, by the 
Mississippi. The most important river within the 
State is the Illinois. It rises near the south end of 
lake Michigan, runs in a southerly direction about 
three hundred miles, and falls into the Mississippi, 
thirty miles above St. Louis. Its two chief head 
branches are the Kankakee and Oplane ; this latter 
river runs v,ithin twelve miles of the lake, and the 
space between is a low, wet prairie, so that it might 
easily be connected with its waters. From the 
north, comes in the Du Page, a larger stream than 
the Oplane. At Ottawa, eighty miles south of Chi- 
cago, comes in Fox river. This is by far the largest 
tributary of the Illinois, and at their junction is 
nearly equal to it in size. In all descriptions of the 
State, mention is hardly made of Fox river ; but it 
is the next in size to the Illinois and Rock rivers, 
and is one of the most beautiful streams in the 
whole State. It rises in the territory west of lake 
Michigan, runs with a lively current, in a very 
straight channel, from its source to its mouth. It 
heads in a lake, and this accounts for the fact, that 
it is not, like other streams, subject to freshets. It 
is generally fordable — the water is not more than 

8 



86 TRIP TO THE WEST 

about three feet deep, and the bottom is sand and 
pebbles. It is a clear stream, abounding in fish, 
and withal, passes through the most healthy part of 
the State. 

On the west side, nearly opposite Hennipen, 
comes in the Bureau river. This is a good mill 
stream, and is composed of two branches, the one 
called Great and the other Little Bureau ; and these 
branches join about five miles west of the Illinois. 
These branches, on the maps, bear the names of 
Robertson's and James' river, but for what reason I 
know not. On this river is a large settlement of 
northern people, and many families from the State 
of New-Hampshire. Below this, the most material 
tributaries are the Vermillion and Sangamon from 
the east, and Spoon river from the west. What- 
ever others may say, I cannot call the Illinois a plea- 
sant stream. It has a marsh on one side .or the 
other from its mouth to its source, and is full of 
shoals and sand bars. I passed down the river in a 
boat that drew less than two feet water, but it often 
run aground. The worst bar is just below Beards- 
town. We had to lighten the boat of its freight, 
water in the boiler, and passengers, before we could 
pass this bar ; and then, the hands had to jump in- 
to the water and push the boat over. For about 
two hundred miles from its mouth, it has many long 
and narrow lakes, of about the width of the river 
itself ; and probably they were formerly its channel. 
These lakes generally have an outlet into the river, 



AND TEXAS. 87 

and these so much resemble it, that a person not 
well acquainted with the stream, would be puzzled 
to know what channel to take. The river occupies 
too much ground for its quantity of water, and for 
about half of the year, it is a difficult stream to 
navigate. 

Rock river rises beyond the northern limits of 
the State in the high lands which separate the waters 
of the Mississippi from those of lake Michigan. It 
is a large, beautiful stream, has a lively current, and 
enters the Mississippi fifty miles below Galena. In 
the Mississippi near its mouth, is a beautiful island, 
on which is situated fort Armstrong. 

The other principal streams which enter the Mis- 
sissippi are Fever river, Parasaw, Kaskaskia, and 
Cahokia. No large streams enter the Ohio or the 
Wabash, from this State ; but some of them are 
navigable by keel boats. 

In the region of Galena are the richest lead 
mines in the world. Copper ore has also been dis- 
covered. The State abounds in mineral coal, which 
is excellent for the grate. It burns freer than the 
Pennsylvania coal, and emits much more light. Salt 
is made in large quantities at the salt works, near 
Shawneetown. 

In the southern part of the State, cotton will 
grow in a favorable year, and it is cultivated to some 
extent for family use. This conclusively shows a 
milder climate than in New-England. In the north- 
ern section, in the region of the vast prairies and 



88 TRIP TO THE WEST 

lakes, the wind sometimes blows strong and keen 
in the winter. It is not subject to the strong chilly 
easterly winds so severely felt along the Atlantic 
coast. During the year, the chmate is undoubtedly 
more mild than that of New-England. Apple, 
pear and peach trees grow vigorously and produce 
abundantly. In the spring of the year the air be- 
comes fragrant with the blossoms of fruit trees and 
wild flowers. 

The soil and the climate are well suited to the 
production of wheat, Indian corn, potatoes, and all 
garden vegetables. The crops are abundant and 
of an excellent quality. T!ie prairies every where 
abound in wild grass, and afford an inexhaustible 
range for cattle, horses and sheep. The grass is 
very nutricious, and it may with truth be said, there 
is not a finer grazing country in the world. 

The most prevalent diseases are bilious fevers and 
the fever and ague. These are caused by stagnant 
water and swamps. Removed from these, good 
health is generally enjoyed. The consumption, the 
scourge of New-England, is never known in all the 
western country. In some parts of the lower sec- 
tion of the State, the inhabitants have been afflicted 
with a disease called milk sickness. It, in the first 
place, affects the cattle, and never occurs until the 
frosts of autumn. These frosts kill the grass on 
the high prairies, and induce the cattle to go into 
the low bottoms and woods, where vegetation re- 
mains green. It has been discovered that the disease 



AND TEXAS. 89 

is caused by the cattle's eating a poisonous vine 
which grows hixuriantly in these bottoms. After 
eating this vine, the animal appears weary and faint, 
travels with difficulty, droops, and at length dies. 
If men or animals partake of the milk of the cows, 
when they are thus disordered, they are affected in 
the same manner. Men, however, sometimes re- 
cover. This disease is not confined to Illinois. Near 
the rich bottom lands in Indiana and Missouri, ani- 
mals and men have been affected with it. In the 
northern half of the State, I was informed, that 
not an instance of milk sickness had ever been 
known. 

There are no large towns in Illinois, but quite a 
number of flourishing villages. Danville, near the 
eastern line of the State, is quite a flourishing town ; 
and here the land office for the northern section is 
kept. It is one hundred and thirty miles south of 
Chicago, and it is supposed, that the office will 
shortly be removed to that place. Springfield, situ- 
ated on a branch of the Sangamon river, is near 
the centre of the State, and is a large, flourishing 
village. It is sixty miles south of Peoria, about 
thirty east of the Illinois river ; and it is highly pro- 
bable that it will become, shortly, the seat of the 
State government. The most important towns on 
the Mississippi river, are Galena, Quincy, Alton, Ed- 
wardsville, and Kaskaskia ; on the Ohio river, are 
Trinity, America and Shawneetown ; on the Wa- 
bash, are Palmyra, Lawrenceville, Palestine, Ster- 

8* 



90 TRIP TO THE WEST 

ling, &c. and in the interior, besides those we have 
before mentioned, are Vandalia, the present seat of 
the State government, Jacksonville, Maysville, Hills- 
borough, Salem, and many other small villages ; be- 
sides quite a number of paper towns, that may in 
time have a "local habitation," in addition to their' 
hitrh soundincj names. 

Chicago is now the largest town in the State ; 
and as it is favorably situated for trade, it will pro- 
bably continue to take the lead in time to come. — 
Vandalia, the present seat of government, is plea- 
santly situated on a high bank of the Kaskaskia 
river. Respectable buildings for the accommoda- 
tion of the government and the courts have been 
erected. The village contains about a hundred 
houses ; some of them, built of brick and elegant. 

Kaskaskia is the oldest town in the State. It is 
pleasantly situated on an extensive plain upon the 
bank of the river of the same name, and eleven 
miles from its mouth. It was settled as early as 
Philadelphia, by the French, and once contained 
seven thousand inhabitants ; but now it numbers 
not more than one thousand. This was formerly 
the seat of government ; it was removed to Ed- 
wardsville, then to Vandalia ; but it will probably 
be destined to take one more remove, either to 
Springfield or Peoria. 

Galena, on the Mississippi, near the northwest 
corner of the State, began to be settled in 1826. It 
is three hundred and fifty miles north of St. Louis, 



AND TEXAS. 91 

and about one hundred and fifty west of Chicago. 
It now contains between one and two thousand in- 
habitants, forty-two stores and warehouses, and two 
hundred houses. It is the seat of justice for the 
county, and has ten thousand inhabitants in its 
vicinity. 

The same provisions here for schools have been 
made as in the other western States. In addition 
to one thirty-sixth part of all the public lands, three 
per cent, on all the sales is added to the school 
fund. It is in contemplation to estabhsh an univer- 
sity. For this purpose a sixth part of the school 
fund and two entire townships have been appropri- 
ated. Rock Spring theological school, under the 
superintendence of the Baptists, is a respectable 
academy in the Turkey Hills' Settlement, seventeen 
miles east of St. Louis. It has fifty students.* 
Primary schools are found in the villages and popu- 
lous neighborhoods ; but in many places there is 
much need of them. 

The representatives and senators are chosen once 
in two years ; the governor and lieutenant governor 
in four years. The judiciary consists of a supreme 
court and other county courts. All free white male 
citizens, who have resided in the State six months, 
are entitled to the right of suffrage ; and they vote 
at elections viva voce. 



This school has recently been removed to Alton. 



92 TRIP TO THE WEST 



CHAPTER X. 

The prairies in the western country are all burnt 
over once a year, either in spring or fall, but gener- 
ally in the fall ; and the fire is, undoubtedly, the 
true cause of the continuance of them. In pass- 
ing through the State 1 saw many of them on fire ; 
and in the night, it was the grandest exhibition I 
ever saw. A mountain of flame, thirty feet high, 
and of unknown length, moving onward, roaring 
like " many waters" — in a gentle, stately movement, 
and unbroken front — then impelled by a gust of 
wind, suddenly breaks itself to pieces, here and 
there shooting ahead, whirling itself high in air — 
all becomes noise, and strife, and uproar, and dis- 
order. Well might Black Hawk look with indif- 
ference on the puny exhibition of fireworks in 
New- York, when he had so often seen fireworks 
displayed, on such a gigantic scale, on his own na- 
tive prairies. 

A prairie storm of fire is indeed terrific. Ani- 
mals and men flee before it, in vain. When impel- 
led by a strong breeze, the wave of fire passes on, 
with the swiftness of the wind ; and the utmost 
speed of the horse lingers behind. It then assumes 
a most appalling aspect ; roars like a distant cata- 
ract, and destroys every thing in its course. Man 
takes to a tree, if he fortunately can find one ; sets 
a back fire ; or, as a last resort, dashes through the 



AND TEXAS. 93 

flame to windward, and escapes with life ; although 
often severely scorched ; but the deer and the wolf 
continue to flee before it, and after a hot pursuit, 
are run down, overwhelmed and destroyed. 

Much caution should be used, in travelling over 
an open prairie country, in the fall of the year, 
when the grass is dry. Instances were told me, of 
the entire destruction of the emigrant and his family 
by fire, while on the road to their destined habita- 
tion. 

I had heard much of the backwoodsmen, and 
supposed, of course, I should find many of them in 
Illinois ; but after diligent search, I found none that 
merited the appellation. The race has become ex- 
tinct. Who are the inhabitants of Illinois ? A 
great portion of them, from the north, recently set- 
tled there, and of course, possessing the same hos- 
pitality, sobriety and education as the northern peo- 
ple. They went out from us ; but they are still of 
us. A person will find as good society there, as 
here ; only not so much of it. The upper house on 
Fox river settlement, was occupied by an intelligent 
and refined family, recently from Massachusetts. 

Meeting houses and school houses are rare, owing 
to the sparseness of the inhabitants ; but the coun- 
try is settling rapidly, and these deficiencies will 
soon be supplied. Indeed, so rapidly is the country 
settling, that in writing this account of it, I some- 
times feel like the man who hurried home with his 



94 TRIP TO THE WEST 

wife's bonnet, lest it should be out of date, before 
I could get it finished. 

Emigrants, going to settle at the West, with their 
families, would do well to take their beds, bedding, 
a moderate supply of culinary utensils, the most 
essential of their farming tools, and a good supply 
of clothing. These articles are all high there, and 
somewhat difficult to be obtained. The more cum- 
bersome of household furniture, such as chairs, 
tables, bedsteads, &-c. are not so essential ; because 
their place can be supplied by the ruder articles of 
domestic manufacture. In the new settlements, 
most of the families had chairs or benches, tables 
and bedsteads, made on the spot by the husband- 
men. 

Provisions are cheap, but vary in price according 
to the demand. Corn, at Beardstown, is worth 
twelve and a half cents a bushel ; at Hennipen, 
twenty-five cents ; and on Fox river, fifty cents ; 
and other articles in proportion. 

When the settler arrives at his location, his first 
business is to build a log house, which is soon done ; 
then fence in a field, and it is ready for the plough. 
The prairie breaks up hard at first, requiring four 
yoke of oxen ; but after the first breaking, a single 
horse can plough it. A good crop is produced the 
first year ; but better in succeeding years. He had 
better hoe his Indian corn. It keeps the ground 
clear of weeds, and increases the crop ; but half of 
the cornfields are not hoed at all. 



AND TEXAS. 95 

In the fall of the year, he must take especial care 
that his crops, stacks of hay, fences, &c. are not 
burnt, in the general conflagration of the prairies. 
To prevent this, as good a method as any is to plough 
two or three furrows around his improvements, and 
at a distance of about two rods plough as many 
more ; and in a mild day, when the grass is dry, 
burn over the space between. If he neglects this, 
he must keep a good look out in a dry and windy 
day. If he sees a smoke to windward, it will not 
do to wait until he can see the fire ; he must sum- 
mon all hands, and set a back fire. With a strong 
breeze, fire will sometimes run over the dry prairies 
faster than a horse. The inhabitants are often too 
negligent in this particular. While I was there, a 
number of stacks of hay and grain, and two or 
three houses were burnt, from the mere negligence 
of their owners. 

But I must bid adieu to the beautiful State of 
Illinois. To the practical husbandman, and to the 
enthusiastic admirer of the beauties of nature, it is 
alike attractive ; and in which, they both will find 
ample scope for the exercise of the powers of body 
and of mind. 

After two or three hours stay at Alton, we start- 
ed down the stream ; and in seven miles, came to 
the mouth of the turbid Missouri. Here, two 
mighty rivers join their forces, and rolling on with 
irresistible power, for thirteen hundred miles, min- 
gle with the waters of the ocean. The great Mis- 



96 TRIP TO THE WEST 

souri, after traversing a vast extent of country, in 
various directions, here bears directly down upon 
the Mississippi ; but the latter, like a coy maiden, 
shrinks back, recoils at his approach, and seems to 
decline the rude embrace ; and they travel on to- 
gether for forty miles, before the Missouri can unite 
its muddy waters with those of the clear and trans- 
parent Mississippi. Here, tlie Missouri, having at 
length gained the complete mastery, holds through- 
out its undisputed sway ; and gives its own peculiar 
complexion to the united stream. 

The appearance is, indeed, quite singular ; to see 
the two rivers passing along, side by side, in the 
same channel, such a long distance, without min- 
gling their waters ; and the line, between the muddy 
and clear water, is so well defined and distinctly 
marked, that it can readily be seen from the shore. 

On the western bank of the river, seventeen miles 
below the mouth of the Missouri, is the town of 
St. Louis. The view was fine and imposing, as 
we approached it by water ; and it is the most plea- 
santly situated of any town on the banks of the 
Mississippi. It stands on an elevated plain, which 
gradually rises from the water, to its western ex- 
tremity. Back of it, there is a level and extensive 
prairie, and above the village, are a number of stately 
Indian mounds. St. Louis is the most important 
town in all the western country ; and there is not 
a town in the world, such a distance from the sea, 
that in commercial advantages can at all compare 



AND TEXAS. 97 

with it. When we consider its situation, near the 
junction of two mighty rivers, the one navigable 
twenty-five hundred miles, the other one thousand, 
and the large navigable branches of each, and see 
that this place must be the centre of trade for the 
whole, it requires not the gift of prophecy to de- 
signate this spot, as the site of the greatest city of 
the West. It is now a large town, chiefly built of 
brick ; has a brisk trade ; and probably contains 
seven or eight thousand inhabitants. There was a 
time, when the only craft on the river was keel boats, 
and the transportation of goods, arduous and ex- 
pensive. Then, this place struggled slowly into 
existence, and sometimes remained stationary, or 
rather declined ; but the introduction of steamboats 
started it into newness of life and vigor. Its trade 
is now daily extending itself, and the town is con- 
tinually increasing in population and buildings. A 
dozen steamboats were lying at the landing — some 
bound high up on the rivers ; others, to Pittsburgh 
and New-Orleans. This seems to be a sort of 
" half way house," between the upper and lower 
country ; being a place of general deposit for goods, 
destined either way. And St. Louis will never have 
to contend with a rival ; for there is no other suita- 
ble spot near the junction of the two rivers, to 
locate a city. She will, therefore, continue to in- 
crease in size, wealth and beauty, and remain in all 
time to come, the undisputed " Queen of the 
West." 

9 



98 TRIP TO THE WEST 

There is a land office kept at St. Louis ; and 
plenty of government land to be obtained for a dol- 
lar and a quarter an acre. It is chiefly settled by 
Americans ; but French settlers are found, and in 
St. Louis there are a large number. Considerable 
trade in peltries is carried on v/ith the Indians, who 
come to the principal towns and exchange their 
skins for goods. They are continually seen in the 
streets of St. Louis. 

St. Louis has a theatre, and we attended it. — 
Quite a decent edifice, a tolerable play, and a full 
and fashionable audience. I could perceive no es- 
sential difference between this assembly and those 
of Boston or New- York. Good society is found 
here. The streets at night were quiet ; or only dis- 
turbed by the sound of the violin on board the flat 
boats, or the merry boatman's song. The sky was 
serene, the air mild, and we had many a pleasant 
walk through the town and its environs. Indeed, 
there is a peculiar balmy softness in the air, grate- 
ful to the feelings, not to be found in our northern 
climate. St. Louis is a pleasant place ; and were 
it not for the stacks of bar lead on the shore, and 
some slight peculiarities in the customs of its in- 
habitants, it could hardly be distinguished from an 
eastern city. A steam ferry boat plies between this 
place and the opposite shore, and affords a large 

profit to its ownpr. 



AND TEXAS. 99 



CHAPTER XL 



Missouri contains sixty thousand square miles, 
being two hundred and seventy miles in length and 
two hundred and twenty in breadth. It lies on the 
west side of the Mississippi river, between thirty-six 
and forty degrees north latitude. It now contains, 
probably, one hundred and fifty thousand inhabi- 
tants, of whom thirty thousand are slaves. 

A large tract of this State, commencing at its 
south end, extending up the Mississippi river above 
the mouth of the Ohio, and running into the in- 
terior, possesses rich alluvial soil, but is low, swampy, 
full of lakes, and much of it, subject to overflow. 
Beyond this to the west, the country is broken and 
hilly ; sometimes covered with a small species of 
oak, and sometimes naked sandy hills and plains. — 
The whole southerly half of the State, offers but 
small inducements to the farmer. Where the soil 
is rich, it is too low and unhealthy ; where it is high, 
dry and healthy, it is too barren and sterile to be 
cultivated. The best portion of the State lies be- 
tween the Missouri and Mississippi rivers. This 
section is the most settled of any part of the State. 
Its surface is delightfully variegated and rolling, 
and possesses large tracts of rich alluvial and high 
prairies. The soil contains a greater proportion of 
sand, than that of the other western States ; so that 
it is easily cultivated, and is never disagreeably 



100 TRIP TO THE WEST 

muddy. There are spots where we find the stiff 
clayey soil of Ohio and New- York ; but they are 
not extensive. No part of the globe, in a state of 
nature, can so easily be travelled over in carriages 
as this. Even in spring, the roads cannot be called 
muddy or difHcult to pass. There are two extensive 
tracts of heavily timbered upland, similar to those 
of Ohio and Kentucky — the one is called the Belle- 
vue, the other the Boone's Lick Settlement. The 
surface rolls gently and almost imperceptibly. In 
this region are many springs of good water, and it 
is said to be healthy. 

The Mississippi is skirted with a prairie, com- 
mencing ten miles above the mouth of the Missouri, 
for the distance of seventy miles. It is about five 
miles in width, and possesses an excellent soil. 

There are no prairies of any considerable size on 
the borders of the Missouri, within the limits of the 
State ; but its banks are generally covered with a 
beautiful growth of tall, straight forest trees. The 
bottom land on this river is about four miles in 
width, is sufficiently mixed with sand to prevent its 
being muddy, and is not subject to be overflowed. 
There are no bayous, ponds or marshes on the mar- 
gin of the Missouri. The bottoms are now consid- 
erably settled for four hundred miles above its 
mouth. Charaton, over two hundred miles up the 
river, is the highest compact settlement. But the 
largest and most populous settlement in the State is 
Boone's Lick, in Franklin county. This is one 



AND TEXAS. 101 

hundred and eighty miles above the mouth of the 
river. Scattered settlements are, however, found 
along the river banks for six hundred miles, to the 
Council Bluffs. Above the Platte, which is the 
largest tributary of the Missouri, the prairies come 
quite in to the banks of the river, and extend on 
either hand, farther than can be measured by the 
eye. This is the general complexion of the river 
banks until you reach the Rocky mountains. 

As far as the limits of this State extend, the river 
is capable of supporting a dense population for a 
considerable distance from its banks. Above these 
limits, it is generally too destitute of wood and water 
to become habitable by any people, except hunters 
and shepherds. All the tributaries of the Missouri 
are generally copies of the parent stream, and one 
general remark will apply to the whole. They all 
have narrow margins of excellent bottom land ; and 
as the country recedes from these, it becomes more 
and more sandy, barren and destitute of water, until 
it resembles the deserts of Arabia. 

Wheat and corn are generally the chief 
productions, and the soil is excellent for both. The 
whole western country is remarkable for withstand- 
ing the severest droughts. A crop has never been 
known to fail in the driest seasons. From twenty- 
five to thirty bushels to the acre is an average crop 
of wheat, and from fifty to seventy-five, of corn. — 
The good lands in Missouri produce corn in as great 

perfection as in any part of the world. It is warm, 

9# 



102 TRIP TO THE WEST 

loamy land, and so mellow that it is easily cultivated. 
Even where the sand appears to predominate, great 
crops are produced. The soil, in the vicinity of the 
Missouri, is more pliant, and less inchned to be mud- 
dy, than that on the banks of the Mississippi. Rye, 
barley, oats, flax, hemp, tobacco, melons, pumpkins, 
squashes and all garden vegetables flourish remark- 
ably well. Peaches, pears, plums, cherries, &c. grow 
to great perfection. The land seems well adapted 
to the use of plaster, and this is found of excellent 
quality, in inexhaustible quantities, on the banks of 
the Missouri. 

Beyond all» countries, this is the land of blossoms. 
Every prairie is an immense flower garden. In the 
spring, their prevaihng tint is that of the peach 
blossom — in summer, of a deeper red — then a yel- 
low — and in autumn, a brilliant golden hue. 

The natural productions of the soil are abundant. 
The red and yellow prairie plum, crab apples, paw- 
paws, persimons, peccans, hazelnuts and walnuts 
are generally found in perfection and abundance. 
Wild hops cover whole prairies ; and two or three 
species of grapes are found in various parts of the 
State. The heats of summer and dryness of the 
atmosphere render this suitable for the cultivation 
of the vine. Silk might also be raised in great 
abundance, as the mulberry tree is every where 
found among the trees of the forest. Near New- 
Madrid, cotton is cultivated. 



AND TEXAS. 103 

Bears, wolves and panthers are found here. The 
prairie wolf is the most numerous and mischievous. 
Deer, as the Indians retire, grow more plenty, and 
are frequently seen in flocks feeding near the herds 
of cattle. There is a species of mole found here, 
and indeed in all the western and southern country, 
called gopher. These animals live in communities, 
and build small eminences of a circular form and 
about a foot high. They are mischievous in potatoe 
fields and gardens. 

Rattlesnakes, copper heads, and ground vipers 
are found in the unsettled regions ; especially, near 
flint knobs and ledgy hills. They are not so com- 
mon as in more timbered regions. It is probable 
that the burning of the prairie destroys great num- 
bers of them. The waters are covered with ducks, 
geese, swans, brants, pelicans, cranes and many 
other smaller birds. The prairie hen and turtle 
dove are numerous. 

The domestic animals are the same as in other 
States. This State and Illinois have decided natu- 
ral advantages for the rearing of cattle, horses, hogs 
and sheep. 

A distinguishing feature in the chmate, is in the 
dryness and purity of the atmosphere. The average 
number of cloudy days in a year is not more than 
fifty, and not more than half that number are rainy. 
The quantity of rain is not more than eighteen 
inches. The sky in summer and autumn is gener- 
ally cloudless. There are no northeast continued 



104 TRIP TO THE WEST 

rains as in the Atlantic States. The longest storms 
are from the southwest. 

The usual diseases are intermittent and bilious 
fevers. Sometimes pleurisy and lung fevers prevail 
in winter. Pulmonic complaints, attended with 
cough, are seldom ; and consumption, that scourge 
of the East, is unknown. 

The summers are quite warm, and sometimes op- 
pressive ; but generally, a refreshing breeze prevails. 
The winters are sometimes cold, and the wind blows 
sharp and keen. The Missouri is frozen sufficiently 
strong to bear loaded teams. But days are found 
even in January, when it is agreeable to sit at an 
open window. A few inches of snow occasionally 
fall, but there is hardly any good sleighing. 

This State is known to be rich in minerals, al- 
though a large portion remains yet unexplored. 
Lead has been found in abundance. The principal 
^' diggings" are included in a district fifteen miles 
by thirty in extent ; the centre of which is sixty 
miles southwest from St. Louis, and about half that 
distance from Herculaneum, on the Mississippi. 
The earth is of a reddish yellow, and the ore is 
found embedded in rock and hard gravel. Fifty 
diggings are now occupied, from which three mil^ 
lions of pounds of lead are annually sent to market. 
It is transported from the mines in wagons, either to 
Herculaneum or St. Genevieve, and from thence by 
water to New-Orleans. Stone coal abounds, espe^ 
ejally in the region of St. Loiiis and St, Charles. 



AND TEXAS. 105 

Plaster, pipe clay, manganese, zinc, antimony, red 
and white chalk, ochres, flint, common salt, nitre, 
plumbago, porphyry, jasper, porcelain clay, iron, 
marble and the blue limestone of an excellent qual- 
ity for lime, have already been discovered in this 
State. Iron, lead, plaster and coal arc known to 
exist in inexhaustible quantities. 

St. Louis is much the largest town in the State. 
It is not only the most pleasantly situated, but has 
the most favorable location for trade of any town on 
the Mississippi above New-Orleans. It has, how- 
ever, been sufficiently described. 

St. Genevieve is situated about a mile west of the 
Mississippi on the upper extremity of a beautiful 
prairie. It is principally settled by the French and 
contains about fifteen hundred inhabitants. It is an 
old town, and has not increased for the last thirty 
years. 

Jackson, the seat of justice for Cape Girardeau 
county, is twelve miles west of the Mississippi, con- 
tains one hundred houses, some of them built of 
brick and handsome. 

The town of Cape Girardeau is situated on a 
high bluff" of the Mississippi, fifty miles above the 
mouth of the Ohio. It has a fine harbor for boats, 
and commands an extensive view of the river above 
and below. It exhibits marks of decay. 

Potosi is the county town of Washington. It is 
situated in the centre of the mining district, in a 
pleasant valley sixty-five miles southwest from St, 



106 TRIP TO THE WEST 

Louis. St Michael is an old French town among 
the mines. There are some other small villages in 
the vicinity of the mining district. 

Herculaneum is situated among the high bluffs of 
the river, thirty miles below St. Louis. There are a 
pumber of shot towers in its vicinity. New-Madrid 
is fifty miles below the mouth of the Ohio. Ca- 
rondolet is a small French village six miles below 
St. Louis ; and four miles below this, is the garri- 
son, called Jefferson Barracks. The public build- 
ings are extensive, and a large number of soldiers 
are generally stationed here. There are no large 
villages on the Mississippi above the mouth of the 
Missouri. Palmyra is probably as large as any. The 
others are Louisianaville, Troy and Petersburg. 

There are a number of fine villages on the banks 
of the Missouri ; the largest of which is St. Charles, 
twenty miles from the mouth, and just the same 
distance from St. Louis by land. It is situated on 
a high bank of solid limestone, has one street of 
good brick houses ; and in its rear, an extensive ele- 
vated prairie. It contains a protestant and a catho- 
}ic church, was once the seat of government, and 
jiumbers twelve hundred inhabitants ; a third of 
whom are French. It has finely cultivated farms in 
its neighborhood, and has as interesting scenery as 
^ny village in the western country. 

Jefferson Giiy is the present seat of government, 
but being thought to be an unfavorable location has 
pot improved as was exp^ct^d. It is situated on 



AND TEXAS. 107 

the south bank of the Missouri, nine miles above 
the mouth of the Osage river, and one hundred and 
fifty-four by water from St. Louis. Fifty miles above 
this, is the town of FrankHn. It is situated on the 
north bank of the river, contains two hundred 
houses and one thousand inhabitants. It is sur- 
rounded by the largest body of rich land in the 
State ; and is the centre of fine farms and rich 
farmers. Boonville is on the opposite bank of the 
river and was originally settled by Col. Boone, the 
patriarch of Kentucky. BlufTton, two hundred and 
twenty-nine miles by water from St. Louis, is the 
last village within the limits of this State. 



CHAPTER Xli. 

When we were ready to start, not finding a steani^ 
boat bound to New-Orleans, which would go under 
a day or two, we took passage, as far as the mouth 
of the Ohio, in one bound to Pittsburgh. 

On the eastern side of the river, to the mouth of 
tho Ohio, it is a level country, (with only one ex^ 
ception) called the " American Bottom," and is as 
fine, rich land as earth affords; but is somewhat 
subject to overflow, and is supposed not to be very 
healthy. Settlements are, however, making upon iti 



108 TRIP TO THE WEST 

On the west side we found a number of stately 
bluffs of limestone, rising from the water perpen- 
dicular two or three hundred feet. 

I was much amused to see the " screw auger grist 
mills" on the bank of the river. A place is select- 
ed where the current sets strong along the shore ; 
and a log seventy feet long, three or four feet in di- 
ameter, having a board float a foot in width from 
stem to stern, in a spiral form, like a coarse thread- 
ed screw, is thrown into the river. To the upper 
end of the log, by an universal joint, is attached a 
cable, and the other end, extended in a diagonal 
direction to a shaft in the mill on the bank. The log 
wheel floats in the water parallel with the shore^ 
about a third of it above the surface ; is held in its 
position by sticks at each end extending to the bank, 
and the cable itself prevents its going down stream. 
The current of the river turns the wheel, and the 
mill clatters merrily on the bank. 

These high banks are not altogether without 
their use. They furnish elegant sites for shot tow- 
ers ; and probably half a dozen of them are thus 
occupied. 

The greatest natural curiosity on the river, is what 
is called the "Towers." High pillars of limestone 
are seen on both sides of the stream, and one solid 
rock rises almost in the middle of the river, thirty 
feet high. Some of the most striking curiosities 
have particular, if not appropriate names given 



AND TEXAS. 109 

them; such as '^the grand tower," "the devil's can-^ 
dlestick," "the devil's bake-oven," &c. 

The navigation of the Mississippi in steamboats 
has its dangers. Snags and sawyers are scattered 
along down the river ; and it requires great attention 
in the pilot, to avoid them. But there are other 
dangers beside this. As we came along down, we 
passed a steamboat that had burst her boiler ; blown 
the upper part of it to pieces and killed a number 
of persons ; and further dowri the Mississippi, the 
"Boonslick" run into the "Missouri Belle," sunk 
her in eighty feet of water, and drowned a number 
of passengers. 

As we came down opposite the mouth of the 
Ohio, we had our courage put to the test. It was 
about twilight, and cloudy ; but objects could well 
be discerned for some distance. We saw a steam- 
boat coming up the river, and apparently intending 
to pass us on the left hand. When within a short 
distance of us, the boat "took a sheer," stood on 
the other tack, to pass us on the right. Our cap- 
tain sung out, "the boat is coming right into us ; 
back the engine." Then was a scene of confusion 
and dismay on board ; "and the boldest held his 
breath for a time." If the boats came in contact, 
one or both would undoubtedly sink ; and it appear- 
ed unavoidable. I ran up on the upper deck, and 
stood beside the flag staff, to wait the event. It was 
soon decided. By backing our boat and putting 
the steam on the other, we passed without striking 

10 



110 TRIP TO THE WE9T 

at the distance of a few feet only. This was, in- 
deed, a fortunate escape. 

I thought the pilot of the other boat must have 
been at fault ; but the captain told me he was not 
at all. A cross current from the Ohio struck the 
bow of his boat, and veered her round in spite of 
the helm ; and then, the only chance was to go 
ahead with all the speed he could. 

It now became quite dark, and in attempting to go 
across into the Ohio channel, the boat run aground 
on a sand bar. All the boat hands were employed 
till past midnight to get her off, but without suc- 
cess. They all turned in, to rest and wait till 
daylight. 

When the captain arose in the morning, he found 
the boat adrift. On examination, it appeared the 
force of the current alone had washed away the 
sand bar, and drove the boat across from the Missis- 
sippi side into the Ohio channel. He put the steam 
on, and we run to the landing place on the IlHnois 
side, and a short distance up the river. Here we 
found half a dozen steamboats, exchanging with 
each other goods and passengers. 

The mouth of the Ohio is a general stopping 
place for all boats running up and down either river; 
and would be a fine situation for a town, if the land 
were suitable to build upon. Although the shore 
appeared to be thirty feet above the then low stage 
of water, yet in a freshet, the whole is laid eight 
or ten feet under water. 



AND TEXAS. Ill 

We found here a large tavern house and grocery ; 
both stuck up on stilts ; the latter, standing nearest 
the bank, had a breakwater, to keep it from being 
carried away by the flood and floating timber. We 
stopped an hour or more ; went to the tavern, and 
found dissipation in a flourishing condition. Those 
acquainted with the place, told us it was as much 
as a man's hfe was worth, to stay there. Rioting, 
robbing, gambling and fighting were the general 
order of things, day after day, and night after night. 
For the honor of the human race, I hope this ac- 
count is exaggerated. But I must confess, appear- 
ances are against it. 

Here, we left our boat, and took passage on board 
another, bound to New-Orleans. These Mississippi 
steamboats are of gigantic size, and look like a 
floating castle — I was about to say the ancient ark ; 
and although it might fall some short of that ancient 
vessel, in quantity and quality of lading, yet when 
its size and great variety of cargo are taken into 
consideration, the comparison might not be deemed 
a bad one. In one particular, it would be exact. 
We had aboard a number of " creeping things.'^ 

Our boat was laden with barrels of pork, kegs of 
lard, hogsheads of han. s, bags of corn, bars of lead, 
bales of cotton, coopL*. of chickens, horses, men, 
women, children, and n^gro slaves ; men of gentle- 
manly deportment and of good character ; and 
gamblers, horse-jockeys, and negro dealers ; and 
women, of good fame, il! fame, and no particular 



112 TRIP TO THE WEST 

fame at all. This was, surely, variety enough for 
one boat. 

The untravelled man might obtain some new 
ideas of the world, by taking a trip in a Mississippi 
steamboat. It seemed like a world in miniature. 
Singing, fiddling, dancing, card playing, gambling, 
and story telling, were among the pastimes of the 
passage. Mere pastimes, to relieve the tedium of 
the voyage, for those who have no other resources 
at command, may not be the subject of censure ; 
but there were some practices on board this boat, 
which ought not to be thus lightly passed over. 

One woman, in the garb and mien of a lady, and 
whose pei;son still wore the bloom of youth, but 
whose conduct was far from being unexceptionable, 
appeared, sometimes, pensive and sad. She ap- 
peared as though she had seen other and better 
days ; and that her present course of life was not, 
even to herself, entirely satisfactory. I had some 
curiosity to learn something of her history, and one 
day in a talkative mood, she gave me the outlines 
of it. 

She said, she was the daughter of rich parents in 
the State of Delaware. Her father died while she 
was quite young ; leaving her with an ample for- 
tune, and in the care of an indulgent mother. She 
had always been kept at school ; learned music, 
drawing and dancing ; read novels ; attended par- 
ties, and was caressed and flattered. In short, she 
was a giddy girl, and knew nothing of the world. 



AND TEXAS. 113 

At this critical time of life, she was flattered by 
a young man of prepossessing appearance, but of 
worthless character, who offered her marriage. She 
knew her mother would, at her tender years, object 
to the match ; and therefore, at the early age of fif- 
teen, she clandestinely jumped out of the window 
of her boarding house in the night, and was mar- 
ried! 

This was a sore affliction to her mother; and 
although she herself was not entirely discarded, her 
husband was never permitted to enter the parental 
mansion. Her husband obtained her fortune, spent 
it " in riotous living," and after awhile, left her with 
two small children, and fled to Cincinnati. She, in 
her distress, applied to her mother ; she would re- 
ceive her, but not her children. She then took her 
children, and went after her husband. She found 
him ; but they lived but a short time together, be- 
fore he abused her in such a manner, she was obliged 
to quit him ; and not much caring whither she went, 
she took passage on board a boat for St. Louis. At 
this place she supported herself and children as long 
as she could, by selling her trinkets and superfluous 
clothing, and then was left destitute. She had 
never been accustomed to labor ; her hands were as 
delicate as those of a child — she " could not work, 
and to beg she was ashamed." As a last resort, 
(could a virtuous woman think so ?) she became an 
inmate of a house not of the strictest morals. 

10* 



114 TRIP TO THE WEST 

After staying there awhile, she became acquainted 
with some of the hands of the boat, who persuaded 
her to try lier fortune at the city of New-Orleans. 
She was now only about twenty ! She was miser- 
able, and expected to be so. Vice carried with it 
its own punishment. I tried to induce her to re- 
turn to her mother ; but in vain. Her conduct 
had been such, she was ashamed to return. A sad 
termination this, to the bright hopes, and fond an- 
ticipations of an indulgent mother. So true it is, 
that one improvident step in life, often leads to de- 
struction. 

Another female who figured somewhat conspicu^ 
ously, was one who came on board at the mouth of 
the Ohio from the steamboat Nile ; and from that 
circumstance, was called by the passengers the 
*'' Queen of the Nile." She was from the State of 
Ohio, possessed a fine person, and in her days of 
innocence, must have been handsome and fascina- 
ting. She was the daughter of respectable parents, 
and commenced life with high hopes and brilliant 
expectations ; but she had been " disappointed in 
love." Abandoned by her " cruel spoiler," she gave 
herself up to dissipation and crime. The bloom of 
her cheeks began to fade, and the sad aspect, some- 
times so conspicuously depicted in her countenance, 
plainly indicated a mind ill at ease and a heart pain- 
fully sad. She travelled without object, other than 
to revel in dissipation and kill time. But her course 
of life had made serious inroads upon her health, 



AND TEXAS. 115 

and it was apparent enough that her days must be 
" evil and few." I sometimes observed her sitting 
on the guard of the boat for hours all alone, gazing 
in sadness at the peaceful forest and cottages as they 
passed in rapid review before her, the tears fast 
flowing from her eyes, and her face exhibiting such 
anguish as may not be expressed by words. She 
kept on in the boat to New-Orleans, and I after- 
wards was informed by a gentleman who was a fel- 
low passenger, that she became mistress to a French- 
man in that city. How mistaken mankind are ! 
Crime never did cure the heart ache, or dissipation 
ever dispel sorrow. 

The steamboats are constructed like a long two 
story house, having large windows and green blinds. 
The hold is to stow ^ away their heavy freight ; on 
the first deck, is the gentlemen's cabin, and the din- 
ing room, where all the cabin passengers take their 
meals; in the centre, is the engine, cook room, &c. 
—and forward, are the boilers and wood. On the 
next deck, is the ladies' cabin aft, and forward is the 
place for deck passengers, having berths but no bed- 
ding. Over this, is what is called the " hurricane 
deck." 

A cabin passage from St. Louis to New-Orleans, 
is twenty-five dollars ; and a deck passage seven 
dollars — the passenger finding his own bedding and 
meals. Cooking stoves are provided, so that fami- 
lies often lay in their own provisions and cook their 
own meals. 



116 TRIP TO THE WEST 

Boats burn a good deal of wood — ours consumed 
a cord an hour ; and it is no small job to bring the 
wood aboard from the slippery banks of the Missis- 
sippi. As an inducement to the deck passengers to 
help wood the boat, two dollars are deducted to 
those who agree to wood ; so in that case they only 
pay five dollars. Thirty or forty of our passengers 
agreed to wood, but the mate and clerk had much 
difficulty to make them fulfil their engagements. 

It was sometimes really laughable, to see the ex- 
pedients resorted to, to get rid of wooding ; espe- 
cially when the boat rounded to, by the side of a 
wood-pile in the night. The clerk would sing out, 
" Wood-pile, wood-pile, where are the wooders ?" 
But they, like some characters in high places, were 
more inclined to " dodge the question," than to walk 
up manfully and perform their duty. Some feigned 
themselves sick ; some hid under the baggage, or 
beneath the berths ; others went on shore and 
skulked in the woods, until the w^ooding was over. 
So that w^ith all their coaxing and driving, they 
would not be able to bring to the work more than 
half of the wood hands. 

One fracas w^as ludicrous, although I could not 
but rejrret the result. It is well known, that the in- 
habitants of the several western States are called by 
certain nicknames. Those of Michigan are called 
wolverines ; of Indiana, hooshers ; of Illinois, suck- 
ers ; of Ohio, buckeyes ; of Kentucky, corn-crack- 
ers ; of Missouri, pukes, &c. To call a person by 



AND TEXAS. 117 

his right nickname, is always taken in good part, 
and gives no offence ; but nothing is more offensive 
than to mis-nickname — that is, were you to call a 
hoosher a wolverine, his blood would be up in a 
moment, and he would immediately show fight. — 
Now it so happened that the mate, who was a regu- 
lar built buckeye, had a dispute with a wood hand, 
who was about half drunk, and refused to wood. 
The mate stood on the lovver deck, and he on the 
deck above ; and in the course of the wrangle, he 
had called him some terrible hard names, which he 
bore w^ith becoming fortitude and forbearance. At 
length, the wood hand called him a " d — d old 
puke I" This was too much — unendurable. He 
fired in a moment — rushed up and floored him in a 
twinkling — dragged him down by his collar, thrust 
him ashore, and left him in the woods. 

But the steamboat, the steamboat ! For noise 
and confusion, give me the Mississippi steamboat. 
They all have powerful high-pressure engines ; the 
escape pipe is large, and at every breath they make 
a tremendous noise. They " talk big," and swiftly 
dash through the water. It is indeed a grand dis- 
play, to see the steamboats pass. In "a voice of 
thunder" they come — the wheels lash the water — 
and the prows cut the stream — and the waves roll 
in violent commotion for hundreds of yards behind 
them. And then, the noise of the engine, and hur- 
ry and bustle of the passengers within : — an excel- 
lent place to cure one of the ennui. 



118 TRIP TO THE WEST 

On board our boat, we had r number of very in- 
telligent and agreeable gentlemen — Kentuckians, 
Tennesseans, Mississippians, &c. I wish these 
western people would be a little more exact in speak- 
ing the English language. Some inaccuracies I ob- 
served ; and if this book ever reaches them, they 
will not be offended, but obliged to me for these 
suggestions. In the first place, they use the word 
which instead of lohat. Ask a question, and if they 
do not understand you, they reply ^' which! — 
Another phrase, " I have saw,^^ instead of "I have 
5een," is often used. Then there is " a right smart 
■chance," applied to almost every thing ; and " tote 
in the plunder," instead of " bring in the baggage." 
But the word heap has too much by far heaped upon 
its shoulders. " A heap better," " a heap easier," 
and " a heap of ladies," are phrases often heard. I 
may be a little sensitive, but the word heap is very 
disagreeable, and I wish it was expunged from the 
English vocabulary. All these expressions are not 
used by many literary men in this country, but they 
are indeed, quite too common. 

They have some peculiarities in the calling of 
money. A New-England ninepence is called a hit ; 
and the four-pence-half-penny bears the name of 
pickaroon. In travelling from New-Hampshire to 
Virginia some years ago, I was somewhat amused at 
the different names given to the same piece of mo- 
ney. My four-pence-half-penny became at New- 
York a sixpence, at Philadelphia a fip, and at Vir- 



AND TEXAS, 119 

ginia it became a four-pence-half-penny again. But 
all these singularities and inconveniences will soon 
be done away, and money will universally bear its 
legal title, dollars and cents. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

There is an independent frankness in these west- 
ern people that I admire. It is a kind of individu- 
ality of character — every one appears to act out 
himself, without reference to others. At the north, 
people are too apt to follow the multitude, or a par- 
ticular file leader ; and by them, shape their opin- 
ions and actions. In order to tell whether they will 
do a particular act, they must look about them, and 
ascertain what others will say of it. The politician 
must conform to the usages of his party, whatever 
they may be. He must think as they think, and act 
as they act, whether it be agreeable to the dictates 
of his own conscience or not. The pious lady must 
be exactly in the fashion — conform to certain lead- 
ers — ^be charitable by rule — and kind, in the most 
approved mode. If any one has the boldness to 
take an independent course, in fashion, politics or 
religion, he is looked upon with suspicion, as a dan- 
gerous innovator, and must not be tolerated. The 



120 TRIP TO THE WEST 

dogs of war are let loose upon him, and he is hunt- 
ed down for entertaining an opinion of his own. 
In this manner, individual character becomes swal- 
lowed up and lost in that of the multitude. 

But in this region, nature is true to herself. The 
useless and cumbersome shackles of custom and 
party are thrown aside with disdain ; and the indi- 
vidual walks forth in his own native freedom and 
independence. He does not shape his course by 
what his neighbors may say, do or think ; but acts 
according to the dictates of his own heart, and from 
his own opinion of right and wrong. He is charita- 
ble, kind and hospitable — not in a grudging, super- 
cilious manner ; or in a way calculated to display 
himself ; but with such an air of open-hearted wel- 
come, as to make the recipient feel at ease, and 
doubles the value of the kindness bestowed. How 
can man be niggardly and mean, among the teem- 
ing prairies and stately forests of the West, where 
nature herself, by showering down her blessings with 
a bountiful hand, teaches him also to be liberal ! 

And I have often to myself reversed the question 
and asked, how can northern people be other than 
inhospitable and niggardly, living in such a crabbed 
climate, and on such a barren soil. They cannot, irt 
general, afford to be liberal ; and were it otherwise^ 
the severe labor and economy — the continual dealing 
in small things — the constant rack of brains, to find 
some method to turn a penny to advantage — that 
must be gone through with, to gain a large estate^ 



AND TEXAS. 121 

seem to drive out of the head of the possessor all 
notions of liberality, and tend to steel the heart 
against noble acts of kindness. That which costs 
much, and is rarely obtained; is highly valued, and 
not lightly parted with. We are not well educated 
in the school of hospitality. We awkwardly per- 
form its teachings — seldom with gracefulness and a 
hearty welcome. 

Among our passengers, there were twenty-three 
negro slaves, men and women ; bought in Kentucky 
by negro speculators, to be transported to Natchez, 
where the market is high, to be sold. One of them 
was taken with the cholera, and in twelve hours died. 
He was put into a rough box, and when we stopped 
to wood, buried on shore. This was the only case 
we had, and the only one I ever witnessed. It is a 
dreadful disease ; but has been too often profession- 
ally described, for me to attempt it. 

These negroes are singular beings. Although 
one of their number had died ; and although they 
were slaves, and going to be sold to, they knew not 
whom, or what hardships they might be made to en- 
dure, yet they were always merry — talking, laugh- 
ing, singing, dancing, in one continued round. At 
every place we stopped, they would run on shore, 
and while one sung, clapped his hands, and beat 
time with his foot, the others would foot it merrily 
on the smooth ground. Knowing their destination, 
their thoughtless gayety sometimes produced disa- 
greeable sensations. There are some situations, 

11 



122 TRIP TO THE WEST 

however, where ignorance and thoughtlessness are a 
blessing. They were not confined at all, but ap- 
peared to be kindly treated, and to enjoy every lib- 
erty they might, consistent with their situation. 

The banks of the Mississippi look high enough at 
low water ; probably thirty feet ; presenting a raw 
edge next the stream, and generally covered with a 
dense forest of lofty trees ; yet at high water, they 
are generally overflowed, except at the high bluffs. 
The most prominent of these, are what are called 
the Iron Banks, Chickasaw Bluffs, Walnut Hills, 
and the site of the city of Natchez — all these are 
on the east side of the river. I do not remember 
of seeing a single high bluflf on the west side, below 
the mouth of the Ohio. There are occasionally 
small elevations over which the river does not flow ; 
and villages erected on them. But every few miles 
without regard to overflows, log houses are erected 
in the wilderness, inhabited by wood-cutters ; and 
their only employment seems to be, to supply the 
steamboats with wood. Although wood is cheap, 
being generally $1,50 a cord, above the mouth of 
the Ohio, and from there to Natchez $2,00, yet 
the demand is so great, and the forest so near, they 
make quite a lucrative business of it. 

The river is very crooked, sometimes going five 
miles to gain one ; has many islands, and some 
places, full of snags. There are two or three snag 
boats employed on the river, and when they get them 
chiefly out, the Missouri, which seems to take upon 



AND TEXAS. 123 

itself the chief regulation of the stream, brings 
down at high water a reinforcement equal to the 
first supply ; so that to keep the river clear of snags, 
is hke the labor of Sisyphus, who was doomed to 
roll a stone up a hill, and the moment he got it near 
the top, it would roll down again. 

The introduction of steamboats on the western 
waters, has revolutionized the country. They have 
opened the deep recesses of the West, to the free 
access of mankind, and let in the light of day upon 
them. The half-horse and half-alligator race are no 
longer to be found ; but the inhabitants of this part 
of creation look, and talk, and act, and live — very 
much Hke human beings. The refinements, elegan- 
cies and luxuries of life are not so generally found 
here, as in the Atlantic States ; but all the necessa- 
ries are every where abundant. 

In Michigan, Illinois, Missouri, and all along the 
river Mississippi, I found the inhabitants civil and 
kind ; and in no one instance did I ask for a meal 
of victuals in vain. It might, sometimes, be a 
homely one, and once I reccollect, it consisted of 
meat and bread ; but those who have such a mawk- 
ish sensibility that they cannot reUsh the simple fare 
of the forrester, ought never to set a foot on the 
western world. 

The flat boats are still in use on the river. We 
passed hundreds of them; some loaded with live 
stock, others with corn, cotton, &,c. They have 
hardly any resemblance of a boat. They are sixty 



124 



TRIP TO THE WEST 



or seventy feet long, ten wide, having corner posts 
and a square form like a house, and a flat roof. The 
current floats them down the stream to the destined 
port, the cargoes and boats are both sold, and the 
hands take passage on board the steamboats, home. 

We stopped at all the villages and towns of any 
size on the river, to take and leave passengers and 
freight ; but books give such an accurate description 
of them, as to render any particular notice here un- 
necessary. Memphis is the most pleasant, Vicks- 
burg the most flourishing, and Natchez the largest 
— all on the east side of the river. 

There are no large towns on the west side of the 
river below the mouth of the Ohio. As prominent 
as any, perhaps, is New-Madrid, situated just with- 
in the southern border of the State of Missouri. It 
was once a much larger village than at present. It 
is memorable for the romantic history of its origin 
under General Morgan, and for the great earth- 
quakes in 1811 and 1812. Mr. Flint says that these 
earthquakes were more severe than any known in 
our part of the continent. The shocks were felt 
more or less throughout the whole western country ; 
but they were more severe and produced the most 
disastrous eflfects in the region of New-Madrid. — 
The grave yard of the village, with all its sleeping 
tenants was precipitated into the river — the trees 
were violently thrown against each other, bent in 
various directions or prostrated — the earth burst in 
may places, and earth, sand and water were thrown 



AND TEXAS. 125 

high into the air — thousands of acres were sunk and 
many ponds formed — ^the river became dammed up 
and flowed backwards — islands sunk in the stream, 
and boats as they passed shared the same fate — the 
birds of the air became terrified, descended to the 
earth and flew into the arms of man to shelter them- 
selves from the commotion of nature — the whole 
country for a time became inundated, but as it was 
thinly inhabited few lives only were lost. History 
does not record an earthquake attended with more 
terrific circumstances and threatening a more exter- 
minating war with man and nature, than this. The 
thriving country about the village was made desolate, 
but now it is slowly regaining its former condition. 
In this region the country is rich and beautiful, but 
the many ponds made by the earthquake render it 
unhealthy. New-Madrid is, however, quite a vil- 
lage, transacts much business and is the most noted 
landing place for steamboats on the west side of the 
river below St. Louis. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

At Natchez, I left the boat, and stopped a day or 
two, to make the necessary preparations to go over 
land on horseback to Texas. There is a steamboat 
Jl* 



126 TRIP TO THE WEST 

that plies regularly between this place and Alexan- 
dria on Red River ; and we should rather havQ 
travelled by water as far as that place, and avoided 
crossing the Mississippi swamp by land; but the 
boat had gone, and would not return under a num-. 
ber of days. 

Natchez is an incorporated city, containing about 
three thousand inhabitants. That part of it which 
lies under the bluff near the river, is muddy, looks 
old and disagreeable ; but the main part of the city 
is situated on a high bank, two hundred feet above 
the river ; chiefly built of brick, quite pleasant, and 
makes quite a show of business. The ground back 
of it, is full of gullies, and is unpleasant. It is an 
old town, but has much improved within a few 
years. 

Many people going to Texas continue on down 
the river to New-OrJeans, and there take a passage 
on board a vessel to some port in the province ; but 
my desire was to see the country, and therefore, I 
chose to travel over land. A pleasant and compan- 
ionable gentleman from the State of New- York, 
who came down in the boat with me, agreed to bear 
me company. Some acquaintances of his, with 
their families, were on the road to Texas, and he 
like myself wished to see the country. 

Having provided ourselves with horses, portman- 
teaus, fireworks, &c. and obtained the necessary di- 
rections, we took an early start ; crossed the Missis- 
sippi in a ferry boat, for which we were taxed half a 



AND TEXAS. 127 

dollar each ; and took the road to Alexandria. We 
had some ill-forbodings about the great Mississippi 
swamp ; for just as we were about to cross the river 
a gentleman, of whom we made some enquires re- 
specting the route, told us he thought it now impos- 
sible to travel through it in consequence of the rains 
which had recently fallen. But we were all equip- 
ped to go by land, and this, our only route ; and 
therefore, we determined, at all events, to push for- 
ward. 

There is a road from the mouth of Red River, 
along its bank to Alexandria, and this, we were af- 
terwards informed, is the best route ; but it was 
seventy miles below us ; and whoever takes it, must 
go down in a boat. 

Our route lay, for the first six miles, up the river 
near its bank ; and then we turned more to the 
west. We passed half a dozen cotton plantations, 
some quite large, and saw an army of negroes pick- 
ing it. 

The cotton plant grows about as high as a man's 
head, has blossoms about as big as that of a small 
rose, and resembling in appearance the hollyhock, 
but more extensive branches. The pod is about 
the size and shape of the outer covering of a wal- 
nut ; and when ripe, it opens in quarters, and pre- 
sents the cotton in full view. A negro takes a 
basket or a bag, and swings it at his side, and with 
his thumb and finger picks out the cotton, almost as 
fast as a hen picks up corn. It grows from the 



196 TRIP TO THE WEST 

seed, is planted every year in hills like corn, and 
cultivated in the same manner. 
-^ ■ A field of cotton in full blossom, makes a fine 
appearance. After it is picked, it is laid on a rack 
to dry ; then ginned to take out the seed, and put 
up in bales for the market. The rope and bagging 
used, are the manufacture of Kentucky; or at least 
it brings more into market than all the other States. 
I W3lS told that one prime hand on good land would 
make ten bales of cotton a year, and raise corn 
enough to support himself. The average worth of 
these bales is five hundred dollars. From enquiries 
I afterwards made, I believe the plantations gener- 
ally make about seven bales to the hand. No won- 
der negroes are valuable in a cotton-growing coun- 
try. 

Our route now lay through a dense forest — and 
the ground generally so miry that we could only 
ride on a walk. Sometimes we came to the thick 
cane-brakes, about twenty feet high, and overhang- 
ing our narrow path. Sometimes, we found the 
palmetto, which exactly resembles a large green, 
open fan, standing on a stem a foot high, and so 
thick that we could hardly ride through them, or see 
any path at all. Sometimes we came to a sheet of 
water a hundred yards wide, in which a horse 
would plunge to the saddle skirts, and for a while, 
become stuck fast ; and again, we would find a cy- 
press swamp, full of cypress knees and mud. In- 
deed it is the worst swamp I ever travelled over, be- 



AND TEXAS. 129 

fore or since ; and sometimes, I thought our horses 
were stuck too fast ever to move again. 

These cypress knees are quite a curiosity. They 
start from the roots of the tree, grow from two to 
four feet high, about the size of a man's arm, but 
rather larger at the bottom, and are smooth, without 
leaf or branch. They look like a parcel of small 
posts with the bark growing over the top end ; and 
are so thick, that it is troublesome to ride among 
them. The cause or use of this anomaly in nature 
I cannot divine. 

Eighteen miles from Natchez, we came to two 
log houses and a small stream, called the Tensaw. 
We crossed the ferry, about twice the length of the 
boat in width, and paid half a dollar each for ferri- 
age. We had now twelve miles to go to find a stop- 
ping place for the night, and all the way, through 
a dense forest of lofty trees ; and it was three o'clock 
in the afternoon. The first half of the distance 
was decent travelling, although we could not ride 
much of the way faster .than a walk. Then we 
came to a wet and miry road. 

It began to grow dark in the woods. The trees 
were quite thick, and hung full of Spanish moss ; 
and there was no moon in the sky. The wolf, the 
wildcat, and the owl, had pitched their tune for the 
night ; and soon, thick darkness shrouded around 
our path. The heavens were clear ; yet so dense 
were the foHage and moss, that it was seldom I 
could find a loop hole, through which a star might 



130 TRIP TO THE WEST 

cast its rays upon us. I never had been in such a 
gloomy situation before. We were in a path, to us 
untravelled ; and by its appearance, seldom travel- 
led by man. We had shoals of muddy water to 
cross, and sloughs of mud to wallow through. And 
then the night was so dark, and the track so faint, 
we frequently lost it, and found it again with diffi- 
culty. It was ten o'clock at night when we arrived 
on the shore of the lake, and saw a light on the 
other side. We raised the ferryman after a while, 
and he came out and took us over. 

This lake is about a mile wide, and twelve long, 
and must have once been the channel of the Mis- 
sissippi. The ferriage here was half a dollar each. 
On the other side, we found a good house, and a 
genteel family within. They soon provided for us 
an excellent supper, which was very acceptable af- 
ter a ride of thirty miles over such an execrable 
road. Not being much used to travelling on horse- 
back, I felt excessively fatigued and retired immedi- 
ately to bed. My companion and myself had each 
of us a good bedj and we slept soundly until after 
sunrise. 

The morning was fine, so we walked awhile along 
the shore of the lake, before breakfast. It was 
about the twentieth of November, yet the air felt 
as mild as a morning in June. The winter was fol- 
lov.^ing hard after me, yet I had travelled to the 
southward and westward faster than the cold weath- 
er. The coldest weather I had found on my route, 



AND TEXAS. 131 

was in the State of New- York. There is a softness 
in the atmosphere of the western States that is very 
grateful to the feeUngs, and is not found in our 
northern cHmate. In going westward on the same 
parallel of latitude, the air becomes sensibly more 
mild and bland. The air is very clear, so here as in 
lUinois, I could discern objects much further than 
at the North. I could see a house so far off, that 
it would not look larger than a bee-hive. There 
had been no frost here, and nature wore her livery 
of green. 

This gentleman has a fine cotton plantation of 
rich alluvial land. His house is built facing the 
lake, on an Indian mound, levelled down to the 
height of about six feet. We took breakfast with 
the family in a large portico on the back side of 
the house. It was a good breakfast, on a neat 
spread table, and the lady at the head performed the 
honors of it, with an ease and grace seldom equalled. 
We performed our parts to a charm, both in eating 
the breakfast and complimenting the hostess. 

This family were from the State of Virginia, and 
had been settled here in Louisiana seven years. — 
The gentleman informed me they had generally en- 
joyed good health, although they had sometimes 
been afflicted with the fever and ague. 

It is refreshing to the weary traveller, when far 
away from his home, to find a spot in his path, 
where he can renew his strength, and repose in 



132 TRIP TO THE WEST 

peace. At such a spot he hngers, leaves it with re- 
gret, and treasures it up in his memory. 

I have often tliought, that many persons do not 
travel in a right spirit. They start on their journey 
with a full belief that all the customs and modes of 
life they find, differing from those they have been 
accustomed to, are all wrong, and proper subjects of 
censure and dislike. They see nothing in its true 
light, enjoy nothing, find fault with everything ; and 
are continually running their heads against a post. 
They are always on the rack ; and probably punish 
themselves as much as they do every one around 
them. But such a course betrays a gross ignorance. 
Who can read the outpourings of madame Trol- 
lope's brain, without being convinced that she had 
too gross conceptions, and too strong prejudices, to 
write the history of any people, whose manners were 
different from her own. She saw nothing, only 
through a jaundiced eye ; and she had too narrow 
and contracted a mind, ever to make the important 
discovery, that the fault might be in herself, and not 
in the objects with which she was surrounded. 

Some prefer to be mere scavengers ; and when 
they find anything gross or impure, delight to ex- 
hibit it to the gaze of the world. I have often 
thought of the severe reply of Dr. Johnson to a lady, 
who told him she liked his dictionary, because he 
had no indelicate words in it. O, says the doctor, 
I did not trouble my head about them, but I see you 
have been looking for them. 



AND TEXAS. 133 

Other travellers think, the more fault they find, 
the more they will be noticed; and they will be 
treated with the more deference and respect. I 
once happened to ride in the stage with the venera- 
ble Chief Justice Marshall. He was affable and po- 
lite, at peace with himself, and displeased at nothing. 
In the same stage, as if nature intended to exhibit 
two beings, in bold relief, and make the contrast the 
more striking, was a testy young man, who found 
fault with every thing, and was pleased with noth- 
ing. He cursed the driver, the stage and the road ; 
and the country through which we travelled was too 
execrable to live in. At the hotel, where we stop- 
ped to dine, he keep the house in a continual uproar. 
The dinner bell rang, and we set down at the table. 
For some reason, he did not come in immediately ; 
and when he made his appearance, the table was 
entirely full. This was too much for him to bear. 
He cursed the waiter for not saving a place for him. 
The waiter, as quick as possible, provided him a 
place at a side table. But he was determined not 
to be thrown into the shade in this manner. The 
Judge ate his dinner in silence ; but this side table 
gentleman kept a continual cry for something. " I 
say, waiter " — bring me this, and bring me that. — 
His vociferations became quite annoying. At length, 
he cried out with rather increased vehemence, " I 
say, waiter, bring me a fresh potatoe." The mo- 
ment this was uttered, one of the gentleman at our 
table said; " Waiter, give that gentleman afresh 

12 



134 TRIP TO THE WEST 

chair, I am sure he has set in that one long enough." 
This was a damper. It caused quite a laugh at the 
young man's expense. He became silent, and after 
dinner, we saw no more of him. 



CHAPTER XV. 

" Behold us mounted once again," — and imme- 
diately after leaving this gentleman's plantation, we 
again passed into a dense forest and found a muddy 
path. In about six miles we found some sandy 
land and pine timber, and here we left what is call- 
ed the Mississippi swamp. We soon came to the 
outlet of the lake, which we had to ford. The 
water was deep, and the shore deep mud. It was 
a difficult job to make a horse wallow through. We 
were told that a horse got swamped and died in the 
mud, a few feet from the spot where we crossed. 

We came to the banks of Washita river, follow- 
ed it down three miles, and crossed over to Harri- 
sonburg. The town is built on a level plain on the 
west bank of the river; but it contains not more 
than twenty houses. This river empties into Red 
River, and is navigable for steamboats a long dis- 
tance above the village. It is forty-two miles west 
of Natchez. On this river are the lands where the 



AND TEXAS. 135 

famous Aaron Burr talked of establishing a colony; 
but unless the land above and below is better than 
in this region, it might not have been very flourish- 
ing. The soil is too sandy and poor. 

We rode twenty-five miles over a roiling sandy 
country, generally covered with pine woods; and 
stopped at night with a gentleman who had been 
one of Burr's party. He did not seem inclined to 
say much of that ill-fated expedition. Here we 
were kindly treated, and fared well. He had been 
there nineteen years ; had cleared a large planta- 
tion ; raised cotton, corn and cattle; had eight or 
ten negroes, and possessed the necessaries of hfe in 
abundance. But he still lived in a log house, with- 
out a glass window in it. I asked him, why he did 
not have windows. He said, the house was well 
enough ; if the hole cut for a window did not make 
it light enough, he opened the door. It was not 
just such a house as I should be contented in, for 
nineteen years, and possessing the wealth he had. — 
It, however, was to his taste ; and for aught I could 
see, he was as happy as those who live in much bet- 
ter houses. 

To-day we travelled thirty-three miles to Alexan- 
dria, just one hundred miles from Natchez. The 
first forty was Mississippi swamp, excellent land, but 
a good deal of it too low for cultivation ; the last 
sixty miles was, with few exceptions, hilly, sandy, 
pitch pine woods. We passed only a few good plan- 
tations. Occasionally, we found a small prairie of 



136 TRIP TO THE WEST 

poor soil, and a deserted log house. It was indeed 
the most dreary road I ever travelled. In the last 
day's travel, we passed two small rivers ; one we 
crossed in a ferry boat ; and to our special wonder, 
we found quite a decent bridge over the other. 

Red River is rightly named ; it is almost as red as 
blood, caused by the red soil through which it passes. 
It is quite a large stream; but the water is too brack- 
ish to drink, or for culinary purposes. The only 
resource of the inhabitants of Alexandria is to catch 
rain water for which they have enormous large cis- 
terns. We crossed the river opposite the town in a 
ferry boat, and found the current about as strong as 
that of the Mississippi. It is navigable for steam- 
boats, in a moderate stage of water, as high up as 
^' the raft,'' and when the removal of that is com- 
pleted, for a long distance into the country. About 
a mile above the town, there is a short rapid which 
boats cannot pass when the water is low. 

The mouth of Red River has probably undergone 
some changes. It is almost certain, that in by-gone 
years, Red River had its own separate channel to 
the Gulf of Mexico ; but in process of time, the 
ever changing Mississippi river took a long turn that 
way ; struck into its channel, and after appropriating 
its waters and three miles of its bed to its own use, 
wheeled round to the left, and pursued its own 
course to the ocean. In this state of the case, the 
upper part of Red River became a tributary of the 
Mississippi, and the lower part a mere waste- way to 



AND TEXAS. 137 

pass off its superfluous waters. But the inconstant 
Mississippi, a short time ago, cut out for itself a new, 
strait channel across the bend, and left Red River 
to itself. This cut-off, however, proved of incalcu- 
lable advantage to that section of country. It let 
off the Mississippi waters so freely, that a large tract 
of most excellent land does not now overflow ; and 
this is sought for with avidity, and setthng fast. 

Alexandria is pleasantly situated on a level plain, 
the south side of Red River, one hundred and four 
miles from its mouth, and three hundred and twen- 
ty-nine from New-Orleans. It is regularly laid out 
in squares ; has a court house, three hotels, eight or 
ten stores, two or three groceries, and a number of 
good dwelling houses. Its chief export is cotton, 
and that of the first quahty. Red River cotton com- 
mands the highest price in market. I saw a luigo 
number of bales piled on the river bank, and wagon 
loads coming in. 

Gentlemen and ladies, in pleasure carriages and 
on horseback, were riding through the streets ; and 
the hotels were full of guests. It appears to be a 
place of business and of pleasure ; of much wealth, 
and in a rich neighborhood. This place and Natch- 
itoches, seventy-five miles above it, are the only 
towns of any size in this section of the country. 

At the upper end of the town, there is a regular 

laid out race-course, of a circular form, and a mile 

in extent. Here, the speed of horses is frequently 

put to the test, and extensive bets made on the re- 

12* 



138 TRIP TO THE WEST ^ 

suit. This seems to be the favorite sport of* this 
country — of more absorbing interest than any other ; 
and about which the people talk more than on any 
other one subject. Good race-horses are of great 
value, and almost any price will be given for them. 
Although the race-course may have its great attrac- 
tions — it may exhilarate the feelings, to see that 
noble animal, the horse, with mettle high, and lofty 
bearing, spurn the dust beneath his feet, and skiff^ 
along the plain with the sw iftness of the wind ; and 
although it may have a tendency to improve the 
breed of horses ; yet upon the whole, may it not 
be said, that it is purchasing improvement and 
pleasure, at a great expense of time and money ; 
and, independent of its moral effect upon society, 
productive of more evil than good. 

GainDhng is too much the order of the day. A 
large billiard room faces the main street in this vil- 
lage, and seems never to lack for customers. In 
this room one man killed another by striking him 
on the head with the cue, and his trial was just fin- 
ished as I arrived. He was convicted of manslaugh- 
ter, and sentenced to ten years confinement in the 
State Prison. The result of the trial gave general 
dissatisfaction among the people. They thought he 
ought to have been convicted of murder and suffer- 
ed its penalty. 

Not much attention is paid to the cultivation of 
vegetables or fruit. The peach and fig-tree were 
the only fruit trees I saw, and but few of them. — 



AND TEXAS. 139 

The fig-tree much resembles our northern quince 
tree, but grows some larger in size. The only veg- 
etables we had at table, were turnips and sweet 
potatoes. The northern potatoe will not produce 
a crop unless new seed is obtained every year. 

All the beds in this region are surrounded with 
thin curtains, or as they are termed here, moscheto- 
bars, to protect the inmate from that pestiferous, 
anti-sleeping insect, the moscheto. Of all insects 
this world produces, the moscheto is the most trou- 
blesome and annoying. To lie down without a bar, 
as I sometimes did, and fight the moschetoes all 
night long is dreadful. Too tired and sleepy to 
keep awake, I would fall into a drowse, only to be 
aroused in a moment by half a dozen dabbing into 
my face, and singing in my eurn They are indeed, 
too familiar by half ; and the only chance to cut ^Uo,'r 
acquaintance is to flee. I would not spend my days 
in the region of moschetoes for the sake of wealth, 
for I should only possess splendid misery. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

About a mile above this place, we left Red River, 
and travelled the road on the bank of Bayou Rapide 
for twenty-five miles, to the mansion house of a Mr. 



140 TRIP TO THE WEST 

Henderson, where we stayed over night. In this 
day's ride, we passed over as rich land as I ever saw, 
covered with extensive cotton plantations. It is all 
river-bottom land of a red clayey soil ; and all along 
the road, as we passed, we saw clouds of negroes 
with bags and baskets at their sides, picking cotton. 
The land produces an abundant and a profitable 
crop, and the planters appear to have grown rich. 
But it seems not exactly to be a paradise, if there 
be indeed, any such a place on earth. It is exces- 
sively annoyed by moschetoes, and is very unhealthy. 
During the warm, sickly summer months, the plant- 
ers with their families flee to the pine woods, where 
the air is fine and salubrious ; and leave their over- 
seers and negroes to battle with disease and mos- 
chetoes, the b^^t vvay they can. They are very 
^v^iijpanionable, hospitable and kind, and their style 
of living is much the same as that of the southern 
planters generally. 

About half way up, we crossed the stream over 
& bridge to the right hand side ; and just before 
we arrived at Mr. Henderson's, we crossed it again. 
Boon after we crossed it the first time, I happened 
to cast my eyes towards the stream, and found it 
running the other way ! We had certainly been 
travelling all along up the stream ; and now, with- 
out any apparent cause, either in the " lay of the 
land," or direction of the channel, it was just as 
certain its current was with us. 1 enquired of our 
host the meaning of all this. He pleasantly observ- 



AND TEXAS. 141 

ed, that the streams in this part of the country, were 
very accommodating ; they could go ahnost any 
way. He, however, explained the phenomenon. 
He said, the channel of the stream, by the side of 
which we had travelled, was, undoubtedly, once the 
bed of Red River. Ten miles above him, the river 
had taken a straight course to Alexandria, and left 
its former circuitous route. The Vv^ater, which we 
now saw running, is supplied by a stream from the 
lake, enters the old channel on the opposite side 
from where we were travelling, then divides itself, 
one half running down and entering the river near 
Alexandria, and the other running up the old bed, 
and entering the river ten miles above. When the 
river is high, a portion of it flows round in its old 
bed, and drives the upper current along with it. So 
that by this house the stream runs about half of the 
year one way, and the other half in the opposite 
direction ! A rather difficult stream I should think, 
to build a mill upon. This is indeed quite a curi- 
osity ; but to the explanation one objection may be 
urgod. If this be in fact the old bed of Red Reiver, 
and froii examination I am satisfied it is, one might 
naturalh suppose it would be all along descending 
one wai; and, therefore, the stream which enters 
it wouldnot divide itself, but the whole of it run in 
the sant direction that the river formerly did. The 
answer lo Uiis is, the stream coming in, carried sand 
with itj^nd for a considerable distance somewhat 
filled up thv old channel, so as to make a descent 



142 TRIP TO THE WEST 

each way ; but not so much as to prevent Red River 
when high, from sweeping round, in its former 

course. 

A curiosity, in some respects similar to this, is 
found in Arkansas territory. White river and Ar- 
kansas river enter the Mississippi ten miles apart ; 
and about twenty miles above, there is a direct water 
communication between them ; which is a large 
navigable stream ; the water of which runs, some- 
times one way and sometimes the other, according 
to the comparative height of each river ; so that a 
person living on its bank, could make no sort of 
calculation which way the stream might run, from 
day to day. 

Mr. Henderson has a large house pleasantly situ- 
ated on a sandy hill near the pine woods, and com- 
mands an extensive view in front of the river flat- 
land, and cotton plantations. We here fared well ; 
and as Mr. Henderson has ample accommodations, 
his house may be safely recommended as a stopping 
place for the traveller. Our route now lay through 
the pine woods. Our object was to strike the road 
from Natchitoches to Mexico, at the nearest point 
practicable ; and this spot, we were told, wis at the 
garrison, fort Jessup. This fort is situatedhalf way 
between Natchitoches and the Sabine rive; the line 
between the United States and Texas ; beng twen- 
ty-five miles from each. Natchitoches beingtwenty- 
five miles north of our route, we conclu^d not to 
pass through it ; but when Red River i/iigh, trav- 



AND TEXAS. 143 

ellers to Texas often take a passage on board a 
steamboat from Natchez to that place, and from 
thence, take the Mexican road. 

From Mr. Henderson's an intelhgent gentleman, 
well acquainted with the country, travelled with us 
three or four days on our route ; and from whom 
we obtained much information. This day, we trav- 
elled forty miles through an unbroken forest of pitch 
pine. The land is sandy, gently undulating, but 
seldom rocky. The trees were of good size, but 
not so thick together as to prevent the grass from 
growing beneath them ; or the traveller from seeing 
a great distance as he passes along. About half 
way, we found a small log house, in which a white 
man lived with a black wife. With some people, I 
suppose this would be commendable ; but I confess 
it gave me unpleasant feehngs to see half a dozen of 
half-bloods running about the house. He profess- 
ed to keep a sort of tavern, but all the refreshment 
we obtained was bread and meat. 

At night, we came to the house of a planter, near 
a small river. He had a hundred acres cleared of 
river bottom land, which had been planted with cot- 
ton and corn ; a large stock of cattle and hogs, 
which r^ged in the woods. He had lived here 
twelve yUs, was worth twenty thousand dollars ; 
yet still liied in a log house with only two rooms, 
and witout a window in it. Our supper was fried 
beef, fri^ greens, sv*^eet potatoes, corn bread and a 
cup of doft^e, without milk or sugar ; which we ate 



144 TRIP TO THE WEST 

by the light of the fire, as he had neither a candle 
oi:-'a lamp. Our fellow traveller told us that we had 
now got out of the region of what we should call 
comfortable fare ; and we might expect to find it 
worse, rather than better, all the way through Tex- 
as. Our lodging was on a comfortable bed made 
of Spanish moss ; and our breakfast exactly like our 
supper, which we ate with the doors open to give us 
light. Our bill was a dollar each, for supper, break- 
fast, lodging and horsekeeping ; and this, I found to 
be the general price, in all country places through- 
out Texas. 

After passing the river and about a mile of bottom 
land, we came to the pine woods again. I could 
always tell when we approached a stream, by the 
trees being covered with Spanish moss. The first I 
saw, was on the Mississippi, about a hundred miles 
above Natchez ; and in all the region south of that, 
it is found hanging to the hmbs of the trees near 
streams of water. It is of a silver-grey color, hang- 
ing straight down from the limbs three or four feet, 
like a horse's mane. It looks, perhaps, more like 
dressed flax than any thing else ; and some ^i: the 
trees were so completely covered with it that we 
could scarcely discover any thing but themoss. It 
does not strongly attach itself to the limb I used 
to pull off handfulls of it, as we passed along, to 
examine. It is but the w^ork of a few miutes to 
gather enough for a bed. The only proaration 
necessary is to scald it in hot water, or jo let it re- 



A.ND TEXAS. 145 

main awhile in cold water, to rot like hemp. It 
then looks like fine long hair, and a dark brown 
color. When dry, it is whipped, and put into the 
tick. It makes a very good, cheap bed, and lasts 
a long time. Of this material most of the beds in 
this country are made, and sometimes a mattress 
of the kind is found at the north. 

All the river bottom lands at the south, are cov- 
ered with a dense, heavy growth of trees, among 
which are many kinds not found at the north. The 
cotton-wood grows very large, somewhat resembling 
the white-wood of the western States. The mag- 
noHa, celebrated for its large, splendid blossom, is 
an evergreen, having a dark, green leaf an inch and 
a half wide, and two and a half long, and of the size 
of the maple — the peccan, a tree resembling the wal- 
nut, and bearing a round nut an inch long, equal to 
the hickory-nut — the hackberry, about the size and 
much resembling the beach — ^the holly, a small ever- 
green, having a small thick leaf — the chinquopin, a 
mere shrub, resembling tlie chestnut tree, and bearing 
a similar but smaller nut. We frequently found the 
grape vine of large size running high up the trees; 
and occasionally, a spot of cane-brake. 

This day's travel was through the pine wood^, 
except at some few places where we found a small 
clearing and a log house, near some small stream. 
We did not go by fort Jessup. Our companion 
kn^vv of a nearer route, and we took it. About the 
middle of the afternoon, we came out on the Mex- 

13 



146 TRIP TO THE WEST 

icaii road, three miles soutli of the garrison. It ap- 
peared to be a road a good deal travelled by wag- 
ons, as well as on horseback ; some places running 
through swamps and muddy ; occasionally, a bridge 
over the most miry streams ; but generally in a state 
of Nature. The land became some better, and we 
passed more settlements. 

At night we stopped at a log house kept by a 
widow. She had, living with her, two sons and one 
daughter. The house had no windows, and but 
one room in it. Near it, was a small kitchen where 
a negro woman did the cooking. Our fare was very 
similar to that of the night before, except the old 
lady had a candle on the table at supper. There 
w^ere four beds in the room where we all slept — the 
old lady and her daughter in one bed — her two sons 
in another — and we three travellers in the other 
two. I hope the delicate nerves of my fair readers 
may not greatly be disturbed at this ; if they are, 
they must close the book, and read no further ; for 
if I must tell " the whole truth," I shall be obliged 
to state, that during the thirty following nights, I 
often slept in the same room with one or more la- 
dies ! 

The old lady had about twenty acres cleared and 
cultivated with corn ; but the land is not the first 
rate. The fact is, all along Missouri, Arkansas and 
Louisiana, after you get sixty or seventy miles west 
of the Mississippi river, you come to light, sandy, 
hilly land ; generally covered with pitch pine ; ex- 



AND TEXAS. 147 

cepting a narrow strip on the margin of the streams ; 
so that half of Missouri, three-fourths of Arkansas, 
and half of Louisiana, are poor land, hardly fit for 
cultivation. This is not what I had supposed ; but 
from my own observations, and the information of 
travellers, I believe this to be the fact. 

We took an early start, and travelled on. The 
northern people have been accused of being very 
inquisitive ; but I am sure I would turn out the peo- 
ple here against them on a wager. As a genera! 
rule, we were inquired of, " where from" — " where 
going," &c. &c. To-day, a man, twenty rods dis- 
tant from the road, came running up, and asked us, 
where we were from. I thought this was carrying 
inquisitiveness too far ; and so I took the yankee 
privilege of answering his question by asking anoth- 
er, viz : — If it was out of mere curiosity, or for the 
sake of obtaining information beneficial to himself, 
that induced him to enquire. He said he was from 
Kentucky himself, and did not know but we might 
be from there also ; and in that case, he wished to 
inquire the news. I told him we were none of us 
from Kentucky. But this did not satisfy him ; he 
insisted upon knowing where we were from ; and 
appeared quite vexed that he could not obtain the 
information from any of us. 

We passed a number of covered waggons, gen- 
erally with four horses, loaded with goods and fam- 
ilies bound to Texas. They invariably lodge out 
doors over night. They cany their own provjs- 



148 TRIP TO THE WEST 

ions with them, and select some spot where there 
is plenty of wood and water, build up a fire, cook 
their meals, turn their horses or oxen loose to feed 
on the prairie, or in the woods, and camp down on 
the grass by the side of the fire. I saw some who 
had been thirty and forty and sixty days on the 
road ; from Missouri, Ilhnois, Indiana, &c. and said 
they had not put up at a house for a single night. 
Some of them looked quite " wearied and worn ; " 
and if they do indeed find rest at last, it must be 
confessed, that "through great tribulation," they 
enter the promised land. 

About noon to-day, we oame to the Sabine river, 
the dividing line between the United States and 
Texas. We had now travelled from Natchez two 
hundred and twenty-five miles on horseback ; and 
this, the seventh day since we started. I had now 
become used to the saddle ; and saving the muddy 
roads and miry streams which we sometimes found, 
I enjoyed the trip very w^ell. I was surprised to find 
the Sabine so small a river. I should think it was 
not more than one third as large as Red River. It 
is a deep muddy stream, and gentle current. We 
were paddled across the river by a woman, who 
was a " right smart" one, and landed at last on the 
shore of 

TEXAS. 



AND TEXAS. 149 



CHAPTER XVII. 

I had read and heard so many fine descriptions 
of Texas — its pleasant streams, beautiful praries, 
mild climate, and extensive herds of buffalo, wild 
horses and cattle, that it was with no small degree 
of enthusiasm, I set foot, for the first time, on its 
territory. I cast my eyes back for a moment on the 
United States; then turned to the "fairyland," 
with high hopes and bright anticipations. 

The Sabine has two or three miles of good bot- 
tom land on each side, heavily timbered ; but it is 
too much subject to inundation to be cultivated. — ■ 
After we passed the river bottom, we came to gen- 
tle swells, of red clayey soil, covered with oak, 
hickory, &-c. called oak openings. Sometimes we 
passed a small prairie ; and occasionally, a log house 
and a small field. Thus we passed ten miles ; and 
here, our fellow traveller, having arived to the end 
of his journey, left us. He had travelled a hun- 
dred miles with us ; was an intelligent man, well ac- 
quainted with the country, and we became too much 
interested in him, not to feel serious regret at part- 
ing. This is one of the disagreeable things in trav- 
elHng; we form acquaintances only to leave them. 

13* 



150 TRIP TO THE WEST 

We now found cotton fields, as well as corn ; 
more extensive plantations, and better houses. We 
passed two race-courses by the road side, and stop- 
ped for the night, at a very decent looking double 
log house, having a wide portico in front, and a wide 
aA^enue through the centre. Here, we found good 
accommodations. The house contained three or 
four rooms, and had about the same number of glass 
windows in it. We had for supper, venison, sweet 
potatoes, corn bread, coffee, butter and milk. Back 
of the house, I observed a small orchard of apple 
trees, the only one I found in all Texas. The trees 
looked thrifty, and had just begun to bear fruit. In 
front, near the road, was as fine a spring of good, 
clear, soft water, as I ever saw ; but it was hardly 
cold enough fOr a northern man. Here were exten- 
sive fields of cotton and corn. This planter had a 
cotton gin and press. The cotton was sent by land 
to Natchitoches ; to be transported from thence to 
New-Orleans by water. 

Six miles from this, we came to an entirely new 
village, called St. Augustine, near a stream called the 
Ayish Bayou. About two years ago, it was laid 
out ; and now it contains two large taverns, three 
stores, a court house, and ten or a dozen dwelUng 
houses. There is a good school kept here, to which 
scholars are sent from some distance. It w^ould be 
tedious, however, to relate the particulars of this, 
and the two succeeding days — it would only be the 



AND TEXAS. 151 

same story over again. Our fare was rather poor — 
the meals, better than the lodging. 

One night, we slept in a new framed house, one 
side all open to the weather ; and the other, we slept 
in a log house, the interstices between the logs not 
filled up, so that you might thrust your arm out al- 
most any where. This night we had a smart show- 
er, accompanied by a strong wind, and the rain beat 
in so liberally, I was obliged to haul my bed eight 
or ten feet to leeward. We passed quite a num- 
ber of log houses, small plantations, through oak 
openings and pine plains, and, at length, came to 
the ancient town of Nacogdoches. 

I could not but smile at the odd and grotesque 
appearance of Nacogdoches, as I entered the prin- 
cipal street of the town. In by-gone days, the 
Spaniards built a town of log houses ; generally 
having the logs standing perpendicular at the sides 
and ends, and the space between them filled with 
mud ; with chimneys made of the same materials. 
These look old and woe-begone. In modern times, 
the Americans have erected a number of elegant, 
framed houses, well finished and painted white ; and 
these are scattered along among these ancient hov- 
els. The contrast is very striking, and somewhat 
ludicrous. Before me, stood an ancient Roman 
Catholic church, built in true Spanish style, with 
perpendicular logs and mud ; now falling to decay, 
and presenting to the eye a hideous mass of ruins. 



152 TRIP TO THE WEST 

The town stands on a beautiful plain ; having a 
small stream of water on each side ; is very healthy ; 
and when American industry shall have removed 
these dark spots from its surface, will be a most de- 
sirable place in which to reside. It has two public 
houses ; and the one we put up at, had very respect- 
able accommodations. There are a number of stores, 
which carry on a brisk trade with the country peo- 
ple and Indians. The chief article the Indians have 
to sell is deer pelts ; and in the course of the year, 
they bring in a large number. These are done up 
in bales, and sent by land to the United States. — 
These skins are bought of the Indians by weight, 
and, I was told, the average amount was about fifty 
cents apiece. I observed a number of Indians in 
town on horseback ; and this is the general mode of 
travelling for all the western and southern Indians. 

Nacogdoches is the head quarters of the "Gal- 
veston Bay and Texas Land Company." The 
lands of this Company embrace three grants ; that 
of Xavala, Burnet and Vehlein, and are bounded on 
the northeast by the Sabine River ; on the north- 
west by a small river called the St. Jacinta ; on the 
south by the gulf of Mexico — about one hundred 
and seventy miles in width, and running northwest 
nearly three hundred ; equal to fifty-one thousand 
square miles. I shall now continue my journal, 
and give hereafter a description of this Company's 
lands in my general view of Texas. 



AND TEXAS. 153 

While at this place, I frequently saw Maj. Nixon, 
the agent of the Company for giving titles to the 
grants. He is quite an agreeable and intelligent 
man, and very readily gave me all the information 
respecting the country that I requested. No more 
than a league of land is granted to foreigners ; but 
to the Spaniards, a number of leagues are frequent- 
ly given. The Spaniards, however, place but little 
value upon land. They sometimes have large flocks 
of cattle and horses ; but are too indolent to culti- 
vate the soil. Quite a number of them reside at 
Nacogdoches ; some very respectable families ; but 
a good many are poor and indolent. They are of 
a darker complexion than the Americans, and are 
readily designated at first sight. 

An instance of the little value placed upon land 
was stated to me while here. An American had a 
fine looking dog that a Spaniard took a fancy to ; 
he asked the price and was told a hundred dollars. 
The Spaniard replied, he had no money, but would 
give him a scrip for four leagues of land I The 
bargain was immediately closed ; and the land could 
now be sold for ,f 10,000. Truly, the old adage, 
" dog cheap, ^^ ought to be reversed. 

Immediately after leaving the town, we came into 
pine woods again ; to all appearance, the same we 
had already passed over — rolling, sandy soil ; the 
trees straight and tall, but standing so far apart, that 
a carriage might go almost anywhere among them. 
The grass erew beneath them, and we could see a 



154 TRIP TO THE WEST 

great distance as we passed along. And thus it con- 
tinued, for about twenty miles, with hardly a house 
on the way. I thought, we never should have done 
with pine woods. We had travelled about three 
hundred miles from Natchez ; and two-thirds of the 
way had been pine woods ; and here, they made 
their appearance again. To ride a short distance 
in them, is not unpleasant ; but to continue on, day 
after day, is too monotonous — there is no change of 
scenery. 

In twenty miles, we came to an elegant house, 
painted white, a large portico in front ; a neat pal- 
ing round the yard, and large fields beside the road. 
A saw and grist mill were building on a small stream, 
about a mile from the house. We passed a small 
river over a bridge, having spht rails for a covering, 
instead of plank, and through pine woods, oak 
woods and small prairies, and put up at a house 
near the bank of the river Neches, forty miles from 
Nacogdoches. 

By the side of the road near his house, I saw a 
race-course, and the gentleman told me there were 
frequent races on it. He had himself won twelve 
hundred dollars on a bet, a short time before. His 
house was made of hewn logs and clapboarded, 
having three rooms in it, but as usual in this coun- 
try, no windows. We had our common fare, beef, 
corn bread and coffee. 

On a large prairie in front of his house, I saw 
two Indian mounds, and as 1 had a little leisure be- 



AND TEXAS. 155 

fore breakfast, I went out to examine them. I had 
seen many of the Indian mounds in the western 
States and Louisiana ; and these were similar to 
them. The largest one was about twenty feet high 
and ten in diameter. I was puzzled to find where 
the dirt was taken from to make them, as the ground 
was a perfect level a long distance around ; but my 
host showed me the spot about half a mile distant, 
and from the size of the excavation, I thought he 
was right. No reason can be given, however, why 
the dirt was carried to such a distance. 

Throughout the western and southern country, 
are found mounds of earth of different sizes, shapes 
and heights — some, of a conical form ; others, of 
an oblong shape ; and occasionally, much resembling 
fortifications. They are first seen along the southern 
shore of Lake Erie ; they increase in number and 
size in Ohio, Indiana and Illinois ; are scattered 
over the Mississippi Valley ; and are often found on 
the plains of Texas, and along the Gulf of Mexico. 
They are generally found on level prairies, or on 
rich and level woodland, and near lakes, ponds, or 
streams of navigable water. A very interesting es- 
say might be written upon these Indian Mounds; 
but I shall notice only some of the most remarka- 
ble. 

The largest mound in the state of Ohio, is on the 
level bottom land of Grave Creek, near its entrance 
into the Ohio river, and fourteen miles below Wheel- 
ing. It is 350 feet in diameter at the base, sixty 



156 TRIP TO THE WEST 

feet across at the top, and seventy-five feet in height. 
The area at the top is shghtly concave, and from its 
centre, arises a stately oak, in a straight shaft, hke 
a flag-staff. One of these mounds has been entire- 
ly demolished, and upon its site, is built the town of 
Chillicothe. The town of Circle ville is principally 
laid out within the limits of two contiguous mounds 
— the one of a circular form ; the other, of an ob- 
long square. The circular mound is much the lar- 
gest, and from which, the name of the town is de- 
rived. 

In the state of Missouri, a Kttle north of St. Lou- 
is, are gigantic and interesting mounds. These 
enormous stacks of earth lift their tall heads high in 
the air, and show to advantage on approaching St. 
Louis from the upper country. 

But the most numerous group of Indian mounds, 
is found in the state of Illinois. They are situated 
on the American Bottom, and are said to exceed 
two hundred in number. The largest and most re- 
markable of these, stands near the bank of Cahokia 
creek. It is in the shape of an oblong square, is 
eight hundred yards in circumference, and ninety 
feet in height. On its south side, is an extensive 
and beautiful terrace, which was formerly cultivated 
by the monks of La Trappe as a garden. These 
monks had a monastery near the base of this mound ; 
and probably the earth could not afford a spot more 
in keeping with the doctrines they professed. Near 
them, a stately monument of by-gone ages, reared 



AND TEXAS. 157 

its tall head far above their rude dwelling — around 
them, a solitary prairie, bounded in the distance, 
either by stately trees of the forest, or perpendicu- 
lar cliffs of solid limestone. No human habitations 
were within the bounds of vision ; and it was in- 
deed a spot, sufficiently lonely and retired for those 
who chose to abstract themselves from the busy 
scenes of active life, enjoy undisturbed the solitude 
of the wilderness, and hold communion only with 
the God of Nature. 

It has often been asked, who built these mounds, 
and for what purpose were they erected ? These 
are questions of difficult solution, and, perhaps, at 
this late stage of the world, of useless discussion. 
Some have supposed them to be places of inter- 
ment ; others believe them to be sentry stations, 
upon which guards were placed to watch the move- 
ments of the enemy. Although decayed bones have 
been found in some of them, yet it is not probable 
that they were all erected simply as monuments for 
the dead. Who built them ? Their origin and 
use may never be certainly known ; but T am fully 
persuaded, the ancestors of the present race of In- 
dians did not erect them. The Indians, now upon 
the stage, know nothing about them — make no use 
of them — and build none like them. Now, if their 
ancestors built these stately mounds all over the 
country, it is utterly impossible to believe that all 
tradition would have been lost of such prominent 
monuments, that passed in review before the eyes 

14 



158 TRIP TO THE WEST 

of their nation, from day to day, and year to year. 
In addition to this, many of these mounds are of 
gigantic dimensions, and show much more labor in 
their erection, than the present race of Indians have 
ever been known to perform. The earth, of which 
they are composed, is generally brought from a dis- 
tance, and some of them must have taken a thou- 
sand men a number of months to complete them. 

We found the Neches to be quite a river ; clayey 
banks and muddy water. We saw a boat on the 
other side ; and a house half a mile distant, through 
the woods. We could not tell whether it was ford- 
able or not ; but after calling a few times for the 
ferryman, my companion concluded to plunge in. I 
thought in that case, discretion was the better part 
of valor ; so I waited to see what became of him, 
before starting myself. He had a good horse, and 
although the stream was deep, and quite a current, 
he came safely out on the other bank ; sustaining no 
other damage than being decently wet. He was 
good enough, however, to loose the boat, come over 
and take me across ; remarking that there was no 
great pleasure in fording streams like that. We 
now passed through ten miles of pine woods ; then 
prairies of a mile or so in extent, and post-oak open- 
ings. 

This was the thirtieth day of November. The 
day was warm and mild, although somewhat cloudy. 
As we were passing through the woods, it became 
quite dark. On casting my eyes on the sun, I 



AND TEXAS. 159 

found it was under an eclipse. It was here almost 
total. I thought it hardly lacked a digit of being 
entirely covered. 

We stopped at night at a small log house on the 
side of an extensive prairie. We found only a 
young woman at home. She said, she was from 
the east part of Texas, had been married only a 
week, and moved there a few days previous. Her 
husband soon returned. He had been to spend the 
day, it appeared, at a neighbor's, seven miles dis- 
tant, and left the new made bride at home alone. 
All we obtained here to eat, was meat and corn 
bread, and water to drink ; and that not very good. 
He had sixty or seventy head of cattle, twenty 
cows ; but no milk, butter, or cheese. He had 
quite a large field under cultivation, in which he 
raised corn only. He had a hired man to help 
him take care of the flocks and the field, and to 
accompany him in his hunting excursions. A num- 
ber of skins were stretched out on the sides of his 
buildings, as the trophies of his prowess and suc- 
cess ; among which, I noticed the skin of a large 
panther. In the morning, his wife went a quarter 
of a mile for water, picked up wood and built a 
fire ; and the two men looked on and did nothing. 
What young lady would not marry, if she could 
pass such a honey-moon as this ! 



160 TRIP TO THE WEST 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

The next day, we passed three houses, a number 
of prairies and post-oak openings ; but found no 
more pine woods. Immediately on this side of the 
Trinity, we passed over a low, wet prairie, four 
miles in extent ; where a horse would sink in to the 
fetlock joint ; and then, half a mile of heavy tim- 
ber. The Trinity is a large stream ; but not quite 
as large as Red River — deep, navigable, and muddy 
water. We stopped at the house of an intelligent 
farmer on the other bank of the river. Here, our 
accommodations were very good. He had a house 
of hewn logs, three rooms, no windows, a portico 
in front and rear, and an avenue through the mid- 
dle. The front yard was fenced in ; and a kitchen 
and smoke house were in the back yard. He had 
a large field cultivated with corn, and perhaps, half 
a dozen negroes. 

I here found a young man who deserved com- 
misseration. He was from Missouri. With his 
young wife and two small children, the youngest 
not quite a year old, lie started in a wagon for 
Texas. He had been two months on the road ; 
encamped out in the woods every night, although 
they had some wet and chilly weather. The fa- 



AND TEXAS. 161 

tigues of such a long journey, and the many atten- 
tions such small children required at the hands of 
the wife while on the route, were more than her 
constitution could endure. She became worn down 
almost to a skeleton ; and grew daily more enfee- 
bled ; but as they were approaching the end of the 
journey, she kept up a good heart, and exerted her- 
self to the utmost. But " tired nature" could do 
no more. She sickened and died — and left her 
husband in a distant land, with two infant children. 
Those who have endured the agony of a parting 
scene like this, although surrounded by relatives and 
friends, may form some estimate of the measure of 
pity due to him ! 

There are many hardships, perplexities and suf- 
ferings, necessarily attendant upon a removal to a 
new and distant country ; and any accident or mis- 
fortune is more severely felt, because a person has 
no chance of remedying the evil. I do think, a sin- 
gle family ought not to go to a new country alone ; 
but a number in company ; and then they can as- 
sist each other in all their hardships and trials. 

At the mouth of Red River, a gentleman, mov- 
ing on to Texas with his family, lost his pocket- 
book, containing about four hundred dollars. He 
carried it in the breast pocket of his coat ; and in 
unlading some of his goods from the steamboat, he 
stepped forward to assist, pulled off his coat, threw 
it aross the railing, and the pocket-book dropped 
out into the water and sunk. It would have swam 
14* 



162 TRIP TO THE WEST 

on the water, had it not contained three or four 
dollars in specie. Search was made for it ; but the 
stream was so deep and muddy, they were foiled in 
all their attempts to find it. This was, at such a time 
and in his situation, a severe misfortune. On the 
road, two thousand miles from the place he started 
from, and five hundred more to travel ; his family 
with him, and all his money gone. A family of his 
acquaintance happened to be in company with him, 
and through their assistance, he was enabled to pro- 
ceed. 

Another case was stated to me, more aggravat- 
ing than this, because it was not the effect of acci- 
dent but of knavery. A gentleman, moving from 
Michigan to Texas, brought down in the boat a val- 
uable horse worth three hundred dollars. On 
board, he became acquainted with a young man, 
who wished employment, and he hired him. When 
they arrived at the mouth of Red River, he con- 
cluded to send his horse by the young man across 
the country by land, and he and his family would 
go round by water. He, accordingly, equipped the 
horse with a new, elegant saddle, bridle, martingale 
and saddle bags ; and supplied the young man with 
a good greatcoat, and twenty dollars in money, and 
started him off. And that was the last time he saw 
man, horse or equippage ! He incidentally heard, 
that a man answering his description, gambled away 
a horse and equippage at Alexandria. 



AND TEXAS. 163 

For ten miles after leaving Trinity river, we pass- 
ed over some most beautiful rolling prairies. Al- 
though it was December, yet the air was mild and 
serene, and the grass as green as in June. These 
prairies much resemble those of Illinois ; and on 
.some of them, we saw large herds of cattle feeding. 
We passed some miry swamps and deep muddy 
streams. The most disagreeable part of the whole 
trip, was the fording of streams. The banks were 
generally steep down into the water ; and so slip- 
pery, we had sometimes to dismount, hold on to a 
tree, and let the horse slide down ; then pull the 
horse beside us, mount him in the water, and ride 
across. I would sometimes take my saddle bags 
off, send my horse over by himself, and find a tree 
or a log on which to pass myself. The water was 
very muddy, so that we could riot see the bottom, 
or form hardly any idea how deep it might be, un- 
til we forded. One stream was a very bad one. 
There were logs in the bottom, embedded in the 
mud about the middle of the river ; and when our 
horses passed them, they struck into a channel 
where the water was about two feet deeper ; their 
heads were suddenly plunged under water, and we 
came very near being thrown into the stream. 
Among the trees in the swamps, I noticed the red 
cedar, to-day, for the first time. It grows to quite 
a large tree, and is very good timber for building, 
boards, posts, &c. 



164 TRIP TO THE WEST 

To-day, we found by the side of the path a 
number of petrified limbs of trees ; and in one 
place, there was a log about a foot in diameter, 
turned into stone. We broke off some pieces 
which plainly showed the grains of wood ; and on 
one side the bark remained and was petrified also. 
It might probably be manufactured into good 
hones, although it was coarser grained, and of a 
lighter shade, than those usually found at our stores. 

We passed only two houses this day, and put 
up for the night at a miserable log house occupied 
by a widow woman. She had a large stock of fine 
looking cattle, but no milk. Our fare was not of 
the best kind, although the old lady tried to ac- 
commodate us as well as she could. 

There are few mills of any kind in the whole 
country. The corn is ground in a steel mill, like 
a coffee mill, although much larger, and having a 
crank on each side. This is commonly nailed to a 
tree before the door. The corn is often left stand- 
ing in the field, and gathered only as fast as they 
wish to use it. It used to amuse me, when we 
rode up to a house at night, and called for a meal, 
to hear the woman sing out to a boy, " Run to the 
field and bring two or three ears of corn — I want 
to make some bread for the gentlemen's supper." 
So we had to wait until the corn w^as gathered, 
ground, kneaded and baked, before we could have 
bread to eat. I suppose this is the true method 
of " living from hand to mouth." 



AND TEXAS. 165 

We took an early start next morning, and after 
passing swamps, streams and woods, came out into 
a fine prairie country. Our path led over the top 
of one, somewhat elevated above the general level 
of the country, and from which we could see many 
miles all around. It was a prospect too grand and 
imposing to be adequately described. 

As we passed along by the side of an extensive 
prairie, we saw two Indians horseback, on an eleva- 
ted spot, about half a mile distant, with guns in 
their hands, and looking at the country beyond 
them. On seeing us, they wheeled their horses and 
came at full speed down upon us. We were a lit- 
tle startled at first ; but they halted within a few 
rods of us, stared a moment, and then civilly passed 
the time of day, and enquired in broken English, 
the distance to a house on the road we had come. 
I never was an enthusiastic admirer of the Indian 
character. They may have done some noble deeds 
of daring, and performed some generous acts of dis- 
interested friendship ; but they possess and practice 
the art of deception so well, that no one can know, 
with any degree of certainty, when these acts may 
occur. When I see Indians approaching, I hardly 
know whether it is for good or for evil ; and there- 
fore, never feel entirely at ease in their society. 

The Romans, in the days of their prosperity, pri- 
ded themselves in being called a Roman citizen; 
and this was generally, a sufficient protection from 
depredation and insult, when travelling among the 



166 TRIP TO THE WEST 

more barbarous nations around them. Like the 
Romans, I felt not a httle pleasure in the thought, 
that I was an American citizen, and that this was 
a protection from outrage and insult in the presence 
of the savage Indian. Since my return, I have seen 
an account of twenty Polanders, while on their way 
from New-Orleans to Mexico, who were attacked by 
the Indians in Texas, and all killed except one, who 
was fortunate enough to escape and tell the story. 
Had not the Indians readily discovered by our per- 
sonal appearance, that we w^ere American citizens, 
we might have shared the same fate. 

We passed a muddy swamp, in many places the 
water standing in the road a foot or two in depth ; 
densely covered with timber, and four miles in ex- 
tent. As we emerged from this, we came upon the 
bank of the Brazos river, at Hall's ferry. This is a 
stream of the size and complexion of Red River. 
In crossing in a boat, w^e found a strong current. 
On the other side there is a high bank on which a 
town has been laid out ; but now contains only 
three dwelling houses and one store. Here we 
stayed over night. Late in the afternoon, a Span- 
ish trader arrived and put up for the night. He 
had two men, five mules and one horse and wagon 
with him. His goods were bought at Natchitoches, 
and he was transporting them to St. Antonio in the 
interior of Texas. They were made up into con- 
venient bundles, hung across the mules' backs and 
stowed in the wagon. They were all armed with 



AND TEXAS. 167 

guns ; and the trader himself had a pistol at each 
side. He could not well talk English and we con- 
versed but little with him. He had a strong dislike 
to the Indians, and w^as afraid of being robbed by 
them. Of this ill-will, the Indians have their full 
share. In hunting parties composed of both Amer- 
icans and Spaniards, when attacked by the Indians 
in their excursions along the Rocky Mountains, they 
have been known to spare the Americans, when they 
have killed all the Spaniards. 

The next day's ride was through a most beauti- 
ful open prairie country. We crossed some small 
streams, skirted with timber and small groves on the 
highland ; but generally, we found high, rolling 
prairie. The live-oak made its appearance to-day. 
This is an evergreen and a beautiful tree. We saw 
them growing in an open prairie, sometimes, one 
standing by itself, about the size, and at a distance, 
of the appearance of the northern apple tree. 

On a fine high prairie, w^e observed quite a num- 
ber of elegant houses, a store, a tavern, &c. and 
some fine farms. This is called Cole's Settlement ; 
and from the beautiful scenery around, and the re- 
spectable appearance of the inhabitants, I inferred 
that it is a desirable neighborhood. 

We stopped for the night at a house half way 
between the Brazos and Colorado rivers ; being thir- 
ty-five miles from each. A few years ago, a town 
was lotted out in this place, but still it shows only 
one decent farm house. Here is a grist mill turned by 



168 TRIP TO THE WEST 

horses, and does a good deal of business ; and pro- 
fitable too, for the rule is to take one sixth part for 
toll. In the neighborhood, I saw a very good look- 
ing house, built of limestone. 

From this place to the Colorado river, we passed 
only two houses ; a distance of thirty-five miles ; 
and the complexion of the country was similar in 
all respects to that of the day before. At a very 
decent farm house on an extensive prairie, by the 
side of the river, we put up for the night ; and re- 
mained here and in the neighborhood, a number of 
the succeeding days. 

And now from this central position, I propose to 
take a more general view of the country. I stayed 
more than a month in Texas, traversed the country 
in various directions, conversed with the inhabitants, 
and gained what information I could within that 
time. I feel therefore, somewhat quahfied to 
speak of the country. And this I shall do fear- 
lessly ; yet I hope, in sincerity and in truth. I am 
aware that many articles have been written concern- 
ing this country, of various import and meaning ; 
but I shall speak for myself only, without reference 
to others. I do not propose to write its geography 
or history. Had I the means and ability accurate- 
ly to do this, the limits of this work would not al- 
low of it. I only propose to give the information 
I obtained from inspection, examination and enqui- 
ry, in a concise form and tangible shape. 



AND TEXAS. 169 



CHAPTER XIX. 



GENERAL VIEW OF TEXAS. 

From whatever point you approach Texas, its as- 
pect is unfavorable. If it be by sea, you are met 
by a low, sandy beach and a marshy, flat country, 
as far as the eye can reach. If by land, through 
Louisiana and Red River, its first appearance is that 
of a poor country of hilly land, chiefly covered with 
wood, and presenting to the eye a weak soil, alter- 
nately of sand and of clay. But when you pass 
the border towards the interior, the scene becomes 
entirely changed. You behold a beautiful country 
of rich soil, rounded by the hand of nature into the 
most fanciful forms, covered with eternal verdure, 
and begirt with forests of stately trees. Earth may 
not afford a more beautiful prospect than is obtain- 
ed from the summit of an elevated prairie. On 
such a spot I have stood, and gazed with admiration. 
The scene extends all around as far as the eye can 
reach, and presents the varied aspect of wood land 
and lawn, hke sunshine and shade. Its appearance 
is so much that of a country nicely cultivated by the 
hand of man, that one can hardly believe himself to 
be in an uninhabited region ; but he looks in vain, 

15 



170 TRIP TO THE WEST 

to catch a glimpse of the husbandman's cottage, and 
his herds of cattle feeding on the green fields. The 
din of human industry and civilized life strikes not 
his ear, and the unwelcome truth is forced upon 
him at last, that he is only in the solitude of the 
wilderness ; and the scene before him, with all its 
beauties, is left '' to waste its sweetness on the de- 
sert air !" 

The scenes of Texas have so much of fascination 
about them, that one is disinclined to come down 
to the details of a common-place description of the 
country. But the whole truth must be told. The 
public have a right, and in fairness ought to know, 
the true state of the case. The emigrant cannot 
live on air, or by admiring the beauties of the coun- 
try. It is of importance to him to know, what fa- 
cilities the country offers, for obtaining the neces- 
saries and conveniencies of hfe ; and what the pros- 
pect may be of enjoying them, when obtained. 

In the first place, I shall strike off from the list 
of the resources of the country, " the immense 
herds of buffalo and wild horses." They are often 
paraded in the many published descriptions of Tex- 
as, as a most prominent feature in the bright picture 
exhibited ; and as one of the many inducements to 
the emigrants to remove thither. But they are no 
sort of benefit to the settler at all. They generally 
keep ahead of population, some small herds only 
are ever seen near the settlements ; and there is not 
inducement enousjh for the husbandman to leave 



AND TEXAS. 



173 



his farm, and go far into the interior, to catch the 
wild horse and kill the buffalo, among tribes of hos- 
tile Indians ; as the prospect of gain would not 
equal the hardship, risk and expense. The wild 
horse is an animal hard to catch ; and when caught, 
it is difficult and troublesome to tame him, and ren- 
der him gentle and kind in harness and under the 
saddle. It would be as well for the farmer if the 
fact of their existence were not known ; as it is ea- 
sier to raise the animal in this country of ever-green 
pasture, than to catch and tame the wild one. There 
is one point of view, in which a knowledge of the 
existence of these animals may be of some impor- 
tance to the emigrant ; it is proof positive of the 
natural luxuriance of the soil, and of the mildness 
of the chmate. 

The wild horses are called by the Spaniards, inus- 
tangs. I saw some small herds of them prancing 
at random over the plains. They are quite wild, 
you can seldom approach very near them. They 
are of various colors and of rather smaller size than 
the American horse. The Spaniards are fond of 
good horses, and are good horsemen. Some of them 
make a business of catching and breaking the mus- 
tangs. This is done by building a fence in the 
shape of a harrow, with a strong pen at the small 
end, and driving them into it ; or mounting a fleet 
horse, get as near as they can unperceived, then start 
after them at full speed, throw a rope with a slip- 
noose at one end, and the other fastened to the sad- 
15* 



174 TRIP TO THE WEST 

die, around the neck, haul out at right angles with 
their course, and choke them down. When caught, 
they put the bridle on, take them into a large, soft 
prairie, mount them at once, flog them with the 
greenhide, and let them plunge and rear until they 
become fatigued and subdued. After undergoing a 
few more operations of this kind, they are deemed 
^' fit for use." They are sold at various prices, from 
six to twelve dollars ; but unless they are caught 
when young, they never become gentle as other 
horses. 

Texas appears like the State of Illinois. To the 
southward and westward of Trinity river, it is gen- 
erally an open prairie country. All the streams 
have more or less bottom land, covered with a dense 
forest of timber ; and occasionally, a grove of post 
oak openings will be found on the moist high land. 
The soil in these bottoms is very rich, but some of 
them are too wet, or too subject to be overflowed 
to admit of cultivation. 

A strip of land, bordering on the bays and sea 
coast, and sixty or seventy miles in width, is flat, 
generally approaching to a dead level, in the spring 
and fall very wet, and sometimes impassable. Be- 
yond this, comes the high, dry, rolling country, hav- 
ing no swamps except immediately on the borders 
of the rivers. " The Galveston Bay and Texas 
Land Company" have a good deal of good land, in 
pleasant and healthy situations ; and much of it, 
not yet settled ; but they have also a good deal of 



AND TEXAS. 175 

poor land. In their grant, are large tracts of pine 
woods and post-oak plains ; among which, are found 
some spots of good land, but generally, it is of a 
weak and sandy soil. The pine woods are not 
without their use. Their resinous qualities give a 
salubrity to the air about them, and thereby render 
a situation in their neighborhood healthy ; and the 
trees themselves furnish an inexhaustible supply of 
the first rate of timber. On the Sabine and Gal- 
veston Bays, there are large prairies of good land, 
but low and flat ;, in the region of Nacogdoches, are 
small prairies, large tracts of wood, good soil of red 
clay, black marie, sandy land, and all the varieties 
of soil imaginable. Higher up in the country, there 
are alternately prairies and woodland, and an ex- 
cellent soil. This Company's grant lies contiguous 
to the United States, and except on the bay, is as 
healthy as any part of the country ; but it cannot 
be called the most pleasant and beautiful portion of 
Texas. 

The prairies are all burnt over twice a year — in 
mid-summer, and about the first of winter. Im- 
mediately after the burning, the grass springs up 
again ; so that there is an abundant supply all the 
year round. No country in the world can be com- 
pared to this, in the ease and facility of raising 
stock. All the herdsman has to do, is to look after 
them, so they may not stray away, and some portion 
of the year, yard them to prevent their growing 
wild. The prairie grass is of a peculiar species, un- 



176 TRIP TO THE WEST 

like any thing we have at the north ; but it is of so 
nutricious a quahty, that it keeps the cattle fat, all 
the year round. They grow large and handsome. 
I never saw better looking herds in my life. The 
horse does equally as well on grass, but if worked 
hard, requires some grain. Hogs keep in good flesh 
all the year ; and in autumn, when the nuts fall 
from the trees, grow fat. Horses, cattle and hogs 
can, therefore, be kept in this country without any 
more trouble than merely looking after them to pre- 
vent their straying away. 

And then, there is plenty of game. First in the 
list, is the deer. I hardly supposed there were as 
many deer on the continent, as I saw in Texas. — • 
They were continually crossing my path, or were 
seen in flocks feeding on the prairies. I recollect 
that from an elevated spot, I counted five flocks of 
deer in sight at the same time ! In some parts of 
the country, a man may about as certainly kill a 
deer if he choose, as a northern farmer can kill a 
sheep from his flock. Their meat is excellent, and 
their skins valuable. 

Deer-hunting is not very systematically practised 
here, as it is in some parts of the world. Indeed, 
they are so plenty, that it does not require much 
method, or concert of action among a number of 
individuals to kill them. The deer is a gregarious 
animal. You never find one alone, unless it be ac- 
cidentally strayed away from the flock. Sometimes 
a number of hunters resort to a favorite haunt of 




fc'li&sS 



AND TEXAS. 179 

the deer, and while a part arouse them with the dogg 
in their retreat, and cause them to flee, others will 
remain in ambush, near their usual crossing places 
at the streams and swamps, and shoot them as they 
pass. In the night they are decoyed by fire and 
killed. A hunter fixes a blazing torch in his hat, 
or has another person to carry one just before him ; 
the deer will stand gazing at the light while he ap- 
proaches, and by the brilliancy of their eyes and 
space between them, calculates his distance and 
takes his deadly aim. He minst take especial care, 
however, that the shadow of a tre^ or of any thing 
else does not fall upon the deer ; for in that event 
he starts and is ofl^" in a moment. 

Then there are the bear, Mexican hog, wild geese, 
rabbits, and a great variety of ducks. The pra»;f» 
hen is not so plenty here as in Illinois. An emi- 
grant, may, therefore, easily supply himself with 
meat. All he has to do is " to kill and eat." 

Let us now glance at the soil, and see what that 
will produce. This subject I attended to, somewhat 
critically. It will produce cotton, sugar cane, In- 
dian corn, rye, barley, oats, rice, buckwheat, peas^ 
beans, sweet potatoes and all common garden veg- 
etables. The cabbage does not form a compact 
head as it does at the north. Wheat will not grow 
in this country. The stalk will run up rank, but 
the ear will not fill with plump kernels. Last De- 
cember, while I was there, flour sold on the river 
Brazos, for ten dollars a barrel ; and in the interior^ 



ISO TRIP TO THE WEST 

it sold for fourteen. Corn grows well, and is quite 
a sure crop when planted early — about the first of 
February. I saw a very good crop which had been 
planted in June. 

I found one man, who, with the aid of a boy ten 
years old, raised and gathered fifteen hundred bush- 
els of corn. Perhaps I am severely taxing the cre- 
dulity of my readers ; but if there be any reliance 
on human testimony, the fact is as I have stated. 
/ d when it is considered that the ground is only 
ploughed, a small portion, if any, hoed at all, and 
then it gets ripe early, and he can gather it at his 
leisure th© statement may not appear at all incred- 
ible. Tobacco will grow, but it has too thin a leaf 
to be valuable. 

J>at it is emphatically a cotton country. It pro- 
duces a larger quantity to the acre, and of a better 
quality than any portion of the United States — not 
excepting the bottom lands on Red River. This is 
my belief from an examination of the growing crop 
and gathered cotton. And I found this to be an 
admitted fact by the most experienced cotton grow- 
ers. 

The following is as perfect a list of the forest 
trees, shrubs, vines, &c., as I can make — to wit: — 
Red, black, white, willow, post and live oaks ; pine, 
cedar, cotton-wood, mulberry, hickory, ash, elm, cy- 
press, box-wood, elder, dog-wood, ^valnut, pecan, 
moscheto — a species of locust, holly, haws, hack- 
berry, magnolia, chincopin, wild peach, suple jack, 



AND TEXAS. 181 

cane-brake, palmetto, various kinds of grape vines, 
creeper, rushes, Spanish-moss, prairie grass, and a 
great variety of flowers. The Uve oak, magnolia, 
holly, pine and cedar are evergreens. 

The Spanish moss, so profusely hanging on all 
tlie trees near streams of water, gives them an an- 
tique and venerable appearance. It is of a silver 
grey color ; and, if trees may be compared with 
men, they appear like the long grey bearded sages 
of the antedeluvian world. When the tree dies, 
the moss soon withers, and becomes dry. I uscU 
to amuse myself by setting fire to the dry moss in 
the night. It burnt like tinder, and would some- 
times throw a grand column of flame a hundred 
and fifty feet into the air, and brilliantly illuminate 
the scene, a great distance around. 

Of fruit trees, I saw only the peach, the fig and 
the orange trees ; excepting one small cluster of 
apple trees. I think it is too warm throughout the 
year for the apple tree to produce much fruit ; but 
the others will become abundant. 

As to the health of the country, the fact seems 
to be, that in all the low country, and on the streams 
of water, the inhabitants are more or less aflflicted 
with the fever and ague. It much resembles Illi- 
nois in this particular, as well as in many others. 
In other situations, I believe it is as healthy as any 
portion of the United States. 

The climate is fine ; the air, generally clear and 
salubrious. It is neither so hot in the summer, or 
16 



182 TRIP TO THE WEST 

SO cold in the winter, as it is in New-England. 
The country lies between the Gulf of Mexico and 
the snow-capped Cordillera mountains, so that it is 
fanned by a refreshing breeze, which ever way the 
wind may blow. Sometimes, in winter, the north- 
west wind sweeps over the plain, strong and keen ; 
and the thin-clad southerner sensibly feels its ef- 
fects upon his system ; and I was informed, instan- 
ces had been known of their being chilled to death, 
when obliged to encamp out in the open air without 
a fire. It is sometimes^ cold enough to make thin 
ice ; but, generally, it is mild and pleasant ail win- 
ter. The hottest days of summer, are not as warm 
and oppressive, as we find them at the North. In- 
dividuals originally from Maine and New-Hampshire, 
said they had found no night so warm, that it was 
disagreeable to sleep under a woollen blanket. 



CHAPTER XX. 

The rivers are navigable to some extent, whether 
great or small. The following are the names of the 
principal, to wit : — Sabine, Ayish Bayou, Atoyac, 
Angelina, Neches, Trinity, St. Jacinta, Buffalo Bay- 
ou, Navasota, Brazos, Bernard, Canebrake, Coiora- 



AND TEXAS. 183 

do, Navedad, La Baca, Guadalupe, San xlntonio, 
Aransaso, Neuces and Rio Grande or Rio del Norte. 
Tlie streams are all muddy and unpleasant, until 
you reach the Colorado ; this, and those to the south 
are, generally, clear and beautiful. About ten miles 
from the mouth of the Colorado, a raft two miles in 
extent, obstructs the navigation ; when that is re- 
moved, boats may go some distance into the coun- 
try. The Brazos is navigable at high water, to the 
falls, about two hundred and fifty miles from its 
mouth. A steamboat is now running upon it, as 
high up as St. Felipe, over a hundred miles. 

The Sabine, Neches and Trinity are respectively 
three hundred and fifty, three hundred, and four 
hundred and ten miles in length, and are navigable 
some distance into the country for a considerable 
portion of the year. The San Bernard is navigable 
sixty miles. It has about four feet of water on the 
bar at its mouth. The Colorado rises in the high 
prairies near the mountains, pursues quite a direct 
course six hundred miles and falls into Metagorda 
Bay. Above the raft, which is situated ten or 
twelve miles above its mouth, it is navigable three 
hundred miles. It has as strong a current as that 
of the Mississippi. 

But the Rio del Norte is much the largest and 
longest river in this region. It rises high up among 
the mountains, and is estimated to be seventeen 
hundred miles in length. For two thirds of its 
course it runs nearly south ; it then changes to the 



184 TRIP TO THE WEST 

southeast, and empties into the Gulf of MexicO; near 
the southern boundary of Texas. It has been as- 
cended by a steamboat two hundred miles to Lo- 
redo ; and it is stated by those acquainted with the 
stream, that it is navigable five hundred miles fur 
ther. 

Texas has a seacoast of three hundred and fifty 
miles ; and in a commercial point of view is fiwor- 
ably situated. Its many navigable streams afford 
great facilities for transporting the rich products of 
its luxuriant soil to the United States and the rest of 
the world. It will shortly be settled, its rich lands 
will become valuable, and it will soon be a great 
and powerful state. 

Mill seats are not plenty. Although the streams 
run with a lively current, yet there are not many 
falls suitable for mills ; especially in the lower part 
of the territory. On the sides of the streams, are 
occasionally found ledges of hmestone ; but none 
of any kind are seen scattered over the country. — 
The prairies are free from rocks, brambles, bushes, 
and every thing except grass. They look like a 
finely cultivated old field, well set in grass ; some- 
times flat, sometimes rolling, but invariably having 
a surface entirely smooth and unbroken. A car- 
riage can run any where over them. Clay is found 
all over the country, of an excellent quaUty for 
brick. In some places, coal and iron ore are said 
to have been discovered. 



AND TEXAS. 185 

Such are the situation and resources of the coun- 
try. Let us now look, for a moment, at the inhabi- 
tants, and see how they are improved. The Span- 
iards are not ah agricultural people. They are 
more fond of raising stock, than cultivating the 
land. They are also a very social people, and fond 
of society. They are seldom found on farms alone, 
and at a distance from neighbors. They formed some 
small villages in Texas, and left the remainder of the 
country entirely unsettled. Some ten years ago, 
the system of grants commenced ; allowing an indi- 
vidual, under certain regulations, to introduce and 
colonize foreigners. There are now thirteen of 
these Grants, including a large portion of Texas, to 
wit : Zavala, Burnet and Vehlein — now formed in- 
to the Galveston Bay company — Austin's, Milam's, 
Robertson's, Cameron's, Dewitt's, De Leon's, Feli- 
sola's, McMullen's and McGloin's, Powers' and 
Beal's. On all these Grants, more or less settle- 
ments have been made, and therefore, the popula- 
tion is scattered over an extent of country out of 
all proportion to their numbers. The large tract 
granted to each individual, tends to the same result. 
In riding through regions called settled, a person 
may not find a house in thirty or forty miles ; but 
generally from ten to twenty. I believe there are 
from forty to fifty thousand inhabitants in Texas ; 
and a large proportion of them are Americans. A 
person may travel all day ; and day after day, and 

16* 



186 TRIP TO THE WEST 

find Americans only. He can hardly make him- 
self believe that he is not still in the United States. 

The exports of Texas are cotton, live-stock and 
peltries. The cotton and peltries are sent either by 
Natchitoches, or by shipping through the Gulf of 
Mexico, to New-Orleans. The live-stock — cattle, 
horses and mules, are driven by land across the coun- 
try to Natchez or New-Orleans. The cost of dri- 
ving is trifling. Plenty of grass is found all the way 
for the stock ; and the drivers carry their provis- 
ions, shoot game, &c. and camp down near wood 
and water by the side of a fire, and cook their meals. 

In this manner, a fellow traveller and myself 
camped out two or three nights. It was quite a 
novelty to me to sleep in the open air ; but the peo- 
ple here think nothing of it. The wolves made 
ratJicr too much noise, for me to sleep quietly. One 
night, they awaked me out of a sound sleep, by 
their discordant yells; I jumped up, dashed a club 
or two at them, and ofl^ they went over the prairies. 
Our provisions were what they sought, I presume, 
and not us. 

The inhabitants are, many of them, what our 
northern people would call rather indolent. Occa- 
sionally, I found a good farm, large plantation and 
fine herds of cattle, and all the comforts of life with- 
in their dwellings ; but more generally, the traveller 
only finds the log house, built in an open, rude man- 
ner, with only one room, where he and the family 
lodge together ; and perhaps only corn-bread, meat 



AND TEXAS, 187 

and sweet potatoes to eat. I called at some places 
where they had twenty or thhty cows, and could 
get neither butter, cheese, or milk. They let the 
calves run with the cows, and seldom milk them at 
all. I did not find butter at half of the places 
where I called ; and obtained cheese only once in 
Texas. At only three places I found wheat bread. 

Although the climate is suitable to the produc- 
tion of Indian corn, yet it is not cultivated to any 
extent. The reason is, stock is raised with less 
trouble, and cotton is thought to be a more profita- 
ble crop. There is hardly enough corn raised for 
the consumption of the inhabitants; it, therefore, 
bears a high price. At St. Felipe, it was a dollar a 
bushel ; and at Velasco on the mouth of the Brazos 
river, I saw a bushel of shelled corn sold for two 
dollars ! 

Thus it is; man seems disinclined to "till the 
ground," and by " the sweat of his face," to obtain 
his bread. It often happens, where the earth pro- 
duces in abundance with little labor, that httle is in- 
diflferently performed, so that all the comforts and 
conveniences of life are less enjoyed, than in more 
sterile soils, and unpropitious climes. Man will 
"'mid flowing vineyards die of thirst." Where na- 
ture has done almost all, and scattered her favors 
without stint, man will not stretch forth his hand, 
and gather her rich bounties. It is not universally 
so. There are many exceptions to this in Texas. 
In many instances, the comforts of life are enjoyed 



188 TRIP TO THE WEST 

there lo perfection. Man may not be censured, for 
not performing severe bodily labor, if he can well 
provide for himself and tliose dependent upon him, 
without it ; but life could not have been given, to be 
spent in listless idleness. A vast field of usefulness 
is open to the active man ; and he may do much 
good in his day and generation, other than toil for 
gain. 

But another inducement is held out to the emi- 
grant to settle in Texas, besides the beauty of the 
country and productiveness of the soil. It is the 
cheapness of the land. This is no small consider- 
ation. A man with a family obtains a Spanish league 
of land, amounting to four thousand four hundred 
and twenty-eight English acres, by paying the ex- 
pense of surveying it, office fees, &c. These ex- 
penses amount to one hundred and eleven dollars, 
with the addition of thirty dollars to the government. 
So that a man with a fam.ily has four thousand four 
hundred and twenty-eight acres of land for the small 
sum of one hundred and forty-one dollars. He 
must make application to an officer, called an em- 
pressario, and obtain his consent ; which is given in 
the form of a certificate, stating the name of the 
family and the quantity of land allowed. This cer- 
tificate is presented to another officer, called a com- 
missioner, who orders a survey ; and when com- 
pleted, makes a deed from the government to the 
emigrant. The only condition is, that the land 
shall be settled upon, within a limited time. The 



AND TEXAS, 189 

emigrant may make his own selection out of any 
lands, not previously granted. A single man ob- 
tains one quarter of that quantity^ with the privi- 
lege of having three quarters more, when he is mar- 
ried. And provision is made, that a foreigner, 
marrying a Mexican woman, may have a league and 
one tiiird. These terms are, certainly, very liberal. 
A man here obtains good land, at a cheaper rate, 
than in any other part of the world. 

But the government have lately adopted another 
method of disposing of their land. A regular land 
law has been enacted, and various offices have been 
established for the sale of all the vacant land in the 
province. A person desirous of purchasing public 
land, goes to the land office in the district where the 
land is situated, files a petition for a sale, and ob- 
tains an order for a survey. This land is laid off 
into what is called labors of one hundred and seven- 
ty-seven acres each, and an individual may purchase 
as many labors as he pleases, up to two hundred 
and seventy-five, which is about equal to fifty thou- 
sand English acres. The minimum price is fixed 
at ten dollars per labor, the purchaser paying the 
expense of surveying in addition. One third of the 
purchase money is payable at the time of sale ; the 
remainder in two equal annual instalments ; and the 
new settlers are exempt from the payment of taxes 
for the term of ten years. 

But Texas has some evils, which will be deemed 
greater or less, according to the particular section of 



190 TRIP TO THE WEST 

the country the emigrant may happen to come from. 
But still, they ought in fairness to be stated, that all 
may judge for themselves. And in the first place 
there are three kinds of venomous snakes — 'the great 
rattlesnake, the moccason snake, and the prairie rat- 
tlesnake. The large rattlesnake is not very plenty, 
and is seldom seen far out in the open prairie. A 
gentleman who had lived in the country ten years 
told me he had killed only tvv'o in the time. The 
moccason snake, deemed as poisonous as the rattle- 
snake, seems to be more plenty; but they are not 
found except in or near wet, marshy land. A gen- 
tleman told me, he had a small marsh near his house 
which seemed to be a haunt for them, as occasion- 
ally he found some near it, and in his door yard. 
He set half a dozen of his servants to cut down the 
weeds, and dig a ditch to drain off the water ; and 
in one day they killed forty-three moccason snakes ; 
and he pleasantly added, it was not a very good 
snake day neither. Perhaps this will be set down 
as another " snake story ;" but my authority is Mr. 
Elisha Roberts, living on the main road, five miles 
north of St. Augustine ; a very respectable man as 
I was informed. The prairie rattlesnake is a small 
one, about a foot in length, similar to that of Illi- 
nois. I saw only one in all my wanderings through 
the country. There are other snakes, not venomous, 
such as the coach-whip snake, the large black snake, 
which is here called the ^' chicken snake," because 
it sometimes robs hen's nests ; the glass snake. 



AND TEXAS. 191 

which if you strike it, will break in a number of 
places, and some others. Then, there is the tar- 
antula, a large spider ; and the stinging lizard, 
a species of the scorpion, of a redish color, and 
about two inches long. The bite of the tarantula 
and stinging lizard is, in pain and effect, similar to 
the sting of a bee. There is a weed here, growing- 
all over the country, which is a certain cure for the 
bite of all these venomous reptiles. 

The alligator is found in the rivers of Texas. I 
saw three, one large one ; the other two, small ones. 
They sometimes catch hogs, as they go down to the 
water to drink. They will attack a man in the 
water. A man was seized by one on Little river, 
while I was in the country, who was swimming 
across ; but he was beaten off by a person near 
him, on a raft. 

Of the animals, there are many — the panther, 
wolf, wildcat, tiger cat, bear, Mexican hog, ante- 
lope, &,c. The wolves are the most numerous, and 
are quite bold and mischievous. I frequently saw 
them in tlie day time, and often heard their dis- 
cordant howl in the night. 

One day, as I was riding along alone in the open 
woods, a panther came out of a small thicket, into 
the path before me ! I knew that retreat would be 
dangerous ; and, therefore, I boldly sung out and 
pushed forward towards him. He was not dispos- 
ed to give battle, but leaped off at once into the 
woods, I was a good deal startled at this sudden 



192 TRIP TO THE WEST 

appearance of such a powerful, uncaged beast of 
the forest ; but as he appeared to be the most fright- 
ened of the two, I ought to be content. The pan- 
ther is an animal of the size and color of a full 
grown lioness, but too cowardly to attack his prey 
in the open field. Like the Indian, he lies in am- 
bush, or sits perched on the branch of a tree, and 
seizes his victim unawares. Even a small dog has 
been known to chase him into his favorite retreat 
on a tree. The bears, generally, take to the dense 
forest of trees and canebrake. They catch the 
full grown hogs, and the wolves take the pigs. 

Flies, of various kinds, are found here ; and are 
more troublesome to animals in the warm summer 
months, than at the north. I saw large sores, caus- 
ed by them, on cattle, dogs and liogs. An appli- 
cation of mercury is sometimes found necessary to 
cure them. There is also a wood tick, resembling 
that on sheep, which fastens itself on animals, but 
does not appear to do any essential injury. 

But last, although not least, in the list of evils^ 
is the ever active moscheto. In the flat country, 
bordering on the sea and bays, they are indeed 
dreadful to a northern man. When I was at the 
mouth of the Brazos, towards the last of Decem- 
ber, whether on the beach, in the house, on board 
the vessel, day and night without cessation, the 
moschetoes were excessively annoying. Give me a 
general assortment of alligators, snakes and lizards, 
rather than subject me to the eternal buzz, and 



AND TEXAS, 193 

stinging bite ot" the ever busy moscheto. Other 
animals may be successfully combatted and subdu- 
ed ; but to fight the mosclicto is like " beating the 
air;" give a blow in front and he is in the rear; 
brush the rear, and he is in front — and so on all 
day long. And when you have done, you have on- 
ly excessively fatigued and perplexed yourself, and 
left him the uninjured master of the field. The 
only chance to get rid of such a keen tormentor as 
this, is to hang yourself, or run away. In the high 
rolling country, there are less flies and no mos- 
chetoes. 

There are fev*? remnants of tribes of Indians in 
the settled region of Texas. They are generally 
said to be harmless and inoffensive; doing nothing 
worse than steahng a hog or so, in a neighborly 
way ; so that they may not be entirely forgotten. 
A woman where I stopped one night, told me that 
about twenty Indians encamped at the spring near 
her house ; came to the house for meal, and she 
gave them all she could spare. In the morning, 
after they were gone, she found they had robbed 
the yard of all the melons, and taken the fattest 
shoat she had. 

While I was in the country a man was shot at 
and wounded by an Indian, near Jones' ferry on 
the Colorado river. As he was riding along alone 
over the prairie, he saw a number of Indians by the 
side of a wood, who beckoned for him to approach. 
When he had come ({uitc near, happening to cast 

17 



194 TRIP TO THK WEST 

his eyes towards the wood, he saw an Indian, part- 
ly concealed behind a tree, with a gun drawn up 
in the act of firing. He had only time to throw 
Iiimself back on his horse, and the ball made a slight 
flesh wound on his breast. He wheeled, put spurs 
to his horse and escaped. Whether these were 
Indians belonging to the settled or unsettled regions 
of Texas, could not be ascertained. 

Between the settlements and the Rocky Moun- 
tains, are large tribes of Indians ; and detached 
parties from them, sometimes come down to the 
border plantations, and steal a few horses. They 
consider the Spaniards lawful game ; but do not care 
about fighting the Americans. They say, the Amer- 
ricans are a brave people and fight most desperate- 
ly ; and from them, they obtain their chief sup- 
plies. 

Perhaps my readers may think this rather a for- 
midable array of animals and reptiles. It may ap- 
pear more so on paper, and at a distance, than in 
the region where they are found. People of Mis- 
sissippi, Alabama and Florida, would find themselves 
at home among them ; but to a northern man they 
might be found somewhat disagreeable at first. — 
They would, however, soon become so much accus- 
tomed to them, that in a short time they would hard- 
ly regard them at all. The inhabitants here, from 
whatever quarter they may have come, do not think 
they form any serious objection to settling in the 
country. 



AND TEXAS. 195 

While I remained in Texas, I found no serious 
trouble from the animals, reptiles or insects, except 
that general enemy to repose, themoscheto, and 
that only in the lowlands. On the open prairies, 
there are but few noxious animals, except the wolves. 
This is owing a good deal, undoubtedly, to the fire 
running over them twice a year. As the country 
becomes more settled, they will be less numerous ; 
and some of them will become entirely extinct. 

The water, generally, is very good for a southern 
country. I found many fine springs of pure soft 
water in various parts of Texas ; and in the rolling 
prairies, good water is obtained by digging. The 
only objection to it is in its temperature. To me, 
it was universally too warm to be agreeable. "A 
cup of cold water" is nowhere to be found in the 
territory; and to a northern man, in a warm day, 
it is so refreshing, reviving, invigorating — so readily 
slakes the thirst, and cools the body, it is almost in- 
dispensable to his comfort and enjoyment. Warm 
water is the common drink of the inhabitants. In 
the towns, I found the various kinds of spirits and 
wine ; but in the country, I found no spirits, (^ex- 
cept very seldom, whiskey^ wine, beer, or cider ; but 
only water — warm water. It must be admitted, 
that the people are very temperate, if not to drink 
the ardent be a sure indication of temperance. 



196 TRIP TO THE WEST 



CHAPTER XXL 

There are no large towns in Texas, Bexar^ or as 
it is commonly called, St. Antonio, is the capital, 
and contains about thirty-five hundred inhabitants — 
the other villages are small, varying from one hun- 
dred to one thousand souls. St. Antonio, like all 
the Spanish towns, is composed of houses built of 
logs and mud, and makes a squalid appearance. It 
is situated about twenty miles east of San Antonio 
river. The principal towns are, Nacogdoches, Sf. 
Augustine ; and on Galveston Bay, Harrisburg and 
Lynchburg : on the Brazos — Velasco, Brazoria, Co- 
lumbia, St. Felipe, and a new town in R,obinson's 
colony at the falls : Cole's Settlement, fifteen miles 
west of the Brazos : on the Colorado — Metagorda, 
Montezuma, Electra, Bastrap, or Mina : on the Gau- 
dalupe — Gonsales : on the San Antonio — GoHad, 
(formerly Bahia,)and Bexar: in PowelFs Grant — 
St. Patrick: on the Rio Grande, or Rio del Norte — 
Refugio, Mctamoras, Reinosa, Camargo, Mier, Re- 
villa, Laredo, Presidio and the city of Doloros. 

A new town is laid out at the falls on the Brazos 
river in Robinson's colony, about two hundred and 
fifty miles from its mouth. This is the place where 



AND TEXAS. 197 

the land office is kept for this colony, and will be- 
come quite a village. But the country is not now 
settled enough to make or support large towns. It 
must be the work of time. Although men may lay 
out a tow^n, and commence building it, yet it cannot 
prematurely be forced into existence. It must have 
a back settlement to support it. The merchant and 
mechanic cannot sell, unless there are some inhab- 
itants to buy. 

The Spaniards, more than one hundred and fifty 
years ago, built some small towns in Texas, the 
principal of which are St. Antonio, Nacogdoches and 
La Bahia. These became something of villages; 
but for tw'enty years their population has continually 
diminished ; and the country at large docs not con- 
tain half the Spanish inhabitants that it did at that 
time. They, like the Indians, dwindle away, or flee 
before the settlements of the Americans. 

The Mexican government had three garrisons of 
soldiers stationed in Texas — one at Nacogdoches, 
one on Galveston Bay, and one at Velasco, at the 
mouth of the Brazos. Some of the commanders of 
these garrisons, attempted to exercise despotic pow- 
ers, in seizing Americans who had become obnox- 
ious to them, and putting them in prison. About 
two years ago, their conduct became so oppressive, 
that the citizens rose en masse, killed some of the 
soldiers, and took the remainder prisoners. The 
Mexican government than recalled all the officers 

17* 



198 TRIP TO THE WEST 

and soldiers, and there ha? not been a Mexican gar- 
rison in Texas since. 

The inhabitants of tlie country pay no taxes at 
all. It is said tliat the lands are exempt from tax- 
ation for ten years to come. All articles imported 
for the private use of the emigrant, are free of duty ; 
and in fact, a great portion of the merchandize pays 
none. When I left the Brazos river, there was no 
custom house officer upon it ; and a number of ves- 
sel loads of goods were landed, without being re- 
quired to pay any duty. 

Almost all kinds of goods afford a good profit and 
a ready sale in Texas ; especially domestic cottons, 
boots, shoes, hats and ready made clothing. Coffee 
is used in large quantities, but I did not find hardly 
a cup of tea in the whole country. It is not a 
good place for mechanics. Manufactured articles 
of all kinds are brought from the north, and sold 
cheaper than they can be made here ; and the coun- 
try is too thinly settled, and the raw material is too 
scarce, to give much employment to artisans of 
what is called custom work, such as shoemakers, 
tailors, &c. Blacksmiths, however, are an excep- 
tion to this. They are indispensable, although 
there are now but few of them. The price charged 
for shoeing a horse is from three to four dollars. 

Texas is connected with Cohahuila, and both 
form one province of the Mexican Confederacy. 
But lately, they have been made into separate judi- 
cial districts ; each having its own courts and offi- 



AND TEXAS. 199 

cers. In Texas their proceedings in court and the 
records, are in the English language ; but land titles 
are still written in the Spanish. The laws are lib 
'Oral; they guarantee the freedom of religious opin- 
ion and a trial by jury. Courts are held in St. Fe- 
lipe, Nacogdoches, St. Augustine, Bastrap, Slc. 
The government is elective and republican. I at- 
tended an election of sheriff and ©ther county offi- 
<^ers. They vote I'iva voce, as the practice is in 
many of our southern States. To be an inhabi- 
tant of the country, is all the qualification necessary 
to become a voter. 

Physicians are occasionally found in the country, 
and there are a small number of lawyers located in 
the principal towns. There are but few preachers 
of the gospel, and I believe no meeting houses, ex- 
cept some decayed Roman Catholic churches. 

The country needs more professional men. It 
opens a fine field for enterprising men in any pro- 
fession. The wheels of government in Texas move 
quietly along. The storms which agitate and dis- 
tract the city of Mexico and its vicinity, spend their 
force before they reach that province. I think, the 
government forms no serious objection to forming 
a settlement in the country. 

But in a new and thinly settled country, the laws, 
however wise and good, cannot always be enforced. 
Magistrates and executive officers are few, and 
courts often at a distance. The new settlers, there- 
fore, sometimes take the law into their own hands ; 



200 TRIP TO THE WEST 

and although they may not Inflict the same punish- 
ment the law enjoins, I believe they generally do 
substantial justice. As an instance of the kind, I 
will state a case that happened on the bank of the 
Colorado river. A man settled there, who proved 
to be a notorious thief. He stole cattle, horses, 
hogs, or any thing he could lay his hands on. 
His neighbors resolved to endure his depredations 
no longer, and gave him notice to depart from that 
section of the country, or abide the consequences. 
After waiting awhile, and learning that he intended 
to remain, some half dozen of his neighbors went 
to his house in tlie evening, took him to a tree, and 
gave him thirty-nine lashes, well laid on. They 
then told him that the punishment should be re- 
peated every week, as long as he remained in the 
neighborhood. Before a week came round, he left 
that section of the country, and has not been heard 
of since. 

In the interior of the country, there is a salt lake, 
from which a load of fine salt may be obtained in 
a short time ; and appears to be inexhaustible. 
A small stream runs from this to the Brazos river, 
and sometimes renders its waters too brackish for 
use. 

By the laws, slavery is not allowed in the pro- 
vince ; but this law is evaded by binding the 
negroes by indenture for a term of years. You 
will, therefore, find negro servants, more or less, all 
over the country ; but more, on the lowlands, to- 



AND TEX A?. 201 

wards the bays and seacoasto Large cotton plan- 
tations, in this section of the country, are cultivated 
by negroes ; and liere also are found some good 
houses and rich farmers. 

Texas lies between the twenty-seventh and thirty- 
fourth degrees of north latitude ; and between six- 
teen degrees thirty minutes, and twenty-seven de- 
grees west longitude from Washington ; and con- 
tains probably about one hundred and fifty thou- 
sand square miles — as large as all New-England 
and the State of Nev»^-York. It is bounded, east 
by the Sabine river and a line drawn due north 
from its head waters to Red River — south, by the 
Gulf of Mexico — west, by the river Neuces, Rio 
del Norte, and the Cordillera mountains — north, 
by the Red River, until it hits its eastern boundary. 

More than half of the country is prairie. The 
margin of the streams and the moist highlands are 
covered with a fine growth of timber. All the 
seacoast and on the bays, there is a strip of low, 
level land, extending seventy miles into the coun- 
try. The prairies are here very rich, but too level 
to be pleasant or healthy. The remainder of Texas 
is high, dry and gently undulating ; but not moun- 
tainous. Between the rivers Sabine and Trinity, 
are extensive, gently undulating, sandy plains, 
generally covered with a good growth of pitch 
pine ; but occasionally covered with post-oaks, 
hickory, &c. Among tliese, are interspersed small 
prairies of good land : sometimes having a black 



202 TRIP TO THE WEST 

soil; but generally of a reddish cast; and occasion- 
ally of a deep red. From the river Trinity to the 
western line of the State, are high, rolling, beau- 
tiful prairies of all sizes and shapes imaginable. 
So beautiful are these prairies, that the imagination 
cannot paint a more delightful scene. Cultivation, 
however nicely performed, will rather mar, than 
add to their beauty. They are surrounded with a 
dense forest of trees ; sometimes two or three 
miles in depth, and sometimes only of a few yards. 
On the highlands, or elevated plains, are frequently 
found oak-openings, similar to those of Michigan 
and Illinois. Texas, with the exception of the 
pine plains, may with truth be said to possess a 
deep, rich soil of black marl. 

That portion of the country lying between the 
Colorado river and Louisiana, is subject to power- 
ful rains in the fall and spring ; but as you go 
southward and westward towards the city of Mex- 
ico, the rains become less frequent, and not so 
abundant. About two months in summer, it is 
generally quite dry ; sometimes, so severe is the 
drought that vegetation withers, and the grass on 
the prairies becomes dry. To the southward of 
Texas, the Spaniards irrigate their lands to make 
them produce a more abundant crop. The plant- 
ing season is so early, (from trie first to the middle 
of February,) that all the crops, except cotton and 
sugar cane, come to maturity before the dry 
weather commences ; and these get such a vigor^ 



AND TEXAS. 203 

ous start in this luxuriant soil, that they are seldom 
materially injured by the drought. 

The roads are all in a state of nature ; yet so 
smooth is the surface, and so gently undulating is 
the face of the country, that in dry weather, better 
roads are not found any where. A person, how- 
ever, often meets with moist bottom land, and 
streams difficult to pass. In the wet season, travel- 
ling is more disagreeable and difficult ; and some- 
times impracticable, on account of the swollen, 
rapid streams of water. 

Although carriages run without difficulty all over 
the country, yet the inhabitants have not yet intro- 
duced pleasure carriages. The mode of travelling 
is on horseback ; but women and children often go 
in a baggage wagon drawn by oxen. Baggage 
wagons are quite numerous, but I found only one 
pleasure carriage in the whole province, and that 
was a gig-wagon. 

Emigrants are continually pouring into Texas, 
both by sea and by land, and from every section of 
the United States. The southerners generally 
choose the lowlands bordering on the bays and 
Gulf; but the northern people prefer the high lands 
in the interior. If emigration continues, it will 
soon contain a very respectable population. 



204 TRir TO THE west 



CHAPTEU XXII. 

I found some of the emigrants disappointed^ dis- 
contented and unhappy ; and I met one man on his 
return to the land from whence he came. He was 
from Tennessee, had moved into Texas with his 
family and a small portion of his goods in a wagon ; 
but they all did not like the country so well as the 
one they had left, and unanimously agreed to return. 
It was a tedious and expensive journey, but not al- 
together useless. It will teach them more highly 
to prize their own country, neighborhood and privi- 
leges, and induce them to spend the remainder of 
their days with contented minds. 

Before a man with a family makes up his mind 
to emigrate to a new, unsettled and distant country, 
he ought well to consider of the subject. Emigra- 
tion, hke matrimony, ought to be fully considered ; 
as a bad move in this particular, is attended by many 
evils, and cannot well bs remedied. In the first 
place, it is the best way to " let well enough alone." 
If an individual be well settled in life, has profita- 
ble employment, well supports himself and family 
and gains a little every year, dwells in an agreeable 
neighborhood^ has the privilege of sending his chil- 



AND TEXAS. 205 

dren to school, and of attending public worship, 
why should he wish to remove ? Why should he 
wish to go into the wilderness, endure the fatigues 
of a long journey, and the many hardships and de- 
privations, necessarily attendant upon a removal to 
the most favored spot in the new world ? This life 
is too short and uncertain to be spent in maldng 
doubtful experiments. It is wise, to live where v/e 
can be the most useful and happy ourselves, and 
where we have the fairest prospect of rendering 
others so, with whom we are connected. 

But the young man who has no lucrative employ- 
ment, and the married man who has to labor hard 
to gain a scanty subsistence for himself and family, 
would do well to go to the rich prairies of the south 
or west. He ought to be careful not to be too 
much elated with the prospect before him, for dis- 
appointment, fatigue and suffering most assuredly 
await him. It is not " a light thing " to travel with 
a family of goods two or three thousand miles. — 
He ought to accustom his mind to dwell upon hard- 
ship and suffering, before he commences his jour- 
ney. Young says — • 

"Our only lesson is to learn to suffer; 

"And he who knows not that, was born for nothing." 

But on his arrival at his location in the new world, 
however fine, rich and elegant the situation may be, 
he will feel disappointed and sad. This is perfectly 
natural; and although some may have too much 
pride to acknowledge it, yet thev all have a strange- 

18" 



206 TRIP TO THE WEST 

ness of feeling pervading their breasts, that is some- 
times painful in the extreme. Perhaps the emigrant 
had never before travelled far from the smoke of his 
father's dwelling, and had spent his life hitherto in 
the neighborhood where he was born, and where 
his early and innocent attachments were formed. 
He now finds himself in a new country, far away 
from the ever-to-be-remembered scenes of his child- 
hood, and he looks abroad upon the world around 
him, in sadness of heart ; for it is a world, however 
beautiful it may be, that is a stranger to him, and 
with which he has no sympathy. Not to feel, un- 
der such circumstances as these, indicates something 
more or less than man. And this strange, lonely 
feeling is hardly softened down and mitigated, by 
the well known fact, that his new location is far su- 
perior to the one he has left. The inhabitants of 
Nantucket are proverbially attached to that island 
of sand, and are discontented and unhappy in the 
most fertile towns and beautiful villages on the con- 
tinent. 

The emigrant ought to think of all these things, 
before he leaves his native village. But when he 
has become located in the new world, it will not do 
to shrink back and despond. He must brace him- 
self to the task before him, and cheer up his family, 
who in fact need some cheering, for exchanging a 
well built house and pleasant associates, for the rude 
log hut and wild beasts of the forests. They will 
all soon become acquainted with the new world and 



AND TEXAS. 207 

form new associations. A well built house will 
shortly take the place of the rude cabin, and emi- 
grants will settle near them, to whom they will be- 
come attached. The rich fields will produce an 
abundant harvest, and large herds of cattle will be 
seen feeding on the luxuriant grass. He will soon 
gain a competency, live at ease, and become con- 
tented and happy. 

The inhabitants have a strong belief that Texas 
will at some future day become one of the United 
States ; but I think this, extremely doubtful. It is 
more probable, that it will in time become an inde- 
pendent sovereignty. It is now one of the Mexi- 
can States, and the seat of the general government 
is in the city of Mexico. The confederacy is com- 
posed of quite a number of States, and Texas sends 
its due proportion of representatives to the general 
Congress, to make laws for the whole. These 
States have never been well agreed in their form of 
government, or in the men for rulers. Revolutions, 
and counter-revolutions, have been the order of the 
day at the seat of the general government; but 
Texas is too much settled by Americans, and is too 
far removed from these intestine commotions to be 
much affected by them. 

Col. Stephen F. Austin, to whom the first colony 
was granted, and who has been the indefatigable 
pioneer in the settlement of Texas, has generally 
been its representative in the general government. 
In the spring of 1834, he was at the seat of gov- 



208 TRIP TO THE WEST 

ernment, but so great were the divisions that lit- 
tle business could be done. He considered the 
country in a state of revolution, and wrote home to 
a friend of his, that he believed Texas had better 
take care of itself and form a government of its 
own. This friend proved treacherous, enclosed his 
letter to the President, and sent it to the city of 
Mexico. It was received just after Col. Austin had 
left the city on his return home. He was pursued, 
arrested, brought back and put in prison. He was 
for awhile kept in close confinement ; and then, let 
out on his giving bonds to confine himself to the 
limits of the city. When I was in Texas, it was 
believed, he would shortly be liberated, and was 
daily expected home; but I have since learned, 
that he was not liberated until some months after 
my return. 

It requires not the gift of prophecy to tell what 
the end of these things will be. Texas will be- 
come tired of belonging to such a discordant con- 
federacy ; and when their population shall have 
sufliciently increased to insure success, will throw 
off the yoke, and form a government of their own. 
But at all events, it will soon be disjoined from 
Cohahuila, establish its own State government, and 
elect its own officers. The seat of government will 
probably be San Felipe, on the Brazos river. 

In some publications the people of Texas have 
been slandered. They have been called a set of 
robbers and murderers, screening themselves from 



AND TEXAS. 209 

justice, by fleeing from their own country and com- 
ing to this. It would be strange, indeed, if there 
were not such instances ; but whoever travels over 
the country, will find them as pleasant, obliging 
and kind as any people in the United States. In 
the towns, you generally find a billiard room ; and 
near it, a race-course. At these resorts, are found 
the favorite amusements of the inhabitants. I 
went all through the country, unarmed and un- 
harmed ; nor did I at any time feel in jeopardy of 
life or limb. Their most prominent fault is, in 
being too fond of pastime and hunting, to the 
neglect of tilling the land, building decent houses, 
and procuring the conveniences of life. 

The most healthy and pleasant portions of Texas 
are in the regions of Nacogdoches ; in the rolling 
country between the Brazos and Colorado ; and 
southward and westward of the latter river — in 
Beal's Grant, near the Rio del Norte ; and high up 
on the Brazos and its branches, in Robinson's colo- 
ny. But neither Galveston Bay, nor the flat coun- 
try all along the seacoast, is the place for a north- 
ern man. It is too much infested with alligators, 
moccason snakes and moschetoes. It is more suit- 
able for southern planters, to be cultivated by the 
blacks. 

But whoever emigrates with his family to Texas, 
let him, at all events, carry with him bread stuffs to 
last six months ; for there is no wheat raised in the 
country, and only a small crop of corn for the sup- 

18* 



210 TRIP TO THE WEST 

ply of its own inhabitants. Of course, bread stuffs 
are always dear, and sometimes unattainable at any 
price. Cattle and hogs are plenty, and wild game 
abundant, so that he could supply himself with 
meat in this country. 

The emigrant had better buy his cattle and 
horses here ; for those brought from a more north- 
ern climate do not thrive well, and often die. A 
good serviceable horse may be bought for, from 
twenty to thirty dollars ; a cow with a calf by her 
side, for ten dollars ; and a yoke of oxen for about 
thirty dollars. The land is ploughed by oxen, 
horses and mules ; but journeys for the transporta- 
tion of merchandize are performed by oxen. 

There is a mail running from the city of Mexico, 
through St. Felipe, as far as Nacogdoches ; but as 
the United States mail goes no farther than Fort 
Jessup, the two mails do not meet each other, by 
seventy-five miles. There is, therefore, no mail 
connection between the United States and Texas. 
This is a serious inconvenience, and must shortly 
be remedied. The only chance to send a letter 
either way, is by a private conveyance. This is 
generally done by the captains of vessels. 

The currency is silver and gold coin, bills of the 
United States Bank and those of New Orleans. — 
Copper coins are not found in circulation at the 
south and west. Texas has no bank of its own. 

Thus much for my general view of Texas. I 
have endeavored to give a true account of the 



AND TEXAS. 211 

country as it appeared to me. Perhaps it may not 
be altogether acceptable to landholders and specu- 
lators. Be that as it may, I believe I have per- 
formed an acceptable service to the emigrant, by 
giving him a fair account of the country ; and one 
that he will find to be a true one, in all its essen- 
tial particulars, on his arrival. Live stock, cotton 
and sugar are and will be the great staples of the 
country — grain will be of secondary consideration. 

What, then, is the conclusion of the whole mat- 
ter ? Is Texas a desirable place for a northern 
man ? My opinion is, that if a northern man 
would locate himself in the highlands of the coun- 
try, he would enjoy health as well as at the north ; 
procure all the necessaries and conveniences of life 
much easier ; and might, in time, become inde- 
pendently rich. I do think he would find the 
climate more pleasant, and more congenial to his 
feelings, than a northern one ; and his life probably 
attended by more enjoyments. 

I have been frequently asked, what particular 
spot in Texas is the most desirable for an emigrant 
to settle in ? My answer is, I cannot tell. And 
whoever travels over the country, will be as much 
puzzled to tell as I am. The fact is, there are 
hundreds of places offering about the same in- 
ducements — all pleasant, healthy and agreeable. 
Among them, it is quite immaterial what particular 
one the emigrant may select. I saw an emigrant 
who had been in the country almost a year, and he 



212 TRIP TO THE WEST 

had been riding over it the chief part of the time, 
and still was unable to make a selection. He said 
there were so many fine situations, so nearly alike, 
that he found it difficult to give a decided prefer- 
ence to any particular one. When he w ill be able 
to make up his mind, and decide the question, I 
know not. The last time I saw him, he was still 
on the wing ; and for aught I know, he may keep 
in motion as long as the far-famed Boston traveller, 
Feter Rugg, or the Flying Dutchman, and never 
be able to find a spot of ground for a permanent 
abode ! But this emigrant is not to be " sneezed 
at." Questions of far less importance have agitated 
the world ; and who knows, but that the destiny 
of the country, as well as his own, eminently de- 
fends upon his particular location I 
Again — I have been enquired of, what can a 
man do to make property in Texas ? I answer, 
lie can go into trade in some of the villages, and 
lake large profits upon his goods. He can go on 
) a plantation, and raise cotton, sugar, corn, or 
ock — any or all of these are easily raised, and find 
a ready market. This is what he may do ; but 
what he luill do, is altogether uncertain. He may 
become as indolent and inattentive to business, as 
many of the inhabitants of the country. He may 
spend his timje in hunting, at the race-course, and 
at the biUiard table. Here, at the north, the great 
anxiety is, how we shall live — ^wherewithal we shall 
be clothed; and how we can turn a penny to " get 



A.ND TEXAS. 213 

gain ;" /Aere, the great concern is, how tl^iey shall 
employ themselves to kill time. Here, we struggle 
hard to live ; there, they strive hard not to live. 
Her'e, we live in spite of nature ; there, nature 
makes them live in spite of themselves. Could an 
emigrant know what course he would take on set- 
tling in Texas, he could then tell, whether it 
would be better to go or remain. I have spread 
the country open before him ; let him judge for 
himself. And fortunate is he, who gives heed to 
the experience of others, and makes a wise choice. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

I concluded to return to the north by water. I 
procured a conveyance from the interior to St. 
Felipe on horseback ; and here I learnt that there 
was a schooner sixty miles down the river at Co- 
lumbia, bound to New-Orleans, which would sail 
in a few days. I could find no conveyance to 
Columbia, either by land or water. I found a 
wagon going down for merchandize, on which I 
put my baggage ; and in company with another 
gentleman, whom I found in the same predicament 
with myself, started off on foot. 



214 TRIP TO THE WEST 

St. Felipe is the head quarters of Austin's colo- 
ny. It is a small village, on a high prairie, imme- 
diately on the south bank of the Brazos river, near- 
ly one hundred miles from the sea. It stands on 
the first high land you come to on the river ; and 
at this spot the high rolling country commences. 
Its situation is beautiful and commanding. It has 
two taverns, four or five stores, a court house, and 
perhaps twenty dwelling houses ; but there are on- 
ly two or three good looking buildings in the place. 
The opposite side of the river is low, and covered 
with a heavy growth of timber. 

St. Fehpe, like most of the southern villages, is 
not without its billiard room ; and its usual, I might 
say invariable accompaniment, the grog shop. — • 
Billiards is a pleasant and manly game enough ; 
and good exercise for a sedentary man ; and if in- 
dulged in only for amusement, is as innocent as 
any recreation whatever. It is a game much play- 
ed in the middle and southern portions of the Uni- 
ted States ; and men of the first respectability are 
found at the table. But in this section of the 
country, it cannot be recommended as a safe place 
for recreation. It is generally used as a mere 
gambling apparatus; and a person meets with a 
class of society not the most civil, sober and peace- 
able. 

Not long since, a young man played with an old 
gambler, until he became tired, and started oflf. 
The gambler came out at the door, and called him 



AND TEXAS. 215 

back ; but finding he could not induce him to re- 
turn, out of mere wantonness and sport, com- 
menced tlirowing brickbats at him. The young 
man was a cripple, and could neither run, nor suc- 
cessfully contend with his athletic opponent. He 
bore it as long as he could, then drew a pistol and 
shot him through the body. He fell dead upon 
the spot, without uttering a word. He had been 
an overbearing, troublesome fellow, and his death 
was the cause of joy rather than sorrow. 

One night, while I was at St. Felipe, two young 
men returned from a bloody affray, thirty miles 
down the river. Early the next morning, two other 
men, fully armed, entered the town in pursuit, and 
paraded the streets in hostile array. I enquired 
into the history of the case, and found the follow- 
ing particulars. 

Sometime previous, one of the young men paid 
his addresses to a young lady, and was engaged to 
be married. He went to the north on some mer- 
cantile business ; and during his absence, another 
young man by the name of Thompson, commenced 
his particular attentions to the young lady ; and 
the match was strongly advocated by his father. 
On his return from the north, he and another 
young man who had married a sister of the lady in 
question, payed a visit to her father's — ^stayed all 
night, and started in the forenoon, to return to St. 
Fehpe. One of them Vv^as in a light gig-v*'agon, 
the other on horseback. They had proceeded bul 



216 TRIP TO THE WEST 

a few miles when they heard the clattering of 
horses' feet, at full speed, behind them. On look- 
ing round, they saw young Thompson's father, and 
a doctor of the neighborhood, in close pursuit, with 
pistols in hand. The young men were also arm- 
ed ; and immediately shots were exchanged by 
both parties. But such was the hurry and agita- 
tion of the moment, that none took effect. They 
all dismounted at once, and at it they went, in a 
desperate contest for hfe and death. The doctor, 
not hking this part of the game, or not feeling ex- 
actly brave on the occasion, was contented to stand 
aloof, and see the battle rage. Old Thompson 
was a powerful man, and about an equal match for 
both of his opponents. He laid about him like a 
giant ; and sometimes had one grounded, and then 
the other ; and apparently, would shortly gain the 
victory over them both. At length, he knocked 
one down, and seemed determined to despatch him 
at once. He seized him by the throat, and called 
upon the doctor for a knife. The other young man 
saw at a glance the critical state of the contest — • 
he jumped to the wagon, took out a loaded gun, 
just in time to stop the doctor, by his threats, from 
handing the knife, then took deliberate aim at 
Thompson, and shot him through the body. Thomp- 
son fell back, said he was a dead man, and expired 
in a few minutes. The doctor ran to his horse, 
mounted and fled with all convenient speed. The 
young men, having been rather roughly handled, 



AND TEXAS » 217 

were considerably bruised, although not seriously in- 
jured. They picked up the deadly weapons of the 
battle-field, as trophies of victory, and made the 
best of their way to St. Felipe. 

In a short time, the doctor, young Thompson and 
some others, came to the battle-ground, and carried 
home the dead body; and without waiting to at- 
tend the funeral, young Thompson and the doctor 
started after the young men, to avenge his death. 
It caused no small stir at St. Fehpe, vvhen they arriv- 
ed, and paraded the streets fully armed, and breathr 
ing out threatenings. The young men took to a 
store, and with arms in their hands, awaited the re- 
sult. The civil authority, however, interfered. The 
young men gave themselves up to the custody of 
the law, and Thompson and the doctor were per- 
suaded to go home, and abide a trial by jury. 

It is no pleasure to me to give an account of 
such lawless battles ; but as a faithful chronicler of 
events I could not pass them over in silence. Texas, 
however, is not more the theatre of them, than 
many places in the United States. If the value of 
an article is enhanced in proportion to its scarcity, 
it is more excusable to fight for a lady here, than 
elsewhere ; for, according to the best estimate I 
could make, there are ten men to one woman in 
the country. And could the surplus maiden popu- 
lation of New-England be induced to emigrate to 
Texas, they would meet with a cordial reception } 

19 



218 



TRIP TO THE WEST 



and it might prove, not only advantageous to them- 
selves, but highly beneficial to the country. 

In two miles from the town, we came to the flat, 
low country. It was, generally, muddy and very 
disagreeable and fatiguing to travel over. It was 
all an open prairie country, except a small skirt of 
timber immediately on the banks of the little 
streams ; and almost a dead level, except in one 
place, twelve miles from Columbia. Here, a hun- 
dred acres or more rise thirty or forty feet above the 
general level of the country, and by way of dis- 
tinction, is called " the mound." Near the streams, 
the ground was a little elevated ; and at such places, 
we found houses, and some small improvements, 
probably, in eight or ten miles of each other. We 
saw a great many herds of deer, and flocks of wild 
geese and ducks. 

We were almost four days in performing the 
route ; and were excessively fatigued, when we en- 
tered the small village of Columbia. This is a new 
village, having two or three stores, a tavern, and 
half a dozen dwelling houses. It is situated on a 
level prairie, two miles from the river, and ten above 
Brazoria. There is a small village immediately on 
the bank of the river, called Bell's Landing ; and the 
space between the two, is low bottom land, heavily 
covered Vvith timber. 

At this landing, vessels come up and unload their 
merchandize, destined for the upper country. It 
has a tavern, two stores, a large warehouse, and 



AND TEXAS. 219 

three or four dwelling houses. Here I was inform- 
ed, the schooner had dropped down the stream. I 
stopped over night, and rather than walk, I obtained 
a log canoe, and a man to paddle me down to Bra- 
zoria. The tide sets up a little further than Bell's 
Landing, and our boat, having the advantage of its 
ebb and the cur;-ent also, floated us down in two 
hours. 

Brazoria is quite a large village. I found some 
very good buildings, public houses, stores, and as 
usual, a billiard room. A newspaper is pubhshed 
here, called the Brazoria Gazette ; and I believe is 
the only one printed in all Texas. The situation 
of the town is low and unpleasant ; and subject to 
the fever and ague. I found a steamboat here, 
going up the river ; but the vessel had gone further 
down ; so we started in the canoe after her ; and 
rowing fifteen miles we found her by the side of the 
river, taking in bales of cotton. I was glad to get 
on board the vessel, and be relieved at once from 
the tediousness and fatigue of pursuit, and from the 
uncertainty of obtaining a passage to the United 
States. 

The vessel remained here, until the next day, 
when we sailed with a light breeze down the stream. 
The river is very crooked, so that it is tv/ic-e as far 
from Brazoria to its mouth by water, as it is by land. 
We had to tie the vessel up to a tree at night, as it 
was too dark to proceed. The next day in the 
afternoon, v^^e hauled up again, on account of a head 



220 TRIP TO THE WEST 

wind. The mate stept ashore to spend the time in 
hunting. The river is hned with timber on both 
sides, aboirt a mile in width ; afld then, the country 
is generally an open, level prairie. The mate be- 
came entirely bewildered and lost ; could not find 
his way back to the vessel ; and was obliged to 
camp out for the night. In the morning, the cap- 
tairt sent scouts in various directions after him ; but 
they all returned without success. The captain con- 
cluded he must have gone towards the mouth of the 
stiver ; so he hoisted sail and started on. Nearly 
iioon, the mate made his appearance on the river 
bank, nearly opposite the vessel ; and the captain 
sent his boat for him. He was quite exhausted. — > 
He had v/andered about almost the whole time, and 
could neither find a house, road or river. He said 
he never had been used to hunting ; but he could 
not conceive why people were so fond of it, as it 
was much more pain than pleasure to him. ' Every 
one to his trade.' A hunter would have found as 
little pleasure on the ocean, as the sailor did on the 
land. This hunting expedition afforded no little 
merriment to the captain and crew, at his expense, 
during the voyage. 

The timber on the river banks became less, as we 
descended ; and for five miles above the mouth, 
there is none at all. A small town called Velasco is 
situated on the sandy beach, at the river's mouth — 
containing one public house, two stores, four or five 
dwelling houses, and the ruins of an old Spanish 



AND TEXAS. 221 

fort. We stayed two days here, waiting for a fair 
wind to cross the bar. I frequently amused myself 
by walking for miles on the sandy beach, and pick- 
ing up some of the pretty shells among the millions 
that lay scattered along. It is as fine a walk as a 
pensive maiden, in contemplative mood, could de- 
sire. On the one hand, is the ever-toiling ocean, 
whose waves break upon the sand bars, and in giddy 
globes of foam, lash the shore, and spend their 
force beneath your feet : on the other, a low, sandy 
bluff, and then an extended lawn, stretching far 
away into the interior, and its utmost verge skirted 
with stately forest trees ; and the pathway itself, 
smooth, hard and level, and bedecked with countless 
beautiful shells of various sizes, shapes and hues. 

The Brazos is an unpleasant stream. Its waters 
are at all times muddy ; its banks are generally low 
and present a raw edge to the eye as you pass along ; 
and in many places the navigation is rendered diflni- 
cult, by reason of the many snags. At its mouth, 
there is a bar, generally having not more than five 
or six feet of water ; and the channel so narrow 
that a vessel can only pass through with a fair wind. 
Three vessels had been wrecked on the coast the 
past season. The remains of two of them, lay in 
sight partly buried in the sand. 

In the spring, the waters of all the streams in 
Texas are high, and bring down from the upper 
country, large quantities of timber. The mouth of 

19* 



222 TRIP TO THE WEST 

the Brazos, and a long distance on the seashore, is 
lined with large masses of trees ; and from this source 
the inhabitants of Velasco obtain their fuel. 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

One morning, near the last of December, the cap- 
tain announced a fair wind. He weighed anchor, 
-hoisted sail, and with a stiff breeze pushed out to 
sea. The vessel only drew five feet water, yet she 
touched three or four times on the bar ; but did no 
apparent damage. I stood upon the deck, until the 
land, trees and houses faded away in the distance. 

Texas, like a beautiful damsel, has many charms 
and attractions, but is not entirely faultless. Indeed, 
there is no such place as a perfect elysium on earth. 
And those who have formed their opinion of the 
country from some of the many late publications 
concerning it, will feel some disappointment on their 
arrival. But its many beauties will hide a multitude 
of faults ; or render them light and easily borne. I 
must say of Texas, as Cowper said of England, 
'' with all its faults, 1 like it still ;" and although I 
had experienced some hardships and inconveniences 
while in the country, yet its mild climate, pleasant 



AND TEXAS. 223 

streams, and enchanting " fields of living green," I 
left at last with serious regret. 

The fall of the year is the best time to move mto 
Texas ; or into any of the western States. There 
are four good reasons to give for this preference : 
1st. It is then better travelHng ; both on account of 
the dryness of the roads, and the mild temperature 
of the weather — neither too hot or too cold. 2d. It 
is more healthy on the road — not so much danger 
of contracting disease on the way ; and to be there 
at the opening of the spring, and become accustom- 
ed to the climate and warm weather by degrees, 
there will be a fairer prospect of continued health. 
3d. It is the time of the year when provisions are 
the most plenty and cheapest ; an emigrant can, 
therefore, the more readily supply himself on the 
road, and after his arrival. 4th. It is the shortest 
time a person can be in the country, and raise a 
crop the ensuing season. To arrive in October, or 
the first of November, he will have plenty of time 
to build a log house, split out rails and fence in a 
field by the coming spring, so as to raise a crop. — 
Were he to go in the spring, he would be obliged 
to support himself and family a whole year before 
he could get a crop into the ground. 

To go from the north to Texas, the better way is 
to take a passage on board a vessel bound to Gal- 
veston Bay, the river Brazos, or the Colorado. But 
if a vessel cannot readily be found, going direct to 
Texas, a passage may be taken to New-Orleans ; and 



224 TRIP TO THE WEST 

from thence, a person can go up the Red River to 
Natchitoches, and across the country ; or by water 
through the Gulf, to almost any port on the bays 
and rivers. The distance from Boston by water, is 
three thousand miles ; by land, it is not quite so far. 
From the city of New- York, vessels frequently may 
be found going direct to Texas. The most con- 
venient places for landing in Texas are Harrisburg, 
on Galveston Bay ; Velasco, at the mouth of the 
Brazos, and Metagorda at the mouth of the Colora- 
do. It would be advisable to get a protection, more 
especially, if a person goes by water. 

Speculation — ever busy, active speculation, per- 
vades the world. It rages with violence in Maine, 
disturbs the quiet villages of New-England, keeps 
the western world alive, and visits the shores of 
Texas. I was at a loss to know how speculation 
could get hold of Texas lands ; for they are only 
granted to the actual settler and only one grant 
given to each. Human ingenuity has devised a 
plan. When an emigrant arrives in the country, 
he is met by a land speculator, who tells him he 
knows of a good location, and if he will go and set- 
tle on it, he shall have one half of the league for no- 
thing. The land is entered at the land office in the 
emigrant's name, the speculator pays the fees, and 
takes a deed of one half, from the emigrant. This 
is not the worst kind of speculation in the world. 
It, probably, may prove beneficial to both parties. 
The emigrant at lea^t, seems to have no cause for 



AND TEXAS. 225 

complaint. He gets twenty three hundred acres of 
land, as much as he can ever cultivate, and pays 
nothing at all for it. 

We had four passengers on board ; two of whom 
were afflicted with that lingering disease called the 
fever and ague. They had resided a few months 
in the lowlands of Texas, and became so severely af- 
flicted, they w^ere returning to the United States for 
health. The other was a physician, who had gone 
up the river as far as Columbia; did not hke the 
country and w^as on his return home to Tennessee. 
I informed him, he had not seen the most desirable 
portion of the country. And such was the fact. — 
But he had read some of the descriptions of the 
"beautiful river Brazos and the fine country adja- 
cent," and was thereby completely deceived. 

A sea voy?ge is always unpleasant to me. The 
wind blew a strong breeze, the waves rolled high, 
and made our vessel dance over them like a feather. 
We all became dreadfully sea sick. It is a terrible 
feeling; and those afflicted with it, probably endure 
as much excruciating pain and distress, as the human 
system is capable of sustaining. In two days, the 
wind abated in a measure, and the sea became com- 
paratively smooth. We crawled out upon deck, 
our sickness abated, and soon left us entirely. 

On the fifth day, just at night, we saw the lighf 
at the southwest pass of the Mississippi. It soon 
became dark, and the captain in attempiing to enter 
the mouth of the river, run tlie vessel aground near 



226 TRIP TO THE WEST 

the shore. A scene here occurred, that somewhat 
startled us. We were in the cabin and felt the ves- 
sel strike and heard the waves dash against her. — 
We ran up on deck, and there saw the captain seat- 
ed upon the windlass, writhing in agony, and groan- 
ing like one in despair ! The idea struck us in a 
moment, that the captain saw our danger to be imi- 
nent, the vessel would dash in pieces, and we must 
all perish. But we were immediately relieved from 
our apprehensions. In the darkness of the night, 
and hurry of the moment, the captain had been 
thrown across the pump, and severely injured ; and 
it was from actual pain of body, rather than anguish 
of mind that made him groan so bitterly. We did 
not, however, feel entirely at ease. We were ex- 
posed to the open sea ; and if the wind should rise, 
and blow hard on shore, the vessel must be dashed 
to pieces, and we escape the best way we could. 

But we were highly favored. The wind died 
away and the sea became quite calm. We retired 
to our berths, and slept quietly. In the morning, 
we carried out an anchor ; at flood tide, hauled the 
vessel off; a steamboat took us in tow, and at the 
dinner hour, we were gallantly gliding up the river. 
So change the scenes of life. 

The Mississippi steam tow-boats have engines of 
immense power. Our boat had six vessels in tow, 
and it carried us along at the rate of four miles an 
hour, against the strong current of the river. From 
the mouth of the Mississippi to New-Orleans is one 



AND TEXAS. ' 227 

hundred and fifteen miles, and we performed the 
trip in about twenty-eight hours. The price charg- 
ed for towing up the river is a dollar a ton ; and the 
amount the boat received from all the vessels was 
about five hundred dollars. The vessels are tow- 
ed down stream for half price and sometimes less. 

Fifteen miles from the sea, the Mississippi divides 
itself into three channels, each having a lighthouse 
near the mouth ; but the southwest pass is the on- 
ly one in which ships can enter when loaded. The 
river continually pushes its banks further out to sea. 
They are formed of mud and logs, and soon become 
covered with a rank growth of rushes. 

The banks of the river are low, and too wet for 
cultivation, for fifty miles from the sea. Soon after 
passing fort Jackson, which is about forty miles up 
the river, we came to sugar plantations on both 
sides, and these continued to the city of New-Or- 
leans. On many of these large plantations we saw 
elegant houses, surrounded by orange trees, loaded 
with fruit. In the rear, sugar houses, and steam 
mills for grinding the cane, and long rows of neat 
looking negro houses ; and large stacks of rice stand- 
ing near them. The planters were all busily enga- 
ged in making sugar ; and we saw armies of negroes 
in the fields, cutting and transporting the cane to 
the mills. January had already commenced, yet 
there had been no frost to destroy vegetation, and 
the cane looked as green as in midsummer. The 
crop of sugar was unusually large, and of an excel- 
lent quality. 



S^8 TllIP TO THE WEST 

The sugar cane, in size, stalk and leaf very much 
resembles the southern corn. It has, however, no 
spindles at the top like a corn stalk, but terminates 
in a tuft of long leaves. It does not appear to 
produce any seed in this country but the crop is 
annually renewed, by planting short slips of the 
stalk. Its juice is sweet, pleasant and nutritious. — 
The negroes are very fond of chewing the stalk ; 
and I saw some bundles of it at the vegetable mar- 
ket in New-Orleans for sale. When the cane comes 
to maturity, it is cut up and ground with smooth 
nuts, which in fact only compress the stalk, and 
force out the juice. This is caught in a large trough 
underneath, and undergoes the same process of boil- 
ing in large kettles, as the sap of a northern maple, 
when made into sugar. When the boiling is com- 
pleted, the sugar is put into a large cistern full of 
holes in the bottom, where it remains a number of 
days, that all the molasses that will, may drain out. 
It is then put into hogsheads and sent to market. 



CHAPTER XXV. 

On the eastern bank of the Mississippi, stands the 
city of New-Orleans. It is regularly laid out, chiefly 
built of brick, has many fine blocks of buildings, 



AND TEXAS. 229 

large houses and handsome streets ; but its site is 
too low for it to appear to advantage, or to render 
it pleasant and agreeable. It stretches two miles 
along the river bank ; and for that distance, the le- 
vee is lined with triple and quadruple rows of ves- 
sels, steamboats and flat-boats ; all having their par- 
ticular location by themselves. The trade of New- 
Orleans is immense. By the weekly shipping re- 
gister, it appeared there were two hundred and 
thirty-four vessels in port. The levee is loaded with 
bales of cotton, barrels of pork and flour, hogsheads 
of hams, kegs of lard and hogsheads of sugar and 
molasses. It is a place of great business, bustle and 
blandishment ; and of dissipation, disease and death. 
As I passed along by its muddy pavements and 
putrid gutters, and saw the many gambling houses, 
grog shops, oyster shops, and houses of riot and de- 
bauchery, surely, thought I, there are many things 
here exceedingly offensive, both to the physical and 
moral man. And when I saw the motley throngs, 
hurrying on to these haunts of vice, corruption and 
crime, I almost instinctively exclaimed, in the words 
of the immortal bard — 

"Broad \s tlie road that leads to death, 
•'And thousands walk together there !" 

But here, the career of the debauchee is short. — 
The poisonous atmosphere soon withers and wastes 
away his polluted hfe's blood. Death follows close 
upon the heels of crime ; and one need stand but a 
short time at the charnel house, to behold cartloads 

20 



230 TRIP TO THE WEST 

of his victims, hurried on, "unwept, unhonored and 
unsung," to their last home! 

Life seems to be valued by its possessor, in pro- 
portion to the strength of the tenure by which it is 
held. When danger becomes imminent, and life's 
termination apparently near, instead of making the 
most of its short duration, man improvidently throws 
it away, as of no value ; or suppresses all apprehen- 
sion of the future, by rushing headlong into the 
wildest excesses of dissipation and crime. This is 
sometimes exemplihed in the sailor. When perils 
thicken around and death stares him in the face, in- 
stead of summoning all his powers into action, and 
bravely contending to the last, he attempts to shut 
his eyes upon impending ruin, by stupifying the 
body, and ignobly surrenders life without a struggle. 
On no other principle, can I account for the exces- 
ses of New-Orleans. In its best estate, it is emphat- 
ically a place of disease and death. Its atmosphere 
is pestiferous. It is felt so to be, and so considered 
by its citizens. One might suppose, amid the rava- 
ges of disease and death, a man would think seri- 
ously and live soberly. That if his days were to be 
very few, he would make them all count, and tell to 
the greatest advantage. But the inhabitants of New- 
Orleans, instead of attempting to deprive death of 
his power, are enhsted on his side — they put poison- 
ed arrows in his quiver, and add new terrors to his 
name ! The sanctions of law and religion are set 
at nought, the Sabbath profaned, and they give 



AND TEXAS. 231 

themselves up to hilarity, dissipation and crime. Is 
this denied ? The fact is too apparent and notori- 
ous, successfully to be concealed or denied. Could 
the many victims of debauchery and crime speak, 
they might "unfold atale" that would cause "the hair 
of the flesh to stand up," and make the boldest turn 
pale. Shall I be asked to particularize? Take 
the Criminal Code, and there read its long list of 
enormities and crimes. 

Censures are painful, and comparisons are deemed 
invidious ; but I must say New-Orleans does not 
show that order, neatness and sobriety, found in 
other large cities of the Union. Murders, robberies, 
thefts and riots, are too common hardly to elicit a 
passing notice. Man here seems to have become 
reckless of life. It is taken and given for "trifles 
light as air," with an indiflerence truly astonishing. 
The police is inefficient or shamefully negligent. — 
The authorities of the city appear to stand aloof, 
and see the populace physically and morally wal- 
lowing in the mire. It does appear to me, that if 
all in authority, and all the virtuous portion of the 
citizens would brace themselves to the work, the 
city might be greatly improved in health and in mor- 
als. Let the strong arm of the law be put forth 
fearlessly — let the streets be cleared of mud and 
filth, and the gutters of their putrid water — let the 
police be active and take into custody the disorder- 
ly knaves and vagabonds — let gambling houses be 
put down, and Sundav theatres and circuses be 



23"2 TRIP TO THE WEST 

suppressed, and New-Orleans would wear a differ- 
ent aspect. Then might its streets be walked with- 
out fear of life or limb; and the great wealth flow- 
ing in, by canal, railroad and river, be fully enjoyed. 
This may be thought by some to be an exaggera- 
ted account of the city. For the honor of our coun- 
try and of human nature, I wish it might be. But 
it is, indeed, too true ; and whoever happens to visit 
it, that places a decent value upon life, or the goods 
of this life, will be glad, like me, to escape without 
the injury or loss of either. Although the vessel I 
came in was robbed of money and wearing apparel ; 
one of its sailors knocked down and his money 
taken from him ; and a companion of mine had his 
pocket book cut from his pocket ; yet, I fortunately 
escaped. I could not, however, feel at ease among 
such a set of plunderers and robbers. 

I am fully aware, that a large portion of the pop- 
ulace is made up of all nations, tongues and langua- 
ges ; that their residence here is often transient : 
that many enormities are incidental to all large cit- 
ies of such a mixed population : and that the many 
worthy citizens ought not to be held responsible for 
all the crimes that may be committed, unless they 
make themselves accessory to them, by indifferently 
looking on, and taking no energetic measure to pre- 
vent them. But it does appear to me they are cul- 
pably negligent in this particular. 

The city authorities need not sanction crime, by 
licensing gambling houses and houses of ill-fame. 



AND TEXAS. Q33 

By so doing, they take from themselves the power 
of frowning upon crime, or of efFectually punishing 
the criminal ; but leave him to assume an unblush- 
ing boldness in society, not elsewhere witnessed, 
that is truly alarming. If crime may not be entire- 
ly prevented, it can be rendered disgraceful ; and 
those who have a decent respect for the opinion of 
mankind, if they have none for themselves, will then 
be deterred from committing evil. Bbt as long as 
New-Orleans is believed to be a place, where crimes 
may be committed with impunity, and without in- 
curring the censure or disapprobation of its citizens ; 
so long will it be the general haunt for the knaves 
and vagabonds of the Union, and of the world. — 
They will centre here ; give countenance and sup- 
port to each other ; draw within their deadly grasp 
the unsuspecting, the vicious and the idle ; and, like 
the rolling snow-ball, at every impulse enlarge their 
circle, and gain additional force and power. 

It is time, high time for all the sober minded and 
well disposed to awake, look about them, and see 
their true condition. Theirs is the sleep of death. 
Like Jonah of old, they slumber amid the whirlwind 
and storm. New-Orleans needs reform ; and in a 
righteous cause, small means may effect much. Ten 
men may chase a thousand. Can the result be 
doubtful? 

' Our doubts are traitors 



And make us lose the good we oft might win, 
By fearing to attempt." 



20^ 



234 TRIP TO THE WEST 

But I have done with the health and moral con- 
dition of New-Orleans. I am told it has improved, 
and is improving. And yet there is room — an am- 
ple field for the philanthropist to exercise the utmost 
stretch of his powers, to improve the physical and 
moral condition of its citizens. 

A particular description of the city is not neces- 
sary. Its favorable location for foreign and domes- 
tic trade, and vast resources, are well known. One 
thing was new to me. It contains about half a doz- 
en large cotton presses, entirely occupied in com- 
pressing bales of cotton. Those intended for a for- 
eign market, are made to occupy one half of their 
original space ; so that a vessel can carry double the 
quantity it otherwise might. The large number of 
bales shipped from this port, makes this an exten- 
sive business. The charge for compressing is seven- 
ty-five cents a bale. Bales designed for the north- 
ern ports, do not undergo this operation, but are ship- 
ped as they come from the hands of the planter. 

New-Orleans has three extensive markets ; two 
for flesh, and one for vegetables. I walked through 
them all, and thought the city was abundantly sup- 
plied with provisions, and of a good quality. Al- 
though it was January, the vegetable market was 
supplied with melons, green peas, radishes, lettuce, 
&c. And boats frequently landed, with cart loads 
of oranges, fresh from the trees. Fish are neither 
abundant nor of a fine flavor. 



AND TEXAS. 235 

On the opposite side of the river, are the ship- 
yards ; but they seem to be more occupied in re- 
pairs, than in building new vessels. Here is a small 
village of a dozen houses, a grog shop and a tavern. 
A steam ferry boat constantly plies across the river, 
iand appears to have a plenty of business. 

The city is connected with lake Pontchartrain, by 
a canal for small vessels, and a railroad. The dis- 
tance is five miles. Steamboats regularly run from 
the end of the railroad, to Mobile and other ports. 
New-Orleans has no wharves. It would be more 
convenient in loading vessels to have them ; but 
they cannot be built on a foundation sufficiently 
firm to withstand the strong current of the Missis- 
sippi. A few years ago a wharf was built ; but it 
was soon undermined, and sunk in the stream. 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

After remaining in the city four days, I procured 
a passage on board a brig bound to Boston, and 
sailed down the river. In about two miles, we pass- 
ed the nunnery — a pleasant looking building, sur- 
rounded by an extensive grove of orange trees. 
Five miles from the city, we came to the famous 
battle ground, where Gen. Jackson, and his brave 



236 TRIP TO THE WEST 

associates "planted a British colony." But this is a 
matter of history. All the indications of a battle 
now remaining, are scars of balls on one or two 
trees. 

The large plantations, on both sides of the river, 
w^ere all alive with negroes, cutting cane and trans- 
porting it to the steam mills to make sugar. It ap- 
pears to me, that slavery sits lighter on the negro 
race, than it would on any other human beings. — 
They are, generally, cheerful, and appear to be in- 
clined to make the best of their situation. Much 
injustice, and many wrongs- have been done to the 
African race. They were torn from their homes, 
their friends, and their country — carried to a distant 
land, and sold to hopeless, irremediable slavery. The 
original kidnappers have much to answer for. 

But the case is now somewhat changed. Neither 
the masters nor the slaves, now upon the stage, are 
the parties to the original transaction. Slavery has 
existed for a long series of years ; and the present 
owners of slaves obtained possession of them either 
by descent, or by purchase. They came into their 
possession, slaves ; they did not change their condi- 
tion. The only fault, therefore, they are justly 
chargeable v/ith, is the continuance of slavery. — 
How far culpable the slaveholder may be in this par- 
ticular, I shall not undertake to decide, any more 
than I would the degree of guilt justly chargeable 
to a Mussulman, for believing Mahomet to be a true 
prophet. 



AND TEXAS. 237 

In all the publications ajad lectures which I have 
seen and heard upon slavery, it appears to me, that 
in regard to the present owners of slaves, the sub- 
ject is not viewed in its true light. Slavery is stated 
to be a great evil; and therefore, slaveholders are 
great criminals. However well this may sound in 
logic, it does not sound well in morals. But there 
is another inference drawn from the premises — that 
it is the duty of the inhabitants in the non-slave- 
holding States, to get up a crusade against the slave- 
holders. Not with swords and guns to be sure ; but 
to give them a bad name, render them odious in the 
estimation of mankind, and to continue a general 
warfare upon their characters. This is, indeed, the 
worst kind of warfare. Better take property or life; 
for what of value has a man left when deprived of 
his "good name?" To this, I shall be answered, 
that it is proper to call things by their right names — 
a spade ought to be called a spade ; and a criminal 
ought to be called a criminal. So far as it applies 
to slavery, I have two plain replies to make. In the 
tirst place, it is assuming too much to call a slave- 
holder a criminal, under the peculiar circumstances 
of the case ; and secondly, if the fact were so, it is 
not always good policy to bring accusations against 
an individual, if the object be to reform him. 

It is a good maxim in law, and in religion too, 
that even the truth is only to be spoken from a good 
motive and a justifiable end. For the peace and 
well-being of society, facts are not to be stated. 



238 TRIP TO THE WEST 

merely to outrage the feelings of another, and to 
gratify the spleen of the speaker. Now, I would 
respectfully ask, what good can come of picking up 
all the tales concerning cruelty to slaves whether 
true or false, and proclaiming them in the most im- 
posing form upon the house top, to a non-slavehold- 
ing audience? Every new case of cruelty is seized 
upon Vi'ith avidity, and exultingly paraded before the 
public. This looks a little too pharisaical. 'Lord 
I thank thee that I am not as other men are ; nor 
like unto these wicked slaveholders,' seems to beam 
from some men's countenances. 

Is it not in accordance with the christian religion, 
if a brother offend, to go privately to him, and tell 
him his fault ? Now, if the obiect be to emancipate 
the slaves, go to the slaveholder himself, and en- 
deavor to satisfy hijn that slavery in itself is evil ; 
and, on a view of the whole ground, it is safe, prac- 
ticable, and beneficial to the slaves to be set free. — ■ 
To the objection, that it would be unsafe to go 
among slaveholders for such a purpose, I reply, 
that missionaries are sent among the Indians of the 
Vv^est, the heathen of the East, and in the islands of 
the sea ; and can it be deem.ed more dangerous to go 
among the slaveholding citizens of the United States, 
than among them ? It cannot be pretended. The 
fact is a man may travel through the slaveholding 
States with perfect safety, provided he carry the de- 
portment of a gentleman, and discuss the subject 



AND TEXAS. 239 

of slavery, as all such subjects ought to be, in a de- 
cent and respectful manner. 

Of this, I cannot doubt, from my own experience 
m the matter. During a residence of three years in 
a slavehoiding Statfe, and in my various excursions 
among the planters, I uniformly found liospitable 
and kind treatment ; and a readiness to discuss the 
subject of slavery with the same freedom that they 
would any other. 

It would be a very good plan for our lecturers on 
slavery, to travel through the southern States, and 
see for themselves the true condition of the master 
and slave. Their censures of their southern breth- 
ren might be softened down a little ; and they would 
sometimes feel more inclined to pity than upbraid. 
They would find the emancipation of slaves not 
new, or unthought of, by the people of the South ; 
that it is a subject, which has engaged their anxious 
thoughts, and caused much private and public dis- 
cussion. The southerners arc more willing to eman- 
cipate their slaves, than our northern people gener- 
ally suppose ; but the great question is, how can it 
with safety be done ? Some of our northern peo- 
ple would decide this off hand. Only say "&e /ree," 
and it is done. But the slaveholder believes, there 
are many things to be taken into consideration — 
self preservation, good order of society and the con- 
dition of the emancipated slave, are all to be regard- 
ed and weighed, before freedom is granted. 



240 TRIP TO THE WEST 

But I believe the slaveholders do injustice to the 
character of the negroes in one particular. If they 
were all emancipated to-day, I believe there would 
be no attempts made to murder the whites, as ha^ 
been supposed. They are naturally a friendly, 
confiding race— neither ungrateful, nor insensible to 
kind treatment. When they have a good master^ 
and there are many such, they become very much 
attached to him ; and would unhesitatingly, risk 
their lives in his defence. 

I have been in the fields, where hundreds of 
slaves were at work, and conversed with them. — > 
They appeared to be well clothed and fed, and had 
an easy task. I thought them to be as lively, gay 
and happy as any set of beings on earth. 

They are very fond of music, and display a good 
deal of ingenuity, in adapting songs to their various 
kinds of work and recreations. Many a night, I 
have raised my window, sat down and listened for 
hours, to the melody of their voices, in singing 
their harvest songs, around a pile of corn. 

But the danger lies, in turning loose upon the 
world, a race of beings, without houses, lands, or 
any kind of property ; who are ignorant, gay and 
thoughtless, and entirely unused to provide for them- 
selves. How preposterous the idea ! What ration- 
al man would think of it ? They must beg, steal, 
plunder, or starve. If the slaves be emancipated, it 
must be the work of time ; and provision must be 
made, temporarily at least, for their support. 



AND TEXAS. 241 

But it is urged, that holding in bondage a human 
being, is wrong, and therefore, he ought to be set 
at liberty immediately. A person cannot do right, 
or repent of evil, too soon. As this applies to the 
slave, it may be false reasoning from just premises. 
Although it might be wrong for the eagle to catch 
the mole, and bear him aloft into the air, yet would 
it be right, then to let him go, when he knew the 
fall would dash him to pieces ? The setting at lib- 
erty in such a case, would only be inevitable de- 
struction. It would therefore be right, and not 
tcrong, to retain possession, until liberty could be 
granted in safety. 

That many individuals are justly chargeable with 
cruelty to their slaves, there can be no doubt. — 
Their condition is better in the old, than in the new 
States. But it appeared to me, that many of the 
acts of cruelty were negligently suffered by the mas- 
ter to be done, rather than inflicted by him. They 
are too apt to entrust their servants in the hands of 
ignorant overseers, who punish without judgment or 
mercy. 

A planter informed me, he was riding along by 
his field one day, and observing the overseer was pre- 
paring to flog a negro, he rode up to enquire into 
the cause of the punishment. He was informed the 
negro would not work, alleging he was sick. — 
He asked the overseer if he had ascertained that the 
negro was not sick. He replied no ; for he presum- 
ed it was only a pretence to get rid of work. He 

21 



242 TRIP TO THE WEST 

went up to the negro, examined his pulse and 
tongue, and found he had a high fever. He told the 
negro to take a horse from the plough, and ride 
home, and he would come directly and see he was 
properly attended to. He then turned to the over- 
seer, and told him he was not a suitable man to have 
the care of human beings — and discharged him on 
the spot. 

In Texas, I saw a negro chained in a baggage 
wagon, for the purpose of carrying him home to his 
master. He told me he ran away from him, three 
months previous, and had all that time lived in the 
woods, and obtained his food by hunting. He said 
his master was a cruel man, flogged him unmerci- 
fully, made him work hard, and did not feed or clothe 
him well. At night, an axe happened to be left in 
the wagon, and he liberated himself and escaped* 
On enquiry, I found the negro's story to be true.-^ 
The master was all he had represented him to be, 
and his conduct was generally reprobated by the 
people. As I was walking on the sea shore, I again 
came across the negro. He recognized me at once ; 
came to me, and begged that I would take him with 
me ; and said he would willingly labor for me all 
the days of his life ; but he could not return to his 
master. This I could not do ; but was obliged to 
leave the negro to his fate. 

There are many hardships and cruelties incidental 
to a state of slavery ; but the cruel master is as 
much despised and reprobated in his own immediate 



AND TEXAS. 243 

neighborhood, as elsewhere. It Is now unpopular 
every where, to ill-treat the slave. His condition 
has generally improved ; and the yoke is often made 
to sit so light, that it is neither felt nor thought of. 
But still slavery in its mildest form is attended with 
many moral, as w^ell as physical evils; is wrong in 
principle, and contrary to the spirit of our free insti- 
tutions : and I earnestly hope, that this dark spot on 
Freedom's bright banner may soon be blotted out 
forever. 

But to effect such a great object as this, will re- 
quire the wisdom and aid of the North and the South 
combined. Let "the North give up and the South 
keep not back ;*' let them amicably take counsel 
together ; and devise some plan in which the rights, 
interests and feelings of all parties are nicely balan- 
ced and duly regarded. 

But I see no way in which slavery can be abolish- 
ed without the aid of the slaveholders. This kind 
of property is guaranteed to them by the supreme 
law of the land, and to give it up, must be a volun- 
tary act. It appears to me, the course things are 
now taking at the North, instead of winning the aid 
of the South, tends directly to brace them against 
emancipation. It appears to the South, as an offi- 
cious interference in their affairs, in the most offen- 
sive form. 

What would we think, if the South should em- 
ploy a scavenger, to pick up all the private and pub- 
Jic acts of cruelty of the northern people ; such as 



244 TRIP TO THE WEST 

the whipping of the boy by Arnold, the starving to 
death of another by Fernald, &c. &c. &-c. ; and 
then, set up a press, expressly to blazon forth these 
cruelties; and hire itinerant lecturers to go about 
and proclaim to a southern audience, in the highest 
strains of impassioned eloquence, the wickedness, 
corruptions and enormities of the citizens of the 
North ! And say, they "had waited forty years" 
for the northern people to reform themselves ; which 
was time enough, and they would wait no longer. 
They, therefore, were justified in holding them up 
to the scorn and reproach of all human kind ! When 
the North knew, and all the world knew, they were 
no better than they should be at home ; that they 
had work of reform enough near at hand ; and that 
they had no legal right to interfere, and could have 
no legal action upon the subject. And although 
the avowed object was the reform of the northern 
people, yet they kept aloof from them, and hurled 
their poisoned arrows at a distance, alleging that 
they might in their patriotic zeal, so much arouse 
their indignation, that it would be unsafe to go 
near them. What would northern people say to 
all this ! Should we say, go on, brethren ! God 
speed! Or should we say, this is mean, cowardly 
business — empty boasting — gasconade ! These peo- 
ple may not, indeed, be guilty of this particular 
thing of which they accuse us ; and that is the 
very reason why they choose this subject for accu- 
sation — why they walk so proudly erect — ring all 



AND TEXAS. 245 

the changes and make the most of it. It is to tri- 
umph over us, and build up themselves on our ruins. 
There is in truth, a worse kind than negro slavery — 
when a man becomes a slave to his own unhallow- 
ed, vindictive passions. 

Much injustice has been done the southern peo- 
ple. Those who have travelled and dwelt among 
them, bear testimony to their high-mindedness, kind- 
ness and hospitality. They scorn to do an act of 
meanness ; or to enter upon the broad field of scan- 
dal. And although their strong sensibility may 
sometimes lead them into error, yet in all the virtues 
which ennoble man, they might not suffer in a com- 
parison with the North. If we choose to bring rail- 
ing accusations against them ; they may not descend 
to recriminate but leave us the undisputed occu- 
pants of the ground we have chosen. And we may 
have the sore mortification at last to find, we have 
uttered anathemas in vain ; and brought nothing to 
any desirable result — that we have toiled hard, and 
effected nothing, but our own humiUation and dis- 
grace. 

But I must leave the subject of negro slavery. — ■ 
Perhaps I have dwelt too long upon it already to 
comport with the design of this book. It is a great 
and an important subject ; and to do it justice would 
require a volume. It is my solemn conviction how- 
ever, that for the northern people to effect any 
thing, towards the freedom of the African race, 
jmpch prudence must be exercised, and conciliatory 

21* 



24B TRIP TO THE WEST 

measures adopted ; so as to enlist the undivided 
energies of the South in the great work of emanci- 
pation. 



CHAPTER XXVII. 

The river Mississippi, which imparts a name and 
character to the great valley of the West, deserves 
something more than a mere passing notice. — 
When the fertility and extent of the region through 
which it passes, are taken into consideration,togeth- 
er with the magnitude of itself and its numerous 
branches, it way well be pronounced the noblest 
river on the face of the globe. 

Contrary to the general analogy of other large 
rivers, it directs its course from north to south. It 
rises in about the forty-eighth degree of north lati- 
tude, in a region having the aspect of a vast marshy 
valley. Its commencement is in many streams, issuing 
principally from wild rice lakes, and proceeds but a 
short distance before it becomes a large river. Some- 
times, it moves silently and imperceptibly along, 
over a wide and muddy channel — at others, it glides 
briskly onward, over a sandy bottom, its waters 
almost as transparent as air — and again it becomes 
compressed to a narrow channel between high and 



AND TEXAS. 247 

hoary limestone cliffs, and it foams and roars, as it 
violently lashes the projecting rocks, and struggles 
through. 

The falls of St. Anthony, following the meanders 
of the stream, are three hundred miles from its 
source. At this place, the river is about half a 
mile wide, and falls in a perpendicular and unbro- 
ken sheet, between seventeen and eighteen feet. — 
Above the mouth of the Missouri, it receives many 
large tributaries, the most considerable of which are 
the Ouisconsin and Illinois from the east, and the 
Des Moines, from the west. 

A httle below thirty nine degrees, comes in the 
mighty Missouri from the west, which is a longer 
stream, and carries more water than the Mississippi 
itself. This is the largest tributary stream in the 
world ; and from the facts, that it has a longer 
course, carries more water than the Mississippi, and 
gives its own peculiar character to the stream below 
their junction, many have supposed it ought to have 
given its name to the united stream and to the val- 
ley. In opposition to this claim, it may be stated, 
that the valley of the Missouri, in the grand scale 
of conformation, appears to be secondary to that of 
the Mississippi — it has not the general direction of 
that river, but joins it nearly at right angles — the 
Mississippi valley is wider than that of the Missouri, 
and the river is broader, and the direction of the 
valley and river is the same above and below the 
junction. From these considerations, it appears to 



^48 TRIP TO THE WEST 

.me, that the Mississippi rightfully gives its name to 
the united stream, and to the great valley, from its 
gource to the sea. 

The Missouri rises in the Rocky Mountains, near- 
ly in the same parallel with the Mississippi. It 
is formed by three branches, which unite near the 
base of the principal ranges of mountains, which 
severally bear the names of Jefferson, Gallatin and 
Madison. The head waters of some of these, are 
^o near to those of the Columbia on the other side 
pf the mountains, that a person may drink of the 
waters of each, in travelling not more than a mile. 
After the junction of these three streams, the river 
^continues on a foaming mountain torrent. It then 
spreads into a broader stream, and comparatively of 
^ gentler current, and is full of islands. 

The river, then, passes through what are called 
^'The Gates of the Rocky Mountains." The river 
.appears to have torn for itself a passage through the 
mountain. For the distance of six miles, perpen- 
dicular cliffs of dark colored rock, rise twelve hun- 
dred feet above the stream which washes their base ! 
The chasm is not more than three hundred feet 
wide, and the deep, foaming waters rush through, 
with the speed of a race-horse. In no situation in 
life, does man so keenly feel his own imbecility and 
nothingness, as when viewing such terrible results of 
A war between the elements of nature. This is the 
most imposing and grand spectacle of the kind, to 
be found on the globe ; and in the deep solitude of 



AND TEXAS. 249 

the wilderness, its aspect is peculiarly awful and 
terrific. The mountain scenery on the Hudson 
near West Point ; and the passage of the Potomac 
through the Blue Ridge, sink into utter insignifi- 
cance, when compared to the rush of the Missouri, 
through "The Gates of the Rocky Mountains."— 
The mountains here, have an aspect of inexpressi- 
ble loneliness and grandeur. Their summits are 
covered with a stinted growth of pines and cedars, 
among which, are seen mountain sheep, bounding 
along at heights apparently inaccessible. 

For the distance of seventeen miles, the stream 
then becomes almost a continued cataract. The 
whole perpendicular descent in this distance, is 
three hundred and sixty-two feet. The first fall is 
ninety-eight feet — the second, nineteen — the third, 
forty-seven — and the fourth, twenty-six. The riv- 
er continues rapid, a number of miles below ; it 
then assumes its distinctive character — sweeps brisk- 
ly along in regular curves, by lime-stone bluffs, 
boundless prairies and dense forests, to its junction 
with the Mississippi. It has a current of four miles 
an hour ; but is navigable for steamboats the dis- 
tance of twenty-five hundred miles. 

The tributaries of Missouri are many important 
and large rivers ; but our space will not permit a 
particular description of them. The most consid- 
erable of them, are the Yellow Stone, La Platte and 
the Osage. The Ycllov/ Stone rises in the same 
range of mountains with the main river, to which 



^50 TRIP TO THE WEST 

it has many points of resemblance. It enters the 
Missouri from the south, eighteen hundred miles 
above its mouth, and is eight hundred and fifty yards 
wide. It is a broad deep river, sixteen hundred 
miles in length, boatable, one thousand ; and at the 
junction, appears to be the larger stream. Its shores 
are heavily timbered, its bottoms are wide, and of 
the richest soil. Its entrance has been selected by 
the government, as a suitable spot for a military post, 
and an extensive settlement. 

The La Platte also rises in the Rocky mountains, 
enters from the south, and, measured by its mean- 
ders, has a course of two thousand miles. It is 
nearly a mile wide at its mouth ; but, as its name 
imports, is a shallow stream, and not navigable, ex- 
cept at the high floods. 

The Osage enters from the south and is a large 
and important stream of the Missouri. It is boat- 
able for six hundred miles, and its head waters in- 
terlock with those of the Arkansas. 

The Gasconade enters from the south also,is not 
a large river, but is boatable for sixty miles, and is 
important for having on its banks extensive pine 
forests, from which St. Louis and St. Charles are 
supplied with lumber. 

The Missouri is a longer river than the Missis- 
sippi, measured from its highest source to the Gulf 
jof Mexico ; and although it carries less than half 
the breadth of that stream, it brings down a larger 
quantity of water. It is at all times turbid ; ancl 



AND TEXAS. 25 1 

its prodigious length of course, impetuous current, 
the singular and wild character of the country- 
through which it runs, impart to it a natural gran- 
deur, truly subhme. 

In latitude thirty-six and a half degrees, the 
Mississippi receives from the east, the celebrated and 
beautiful Ohio. This is, by far, the largest eastern 
tributary of the Mississippi ; and at the junction, 
and a hundred miles above, it is as wide as the pa- 
rent stream. If the Mississippi rolls along its 
sweeping and angry waters, in more majesty — the 
Ohio far exceeds it in beauty, and in its calm, unbro- 
ken course. No river in the world moves along 
the same distance, in sUch an uniform, smooth and 
peaceful current. The river is formed by the junc- 
tion of the Alleghany and Monongahela at Pitts- 
burgh. The Ohio, at this place, is about six hun- 
dred yards wide, and it immediately assumes a 
broad and beautiful aspect which continues in its 
whole course, to the Mississippi. Beautiful and ro- 
mantic streams come in, at nearly equal distances — < 
its bottoms are of an extraordinary depth and fertil-- 
ity — and the configuration on its banks, has all that- 
softness, grandeur and variety, still changing and 
recurring in such endless combinations, as to render 
a voyage down it, at all times pleasant and delight^ 
ful. From Pittsburgh to the Mississippi, the dis^- 
tance is eleven hundred and fifty miles ; and be^ 
tween these points, are more than a hundred isl^ 
ands 'j some of which, are of exquisite beauty, and 



252 TRIP TO THE WEST 

afford most pleasant situations for cottages and 
farms. 

The valley of the Ohio is deep, varying from^ 
two to ten miles ; and is bounded in the whole 
distance by bluffs, sometimes towering sublimely 
from the river bank ; at others, receding two or 
three miles from them. Beyond these, are a sin- 
gular line of hills, more or less precipitous, which 
are familiarly called the "Ohio hills." The bottoms, 
of the Ohio are heavily timbered, and there are na 
where on its banks the slightest indications of prai- 
rie. 

It would be difficult to decide at what season of 
the year, the Ohio has the most interesting and 
beautiful appearance — in the spring, when its high 
floods sweep along with irresistible power, and the 
red-bud and other early blossoms enliven its banks 
— or in autumn, when it passes quietly along, show- 
ing its broad and clean sand bars, and its pebbly 
bottom, through waters transparent as air — and 
when the withering leaves of the forest are painted 
in golden and scarlet colors along its shores. It is 
at all times, an interesting river, and probably, no 
other stream in the world can vie with it, both in 
utility and beauty. 

Below the Ohio, the most important tributaries 
of the Mississippi, are White river, Arkansas and 
Pted Rivers — all entering the stream from the west. 
White river rises in the Black mountains, which sep- 
arate its waters from those of the Arkansas j and 



AND TEXAS. 253 

after traversing a distance of twelve hundred miles, 
enters the Mississippi by a mouth, nearly four hun- 
dred yards wide. The Arkansas next to the Mis- 
souri, the largest tributary from the west, is twen- 
ty-five hundred miles in length, and is five hundred 
yards wide at its mouth. Its waters are at all 
times turbid, and when the river is full, are of a dark 
flame color. 

Eighty miles below Natchez, comes in Red Riv- 
er ; and although it is not generally so wide as the 
Arkansas, yet it has as long a course, and probably, 
carries as much water. Its waters are always tur- 
bid, and of a deeper red than those of the Arkan- 
sas. After receiving Red River, the Mississippi 
carries its greatest volume of water. This, how- 
ever, continues but for a short distance. Three or 
four miles below the mouth of Red River, and on 
the same side, is the first outlet of the Mississippi. 
This is called Atchafalaya ; and probably it car- 
ries oflf as much water as the Red River brings in. — - 
But one small river enters the Mississippi below its 
first outlet. This is on the east side, and is called 
the Bayou Sarah. The only eastern outlet is a 
short distance below Baton Rouge. This is called 
Ibberville, and it passes off the waters of the Mis- 
sissippi into lake Maurepas. On the west side are 
two more considerable outlets, called Bayou Pla- 
quemine, and Bayou La Fourche. The Mississip- 
pi, then, passes on by New-Orleans, between un- 
broken banks, and discharges the remainder of its 

22 



254 TRIP TO THE WEST 

waters, through four mouths, into the Gulf of Mex- 
ico. 

The Mississippi is navigable for steam-boats to 
the falls of St. Anthony — a distance of twenty-two 
hundred miles. These falls, although they have 
not the slightest claim to be compared with the cel- 
ebrated Niagara, in sublimity and grandeur ; yet 
they are interesting and impressive in the solitude 
and loneliness of the wilderness. As the traveller 
gazes at the romantic scenery around him, and lis- 
tens to the solemn roar of the falls, as it echoes 
along the shores of the river, and dies away in the 
distant forest; a thrilling story is told him of the 
love and tragical end of a young Dacota Indian 
woman, whose husband had deserted her, and ta- 
ken another squaw for his wife. Being a woman 
of keen sensibility and unconquerable attachment, 
in a moment of anguish and despair, she took her 
little children with her in a canoe, and chanted her 
song of love and broken vows, until they were swept 
over the falls, and engulfed in the waters below.— 
The Indians are too fond of romance, not to make 
the most of such an affecting incident as this. — 
They believe her spirit still hovers round the spot, 
and that her fair form is seen on bright sunny morn- 
ings, pressing her babes to her bosom, and that her 
voice is heard, mourning the inconstancy of her 
husband, amid the roaring of the waters ! 

Below these falls, the river swells to half a mile 
in width and becomes a placid, gentle and clear 



AND TEXAS. 255 

stream, with clean sand bars, and wide and fertile 
bottoms. There is a rapid of nine miles, com- 
mencing just below the entrance of the river Des 
Moines. This impedes the progress of large 
steamboats, during low stages of the water. Be- 
low this rapid, the Mississippi obtains its full width, 
being a mile from bank to bank ; and it carries 
this width to the mouth of the Missouri. 

The Mississippi, above the junction, is a more 
beautiful stream even than the Ohio, somewhat 
more gentle in its current and a third wider. At 
every Httle distance, the traveller finds a beautiful 
island ; and sometimes two or three, parallel to 
each other. Altogether, in its alternate bluffs and 
prairies — the calmness and transparency of its wa- 
ters — ^the vigor and grandeur of the vegetation on 
its banks — it has an aspect of amenity and magnifi- 
cence, which does not belong in the same extent 
to any other stream. 

The Missouri enters by a mouth not more than 
half a mile wide ; and the medial width of the 
united stream to the entrance of the Ohio, is about 
three quarters of a mile, from thence to the sea the 
medial width is a mile. This mighty tributary, ra- 
ther diminishes than adds to its width ; but it per- 
ceptibly increases its depth ; and what is to be re- 
gretted, wholly changes its character. The Missis- 
sippi is the gentle, clear and beautiful stream no 
more. It borders more on the terrible and sublime, 
than the serene and beautiful, from the junction to 



256 TRIP TO THE WEST 

its mouth. The Mississippi flows gently onward, 
at the rate of not more than two miles an hour — 
the turbid Missouri pours down upon it its angry 
flood, at the rate of four miles an hour, and adds 
its own speed and pecuHar character to the united 
stream. The Mississippi then becomes a turbid 
and furious mass of sweeping waters ; having a boil- 
ing current, shding banks and jagged shores. 

A person, who merely takes a cursory view of the 
river, hardly forms an adequate idea of the amount of 
water it carries. Were he to descend from the falls 
of St. Anthony, and behold the Mississippi swal- 
lowing up the mighty Missouri, the broad Ohio, the 
St. Francis, White, Arkansas, and Red River, to- 
gether with a hundred other large rivers of great 
length of course and depth of waters, without ap- 
parently increasing its size, he begins to estimate 
rightly the increased depth, and vast volume of wa- 
ter, that must roll on, in its deep channel to the sea. 

In the spring floods, the usual rise of the river 
above the mouth of the Missouri, is fifteen feet ; 
from that point to the mouth of the Ohio, it is 
twenty-five feet ; below the Ohio, it is fifty feet ; 
and, sometimes, even sixty. In the region of 
Natchez, the flood begins to subside. At Baton 
Rouge, it seldom exceeds thirty feet ; and at New- 
Orleans it is only twelve. This declination of the 
flood, towards the mouth of the river, is caused by 
the many outlets which take off" much of its surplus 
water, and conduct it in separate channels to the 



AND TEXAS. 257 

sea. Were It not for this free egi'ess of the Missis- 
sippi floods, the whole counrty below Baton Rouge, 
would become too much inundated to be habitable. 

Respecting the face of the country through 
which the river passes, it may be remarked, that, 
from its source to the falls of St. Anthony, it moves 
on through wild rice lakes, lime-stone bluffs and 
craggy hills ; and occasionally, through deep pine 
forests and beautiful prairies. For more than a hun- 
dred miles above the mouth of the Missouri, it would 
be difficult to convey a just idea of the beauty of 
the prairies which skirt the stream. They strike 
the eye as a perfect level ; covered, in summer, 
with a luxuriant growth of tall grass, interwoven 
with a great variety of beautiful flowers ; without a 
tree or shrub in their whole extent. When this 
deep prairie comes in to the river, on one side, a 
heavy timbered bottom bounds it on the other. — ■ 
From the smallest elevation, the sweep of the bluffs, 
generally corresponding to the curves of the river, 
are seen in the distance, mixing with the blue arch 
of the sky. 

The medial width of the river bottoms, above 
the mouth of the Missouri, is six miles ; thence, to 
the entrance of the Ohio, it is about eight miles ; 
and from this point to New-Orleans, the Mississippi 
swamp varies from thirty to fifty miles. The last 
stone bluflfs, seen in descending the river, are thirty 
lyiiles above the mouth of the Ohio. 

22* 



258 TRIP TO THE WEST 

Below the Ohio, the high banks are generally 
composed of a reddish clay. The river almost in- 
variably, keeps the nearest to the eastern shore, 
leaving much the largest portion of its sw^amp on 
its west side ; but, sometimes, on the east, the river 
is about twenty miles from the high bank on that 
side. It continually moves in a circle ; alternately 
sweeping to the right, and then to the left. These 
sections of circles, measured from point to point, 
vary from six to twelve miles ; but it sometimes 
makes almost a complete circle. In one instance, 
it sweeps round the distance of thirty miles, and 
comes within a mile of completing the circle, and 
meeting its own channel again. Although the 
stream hurries on with the speed of a giant, yet it 
does not seem to be really in earnest to "go ahead." 
It appears to be more disposed to gambol about, 
and display its power in its own ample bottom, 
than to pass directly on, to its destined port. Like 
an overgrown and froward child, its sportiveness is 
dangerous and destructive. It makes terrible havoc 
w ith every thing with which it comes in contact. 
It tears up large quantities of earth in one place, 
and deposites it in another. It undermines its own 
bank, and lets acres of stately forest trees shde in- 
to its deep channel — it wears away its deep bends, 
so a's to make its course still more and more circuit- 
ous — and again, as if it were tired of its own spor^ 
tiveness in harrassing the forest, it cuts through the 
small segment of a circle remaining, leaves a long 



AND TEXAS. 259 

bend of still water, and its jaded shores at rest. 
The river, in its serpentine course, hits the high 
bank at twelve different places, on the eastern shore. 
These are, at the Iron banks, Chalk banks, the three 
Chickasaw bluffs, Memphis, Walnut hills. Grand 
and Petit gulf, Natchez, Loftus heights, and Baton 
Rouge. At only one place, it comes in contact 
with the high bluff on the western side ; and this 
is at the St. Francis hills. 

Although the river is a mile in width, yet it is so 
serpentine in its course, that a person travelling upon 
it, can see but a few miles ahead. The strongest 
current is next the concave shore ; and here also is 
the deepest water. A third part of the river meas- 
ured in a direct line across it, would average eighty 
feet in depth, from thence it grows more and more 
shoal to the other shore. 

In the spring flood, the Mississippi overflows the 
whole bottom, so that then, it becomes a stream fif- 
ty miles in width. It shows a breadth of a mile 
only, and the remainder is concealed from the eye, 
by the dense forest which broods over it. The 
mud and sand, brought down by the flood, depos- 
ites itself the most freely, near the river ; so that 
the highest part of the bottom will be next the 
stream. In the time of the flood, the water barely 
covers the immediate shore of the river ; from thence 
the water becomes deeper and deeper towards the 
bluff which bounds the bottom. The depth of the 
flood, then, may be thus stated — the channel, one 



260 TRIP TO THE WEST 

hundred and thirty feet — its immediate bank bare- 
ly covered with water, and next to the bluffs, which 
may be twenty miles from the channel, from twelve 
to twenty feet in depth. When the flood in a 
measure subsides, the sad havoc its waters have 
made begins to appear. Huge piles of flood wood, 
wrecks of flat boats, and occasionally, of animals, 
are thrown together in one promiscuous mass. The 
stream is filled with snags and sawyers. And the 
destruction of its immediate banks is still going on. 
The deep and solemn sound of land slips are often 
heard. Acres of the stately forest are precipitated 
into the river, new channels are made, many islands 
are formed ; and the steamboat pilot, who had be- 
come a complete master of the intricate mazes of 
the channel, finds, that he must learn his lesson 
over again. 

All of the hundred rivers that form the Missis- 
sippi, at the time of high water, are more or less 
turbid ; but at low water some of them are clear. — 
The Upper Mississippi is quite transparent, but its 
waters are slightly of a blackish color. The Mis- 
souri is at all times turbid. It is of a whitish col- 
or, resembhng water mixed with fresh ashes ; and 
it gives its own color to the stream below its mouth. 
The Ohio is clear, but its waters have the appear- 
ance of being slightly tinged with green. The 
Arkansas and Red River are at all times as tur- 
bid as the Missouri, but their waters are of a bright 
redish color. After the Mississippi has received 



AND TEXAS. 261 

these two rivers, it loses something of its whiteness, 
and becomes slightly tinged with red. 

The Mississippi, in show of surface, will hardly 
compare with the St. Lawrence ; but, undoubtedly, 
it carries the greatest mass of water, according to 
its width, of any river on the face of the globe. — 
From the large quantity of earth it holds in sus- 
pension, and continually deposites along its banks, 
it will always be confined within a narrow and deep 
channel. Were it a clear stream, it would soon 
scoop out for itself a wide channel, from bluff to 
bluff. In common with most of its great tributa- 
ries, it widens as it ascends; being wider above the 
mouth of the Missouri, with a tenth part of its wa- 
ter, than it is in the region of New-Orleans. In 
the same manner, Arkansas and Red River are wi- 
der, a thousand miles up their streams, than they 
are at their mouths. 

No thinking mind can view with indifference, the 
mighty Mississippi, as it sweeps round its bends 
from point to point, and rolls on its resistless wave, 
through dark forests, in lonely grandeur to the sea. 
The hundred shores laved by its waters — the long 
course of its tributaries ; some of which are already 
the abodes of cultivation, and others pursuing en 
immense course without a soHtary dwelHng of civ- 
ilized man — the numerous tribes of savages that 
now roam on their borders — the affecting and im- 
perishable traces of generations that are gone, leav- 
ing no other memorials of their existence, but their 



262 TRIP TO THE WEST 

Stately mounds, which rise at frequent intervals a- 
long the valley — the dim, but glorious anticipations 
of the future — these are subjects of deep thought 
and contemplation, inseparably connected with a 
view of this wonderful river. 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 

We were three days sailing down the river. Just 
at night the pilot came aboard, took us over the bar 
at the southwest pass, and we put out to sea, with a 
strong fair wind from the northwest. The muddy 
waters of the Mississippi are seen far out to sea, 
even after you lose sight of the land. There was 
another passenger besides myself; and the violent 
rolUng of the vessel soon made us dreadfully sea- 
sick. This, with me, lasted but three days ; but the 
other passenger was sick during the whole voyage, 
and suffered incalculable pain and distress. 

There are many things disagreeable to a landsman 
in a voyage at sea. And in the first place, the roll- 
ing of the vessel. This is always disagreeable, but 
often it is so vehement that you cannot stand, walk 
or sit without much caution and trouble. While 
food is eaten, you must hold on to the plate with 
one hand, and wield the knife with the other, and 



AND TEXAS. 263 

this is often done at the imminent hazard of " mar- 
ring the corners" of the mouth. Sometimes, in 
spite of all exertion, a sudden lurch will throw you 
off the balance, and you get a bowl of hot coffee in 
your lap. And then, at night, you are tossed to and 
fro in the berth, so that you cannot soundly sleep, 
and arise in the morning more fatigued than when 
you laid down. 

And this motion of the vessel produces seasick- 
ness — an affliction exceedingly grievous to be borne. 
I had been seasick ten or a dozen times in my life, 
and this was the third time on my present tour; 
and I tried all the precautionary means I had ever 
heard of, but without any beneficial effect. Could 
any effectual remedy be discovered, it would save a 
vast amount of human distress. 

The shoreless ocean, seen day after day, affords 
but a dull and barren prospect to a landsman. The 
only variety seems to be, when a storm arises; 
and then it puts on such a terrific form, that the 
sublimity of the scene cannot be fully enjoyed. We 
had a severe blow off the coast of Florida ; but the 
shivering of sails, and the mountains of foam dash- 
ing over our frail bark, caused fear to predominate 
over every other sensation. 

The complete and rapid change of the scene at 
sea, is sometimes very striking. We would be quietly 
sailing along with a gentle breeze, just enough to fill 
the sails, and keep the vessel in motion on her 
course; when all at once a violent squall arises, 



264 TRIP TO THE WEST 

suddenly strikes the ship, whizzes through the rig- 
ging, fills the sails to bursting, and drives her rapidly 
on, through billows of foam. The captain stands 
upon the quarter-deck, gives his orders through the 
speaking trumpet — the sailors run aloft, cling to the 
yards and take in sail. The contrast is indeed great. 
One moment, all is calm and quiet ; the next, all is 
uproar and confusion ; and could one feel entirely 
at ease, it would be a great source of amusement, 
during a long voyage. 

But a sailor's hfe is one of care, hardship, watch- 
fulness and anxiety. Our captain would walk the 
deck for hours, anxiously watching the whole circle 
of the horizon — the appearance of the clouds and 
the direction of the wind. Of a sudden, he would 
stop short, call all hands, order the light sails taken 
in, and close-reefed those that remained ; when to 
my unpractised eye, there was no cause of alarm, or 
appearance of a change of weather. But the result 
would invariably show the correctness of his opin- 
ion. In no one instance, did he prematurely take in 
sail, nor did the squall ever come and ^' catch him 
napping." 

The third day out, from the mouth of the river, 
we saw the highlands of Cuba. On the fifth, the 
Sand Key lighthouse, on the Florida shore. We 
saw no other land on the voyage, except a small isl- 
and on the Little Bahama Banks, until we came in 
full view of the village of Chatham, fifty miles south 
of Boston. The wind became fair, the weather thick 



AND TEXAS. 265 

and rainy. The next day, twenty miles out, the 
pilot came aboard, and we run safely into Boston 
harbor. We had been just twenty-five days from 
New-Orleans — a distance of twenty-five hundred 
miles. We had experienced all the varieties of a 
sea voyage — light winds, calms, strong breezes and 
storms — and now, with no small degree of pleasure, 
I again set my foot on terra Jir'ma. 

The following day, I took the stage and arrived 
home at Exeter ; having been absent about five 
months, and having travelled by land and water the 
distance of eight thousand miles. I passed over 
the whole route without arms, and at no time did 
I feel the need of any. I was uniformly well treat- 
ed ; and often received kind attentions, and formed 
many acquaintances whom I left with regret, and 
shall remember with gratitude. 

The weather had generally been mild and pleas- 
ant. The greatest indication of cold weather I 
found on the whole trip, was a slight frost. On 
returning at once to the region of severe cold weath- 
er, I found it exceedingly oppressive. Our north- 
ern winters are indeed long, severe and crabbed ; 
and were the people as crabbed as the chmate, life 
would become altogether intolerable. But the 
southern and western climate is far more bland and 
mild, and much more grateful to the feehngs, than 
ours ; and this, together with the facility of obtain- 
ing all the necessaries and conveniences of fife, in- 
duces me to believe that a much greater amount of 
comfort and happiness may there be enjoyed. 
23 



266 TRIP TO THE WEST 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

And now, from this spot, I may be allowed to 
take a hasty, retrospective glance at the great Wes- 
tern Country. It stretches from the Gulf of Mex- 
ico to the northern limits of the United States ; and 
from the Alleghany, to the Rocky mountains — a dis- 
tance of three thousand miles ; showing a broad 
surface of earth, equal in extent to the Atlantic 
ocean itself. Between these bold and primitive bar- 
riers, a country is exhibited, every where bearing the 
marks of a secondary formation. The valleys, bluffs 
and hills — the regular lamina of stone, strata of ma- 
rine shells, — and, indeed, all the physical aspects of 
the country, wear the appearance of once having 
been the bed of a vast lake, or an inland sea. 

From this circumstance of its recent formation, 
and the large quantities of decomposed lime stone 
mixed with the soil, result another attribute of this 
valley — its character of uncommon fertility. It is 
not indeed every where alike fertile. There are 
here, as else where, infinite varieties of soil, from 
the richest alluvions, to the most sterile flint knobs — 
from the impervious cane brakes, to the sandy pine 
hills. There are, too, towards the Rocky moun- 



AND TEXAS. 267 

tains, large tracts that have a surface of sterile sands, 
or covered only with a scanty vegetation of weeds 
and coarse grass. But of the country in general, 
the most cursory observer must have remarked, that, 
compared with lands in other regions apparently of 
the same character, these show marks of singular 
fertility. The most ordinary oak lands, will bring 
successive crops of Indian corn and wheat, with- 
out manuring, and with but little care of cultiva- 
tion. The pine lands, which appear so sterile to 
the eye, have in many places, produced good crops 
for years, without the aid of manure. 

There is another remarkable trait in the soil of 
this valley — its power to support vegetation under 
the severest drought. It is a fact so notorious that 
it has become proverbial, that if there be moisture 
enough to make the corn germinate and come up, 
there will be a good crop, if no rain fall until har- 
vest. The eastern emigrant witnesses with aston- 
ishment, the steady advance of his crop to vigorous 
maturity, under a pressure of drought, and a cloud- 
less ardor of sun, that must have parched up the 
fields, and destroyed vegetation at the East. 

The Alleghany mountains, which form the east- 
ern boundary of this great valley, are composed of 
many ridges, which run parallel to each other with 
remarkable regularity. The middle ridge is gener- 
ally the most elevated, and separates the waters of 
the Atlantic, from those that flow into the Missis- 
sippi. Soon after passing the summit of the prin- 



268 TRIP TO THE WEST 

cipal mountains, the waters of the Ohio begin to 
be heard, as they dash along over a precipitous and 
rocky channel, seeking a spot to escape from the 
craggy hills, to the plains below. 

After descending the last mountain ridge towards 
the valley, the country is still a succession of high 
hills, generally rounded smoothly down their sides, 
having more or less table land on their summits. — 
Those portions of Pennsylvania and Virginia, which 
belong to the Mississippi Valley ; the eastern parts 
of Ohio, Kentucky and Tennessee, are generally 
hilly, and sometimes even mountainous. In Ala- 
bama, the hills begin to subside. The features of 
the country too, begin, manifestly to change. The 
landscape wears a different aspect. Instead of the 
oaks, whitewood and sycamore, we begin to hear 
the breeze Eimong the tops of long leaved pines. — • 
A long succession of pine hills and fertile valleys suc- 
ceed each other ; the timber becoming less and less, 
until we meet the extensive prairies, or savannas of 
Florida. 

Approaching the lakes, the country becomes quite 
level. At the northern sections of Ohio, Indiana and 
Ilhnois, near the borders of the lakes, the surface, 
in some places, becomes so marshy and low, as to 
be covered, in winter and spring, with water from 
three or four inches to a foot in depth. The east- 
ern part of Ohio is hilly, but the western portion 
sensibly becomes more and more level. The Ohio 
river originally rolled on in its whole course, through 



AND TEXAS. 269 

an unbroken forest ; but as we approach the east- 
ern boundary of Indiana, we begin to discover the 
first indications of prairie. In the western part of 
the State of Ohio, small and detached prairies are 
only found. In Indiana, the proportion of prairie 
is far greater, and in Illinois it far exceeds the timber- 
ed land. North of the State of IlHnois, pine hills, 
ponds, marshes, woodland and prairie, alternate to 
the head waters of the Mississippi. 

The surface of the country west of the Missis- 
sippi, is generally much more level than the valley 
east of it. There are bluffs to be sure, often high 
and precipitous, near the courses of the large rivers ; 
and some portion of the country, near the Mississip- 
pi, is covered with flint knobs — singular hills of a 
conical shape, which, with a base of not more than 
a third of a mile in diameter, sometimes rise to the 
height of four or five hundred feet; and are cover- 
ed with coarse gravel and flint stones. There are 
also, as in the country between the St. Francis and 
White rivers, high hills, which might well be called 
mountains. A spur of the Alleghany mountains, 
seems to come in to the Mississippi at the Chicka- 
saw bluffs, and to be continued to the west of the 
river, in the St. Francis hills. But between the 
Mississippi and the Ptocky mountains, a distance of 
twenty-five hundred miles, the general surface of 
the country is one vast plain, probably the largest 
on the face of the globe. Except the bluffs of the 

riverS; and flint knobs, the whole surface is entirely 
23# 



S70 TBIP TO THE WEST "^ 

free from stones. On the lower courses of the Mis- 
souri, St. Francis, White, Arkansas and Red rivers, 
we find extensive bottoms of inexhaustible fertility 
Covered with a dense forest ; and occasionally a rich 
prairie, teeming with vegetation. But as we as-- 
cend these rivers, the timber becomes less and less, 
until, at last, we find the prairies coming in to the 
river banks. As the traveller recedes from the nar- 
row and fertile belt on the streams, he finds the prai- 
ries becoming more and more dry and sterile — desti- 
tute of wood and water, and, sometimes, of all vege- 
tation. He finds himself on a boundless waste of 
prairies ; stretching out before him, far beyond the 
reach of vision ; and here, he may wander for days, 
without finding either wood or water, and which- 
ever way he may turn his eyes, he beholds an ocean 
of grass bounding the horizon. In advancing west- 
ward, he, at length, catches a glimpse of the Rocky 
mountains, pencilled like clouds on the blue arch 
of the sky. These mountains rise in lofty gran- 
deur, twelve thousand feet above the grassy plains 
at their base ; and some of the peaks, are supposed 
to be eighteen thousand feet above the level of the 
sea. They appear at a distance, to present an un- 
broken front, and to form an insuperable barrier be- 
tween the Mississippi valley, and the shores of the 
Pacific ocean. On a nearer inspection, they are 
found to be, like the Alleghany mountains compo- 
sed of a number of parallel ridges ; and following 
.yp the streams, as they escape from the mountains, 



AND TEXAS. 271 

Jolerable paths are found to cross them. A late 
traveller crossed these mountains, by following up 
^he river Platte to its source ; and from thence, down 
the stream that falls into Lake Bueneventura, on the 
western side. He states that the ascent was no 
where any greater than on the National road, over 
ithe Cumberland mountains. He even asserts, that 
the ascent was not more than three degrees ; and 
that nature has provided a practical and good road, 
quite down to the plains of the Columbia. 

These ranges of mountains cover a v/ide extent 
rof country ; and here, the principal rivers that fall 
ginto the Mississippi, have their sources. Some of 
these rivers wind three or four hundred miles among 
the mountains, before they find a passage to the 
^plains below. The ranges at the sources of the 
. Arkansas, and extending southward towards the Gulf 
'Of Mej^icQ, bear the name of the Masserne moun- 
lams. Asiagle peak of this ridge, seen at immense 
distances over the adjacent plains, rising into the 
blue atmosphere above the region of clouds, is cal- 
led mount Pike. Near this mountain, the Colora- 
do of the Pacific, the Rio del Norte of the Gulf of 
Mexico, the Yellow Stone of the Missouri, and the 
Arkansas and Red rivers of the Mississippi, have 
, their sources. Mount Pike must therefore, be the 
highest point oflaiid of this part of North America. 
The Rocky mountains are at present too little 
known to be accurately and particularly described. 
• They are hundreds -pf miles beyond the limits of 



272 TRIP TO THE WEST 

cultivation, and the usual haunts of civilized man. 
They will for ages only attract the gaze and aston- 
ishment of wandering hunters, and adventurous trav- 
ellers, who will thread the mazes of their deep gul- 
lies, as they pursue their journey to the western sea. 
Many of tJie ranges, and peaks are black, ragged 
and precipitous ; and around their bases are strewn 
huge fragments of rock, detached by earthquakes 
and the hand of time. From this iron bound and 
precipitous character, they probably received the ap- 
pellation of "Rocky mountains." 

The general surface of the Mississippi Valley 
may be classed under three distinct heads — the dense 
forest, the barrens, or oak openings, and the prai- 
ries. In the first division, every traveller must have 
remarked, as soon as he descends to this valley, a 
grandeur in the form and size of the trees, a depth 
of verdure in the foliage, and a magnificent prodi- 
gality of growth, that distinguishes this, from every 
other country. The trees are large and straight, 
and rise aloft in stately columns, free from branch- 
es, to a great height. In the rich bottoms, they 
are generally wreathed with a drapery of ivy and 
grape vines ; and these vines have sometimes trunks 
as large as the human body. Frequently, these for- 
ests are as free from any undergrowth as an or- 
chard of apple trees. Sometimes the only shrub 
seen among the tall trees, is the beautiful pawpaw, 
with its splendid foliage and graceful stems. In the 
rich alluvions of the southern section, impenetrable 



AND TEXAS. 273 

cane brakes, tangles of brambles, and a rank growth 
of weeds, are often found beneath the forest trees ; 
and their lofty branches are hung with large festoons 
of Spanish moss. These are the safe retreats of the 
bears, panthers, and other wild beasts of the forest. 

Such forest trees only will be noted, as are not 
found in our northern climate. It may be proper 
to remark, that the white pine of New-England is 
only found in the upper section of the Mississippi 
valley — the pitch pine is found in various places on 
the high lands, throughout its whole extent; al- 
though not on the banks of the streams of water. 

The cypress is seen on overflowed and swampy 
land from the mouth of the Ohio to the gulf of 
Mexico. It is strikingly singular in its appearance. 
Under its deep shade, arise a multitude of cone 
shaped posts, called ^cypress knees.' They are of 
various sizes and heights. The largest generally 
seen are about a foot in diameter at the bottom, 
two or three inches at the top, and six feet in height. 
The bark is smooth, and grows over the top end the 
same as at the sides. The ground, in a cypress 
swamp, looks as though tapering posts of all imag- 
inable sizes had been set there at random ; and are 
sometimes so thick that it is difficult to ride among 
them. It has been supposed that these knees are 
but the commencement of large trees, and there is 
some reason for this belief ; for the tree itself has a 
buttress that looks exactly like an enlarged cypress 
knee. A full sized cypress is ten feet in diameter 



274 TRIP TO THE WEST 

at the ground, but it tapers so rapidly that in ascend- 
ing eight feet, it is not more than about two feet in 
diameter ; from thence, it rises in a straight smooth 
column, eighty feet, without any apparent diminu- 
tion of its size ; it then branches off at once in all 
directions, and forms a level surface of foliage at 
the top. A forest of cypress looks like a scaffold- 
ing of deep green verdure suspended in the air.— 
The timber is clear of knots, easily wrought, dura- 
ble, and is the most valuable timber tree in all the 
southern country. 

The live oak is only found near the sea coast. It 
does not grow tall, but runs out into long lateral 
branches, looking like an immense spread umbrella. 
The leaf is small and evergreen. It bears an abun- 
dance of acorns, which are small, long and a good 
deal tapering at each end. Its timber is hard to cut, 
and will immediately sink in water. 

The peccan is of beautiful form and appearance, 
and makes excellent timber for building and rails. 
It bears a round nut about an inch and a half long 
and half an inch in diameter. It excels all other 
nuts in the dehcacy of its flavor. 

The black locust is an excellent timber tree, and 
is much used in the building of steamboats. Its 
blossoms yield an exquisite perfume. The white 
locust is similar to that of the north. 

The black walnut is a splendid tree and grows to 
a great size. It is much used in finishing houses 
and in cabinet furniture. It produces a nut very 



AND TEXAS. 275 

similar to the northern butternut ; but the meat is 
not very palatable. The white walnut is also plenty, 
as are the various kinds of hickory. 

The sycamore is the largest tree of the western 
forest. One of these trees near Marietta measures 
fifteen feet in diameter. Judge Tucker of Missouri 
fitted up a hollow section of a sycamore for an 
office. 

The yellow poplar is a splendid tree and next in 
size to the sycamore. Its timber is very useful for 
building and rails. Its blossoms are gaudy bell- 
shaped cups, and the leaves are of beautiful forms. 
The cotton-wood is universally found in all the 
southern country below the mouth of the Ohio. It 
is a tree of the poplar class, and somewhat resem- 
bles the whitewood of the more northern regions. 
It is a large stately tree and sometimes measures 
twelve feet in diameter. One tree has been known 
to make more than a thousand rails. It derives its 
name from the circumstance, that when its blossoms 
fall, it scatters on the ground something much re- 
sembling, in feeling and appearance, short ginned 
cotton. 

The catalpa is found in the region of the cotton- 
wood. It is remarkable for the great size of its 
deep green leaves, and its rounded tuft of beautiful 
blossoms of unequalled fragrance. Its seed is con- 
tained in a pod about two feet in length, much re- 
sembHng a bean pod. As an ornamental tree it is 
unrivalled. In gracefulness of form, grandeur of 



276 TRIP TO THE WEST 

its foliage, and rich, ambrosial fragrance of its blos- 
som, it is incomparably superior to all the trees of 
the western world. 

The magnolia has been much overrated, both as 
to the size of the tree and blossom also. It grows 
up tall and slim ; the largest, about two feet in di- 
ameter ; smooth whitish bark ; and slightly resem- 
bling the northern beech. Its leaves are of a deep 
green, small and evergreen. Its blossom is of a 
pure white, much resembling, although twice the 
size, of a northern pond lilly. The fragrance is in- 
deed powerful, but rather disagreeable. 

There are half a dozen species of laurels; the 
most beautiful of which, is the laurel almond. It 
grows to the size of the pear tree ; the leaves re- 
semble those of the peach ; its blossoms yield a 
most delicious perfume ; and its foliage continues 
green all the year. It is found in the valley of the 
Red River. 

There is a striking and beautiful tree found on 
the head waters of the Washita and in the interior 
of Arkansas, called bow-wood, from the circum- 
stance that the Indians use it for bows. It bears a 
large fruit of most inviting appearance, much re- 
sembling a very large orange. But although beau- 
tiful to the eye, it is bitter to the taste. It has large 
and beautiful leaves, in form and appearance much 
like those of the orange, but much larger. The 
wood is yellow like fustic, and it produces a similar 
dye. It is hard, heavy and durable, and is supposed 



AND TEXAS. 277 

to be more incorruptible than live oak, mulberry, 
cypress, or cedar. Above the raft on Red River, 
the hulk of a steamboat has been built entirely of 
its timber. 

The China tree is not a native of this country, 
but is much cultivated in the southern regions of 
the valley for ornament and shade. It has fine long 
spiked leaves, eight or ten inches in length, set in 
pairs on each side of a stem two feet long. In the 
flowering season, the tree is completely covered 
with blossoms. It bears a small reddish berry, 
which continues on the tree a long time after the 
leaves have fallen, and gives it, even then, an inter- 
esting appearance. It is a tree of more rapid growth 
than any known in this country. 

The pawpaw is not only the most graceful and 
pleasing in appearance of all the wild fruit-bearing 
shrubs, but throws into the shade those cultivated 
by the hand of man. The leaves are long, of a rich 
green color, and much resemble the leaves of the 
tobacco plant. The stem is straight, white, and of 
unrivalled beauty. The fruit resembles the cucum- 
ber, but smoother and more pointed at the ends. — . 
There are from two to five in a cluster ; and when 
ripe are of a rich beautiful yellow. The fruit con- 
tains from two to six seeds, double the size of the 
tamarind. The pulp resembles egg custard. It 
has precisely the same feehng in the mouth, and 
unites the taste of eggs, cream, sugar, and spice. It 
is a natural custard ; but too rich and highly seas.- 

24 



278 TRIP TO THE WEST 

oned to be much relished by most people. So ma- 
ny whimsical and unexpected tastes are compound- 
ed in the fruit, that a person of the most sober face, 
when he first tastes of it, unconsciously relaxes in- 
to a smile. 

The persimon is found in Missouri, and in the re- 
gion to the south of it. Its leaves resemble those 
of the wild cherry, and it grows about the size of 
the pear tree. The fruit is of the size of a common 
grape, in which are similar small seeds. It ripens 
about the middle of autumn. The fruit is of a yel- 
lowish purple color, and it is too sweet to be agree- 
able to many people. 

In the middle regions, on some of the prairies, 
large tracts are covered with the crab-apple tree. — 
Their appearance is like the cultivated apple tree, 
although the fruit and the tree are much smaller. — 
It makes good cider and preserves, but is too tart 
to be eaten in its natural state. 

The white and black mulberry are both found in 
the Mississippi valley, but the black is by far the 
most common. It has been satisfactorily proved, 
however, that the silk worm will thrive and produce 
well, upon the black mulberry. 

Cane brake is seen on the banks of the Missis- 
sippi soon after you leave the mouth of the Ohio. 
It generally grows from fifteen to twenty feet in 
height ; but in the rich bottoms near Natchez it 
sometimes attains the height of thirty feet. It is 
five years coming to maturity, and then produces 



AND TEXAS. 279 

an abundant crop of seed, on heads much resenv 
bhng broom corn. It is an evergreen. The leaves 
are three or four inches long, but narrow and sharp 
pointed. It is much used for reeds and fishing rods. 
They grow so very thick that it is difficult for a 
man to make head way among them. When they 
are cut down and become dry, they burn freely. — 
The negroes have fine sport in burning them. The 
heat rarifies the air in the hollow between the joints 
and causes them to burst with a noise like a gun ; 
so that when a large quantity of them are set on 
fire, the noise is like a continued discharge of mus- 
ketry. 

The "barrens" have a distinct and peculiar config- 
uration. The surface is generally undulating with 
gentle hills — sometimes of a conical form, but gen- 
erally, running in parallel ridges. The soil is of a 
clayey texture, of a reddish or greyish color, and is 
covered with tall coarse grass. The trees are nei- 
ther large nor very small ; and are scattered over 
the surface, at the distance of two or three rods 
from each other. They are chiefly of the different 
kinds of oaks, and from this circumstance, these 
barrens are, in many places, called "oak openings." 
The soil never exceeds second rate, and is often 
only third rate ; but it will produce good crops of 
corn and wheat for many years, without the aid of 
manure. There are large tracts of this kind of land 
in Kentucky, Tennessee and Alabama. They are 
common in Indiana, Michigan, Illinois, Missouri, 



280 TRIP TO THE WEST 

Arkansas and Texas ; and, indeed, they are seen 
with more or less frequency over a large portion of 
the Mississippi valley. 

The 'pine barrens' are covered with a beautiful 
growth of long leaved pines. They run up tall, 
in a straight shaft, generally about two feet in diam- 
eter, and are excellent for timber. The surface is 
gently undulating ; sometimes, approaching a dead 
level, and is covered with a scanty growth of weeds 
and grass. The soil is sandy, but sometimes slight- 
ly tinged with reddish clay. It is supposed to be 
weak and unproductive ; but some of these 'bar- 
rens' have produced two or three good crops of 
grain, without being enriched by manure. Large 
districts of this kind of land are found in Alabama, 
Mississippi and Arkansas; and they are common 
in Florida, and in some sections of Louisiana and 
Texas. 

The remaining, and by far the most extensive 
surface of the valley, is that of the prairies. Al- 
though they have not much diversity of aspect, yet 
they may be classed under three general heads — • 
the alluvial, or wet, the bushy, and the dry prairies. 
The bushy prairies seem to be of an intermediate 
character between the alluvial prairies and the bar- 
rens. They have springs of water, covered with 
hazel and furzy bushes, small sassafras shrubs and 
grape vines. Acres of this shrubbery are sometimes 
found covered with the common hop vine. Prairies 
of this description are very common in Indiana, 



AND TEXAS. 281 

Illinois and Missouri; and they alternate among 
the other prairies, for some distance towards the 
Rocky mountains. 

The wet prairies form the smallest division. 
They are generally found on the m.argin of streams; 
but sometimes, they occur, with all their distinctive 
features, far from the spot v/here waters now run. 
They are generally basins, as it regards the adjacent 
regions, and possess a deep, black soil of exhaust- 
less fertility. They are the best soils for wheat 
and Indian corn; but, ordinarily, too tender and 
loamy for the cultivated grasses. In a native state, 
they are covered with grass and v/eeds of astonish- 
ing height and luxuriance. They are often higher 
than a man's head^ when mounted on horse back. 
An exact account of the size and rankness of the 
weeds, flowering plants, and wild grass on the rich 
alluvial prairies of Illinois and Missouri, would ap^ 
pear to those who have never seen them, like an 
idle tale. Still more than the rolling prairies, they 
strike the eye as a dead level, but they generally 
have a slight inclination, sufficient to carry off the 
water. 

The dry prairies are generally destitute of springs 
and bushes, but are covered with weeds, flowering 
plants and wild grass. The roundings of their un- 
dulations are so gentle, that to the eye, taking in a 
large surface at a single view, they appear as a 
dead level; but in travelling over them their undula- 
tions fully appear. The ravines and gullies occa^ 

24* 



28l2 TRIP TO THE WEST 

sionally fount], fiilly indicate, that they have a suffi- 
cient inclination to communicate a quick motion to 
the waters, which fall upon them. This is by far 
the largest class of prairies in the western country. 
Prairies of this description are frequently found in 
Illinois ; the largest of which, called "grand prai- 
rie," is a hundred miles in length, by fifty in 
breadth. They are often found in Indiana, Mis- 
souri and Texas; but they appear displayed on a 
magnificent scale, between the western border of 
the State of Missouri, and the Rocky mountains. 
Here, are the appropriate ranges for the buftalo, 
wild cattle and horses. Here are the plains, with- 
out wood or water, where the traveller may wander 
for days, and see the sun rise and set in an ocean 
of grass. Here he may travel, day after day, un- 
der a cloudless ardor of the sun, and not find a 
stream of water to slake his thirst, or a solitary tree 
for shelter and shade. 

The general aspect of the Mississippi valley, in 
regard to woodland and prairies, may in a summa- 
ry manner, be thus stated : — The surface, in a state 
of nature, from the Alleghany mountains to the 
western border of Ohio, is covered with a dense 
forest. Here, are the first indications of prairies. 
Proceeding westward through Indiana, Illinois and 
Missouri, tlie prairies become larger and more fre- 
quent, until at last, it becomes all prairie to the 
base of the Rocky mountains. It is a fact, beyond 
all question, that more than half of the great Mis- 



AND TEXviS. 283 

sissippi valley is smooth prairie, entirely destitute 
of timber. Large portions of the valley will sup- 
port a dense population, and become inhabited ; 
but the larger prairies will remain uncultivated for 
ages. They are fit haunts only for the adventur- 
ous hunter, or the wandering shepherd. 

During the season of vegetation, no adequate 
idea can be conveyed by description, of the num- 
ber, forms, varieties, scents and hues of the flowering 
plants on the western prairies. The violet, and the 
more humble and modest kinds of flowers, which 
show their blossoms in early spring, not being able 
to compete with the rank grass and weeds around 
them, soon become choked and lost to the view ; 
but the taller and more hardy kinds, successfully 
struggle for display, and rear their heads high enough 
to be seen. They have tall and arrowy stems, spik- 
ed or tassellated heads, and the blossoms are of 
great size, grandeur and splendor, but not much 
delicacy of fragrance. As the season advances, 
distinct successions of dominant hues prevail. In 
spring, the prevalent color of the prairie flowers, is 
bluish purple — in midsummer, red, slightly tinged 
with yellow — in autumn, yellow. At this season 
of the year, the flowers are very large, generally, 
of the sunflower form, and they are so profusely 
scattered over the prairies, as to present to the im- 
agination an immense surface of gilding. 

And this country of dense forests and rich prai- 
ries, is intersected with large and navigable rivers. 



284 TRIP TO THE WEST 

These, alive as they are with their steamboats, keel 
and flat boats, aftbrd great facilities for travelling, 
and for the transportation of merchandize and pro- 
duce. Tlie prairies and woodland also, present 
great facihties for travelling, and the transportation 
of goods. They are often, in a state of nature, 
so smooth, so gently undulating, and of such an 
unbroken surface, that carriages may run over them 
without interruption or delay. 

Such are the general outhnes and features of the 
great Mississippi valley ; but a complete description 
would require volumes. Nature has laid off her 
work here, upon a magnificent scale, and finished 
it with a liberal hand. Its natural productions are 
rich and abundant. Its waters abound with fish — 
its soil teems with an exuberance of trees, plants 
and blossoms — rich mines lie emboweled beneath 
the surface — and wild game are profusely scattered 
over its prairies, woodland and rivers. To the hus- 
bandman, it presents itself in a more attractive as- 
pect, than the granite hills and rocky soil of New- 
England. It has increased in population and wealth, 
incomparably greater than any other section of the 
world ; and ere long, it will contain a majority of 
the population of the United States. 

And now, it only remains, most respectfully to 
take leave of my readers. Those who have traced 
the TRIP TO THE WEST AND TEXAS through the 
foregoing pages, I hope, may have enjoyed all its 
pleasures, without incurring its attendant hardships 
and fatiffue. 



APPEIVDIX. 



Territory ol' Mich%aia. 

This Territory is bounded by the national boun- 
dary line on the east and north, by the Mississippi 
river on the west, and by the States of Ilhnois, In- 
diana and Ohio on the south. These boundaries 
include a vast extent of territory ; but as that por- 
tion of it which lies to the north and west of Lake 
Michigan and the State of Illinois is for the most 
part a wilderness, having only some small settle- 
ments on Green Bay, the Milwake and Mississippi, 
my remarks v/ill be confined to that part of it com- 
monly called the peninsula, lying between lakes 
Erie and Michigan. 

Population. — This territory is estimated by good 
judges to contain between thirty-five and forty thou- 
sand inhabitants. The rapid and increasing tide of 
emigration into it, induces the belief that it will 
soon be admitted as a State into the Union. Its pres- 



286 APPENDIX. 

ent and increasing importance may be in a great 
measure attributed to the enterprising, active and 
energetic talents of its late governor, Lewis Cass, 
the present Secretary of War. His personal exer- 
tions and enlightened policy, not only facilitated its 
settlement, but developed its vast and various resour- 
ces. A large portion of its inhabitants are from 
JNew-York and the Eastern States, and are as active 
and industrious as thos^ are in the sections of coun- 
try from w^hich they came. They make rapid im- 
provements ; and in a few years, the country will 
not be behind the flourishing State of Ohio, in 
farms and villages. 

Face of the Country. — That part immediately 
bordering on lakes Erie, St. Clair and Huron, and 
their connecting waters, is generally rather level 
and heavily timbered, but somewhat deficient in 
good water. In the interior, it becomes gently un- 
dulating, occasionally well timbered, and intersper- 
sed with oak openings, plains and prairies. The 
plains are frequently covered with such a regular, 
beautiful and thrifty growth of timber^ so free from 
underbrush, as to wear the aspect of a cultivated for- 
est. They are more easily improved than the heavy 
timbered land, and produce full as well. The open- 
ings are often rather deficient in timber, though 
they are not unfrequently skirted with plains, or 
contain patches of woodland, from which an ample 
supply may be obtained, not only for fuel, but for 
building, fencing and all other farming purposes, if 



APPENDIX. 28t 

used with economy. They usually require but little, 
and sometimes no labor to prepare them for the 
plough ; three or four yoke of cattle are found to 
be amply sufficient to break them up the first time, 
after which they are cultivated with nearly as much 
ease as old improved lands. They are found to be 
excellent for wheat, to improve by cultivation, and 
usually to produce a good crop of corn the first 
season. 

The prairies generally support a heavy growth of 
grass — are free from timber, and may be divided 
into two classes. One is called dry, and the other 
is denominated wet prairies. The former possess a 
rich soil, are easily cultivated, and generally yield in 
rich abundance almost every kind of produce which 
might be expected to flourish in forty-two degrees 
north latitude, especially those on St. Joseph's riv- 
er. And the latter often prove serviceable, not on- 
ly in affording early pasture, but in supplying the 
emigrant with the means of wintering his cattle ; 
and may with a little labor, frequently be made to 
yield an abundant supply of excellent hay. The 
interior of the territory is well watered with rivers, 
creeks and small lakes ; many of which contain an 
unusual quantity of fish. There are several salt 
springs, which have not yet been tried nor improv- 
ed, situated in diflferent parts of the territory, all of 
which have been reserved by the United States ; but 
it is not certain that any of them will prove very val- 
uable. By boring a number of feet, the water would 



288 APPENDIX. 

improve, and might, in some cases at least, not only 
justify the erection of extensive works for the man- 
ufacture of salt, but prove also a source of revenue 
to the United States, as well as afford to the manu- 
facturer the means of accumulating wealth. 

The surveyed part of the territory is laid out by 
the United States into townships of six miles square, 
which are divided into thirty-six sections or square 
miles, containing each six hundred and forty acres. 
These are subdivided, by imaginary lines, into quar- 
ter and half quarter sections ; the latter of which 
contain each eighty acres, is the smallest quantity 
sold by the United States, and may, as well as the 
larger tracts, be selected by the purchaser. Though 
there is a small tract of land which proves rather 
unhealthy at the mouth of Huron, Saginaw and 
Rouge rivers, as vvell as at the mouth of Brow^istown 
and Swan creeks, owing to the sluggishness of the 
water at the outlet of these streams, yet the climate 
of the surveyed part of the territory is mild, lying 
between forty-one degrees thirty-nine minutes, and 
forty-two degrees thirty-four minutes north latitude. 
The air is salubrious, and the water generally clear. 
The soil, which produces in rich abundance wheat 
rye, barley, oats, peas, beans, Indian corn, and po- 
tatoes, as well as all kinds of vegetables usually cul- 
tivated in the same latitude, consists of such a va- 
riety, that it cannot fail to suit the choice of almost 
every person in the pursuit of agriculture. Fruit, 
of course, has not yet been tested in the interior, 



APPENDIX. 289 

for the want of time, except peaches, which do ex- 
ceedingly well ; but if I may be permitted to draw 
an inference, from the quality of the various kinds 
which grow in great abundance on the French plan- 
tations, along the margin of Detroit river, as well 
as on other parts of the great chain of navigable 
waters, then I presume I shall be allowed to say, 
that the soil of Michigan is equal, for the produc- 
tion of fruit, to that of any State in the Union. The 
pear trees along this river, which were planted in 
the early settlement by the French, are remarkably 
large, very tall, and extremely thrifty and beautiful, 
and bear a most delicious fruit, which generally sells 
from two to four shillings per bushel. Apples, at 
Detroit, vary from twelve to fifty cents, and may 
generally be procured by the bushel, for the latter 
price, even in winter. Cider, in the fall, is from one 
and a half to two dollars per barrel, for the juice. 
Currants, blackberries, black and red raspberries and 
cherries bring from three to four cents per quart; 
though the earliest of these, as well as whortle ber- 
ries and strawberries, command six-pence. Plumbs 
are scarce, because they have not been generally 
cultivated, though they are likewise found to do 
well. 

The price of unsold wild land is fixed and uni- 
form, being one dollar and twenty-five cents per 
acre, the terms ready money, and the title indisputa- 
ble, as it comes direct from the United States, under 
the seal of the President. The richest, most fertile, 

25 



290 APPENDIX- 

and perhaps iiioro beautiful part of the territory, is 
generally thought to be adjacent to the St. Joseph's 
river and its various branches ; which, from present 
appearances, bids fair to become speedily settled ; 
settlements began to form on it a year before it was 
offered for sale. It only came in market in May, 
1834, and such has been the influx of emigration to 
this part of the territory, that the Legislature in Oc- 
tober last, formed twelve new counties, mostly there- 
on, and organized two of that number. This part 
of the territory possesses several copious mill 
streams, particularly Hog-creek, the Dowagiake, 
Christianna, Pigeon, Crooked and Portage rivers, a 
few of which have already been improved, by the 
erection of saw and grist mills. The climate of this 
part of the territory, though mild, is apparently more 
subject to wind than the valley of the Ohio river. 
The prevailing wind is the southwest; and as it 
crosses a large tract of prairie country in Illinois and 
Indiana, comes here with much force, and in winter 
is somewhat piercing. Considerable snow falls; nev- 
ertheless it is very favorable to wheat, rye, potatoes 
and turnips, and though not very adverse, yet not 
so congenial as the valley of the Ohio river, to south- 
ern corn and the more tender grains and esculents. 
Fruits, of course, have not yet been cultivated here, 
except a few apples and peaches, by the French 
which appear to do well. 

The prairies in this quarter are of the richest soil, 
and may be ploughed in two days after the frost 



APPENDIX. ^91 

leaves the ground in the spring. They usually pro- 
duce thirty or forty bushels of wheat to the acre; 
and from thirty to eighty of corn have been raised 
from the same quantity of ground, in all the prairies 
that have as yet been occupied: four hundred acres 
of corn were cultivated on Beardsley's prairie last 
year, which having been improved the year before 
averaged fifty bushels to the acre. These prairies 
not unfrequently produce thirty or forty bushels of 
corn to the acre, the first season, without being 
ploughed or hoed after planting. 

The surveyed part of the territory is divided into 
three United States, land districts, containing each 
one land office; one of which is at Detroit, one at 
Monroe and one at Bronson, in the county of Ka- 
lamazoo. 

The rivers Grand, St. Joseph, Raisin, Huron, 
Clinton, Rouge, Kalamazoo and Shiawassee, inter- 
locking in diflferent parts of the territory, not only 
irrigate the country in a beautiful manner, but offer 
unparalleled inducements for canaling, and with 
comparatively but little expense, as there would be 
no mountains, nor probably rock strata to cut 
through. It is already in contemplation, by means 
of the Grand river and Clinton, or the St. Joseph's 
and Raisin, to open a water communication across 
the peninsula, by means of a canal, which would 
terminate at Detroit or Monroe; and probably at no 
distant period, it will not only be undertaken, but 
will be accomplished in such a manner as to accom- 



Q92 APPENDIX. 

modate both these places in this respect. A com- 
pany was incorporated, by an act of the Legislature, 
last fall, under the title of the "Summit Portage 
Canal and Road Company," with a capital of ten 
thousand dollars, to be divided into one thousand 
shares of ten dollars each, for the purpose of cut- 
ting a canal west of Lake Michigan, to connect the 
Fox and Ouisconsin rivers at what is usually termed 
the Portage of the Ouisconsin, and to construct a 
turnpike road on said Portage, parallel to said canal; 
and also to construct another turnpike road from the 
lower extremity of the rapids of the Kaukauin, on 
the east side of the Fox river, on the most direct 
and eligible route to Winnebago lake, and for the 
erection of piers, wharves, warehouses and other 
public buildings and improvements, in and about 
said canal and turnpike, for commercial purposes. — 
Michigan extends at present west to the Mississippi 
river; but it is expected the territory will shortly be 
divided, and a new territory set off west of Lake 
Michigan ; and organized by the name of Ouiscon- 
sin or Huron. The territory was originally owned 
and occupied by emigrants from France; conse- 
quently the old inhabitants or first settlers are most- 
ly French. 

Wayne County — contains about seven thousand 
inhabitants, many of whom are French. Its seat of 
justice is Detroit. Hamtranck, Detroit and Spring- 
wells. These towns, which lie in the northeast part 
of the country, border on Detroit river, and are rath- 



APPENDIX. 293 

er level, and but poorly supplied with water. The 
northern part of the two latter is somewhat broken 
by marsh and wet prairie; but near the centre of 
Springwells is a tract, containing some excellent ara- 
ble land not yet entered, lying within from six to 
ten miles of Detroit, where a new settlement has 
recently been formed, and through which a road has 
lately been opened, leading from Detroit to Farm- 
ington. The towns of Pekin, Nankin and Ply- 
mouth are well supplied with water by the river 
Rouge and its various branches, which afford several 
eligible mill sites, and which have already been ad- 
vantageously improved by the erection thereon of 
saw and grist mills. Pekin is heavily timbered with 
white and black ash, white and black oak, beech, 
maple and sugar tree. The land is rolling, and the 
soil rich and fertile, consisting of sand, loam and 
some clay. The northern and southern part of the 
tow^n of Nankin has much the same appearance as 
Pekin, though the soil is more sandy, and requires 
less labor to cultivate it ; yet it yields quite as well; 
but the middle is plains and openings, of an inferior 
quality and soil. Plymouth has likewise a similar 
appearance to Pekin, though the northern part is 
more rolling, yet even here the timber is the same, 
with the addition of black walnut; but the soil is 
generally of a superior quality. 

Huron. — This town is watered by a delightsome 
river, of the same name, whose waters are very 
transparent and abound with fish. It runs through 

25* 



294 APPENDIX. 

the town diagonally, exhibiting in many places rich 
bottom lands, often bounded on one or both sides, by 
high sloping banks, and not unfrequently skirted 
with beautiful plains. Though a great proportion 
of this town is rather destitute of running streams, 
yet the soil in general is fertile, and for the most 
part easily cultivated. The eastern part is oak 
openings and plains of a good quality, interspersed 
with groves of heavy timber which often contain a 
small black ash swamp, and sometimes a wet or dry 
prairie ; but the south part is heavily timbered with 
white and black ash, white oak, beech and maple, 
with occasionally a whitewood. The southwest 
corner is low land, and contains a large wet prairie. 

Brownstown is watered by the Huron river. Mud- 
dy and Brownstown creeks. The northwestern part 
of this town is but poorly watered, and exhibits al- 
ternately oak openings, plains and prairies, occasion^ 
ally interspersed with groves of heavy timber. The 
southeastern part is rather level and heavily timber^ 
ed, except small tracts at the mouths of Huron riv^ 
er and Brownstown creek, which consist of prairies 
that are more or less inundated with water. 

Montguagon embraces Gross' Isle, and is situate 
on Detroit river. It is gently undulating, possesses 
a fine quarry of limestone, and a rich soil, supports 
ing a thrifty and heavy growth of white oak, hicko^ 
ry, beech, maple, white and black ash. 

Monroe CouNTr — contains a population of about 
four thousand, many of whom are French. There 



APPENDIX. 295 

are three villages in this county, namely, Monroe, 
Frenchtown and Port Lawrence. The first of these, 
which is the seat of justice for the county, is a flour- 
ishing village, situate on the river Raisin, about six 
miles from lake Erie, and thirty-six from Detroit. 
The United States' turnpike, from the latter place to 
the Ohio State line, passes through it, and here was 
situated the bank of Monroe. It possesses an am- 
ple supply of water power for propelling hydraulic 
machinery, a part of which has already been con- 
verted to the use of saw and grist mills, as well as 
to the use of machines for carding and dressing 
cloth. 

The United States have made a survey of Plai- 
sance Bay harbor, at the mouth of the river, with a 
view of improving the same. Monroe is now the 
second village in the peninsula, as it regards popu- 
lation ; and should they succeed in forming a good 
harbor at the mouth of the river, as it possesses 
water power, it may yet equal, if not rival Detroit. 
The county is generally well watered; the north- 
eastern part is rather level and heavily timbered ; 
but the western and southern part is rolhng land, 
alternately abounding in prairies, openings, or heavy 
groves of timber. The soil of this county is uni- 
formly rich, and of a very superior quality. 

Washtenaw County — contains about four thou- 
sand inhabitants, who are, with a few exceptions, 
Americans. Its seat of justice is Ann Arbor, a vil^ 
lage of five years' growth, situate on the river Hu^ 



296- APPENDIX. 

ron, forty miles west of Detroit, containing about 
ninety dwelling houses. Ypsilanti, the second vil- 
lage in the county as to population, is likewise sit- 
uate on the Huron, about ten miles below Ann Ar- 
bor, at the place where the United States' turnpike, 
from Detroit to Chicago, crosses it. 

This county contains twelve mercantile establish- 
ments, three distilleries, one fanning mill factory, 
one oil factory, one gunsmith, ©ne wagon maker, 
five flouring mills, thirteen saw mills, and two ma- 
chines for carding and dressing cloth. It abounds 
in select and common schools, and contains many 
mechanics. Its surface is gently undulating and 
beautiful ; and its soil prolific, consisting of a deep 
black sand, loam and some chy. It exhibits in suc- 
cession, beautiful prairies, oak openings, and heavy 
groves of timber, consisting of white, red and black 
oak, beech, walnut, whitewood, bass, elm, maple 
and butternut, with almost all other kinds that usu- 
ally grow in forty-two degrees north latitude, ever- 
green excepted. The river Huron, of lake Erie, 
meanders through the centre of it north and south ; 
is navigable for boats and rafts to the lake, and 
with its several branches water the middle; the 
head waters of the Shiawassee the north, and the 
rivers Raisin and Saline and their branches, the 
south part of said county. It has numerous and 
extensive water privileges for facilitating manufac- 
tures. 



APPENDIX. 297 

Macomb County — contains about two thousand 
five hundred inhabitants, a considerable number of 
whom are French. The northeastern and eastern 
pcU^t of this county is in general rather level, and for 
the most part heavily timbered ; yet it is sufficient- 
ly uneven to drain off and leave no stagnant wat- 
ers ; but the westerti part is rolling land, somewhat 
broken, being very hilly and uneven, and consist- 
ing of oak openings, plains, and some prairie land. 

The plains are remarkably free from underbrush, 
and are, as well as the prairies and openings, very 
rich and fertile, producing not only wheat, but eve- 
ry other kind of grain in rich abundance. The Clin- 
ton river, together with its numerous tributaries, irri- 
gate this county in a beautiful manner. It p»ossesses 
advantages over many of the peninsular counties, 
on account of its proximity to the great chain of 
navigable waters. It fronts on lake St. Clair ; and 
the river Clinton, which runs through the entire 
county, nearly in the centre, may easily be render- 
ed navigable for batteaux, as high up as Rochester. 
And for the accomplishment of which a company 
has already been formed and were incorporated last 
fall by an act of the Legislature. This river is now 
navigable to Mt. Clemens, for vessels of considera- 
ble burthen ; and when the obstructions at the mouth 
of the river are removed, for which object an appli- 
cation has been made to Congress for an appropria- 
tion, then any vessels or steamboats on the lake 



298 APPENDIX. 

may come up to the villagCj a distance of six miles, 
by water. 

This county is very well supplied with water pow- 
er, it has now in operation seven saw mills, and two 
grist mills, and embraces four stores, three distiller- 
ies, two asheries, and six blacksmith shops. Its 
seat of justice is Mt. Clemens, a flourishing village 
situate on the Clinton river, at the place where the 
United States' road from Detroit to fort Gratiot cros- 
ses it. It hes four and a half miles from the lake, 
by land, and twenty northeastwardly from Detroit. 

Washington lies in the northwest corner of the 
county, and consists principally of oak openings and 
plains, though it has some prairie land. The open- 
ings and plains are extremely free from underbrush 
and prove to be excellent for the cultivation of 
wheat. The south part of the town is rolling land, 
exhibiting a rich, and for the most part a sandy soil, 
though it is sometimes composed of sand and loam 
intermixed ; but the north part is what is common- 
ly called broken land, being very hilly and uneven, 
and not unfrequently exhibits granitic boulders in 
great plenty. 

Shelby and Ray consist principally of gentle 
undulating and heavy timbered land, interspersed 
occasionally with oak openings. They are well 
watered and possess a very productive soil. 

Harrison is in general rather level, and the north 
part though somewhat swampy is susceptible of be- 
ing converted into excellent meadow. 



APPENDIX. 299 

Clinton possesses generally a rich soil, is heavily 
timbered and embraces a marsh or wet prairie of 
considerable extent on its eastern border adjacent 
to the lake shore, the greater part of which, how- 
ever, if properly ditched, would prove to be good 
natural meadow. The northern part of the town is 
gently undulating and well supplied with water, of 
which the southern part is too deficient, being rath- 
er level. 

Oakland County — contains about six thousand 
inhabitants, all Americans. It has three villages, 
each with a mill on its border, namely, Pontiac, 
Auburn and Rochester ; the first of which is the 
seat of justice for the county, and is situated twen- 
ty-eight miles northwest of Detroit, on the Clinton 
river, where the United States' road from Detroit to 
Saginaw crosses it. This county presents a great 
variety of soil, and upon examination will be found 
to suit the choice of almost every person in the 
pursuit of agriculture. The rivers Clinton, Rouge 
and Huron, interlocking in different parts extend 
their many branches, and irrigate the county in a 
beautiful manner. 

Troy embraces townships one and two south in 
range eleven east, is situate in the southeast quarter 
of the county, and is principally timbered land ; 
township two in this town is entirely of this descrip- 
tion, is heavily wooded with black and white walnut, 
linden, white, red and black oak, and the westerly 
half is of that description usually denominated roll- 



300 APPENDIX. 

ling timbered land, and in quality of soil, is not sur- 
passed by any in the territory ; but township one of 
that description called plains, interspersed with 
marshes, and is of an inferior quality. 

Bloomjield presents a variety of soil, which may 
be divided into three classes, oak openings, plains 
and timbered land. The country in the neighbor- 
hood of the lakes is oak openings, not so good for 
grass, but producing wheat in rich abundance — I 
would mention that two farmers in the vicinity of 
Wing lake, harvested one hundred and thirty acres 
of excellent wheat the last season. The north of 
Bloomfield is of this description, but the south part 
is timbered land. 

Pontiac is generally oak openings of a good qual- 
ity, but inferior to the lands of Bloomfield. 

Oakland. — The south part of this town is tim- 
bered land with a rich soil, and the north part plains 
and openings of a good quality. 

The town of Troy is watered by a branch of the 
Rouge, and the branches of Red river which empty 
into the Clinton. Bloomfield is watered by three 
branches of the Rouge, which, meandering through 
the county, enable every farmer to partake of their 
privileges. The towns of Pontiac and Oakland are 
watered by the Clinton river, Paint and Stony creeks 
and the extreme branches of the Huron. All these 
streams possess great privileges for hydraulic ma- 
chinery. The towns of Pontiac and Oakland now 
contain twelve saw mills, four flouring mills, three 



APPENDIX. 301 

fulling mills, three carding machines and one wool- 
len factory. In Bloomfield are four saw mills and 
one grist mill. In Farmington two saw mills and 
one grist mill. Perhaps no country of like extent so 
level possesses more water power. 

St. Clair County — possesses great commercial 
advantages, as it lies on the great chain of naviga- 
ble waters. It is bounded east by lake Huron and 
the river St. Clair, which separates it from Canada ; 
south by lake St. Clair and the county of Macomb, 
west by the counties of Macomb and Lapeer, and 
north by Sanilac. Black, Pine and Belle rivers, 
Mill creek and their branches, as well as several 
smaller streams water this country. The first of 
these streams is navigable for vessels of considera- 
ble burthen, as far up as Mill creek; but Belle and 
Pine rivers are ascended only a very short distance 
in batteaux. This country is generally rather level, 
the eastern and southern part is gently undulating, 
rich, fertile and most heavily timbered, though there 
is occasionally some prairie land on the border of 
lake St. Clair, and along the southern margin of St. 
Clair river. The northern and western part of this 
country is comparatively of a light, and for the most 
part sandy soil, though tolerably productive, and in- 
terspersed with swamps and lowland. A great pro- 
portion of the timber in this quarter is pine, though 
it is often intermixed with hard wood and not unfre- 
quently interspersed with groves of tamerack, in 

26 



302 APPENDIX. 

some instances with spruce, and often on the shore 
of lake Huron, with red and white cedar. 

There are now in operation in this county, several 
of the most extensive saw mills in the territory, 
which are constantly engaged in manufacturing pine 
boards, planks, &c. and which, together with shin- 
gles, constitute at present the principal article of 
trade in the country. And as lumber may be con- 
veyed from this county by water to any port,not only 
on the great lakes, but on ther connecting waters, 
therefore the pine timber must ultimately become 
very valuable. Almost all the pine now used at De- 
troit for building, comes from this county, as it is the 
only one in the surveyed part of the territory that 
is well supplied with this valuable building material. 
The United States' road from Detroit to fort Gratiot 
runs through the centre of this county, and about 
twelve miles west of the village of Palmer, which is 
the seat of justice for the county; and which is sit- 
uate at the junction of Pine and St. Clair rivers, 
about twelve miles south of fort Gratiot, and sixty 
by water northeast of Detroit. 

St Joseph's County — is perhaps the best in the 
territory, both as to water privileges and the fertihty 
of its soil. It is watered by the St Joseph's river 
and its various branches, many of which afford nu- 
merous water privileges, particularly Hog creek. 
Pigeon, Portage and Crooked rivers, which may be 
considered copious and excellent mill streams. A saw 
mill has already been put in operation on Crooked 



APPENDIX. 303 

river, and several others have been commenced on 
the same creek and about Pigeon prairie. The wa- 
ter in this county is uniformly pure and healthy, the 
climate mild, and the face of the country moderate- 
ly undulating; consisting principally of oak open- 
ings and prairies. There is however a sufficiency 
of timber in it generally, and from the Grand Tra- 
verse on the northwest side of the river St. Joseph's, 
as high up I believe as Portage river, is a belt of 
excellent timbered land which is well supplied with 
water. The principal prairies in this county are 
Sturges, Nottawa Sapee and White Pigeon. The 
first of these, Sturges prairie, has a beautiful ap- 
pearance, and is exuberant in fertility, but is not 
convenient for water and but tolerably so to good 
timber — a few families are located on it. Not- 
tawa Sapee, part of which is embraced within the 
Indian reserve, is an excellent prairie, and settle- 
ments have commenced on it. But Pigeon prairie 
is the most valuable one in the St. Joseph's coun- 
try, as well as the most densely peopled, and per- 
haps it will not be deemed invidious to say it is the 
best settlement in the St. Joseph's country, whether 
we regard the number of its inhabitants or their in- 
telligence and wealth. The soil of these prairies 
may be considered equal to that of any land in the 
United States, The usual mode of cultivating these, 
as well as all other prairies in the vicinity of the 
river St. Joseph's, is to break up the soil immedi- 
ately with the plough at the same time dropping the 



304 APPENDIX. 

com on the edge of the furrow in such a manner 
that it may be covered by the succeeding one ; in 
this manner without any other cultivation, they often 
produce thirty to fifty bushels of corn to the acre the 
first seasoUjthough sometimes it becomes necessary to 
go through and cut down some of the rankest weeds. 
The counties of Branch, Barry and Eaton, and all 
the country north of township four, north ; west 
of the principal meridian, south of the county of 
Michilimackinac, and east of the line between ran- 
ges twelve and thirteen west, and of lake Michigan 
is attached to St. Joseph's. 

Cass County- — contains a population of two 
thousand, and is likewise watered by the St. Jo- 
seph's river and its branches, several of which af- 
ford good mill privileges, particularly the Dowagiake 
andChristianna, which are rapid and durable streams. 
A mill has already been erected and is now in ope- 
ration on the Christianna, near Young's prairie. 

The face of this county is similar to that of St. 
Joseph's county ; though some parts are undulating, 
yet in general it is level, sufficiently uneven however 
to drain off and leave no stagnant waters. The tim- 
ber is principally oak, ash, elm, sugar tree, cherry, 
black and white walnut and hickory, with a variety 
of other kinds intermixed. The country is gener- 
ally open, and you can ride with a wheel carriage 
through the wood land with almost the same ease 
you can over the prairies, being not in the least in- 
terrupted with underbrush. In every part of the 



APPENDIX. 305 

county the roads are good. Though some parts of 
it are but thinly timbered, yet along the Dowagiake 
from its source to its mouth there is a broad belt of 
excellent timbered and very rich land, from one to 
several miles wide, also along the upper portion of 
the Christianna, extending north of its source, and 
thence across to the Dowagiake is a fine belt of 
woodland. This county includes within its boun- 
daries the following prairies, namely, Four Mile, 
Beardsley,Townsend's, McKenney's,La Grange, Po- 
kagon and Young's, besides several small ones, not 
however known by any particular name. The prai- 
ries here are of the richest quality of soil ; may be 
ploughed in two days after the frost leaves the 
ground in spring, and frequently produce thirty or 
forty bushels of corn to the acre the first season, 
without being ploughed or hoed after planting. The 
three last mentioned prairies are conveniently sit- 
uate to mill streams, and principally surrounded 
with heavy timbered land, but they are nearly all 
taken up by purchasers. Four Mile prairie is not 
so happily situate with regard to mills or timbered 
land ; but nevertheless is fast fiHing up. From 
thirty to eighty bushels of corn and forty of wheat 
are usually raised from an acre in all the prairies 
where the soil has been subdued by previous culti- 
vation. Every other kind of grain as well as vege- 
tables are produced in about the same proportion. 

The only town yet laid out in this county is Ed- 
wardsburgh, which is the temporary county seat. It 

26* 



306 APPENDIX. ^. 

is situate on the border of Pleasant lake, and on the 
northeast corner of Bcardsley's prairie. The United 
States' road from Detroit to Chicago passes through 
it, as well as the road from fort Wayne to Pokagorr> 
to Niles', to Young's and to Townsend's prairies,, 
and to Coquillard in Indiana. All these places ex- 
cept fort Wayne are situate within ten miles of it. 
From the town platte, or village, you have a view 
not only of the prairie, but also of Pleasant lake. — 
The prairie is four miles in extent and the lake 
covers about one hundred acres. Fish are abundant 
in all the streams and small lakes — forty three that 
would weigh from one to three pounds were caught 
with a hook and line in Pleasant lake by two per- 
sons in thirty minutes. The water in this lake is 
very pure, you can see the bottom where the depth 
of water is fifteen feet. The country is healthy, 
several large families wlio settled here before the 
land was offered for sale, and who have resided 
here for three years, have not had a case of fever 
nor any other kind of sickness, except what has re- 
sulted from accident. 

The counties of Berrien and Van Buren and all 
the country north of the same to lake Michigan is 
attached at present to Cass county. 

Berrien County, not organized, has in it a large 
proportion of superior timbered land, but has no 
prairies of much importance. The. settlements in 
this county, though few, are scattered along the 
^iyer, and the population does not exceed thirty-five 



APPENDIX. 307 

families. But from the nature of the country, I am 
indined to beheve it will be the most populous 
pounty on the St. Joseph's. 

The rich timbered land, though now avoided for 
ihe prairies, will ultimately be in demand, and will 
rafford many dense and excellent settlements. — ■ 
Through the timbered land in this county run sev- 
eral small creeks, which, with their numerous 
branches afford an additional convenience to the 
farmer which he cannot enjoy in the prairies nor in 
the barrens. Besides the heavy timbered and prairie 
iland, there are large tracts of what are here called 
Ibarrens., being of a light soil comparatively speaking, 
tthough yery productive, and which are thinly cov- 
jcred with white and black oak, sometimes of stinted 
growth, but mostly of a handsome and useful size. 
The soil is generally a fine sand, mixed with decay- 
ed vegetables and sometimes gravelly, with here and 
there a granitic boulder. The soil of the timbered 
land is of ^ loose sandy nature, black with fertility, 
and eminently adapted to culture. That of the 
prairies is nearly of the same nature after the sod 
lias been reduced by repeated ploughing. In the 
timbered land we find white and black walnut, sev- 
eral kinds of ash, also oak, poplar, lynn, beech, elm, 
hickory, sugar tree, &c. The southeast part of this 
county is well supplied with water, and possesses 
several mill sites, some of which have already been 
improved. Ford's saw and grist mill, on the Dowa- 
giake, have been for some time in operation. There 



308 APPENDIX. 

is also a saw mill just ready to commence operation 
at the mouth of the Dowagiake, and several others 
have been commenced on the same stream. There 
is but one village regularly laid out in this county, 
which is called Niles. It is situate on the St. Jo 
seph'sj a short distance above the confluence of the 
Dowagiake with that river. The first framed house 
in it was erected in December, 1833. Next sum- 
mer it is expected there will be considerable build- 
ing there. Last season, though there were no ac- 
commodations, yet by far the greatest portion of 
merchandize, &c. destined for the St. Joseph's coun- 
try, when conveyed by water was landed there. — ■ 
Next spring will be built two warehouses, there are 
now two stores and a post office. Post offices have 
been established at the mouth of the St. Joseph's 
called Saranac, at Pokagon, southwest corner of 
town six south in range sixteen west, at Lagrange 
in the middle of town six south of range fifteen 
west, at Pigeon prairie, at Sturgis'' prairie, and at 
the Grand Traverse. 

Lapeer, Shiawassee and Saginaw. — These 
counties are not yet organized, but attached to Oak- 
land county. There are no inhabitants in Lapeer, 
and but few settlers at present in Saginaw and Shi- 
awassee. The face of these two counties is very 
similar to Oakland. 

Saginaw — is watered by the Shiawassee, Flint, 
Cass, Tittibawassee and Hare rivers. The most of 
these streams are navigable for boats ; their junction 



APPENDIX 309 

forms the Saginaw river which is navigable for sloops 
twenty miles to the village which bears the same 
name, and which is to be the seat of justice for said 
county. The United States have established a can- 
tonment here, and laid out a road from this place to 
Detroit, which is not yet finished. When this is 
completed, it is more than probable that it will set- 
tle as speedily as any county in the territory, as the 
soil is very favorable to agriculture. 

Shiawassee. — The soil of this county is rich, and 
the face of the country gently undulating, in some 
instances rolling, exhibiting oak openings and heavy 
groves of timber. The Shiawassee river which is a 
beautiful, meandering stream, and navigable for 
boats and rafts to the lake, with its several branch 
es, waters the middle and southeast part. The head 
branches of Grand and Looking Glass rivers, the 
southwest part, and Swartz's creek, the Flint and 
Mistegayock rivers, the northeast part of said 
county. 

Calhoun. — This county has lately been organized 
and its seat of justice is the town of Marshall, plea- 
santly situated on the north bank of the Kalamazoo 
river. This river and its branches afford many fine 
mill privileges. The soil is rich and gently undula- 
ting, consisting principally of burr oak openings, 
which are frequently interspersed with prairies. In 
the southwest part of the county is a small tract of 
pine timber. 



310 APPENDIX. 

Jackson — has lately been organized and its seat 
of justice is the town of Jackson, situated near 
Grand river. The west half of it is undulating, 
and consists principally of burr and white oak open- 
ings, interspersed occasionally with prairies. It 
abounds in springs and possesses a fertile soil. The 
northeast part is heavily timbered and somewhat in- 
tersected with marshes and small lakes. The soil, 
however, of this part, is rich and well adapted for 
meadow. Grand river is an excellent stream of pure 
water, quick, yet navigable for canoes from its junc- 
tion with its south branch, quite through the county 
and to lake Michigan. 

Kalamazoo. — This is one of the newly organized 
counties. Its seat of justice is the town of Bron- 
son, pleasantly situated on the south bank of the 
Kalamazoo river. The land office has lately been 
removed to this place from St. Joseph. The face 
of this county in general is moderately undulating, 
though sometimes rolling. It exhibits principally 
burr oak openings, interspersed with rich fertile and 
dry prairies, and not unfrequently intersected with 
groves of first rate timbered land. The character 
of the soil is in general either a black sand or a rich 
loam. In the southeast corner of this county is an 
excellent tract of woodland, covered with a heavy 
but beautiful grove of sugar maple. Gull and 
Round prairies are the two largest in this county, 
and are equal to any in the territory for beauty and 
fertilitv. The first of these, Gull prairie, is situate 



APPENDIX. 311 

in the vicinity of a beautiful lake, as well as adja 
cent to the margin of a roman>tlc creek, both of 
which bear the same name. This lake is about four 
miles long, and its waters which are very transpa 
rent are said to contain white fish. The creek is 
very rapid and affords hydraulic privileges equal to 
any in the territory. Prairie Round, which lies in 
the southwest part of the county, is about four miles 
broad, and is principally surrounded vvith woodland ; 
near its centre there is a beautiful grove of timber 
of about a mile in diameter, consisting of sugar ma- 
ple, black walnut and hickorv. This county is well 
supplied with water. The Kalamazoo river which 
runs through it is a rapid meandering stream, yet 
navigable for boats. Its surface is frequently che- 
quered with islands and its banks occasionally bro- 
ken. 

Branch. — This county is attached to St. Jo- 
seph's. A large portion of it, particularly the south- 
ern part, is heavily timbered land, consisting princi- 
pally of black and white walnut, sugar maple, white- 
wood, lynn, and some other kinds in smaller quan- 
tities. The Chicago road which runs through the 
northern part of this county, passes principally 
through oak openings, which are occasionally inter- 
sected with prairies. 

Hillsdale. — This county is attached to Lenawee. 
The north part of it is principally oak openings of 
a good quality, but the southern part is heavily 
wooded with sugar maple, whitewood, beach, black 



513 APPENDIX. 

walnut, ash, &c. The face of this county is rather 
uneven and the soil in general consists of a rich 
black loam. The southern part is timbered land. 
This county is well supplied with water. The St. 
Joseph's of lake Michigan, as well as the St. Jo- 
seph's of Maumee, the Grand river, Tiffin's and the 
river Raisin all head in this county, and with their 
numerous branches water it in a beautiful manner. 

Leanewee County — contains at present about 
fifteen hundred inhabitants. The northern part of 
this county has much the same appearance as Wash- 
tenaw, but the southern part is principally timbered 
land. It contains a tamerack swamp of considera- 
ble extent in the southeast corner, yet notwithstand- 
ing, the character of its soil and climate is, gener- 
aly, very inviting. It is principally watered by the 
Ottawa creek. Tiffin's and Raisin rivers and their 
branches. It contains two villages each with a mill 
on their borders, namely, Tecumseh and Adrian — 
the former of which is the seat of justice for the 
county. It is situate at the junction of Landman's 
creek with the river Raisin, and lies about fifty-five 
miles southwest of Detroit. 

Barry, Eaton and Ingham Counties — lie on 
Grand river and its tributaries. This is the largest 
river in the peninsula. It empties into lake Mich- 
igan, two hundred and forty-five miles south of 
Michilimackinac, and forty-five miles north of the 
mouth of St. Joseph, is sixty rods wide at its mouth, 
and has sufficient depth of water to admit vessels 



APPENDIX. 313 

drawing eight feet. On its south bank, near its en- 
trance into the lake, is a pleasant situation for a 
town, the land being excellent, and gently inclining 
to the north and west, giving at the same time a 
fine view of the river and lake; but the opposite 
shore at the same place has a sandy, sterile appear- 
ance. 

For about sixty miles up this river, on the north 
side, the Ottawas hold possession. There are be- 
tween eight and nine hundred of these people living 
along Grand river and its tributaries, but many of 
their most populous villages are on land now be- 
longing to the United States. 

This river is the largest stream that waters the 
west part of the peninsula of Michigan, being two 
hundred and seventy miles in length, its windings 
included, and navigable two hundred and forty miles 
for batteaux : receiving in its course a great num- 
ber of tributary streams, among which are Portage, 
Red Cedar, Looking Glass, Soft Maple, Muscota, 
Flat, Rouge and Thorn Apple rivers. All of these, 
except the last named, put in on the right bank of 
the Grand river. Its south branch rises in the open 
country, near the source of the Raisin, and after 
pursuing a winding course of thirty miles, meet^ 
with the Portage river, which comes in from the east 
and intersects the above branch in town two south 
of range one west. 

Portage river, which has its course through a 
chain of low marshy prairies, is a deep, muddy 

27 



314 APPENDIX. 

stream, about fifteen yards wide at its mouth. Its 
branches interlock with those of the Huron of lake 
Erie, and the Indians pass from the former into the 
latter, with their canoes, by crossing a portage of 
one mile and a half. It is probable that at no dis- 
tant period, a canal will be constructed near the 
route of these two rivers, so as to afford a safe and 
easy inland communication between lakes Erie and 
Michigan. The distance from Detroit to the mouth 
of Grand river, by way of Michilimackinac, is five 
hundred and sixty miles. This route in the spring 
and fall is attended with much uncertainty ; and, in 
case of a war with the English, the navigation of 
the straits of Detroit and St. Clair would be ren- 
dered doubly dangerous. These difficulties would 
be obviated by a communication by water, through 
the interior. The land at the Portage rises forty 
or fifty feet above the level of the streams on each 
side ; but a level prairie two or three miles to the 
west of that place, is said to extend from one river 
to the other. 

From the junction of the Portage and south 
branches, this river pursues a northwest course till 
it meets with Soft Maple river, in town seven north 
of range six west ; receiving in that distance Red 
Cedar and Looking Glass rivers from the east, and 
Grindstone, Red and Sebewa creeks from the south 
and southwest. 

Grindstone creek, so named from a sandstone 
ledge through which it runs, empties into the river 



APPENDIX. 315 

about twenty miles below the mouth of the Portage 
branch. It is twenty miles long, affording several 
good sites for mills, and runs mostly through an open 
beautiful country ; but is in some instances skirted 
with bottoms of heavy timbered land. 

From the mouth of this creek to that of Looking 
Glass river, a distance of forty-five miles in a direct 
line, the Grand river runs through a tract of timber- 
ed land, which is several miles in extent on each 
side, abounding in creeks and springs of water, and 
bearing a growth of maple, basswood, cherry, oak, 
ash, whitewood, elm, black walnut, butternut, and 
some other kinds in lesser quantities. Below Look- 
ing Glass river, for forty or fifty miles, tracts of open 
land are found along the banks, but extensive forests 
immediately in the rear. The river bottoms are 
from a quarter of a mile to one mile in width, and 
the timbered lands are covered with a rank growth 
of rushes, (Equisetum hyemale) on which the Indi- 
ans keep their horses during the winter. It is found 
that cattle and horses do better on these rushes, than 
when kept on hay; and it would seem from their 
abundance, that nature here intended them as a 
substitute for that article. The surface of the land 
after leaving the river bottoms is roUing ; and it rises 
suflSciently high to give rapidity to the numerous 
creeks that so abundantly irrigate this part of the 
country. 

Red Cedar river is thirty-five yards wide, and 
puts in about midwav between Grindstone creek and 



316 



APPENDIX. 



Looking Glass river. It rises in Washtenaw and 
Shiawassee counties, and can be ascended in small 
boats twenty-five or thirty miles. A (ew miles be- 
low the mouth of this stream, is a ledge of sand- 
stone, which forms a perpendicular wall of twenty- 
five or thirty feet in height, on each side of the river. 
This ledge consists of square blocks of stone, of a 
suitable size to be used in building, and which are 
rendered more valuable, from the circumstance of 
their being on the banks of a large navigable river, 
which with its tributaries, will facilitate its transpor- 
tation to various sections of the territory. 

A bed of iron ore has been discovered in the 
northeast bank of the river immediately below this 
ledge ; and, indeed, many of the stones in the low- 
er part of the ledge, have a great resemblance to 
blocks of cast iron — presenting a rusty surface, very 
dense, and when broken, have, in a striking degree, 
the color and appearance of iron itself. 

Four miles above the mouth of the Looking Glass 
river, is the village of P'Shimnacon, (Apple land,) 
which is inhabited by eight or ten Ottawa families, 
who have a number of enclosed fields in which 
they raise corn, potatoes, and other vegetables usu- 
ally cultivated by the Indians. The village receives 
its name from Pyrus Coronaria, (Crab Apple,^ which 
grows in great abundance on the rich bottoms in 
its vicinity. Sebewa creek puts into the river on 
the southwest side, one mile above this village. It 
is about twenty miles long, sufficiently large for 



APPENDIX. 317 

mills, and for the last four miles is very rapid, with 
a hard, stony bottom. 

Looking Glass riv§r which is about forty yards 
wide, rises in Shiawassee county, and can be as- 
cended in canoes almost to its source. The coun- 
try near this river, for fifteen miles above its mouth, 
is what may be termed first rate timbered land; but 
above that point it is of an inferior quality, more 
open, and abounding in tamerack swamps and wet 
prairies. 

It is about eight miles by land from the mouth of 
Looking Glass to that of Soft Maple river, which is 
about sixty yards wide at its entrance into Grand 
river. It heads in Shiawassee and Saginaw coun- 
ties, and runs nearly a due west course until it unites 
with Grand river, at the Indian village of Chigau- 
mish-kene. This village consists of twenty-five 
houses, and has a population of near two hundred 
souls under the noted chief Cocoose. Here is about 
one thousand acres of bottom land, of a deep, black 
soil, that has been cleared by the Indians ; a part of 
which the ystill occupy as planting ground ; but the 
land at this village, as well as that at P'Shimnacon, 
has been ceded to the United States, and will no 
doubt, in a short time, be occupied by an industrious 
white population. There is a large trail leading 
from this village, by way of Shiawassee to Detroit, 
a distance of one hundred and thirty miles. 

The Grand river here changes its course ; and 
with the exception of twelve miles in length, below 

27* 



318 APPENDIX. 

Rouge river, runs nearly a west course to lake 
Michigan. 

Two miles further down, is*the entrance of Mus- 
cota river, (River of the Plains,) which comes in 
from the north, with a rapid current, and is about 
forty feet wide. The country through which it runs 
is but little known, as no lands have been surveyed 
north of Grand river, below Soft Maple. 

It is eighteen miles by land from the mouth of 
Muscota to that of Co-cob-au-gwosh, or Flat river, 
with several considerable creeks putting into Grand 
river, on each side, in the intermediate distance. 
Ke-wa-goosh-cum's Indian village is situate imme- 
diately below the mouth of Flat river, and consists 
of sixteen lodges. It is supposed that the line be- 
tween the United States and the Indian lands will 
intersect the Grand river near this place. 

Flat river is a shallow stream, about eight rods 
wide ; and in ascending has a general course of 
north by northeast. Of the country along this 
river, but little is at present known. It is report- 
ed, however, to be of a hilly, broken aspect; and 
many places near its source, to abound in lakes and 
swamps. There is a small lake that discharges its 
waters into this river, about sixty miles above its 
mouth, in which it is said by the Indians, that white 
fish are found in great numbers — a circumstance 
that is rendered more extraordinary, from the fact 
that this fish has never been seen near the mouth 
of Grand river, although it is often taken near the 



APPENDIX. 319 

entrances of most of the other tributaries of lake 
Michigan. 

It is ten miles from Flat to Thorn Apple river, 
which comes in from the south, and, with its nu- 
merous tributaries, waters a large extent of country. 
Its main branch rises in town two and three north 
of range three vyest, and after running a westerly 
course for more than forty miles, it takes a north- 
ward direction, in which it continues until it empties 
into Grand river, in the south part of town seven 
north of range two west. 

There is a suitable proportion both of open and 
timber land along this stream, and a great part of 
each kind may be termed first rate. Two Indian 
villages are situated at the distance of twenty and 
twenty-six miles up this river, and another at its 
mouth, under the Ottawa chief Nong-gee. The 
last mentioned village is inhabited by twelve or 
fourteen families who are by far the most industri- 
ous and respectable band that reside in that part of 
the country. 

Rouge river, is twenty miles, including the me- 
anderings, northwest of Thorn Apple river. It is 
about forty miles long, rising near the sources of the 
Maskegon, and has its banks shaded by lofty forests 
of white pine. From this place to Muck-a-ta-sha's 
village, a distance of twelve miles, the Grand river 
pursues a south direction ; after which it runs near- 
ly a due west course to lake Michigan. 



320 APPENDIX. 

Six miles above the mouth of the last mention- 
ed inlet, is a rapid of one mile in length, where the 
river, which is here fifty-two rods wide, is supposed 
to fall twenty-five feet. The banks at the head of 
the rapid, are not more than four feet above the 
level of the river, and they keep a horizontal level 
until you arrive at the foot of the rapid, where they 
are nearly thirty feet above the water ; and conse- 
quently afford convenient opportunities for profita- 
bly appropriating a part of the river, by means of a 
canal or sluice, to the use of mills or machinery. 

There is a missionary establishment, (the Thomas 
station) at this place, under the superintendence of 
the Rev. I. M'Coy. The mission family at present 
consists of a school teacher, a blacksmith, and two 
or three agriculturists. The school was open in 
the winter of 1827, and now has about thirty Indi- 
an children, who receive their board, clothing and 
tuition at the expense of the estabhshment. 

There is a trail leading southwest from the rapids 
to the Kalamazoo river, and thence to the rivers 
Raisin and Huron. Another leads directly to the 
mouth of Thorn Apple river, a distance of only ten 
miles on the trail, but twenty-five round the curve 
of the river. The country within this bend, ex- 
cepting immediately along the river, is of a rough, 
hilly character, a great part consisting of oak open- 
ings, of a barren appearance, with a few scattering 
groves of white pine. Most of the land, however, 
in the neighborhood of this tract, is of a good qual- 



APPENDIX. 32lf 

ity and timbered with all kinds that usually grow oil 
rich alluvial soils. 

There is a salt spring four miles below the rap- 
ids, which rises out of the ground about half a mile 
from the river on the east side. The water is said 
to be, both as to quantity and quality, sufficient to 
warrant the establishment of works for the manu- 
facturing of that useful article. Near this place 
is also a bed of gypsum, of a fine quality, which 
will probably, in time, be of great importance to 
agriculturlists in many of the western parts of 
Michigan. 

Muck-a-ta-sha, or Blackskin's village, is six miles 
below the rapids, and is near the bend of the river, 
on an elevated prairie. There is also another vil- 
lage twenty miles lower down the river. From the 
rapids to the lake, a distance of thirty-six miles, the 
river is no where less than four feet deep. The 
current at the former place is too powerful to be 
ascended with loaded boats. The country along 
the river for the first fifteen or twenty miles above 
the lake is generally level, and in many instances 
swampy, with lofty forests, of various kinds of tim- 
ber, and bearing an almost impenetrable thicket of 
undergrowth. 

The country wateredby the Grand river, consists 
of between six and seven thousand square miles; 
and considering its central position in the territory, 
the general fertility of the soil on the several 
branches of that stream, the convenience of a safe 



323 APPENDIX, , , 

and good harbor at its mouth, together with its many 
other important natural advantages, we may be fully 
justified in the opinion, that it will, at no very dis- 
tant period, become one of the most important sec- 
tions of Michigan. 



SKETCH 



OF THE 



TEXIAN REVOLUTION, 



First Campaign. 

As the inhabitants of Texas are chiefly emi- 
grants from the United States, and have buckled on 
their armor in a contest for hberty and indepen- 
dence, it is natural that Americans should feel a 
strong sympathy in their behalf. The sons of free- 
dom can never be indifferent and unconcerned, in 
a struggle between liberty and despotic power, how- 
ever remote the theatre of action ; but when such a 
war is waged by their neighbors and friends, and 
Freedom the prize to be lost or won, the deep feel- 
ing pervading American breasts, cannot be suppress- 
ed. 

When Centralism was established, the State gov- 
ernments annihilated, and Santa Anna, by aid of 
the priests and the army, proclaimed himself mon- 
arch of Mexico, united Texas arose as one man, to 
oppose the usurpation. Although an infant of but 



324 



APPENDIX 



yesterday, and but slightly armed for battle, yet she 
has a vigorous arm, and a heart that will never quail 
before the minions of despotic power. Relying up- 
on the justice of her cause, and calHng upon the 
friends of liberty for aid, she goes forth undismayed, 
to meet the giant strength of Mexico combined. — 
Her call for aid, has been heard throughout the 
Mississippi valley, and along the whole Atlantic 
coast, and has been fully answered. Soldiers, arms, 
ammunition and treasure have poured into Texas 
from all quarters; and in number and quantity, equal 
to the exigency of the case. Texas has gloriously 
triumphed. The invading foe has been completely 
routed — her first campaign is ended, and not a hos- 
tile band is found upon her soil. 

In order to understand the situation of Texas, 
and the causes of the present civil war, it is neces- 
sary briefly to advert to the history of the Mexican 
Republic. It is well known, that the Province of 
Mexico had a long and severe struggle to throw off 
the Spanish yoke, and to become independent of 
Old Spain. At length, a constitution was formed, 
after the model of that of the United States, and a 
Republican government established. In 1824, Itur- 
bide overthrew this Republican government, estab- 
lished an Empire, and placed himself at its head. — 
His reign was of but short duration. The army, 
under the lead and direction of three military chief- 
tains, named Victoria, Bravo and Santa Anna, thp 
very person who is now playing the game of Empe- 



APPENDIX. 325 

ror, made a prisoner of Iturbide, banished him with 
an annuity of twenty-five thousand dollars, and re- 
stored the constitution. After passing a year in Eu- 
rope, Iturbide returned to Mexico to recover his 
Empire, but was taken prisoner and shot. 

The republic was continued with frequent com- 
motions and revolutions. On one occasion Ped- 
rassa, a civilian, w^as fairly elected President, in v 
contest with Gen. Guerrero. Guerrero denounced 
Ped rassa, placed himself at the head Df the army, 
succeeded in expelling Pedrassa from the country, 
and was made President by the force of his bayo- 
nets. The people soon became discontented, in- 
surrection spread over the country, Guerrero was in 
turn compelled to yield, and was finally taken pris- 
oner, condemned and shot as a traitor. The suc- 
ceeding faction of Bustamente was in turn put dovvn^ 
and after various commotions by contending fac- 
tions, Santa Anna contrived, with the aid of the Ar- 
my and Clergy to unite the interests of Church and 
State, and to place himself at the head of the gov- 
ernment. The old constitution was annulled, and 
Santa Anna was acknowledged as Chief of a Cen- 
tral Government. The State Governments were 
merged in Centralism, and Santa Anna is to all in- 
tents and purposes Monarch of Mexico. 

At this conjuncture of aflfairs, all the States and 
Territories submitted to the overwhelming power 
of the Dictator, but Texas. This province having 
been peopled by emigrants from the United States, 

28 



326 APPENDIX. 

by a people accustomed to free institutions, — revol- 
ted at the idea of despotism, and they nobly resolv- 
ed not to come under the yoke, but to establish an 
independent Government of their own. This is a 
simple statement of the case, and their cause is one 
that is calculated to enlist the sympathies of the peo- 
ple of this country. Since the determination of 
the people of Texas has been known, it is under- 
stood that several other Mexican States have shown 
disaffection to the Central Government, and, judg- 
ing from the vicissitudes of the past, it may be safe- 
ly predicted, that in the course of another year or 
two, Santa Anna himself will be expelled, or shot, 
and the Constitution restored. 

But lest the cause in which the Texians are now 
engaged, may not be fully understood, let us state 
a parallel case. Suppose that the President and 
Congress should abrogate the constitution of the 
United States, abolish all the State governments, 
and establish Romanism as the religion of the coun- 
try : and if the governor of any State attempted to 
exercise any authority, send an armed force to ar- 
rest and imprison him. What would the people 
of the several States say to this ? Would they tame- 
ly submit, as though they had no cause of com- 
plaint ; or would they not rather, rise en masse, as- 
sert their rights, and put down these high-handed 
usurpers, at the point of the bayonet ? Most assu- 
redly they would. 



APPENDIX. S21 

Many of the States have been thrown into vio- 
lent commotion, and even resorted to arms, for 
causes immeasurably less, than that of the Texians. 
The State of Maine vi^ere aroused to a man, be- 
cause the British Government attempted to exer- 
cise jurisdiction over a strip of the wilderness and 
a few log houses, on her eastern border. The State 
of New-Hampshire called an army into the field, to 
support her doubtful title, to the unimportant set- 
tlement of Indian Stream. The State of Georgia 
rose to arms, because the Indians did not give up 
their lands, quite so soon as they expected. The 
States of Ohio and Michigan have long been in a 
feverish excitement, and have resorted to arms, on 
a simply legal question, which State shall exercise 
jurisdiction over a few thousand acres of land. And 
the people of the whole United States were thrown 
into a violent commotion, on the question, whether 
slavery should be tolerated in the State of Mis- 
souri. 

And can it be thought strange by Americans, so 
jealous of their own rights, that the Texians are 
alarmed to see their constitution annulled, their 
State government subverted, and all the dearest 
rights which civilized man holds dear, put in jeop- 
ardy? Is it a matter of wonder, that they have 
appealed to arms, cast an anxious look to American 
freemen, and sent forth their spirit-stirring appeals 
for aid? To such an appeal Americans cannot 



328 APPENDIX. 

turn a deaf ear ; nor will they stand with folded 
arms, and see the battle rage. 

Under the constitution of 1824, Mexico was a 
confederated republic, after the model of the Uni- 
ted States, having a President, Vice President, Sen- 
ate and House of Representatives, as a central gov- 
ernment, and separate governments for each State, 
and provincial governments for certain Territories, 
in all material respects similar to the institutions of 
this country. 

Under this organization, Texas and Coahuila 
were formed into one State of the Mexican Confed- 
eracy ; but as the one was settled by Americans, and 
the other by Spaniards, there never has been mud 
harmony and good feeling between them. It hs 
long been an object of strong desire among the pe< 
pie of Texas, to be disjoined from Coahuila, a 
formed into a separate State. To accomplish 
desirable object. Col. Austin was appointed an agent 
to the Congress at Mexico, near the close of 1833. 
After spending some months at the seat of govern- 
ment^ and making various efforts to have Texas form- 
ed into an integral State, separate from Coahuila, 
despairing of being able to accomplish it, in the 
then distracted state of affairs, he started to return 
home. He had not proceeded far, before he was 
arrested on a charge of high treason, carried back 
to Mexico, and imprisoned. For a time, he was 
kept in close confinement ; and then, let out under 
bonds to keep within the hmits of the city. He had 



APPENDIX. 329 

been a prisoner more than a year, being unable to 
obtain either a trial or a release, when the govern- 
ment was subverted, and Centralism established. 

Santa Anna, becoming alarmed at the public 
meetings, and show of opposition in Texas, conclu- 
ded to release Col. Austin, and send him as a spe- 
cial messenger, to allay the excitement. He re- 
quested him to state to the Texians, that he felt 
deeply interested in their welfare ; and that in the 
new organization of the government, he would use 
his influence to give to the people of Texas, such 
laws and regulations as- were suited to their habits 
and situation. 

Col. Austin faithfully delivered this message to 
the people of Texas, at a public dinner given to 
welcome his return, on the eighth of October last. 
But it was now too late to listen to the fair prom- 
ises of Santa Anna. The country was in a state of 
extraordinary excitement, and on the eve of a rev- 
olution. Santa Anna, it seems, could threaten and 
punish, as well as conciliate and persuade. He ar- 
rested the Governor of Coahuila and Texas, — 
threatened an invasion — the confiscation and sale 
of a large tract of settled territory — and an imposi- 
tion of heavy taxes upon the commerce of the coun- 
try. The people of Texas aroused to the defence 
of their constitutional rights, and to resist oppres- 
sion. They held to the constitution of 1824, and 
refused to adopt Centralism. Public meetings were 
held in all the principal towns and villages. At Co- 

28* 



S30 APPENDIX. 

lumbia, IJarrisburg, Velasco, Brazoria and San Fe- 
lipe, resolutions were adopted, expressive of indig- 
nation at the proceedings of Santa Anna and the 
leneral Government, and of a determination to re- 
st them. Committees of safety were appointed, 
\ \d a general convention called. By the aid of 
'ol. Austin and Gen. Houston of St. Augustine, 
orces were organized to repel the threatened inva- 
"on. Col. Austin by the assistance of others, rais- 
d a regiment of six or seven hundred riflemen ; and 
ren. Houston, by the aid of volunteers from the 
Tnited States, was soon enabled to take the field, 
it the head of as many more. 

Santa Anna, in the mean time, was not idle. — 
•e concentrated his forces at Saltillo under the 
)mmand of General Cos, After the army had be- 
•me organized and in sufficient force. Gen. Cos 
arched to San Antonio, and took possession of the 
iwn. Another force was stationed at Goliad, six- 
miles south of San Antonio. 
To enforce the revenue laws, Santa Anna sent 
n armed schooner, called the Correo, under the 
ommand of Capt. Thompson, to the mouth of the 
'>razos river. This schooner, joined by a small arm- 
i sloop, attacked the schooner San Felipe, a regu- 
-r trader between the Brazos and New-Orleans com- 
landed by Capt. Hurd. This was about the first of 
September. It appears from a statement signed by 
lie passengers of the San Felipe, that the Correo had 
ired at a steamboat while engaged in lightipg the 



APPENDIX. 331 

American brig Tremont, lying at anchor off the bar, 
previously to her attack on the San Felipe. 

As soon as the steamboat had gone inside the bar, 
the Correo was joined by a small armed sloop, and 
both stood for the San Felipe, and opened fire up- 
on her without ceremony, the moment they arrived 
within shot. But Captain Hurd, suspecting their 
intention to be of a hostile nature, from their first 
appearance, and having arms on board, gallantly 
gave battle and put them to flight, after a combat 
which lasted nearly an hour. 

The next morning, the Correo was discovered 
about five miles distant, upon which she was chased 
by the San Felipe, (towed by the steamboat,) and 
overtaken and obliged to surrender. 

The first battle fought on the land was on the 
second day of October 1835, near the town of 
Gonzales; and from this circumstance, it has ob- 
tained the enviable distinction, of being the Lexing- 
ton of Texas. The circumstances attending the 
commencement of hostihties, ought to be stated with 
some minuteness. 

Some years since, when Gonzales, the capital of 
De Witt's Colony, was exposed to the depredations 
of the Indians, the people there applied to the au- 
thorities of San Antonio for a piece of artillery 
to protect that frontier. The apphcation was 
granted ; and they obtained a brass six pounder. 
This was kept for defence until the settlement be- 
came strong — aiid afterwards it lay about the streets 



332 APPENDIX* 

upon the ground, (unmounted^ and served to make 
a noise whenever the people got into a merry 
frohc. The military commandent of San Anto- 
nio, (Col. Ugartechea,) two or three weeks previ- 
ous, feehng sufficiently strong to make an attack 
upon the Colonies, demanded the gun. The peo- 
ple took the matter into consideration. The gun 
was once the property of the King of Spain ; and 
he lost it with the sovereignty of the country. The 
Federal Republic of Mexico became the owner. 
The people of Gonzales returned for answer, in 
substance, that the gun was the property of the Con- 
federation which they acknowledged, and not of 
the Central government, which they did not ac- 
knowledge ; and they would not give it up to any 
officer of the Central Government. 

Ugartechea ordered a detachment of his troops to 
march seventy-six miles, and take the gun by force. 
The colonies assembled to oppose him. Expresses 
were despatched to all parts of the country. The 
news flew with the speed of the race horse. The 
people rose to arms — and marched for the battle 
field. 

Gonzales is situated on the eastern bank of the 
river Gaudaloupe, 150 miles west of San Felipe; 
and on the twentieth of September, the detachment 
of troops from San Antonio, about two hundred in 
number, made their appearance on the western 
bank of the river, opposite the town. They at- 
tempted the passage of the river, but after a sharp 



APPENDIX. 333 

skirmish, were repulsed by eighteen men, the whole 
force then at Gonzales. The enemy retired a short 
distance, and encamped on the mound at De Witt's. 
On the first of October, about 12 o'clock, they took 
up their march and encamped about seven miles 
above this place, in a very strong position. Sus- 
pecting that their object in this movement was eith- 
er to wait for a reinforcement from San Antonio, 
or to cross at the upper crossing, about fifteen miles 
above, it was determined to attack them before 
their plans could be carried into execution. Ac- 
cordingly, on the same night, the whole force on 
foot, amounting then to about one hundred and six- 
ty men, from the Gaudaloupe, Colorado, and La 
Baca, commanded by Col. J. H. Moore, crossed the 
river, attacked the enemy about day break, -and put 
them to flight without the loss of a single man. — 
Thirty or forty of the enemy were reported to have 
been killed and wounded. This was a brilliant 
commencement of the Texian Revolutionary War. 

The next, and more important battle, took place 
on the ninth of October, and resulted in the cap- 
ture of the fort and town of Goliad. The attack- 
ing party were a company of volunteers, from the fer- 
tile banks of the Caney, and from the town of Mat- 
agorda — a place destined to become an important 
city, situated at the mouth of the Colorado river. 

Before this party entered the field, most of the 
volunteers were at Gonzales— and fearing that the 
harvest of honors would be reaped before they could 



334 APPENDIX. 

arrive there — they struck off from La Baca with the 
daring determination of taking GoHad by surprise. 

Goliad is situated on the southwest side of the 
San Antonio river, thirty leagues below Bexar, and 
it is fifteen leagues from Copano, the landing place 
of Aransas bay, and about the same distance from 
the La Baca and of Matagorda bay. The fort is 
built upon the point of a very steep hill, formed of 
rocks, with a deep ravine upon one side and a low 
prairie upon the opposite — while a broad elevated 
prairie extends towards the southwest. 

The walls of the fort are of stone and lime, and 
bear in many places the marks of the storms of an 
hundred winters, but are still proof against any 
thing less than the batterings of heavy artillery. 

A long forced march brought the van guard of 
the colonists to the San Antonio river ford, below 
the town, at 11 o'clock on the night of the ninth 
of October. Here they halted for the main body, 
and to make arrangements for the attack. A very 
small parly were sent into the town,and they brought 
outjwith the utmost secrecy, a worthy citizen friend- 
ly to the constitution of 1824. And by his assist- 
ance guides were produced perfectly acquainted 
with the place. 

The main body of the colonists missed their road 
in the night, and before they found out their mis- 
take, were at the upper ford, immediately opposite 
the town. They then struck across, for a short cut, 
to the position occupied by the van guard. The 



APPENDIX. 335 

route lay through a muskeet thicket. The muskeet 
is a tree of the locust family, full of thorns, and at 
a short distance resembles the common peach tree 
in size and appearance. While the parties were 
treading their way in this thicket, the horse of one of 
them started in affright at an object beneath a bush. 
The rider checked his horse and said, who's there ? 
A voice answered in Spanish. One of the party 
supposed that he recognized in the voice an old ac- 
quaintance of Goliad, asked if it was not he, men- 
tioning his name. " No," was the reply, " my name 
is Milam." 

Col. Milam is a native of Kentucky. At the 
commencement of the Mexican war of independ- 
ence, he engaged in the cause, and assisted in es- 
tablishing the independence of the country. When 
Iturbide assumed the purple, Milam's repubhcan 
principles placed him in fetters — dragged him to 
the city of Mexico, and confined him in prison un- 
til the usurper was dethroned. When Santa Anna 
assumed the dictatorship, the republican Milam was 
again thrust into the prison at Monterry. But his 
past services and sufferings wrought upon the sym- 
pathies of his hard-hearted jailors. 

They allowed him the luxury of the bath. He 
profited by the indulgence and niade arrangements 
with an old compatriot, to place a fleet horse suita- 
bly equipped upon the bank of the stream, at a 
time appointed. The colonel passed the sentinel 



336 APPENDIX 

as he was wont to go into the water — walked qui- 
etly on — mounted the horse and fled. 

Four hundred miles would place him in safety. 
The noble horse did his duty, and bore the colonel 
clear of all pursuit to tlie place where the party 
surprised him. At first he supposed himself in the 
power of his enemy — but the English language 
soon convinced him, that he was in the midst of 
his countrymen. 

He had never heard that Texas was making an 
effort to save herself. No whisper of the kind had 
been allowed to pass the grates of his prison. — ■ 
When he learned the object of the party, his heart 
was full. He could not speak for joy. 

When the company arrived at the lower ford, 
they divided themselves into four parties of twelve 
men each. One party remained as a guard with 
the horses. The other three, each with a guide, 
marched by different routes to the assault. 

Their axes hewed down the door where the colo- 
nel commanding the place slept — and he was taken 
a prisoner from his bed. A sentinel hailed, and 
fired. A rifle ball laid him dead upon the spot. — 
The discharge of fire arms and the noise of human 
voices now became blended. The Mexican sol- 
diers fired from their quarters, and the blaze of their 
guns served as targets for the colonist riflemen. 

The garrison were called to surrender, and the 
call was translated by a gentleman present, who 
spoke the language. They asked for terms. 



APPENDIX. 337 

The interpreter now became the chief speaker. 
' No,' answered he. 'They say they will massacre 
every one of you, unless you come out immediate- 
ly and surrender. Come out — come out quick — 
I cannot keep them back — come out, if you wish 
to save your lives' — I can keep them back no longer. 
' O, do for God's sake keep them back,' answered 
the Mexicans in their own language. ' We will 
come out and surrender immediately,' — and they 
rushed out with all possible speed and laid down 
their arms. 

And thus was the fort of Goliad taken — a fort 
which, with a garrison of three hundred and fifty 
patriots in the war of 1812-13, withstood the siege 
of an army of more than two thousand Spanish 
troops, and forced them to retire, discomfited. 

At the capture of the fort, three Mexican sol- 
diers were killed and seven wounded ; and one colo- 
nel, one captain, one lieutenant, with twenty-one 
petty officers and privates were made prisoners — 
others of the garrison escaped in the dark and fled. 

In the fort were found two pieces of brass can- 
non, five hundred muskets and carbines, six hundred 
spears, with ammunition and provisions. 

One of the colonists, only, was wounded in the 
shoulder. 

Col. Milam assisted in the capture of the fort, 
and then he spoke : — " I assisted Mexico to gain 
her independence ; I have spent more than twenty 
years of my life in her service ; I have endured heat 

29 



338 APPENDIX 

and cold, hunger and thirst ; I have borne losses 
and suffered persecutions ; I have been a tenant of 
every prison between this and Mexico — but the 
events of this night have compensated me for all 
my losses and all my sufferings." 

The colonists were commanded by Gen. M. Col- 
lingsworth — but it would be difficult to find in the 
company, a man not qualified for the command. 

Goliad is of vastly more importance in a milita- 
ry point of view, than San Antonio, as the latter is 
in a valley upon the banks of the river, and com- 
manded by the hills on each side, and is therefore 
indefensible. 

The news of the capture of Goliad was hailed 
with enthusiastic joy throughout Texas. A general 
enthusiasm prevailed. Col. Austin, elected Gener- 
al of the volunteer forces, made his head quarters 
at Gonzales, one hundred and fifty miles west of 
San Felipe, and seventy-five miles east of San An- 
tonio. A declaration of rights under the constitu- 
tion of 1824 was published, and circulated through- 
out the country. 

On the thirteenth of October, Gen. Austin, as 
commander-in-chief, left Gonzales with the main ar- 
my, for San Antonio. On the twentieth, a divis- 
ion arrived at Salada, within five miles of San An- 
tonio. On their march, they came in contact with 
the advanced guard of the enemy, who retired at 
their approach. On the twenty-seventh, a detach- 
ment of Gen. Cos' cavalry, out on a foraging ex- 



APPENDIX. 339 

pedition, were attacked by a party of Texians, and 
by them defeated with the loss of thirty-five horses, 
and suffering in killed and wounded to the number 
of fifty men. The loss of the Texians, three men 
slightly wounded. 

Cos' detachment of cavalry consisted of about 
one hundred and fifty men, which, before the en- 
gagement was concluded, were re-inforced by one 
hundred and fifty infantry ; the party of Texians 
employed in the assault amounting to about the 
same number. 

On the twenty-eighth, a detachment of ninety 
men, under the command of Col. Jas. Bowie and 
Capt. Fanning, advanced and took possession of a 
church, within a mile and a half of San Antonio. 
The Mexicans to the number of three hundred cav- 
alry and one hundred infantry, under the command 
of Col. Utartacher, sallying out from the city, made 
an attack upon Bowie's forces, and after an engage- 
ment of three hour's duration, were repulsed with 
the loss of one piece of artillery and forty muskets, 
leaving eighteen men dead upon tlie field. The 
only loss on the side of the Texians, was one man 
mortally wounded, and a few horses. The main 
body of the army came up soon after the enemy 
had retired. 

Gen. Austin, that there might be no mistake res- 
pecting the principles upon which he acted, sent a 
eommunication to Gen. Cos, by a Mexican, stating 
that he was supporting the principles of the consti- 



340 APPENDIX. 

tution of 1824, and inquiring how his flag would 
be received ? His reply was, '' disband your forces, 
return home peaceably, and then perhaps I will list- 
en to your petitions ; at present I can only regard 
you as rebels and traitors.'^ 

In the mean time, something like a regular army, 
composed of Texians and volunteer companies from 
the United States, was organized, and Gen. Hous- 
ton, formerly Governor of Tennessee, and for some 
years a resident in Texas, was appointed the com- 
mander. On his arrival at Gonzales, the force un- 
der his command amounted to about a thousand 
men. 

The Texian army, at length, concentrated their 
forces, and besieged the town of San Antonio.-— 
This is a walled town, containing three thousand 
five hundred inhabitants. Gen. Cos found himself 
in a critical situation. His army amounted to about 
a thousand men, but the besieging army pressed him 
so close, he was obliged to keep within the walls of 
the town. He soon became in want of provisions, 
but he was too closely watched to obtain a supply. 
The besiegers believing he would be forced to sur- 
render without a battle, concluded patiently to wait 
the event. 

In this state of the case, it was thought advisa- 
ble to send commissioners to the United States, 
with plenary power to negotiate loans, &c., in pre- 
paration for another campaign. Gen. Austin and 
Messrs. Archer and Wharton were accordingly ap- 



APPENDIX. 341 

pointed. Edward Burlisson was elected to fill the 
vacancy occasioned by the resignation of Gen. Aus- 
tin, and W. H. Jack was promoted to the second 
in command. 

The comm.issioners immediately left the army, 
and proceeded to the United States. They arrived 
at New-Orleans on the thhd day of January, and 
succeeded in effecting a loan there of two hundred 
thousand dollars. They then started up the Mis- 
sissippi river, intending to visit the seat of govern- 
ment at Washington. 

The Texian army besieged San Antonio more 
than a month ; during which time, the Mexican 
forces were confined strictly within the walls of the 
city. The moment a sentinel ventured without, he 
was shot by some of the riflemen. The garrison 
became almost destitute of provisions, and the sur- 
render of the place w^as anticipated daily. 

At this juncture, news arrived, that a large rein- 
forcement of Mexican troops were near at hand, to 
relieve the garrison. This determined the besieg- 
ing army to storm the city immediately. It was on 
the sixth day of December last, when the assault 
commenced. The brave Col. Milam, at the head 
of three hundred choice troops, led the attack. — 
The assault was so sudden and vehement, that 
neither walls nor men could successfully oppose it. 
After a sharp conflict, in which the assailants per- 
formed wonders, the city was gallantly taken, and 
the garrison made prisoners. This had hardly been 
29* 



342 APPENDIX. 

accomplished, when the Mexican reinforcement 
came up, just in time to lay down their arms to the 
victors. By this victory, twelve hundred meri were 
made prisoners ; and the Texians obtained tWQ 
thousand stands of arms, thirty pieces of cannouj 
and a large amount of military stores, camp-equip- 
ments and horses, estimated to be worth five hun- 
dred thousand dollars. The loss of the enemy in 
killed and wounded, we have never seen stated ;— 
on the part of the Texians, fifteen were wounded, 
and the brave Col. Milam and four others, killed. 
Col. Milam was mainly instrumental in the com- 
plete success of the assault, and fell a victim to his 
own zeal and intrepidity. The death of this estim- 
able man, turned the joy of victory into sadness. 
Like the lamented Warren of Bunker Hill, he fell 
early in his country's struggle for independence ; — • 
and like him, his untimely exit was deeply deplored. 
A native of Kentucky, he possessed in an emin- 
ent degree, the chivalry and noble bearing, so con- 
spicuous in the land of his birth. In early life, he 
left his native State. He was the intrepid command- 
er of the steamboat, that first threaded the mazes 
pf Red river, beyond the great raft. At the com- 
mencement of the severe contest in Mexico, to 
throw off the Spanish yoke, he was engaged in 
her cause. In the many sanguinary battles with 
the armies of Spain and savage Indians, during that 
long and bloody war, he was engaged, and shone 
ponspicuous. A noble spirited and an unyielding 



APPENDIX. 343 

patriot himself, he found at last, to his sorrow and 
regret, that the people, whom he aided to establish 
independence, were unworthy of the cause in which 
ithey were engaged. They did not understand the 
vtrue principles of liberty, and knew not the value 
,of its blessings. No sooner were they freed from 
foreign oppression, than anarchy and confusion 
reigned at home. Revolutions and counter-revo- 
lutions rapidly succeeded each other ; and the un- 
yielding Milam, alternately became a favorite and a 
prisoner. He had so many times been arrested and 
released, that he had been a tenant of every prison, 
from Texas to the city of Mexico. Vv^hen restored 
to favor, by a fortunate turn of the revolutionary 
wheel, rewards were offered him. But his suffer- 
ings only were real; his rewards but mocked his 
vision. Like the rainbow in the heavens, they fled 
at his approach. 

Years ago, he obtained a grant for a colony, on 
the south bank of the beautiful Colorado, a hundred 
miles from its mouth ; but before he could make 
arrangements for its setdement, the grant was an- 
nulled, and he imprisoned. Misfortune seems to 
have marked him for her game. For a series of 
years, as if the intention were to mock and tanta- 
lize him, his grant would be alternately cancelled 
and confirmed. 

Near the close of the year 1834, when the writer 
of this sketch saw him in Texas, his grant had been 
renewed under favorable auspices, and the prospect 



344 APPENDIX. 

before him appeared unusually flattering. But it 
was only the calm, bright sunshine, that precedes 
the tempest. He had hardly made arrangements 
to people his colony, and settle down in quiet re- 
pose, after so many years of disappointment, toil 
and suffering, when another revolution brought San- 
ta Anna into power, and the patriot Milam was 
again arrested and thrust into the prison of Mon- 
terry ! 

But in all the changes of fortune, \vh8ther favor- 
able or adverse, he never abjured his principles. — • 
The unconquerable love of liberty, that animated 
him throughout his whole career, never once for- 
sook him. His spirit never quailed before the min- 
ions of power — his courage never abated — and his 
vigorous arm never tired. 

By stratagem, he escaped from his prison, Justin 
time to render efficient aid in the capture of Goli- 
ad ; and then, he hastened on to San Antonio,where 
he gloriously fell in the arms of victory — a martyr 
to the cause he had, with a steady aim, so nobly es- 
poused and ably defended. But his memory will 
live in the hearts of a gallant people ; and, in after 
times, his name will be duly honored in the celebra- 
tion of their victories, and in their songs of tri- 
umph. ' 

The capture of San Antonio completed the tri- 
umph of the Texian arms. Not an armed Mexi- 
can soldier could then be found in her territory. — 
Gen,. Cos was released on his parole of honor, not 



APPENDIX. 345 

to serve during the war, unless regularly exchang- 
ed ; the other officers and soldiers were retained 
prisoners of war. 

We have now given an account of all the battles 
fought within the limits of Texas ; but it may be 
proper to add some account of Gen. Mexia's expe- 
dition against Tampico. 

On the sixth day of November last, one hundred 
and thirty men, chiefly Americans, embarked at 
New-Orleans on board the schooner Mary Jane for 
Texas. It was understood, that this vessel had been 
chartered by a committee, to convey emigrants to 
that country ; and on their arrival, it was to be op- 
tional with them, whether they joined the Texian 
army, or not. Gen. Mexia and his staff were on 
board this vessel : but no intimation was given to 
the passengers, that the vessel had any other des- 
tination than Texas, until they arrived off the port 
of Tampico. They were then told, by Capt. Haw- 
kins, one of Gen. Mexia's aids, that the object was 
to capture Tampico — and the passengers were urg- 
ed to join the General's standard. About fifty on- 
ly, most of whom were French and Creoles of New- 
Orleans, were induced to join his standard. A 
steamboat took the vessel in tow, but, in attempt- 
ing to run into the port in the night, they both 
struck the north breakers. In this critical situation, 
efforts were made to land the passengers, which at 
much risk was at length effected, during the latter 
part of the night and early in the morning. The 



346 APPENDIX. 

fort, at the mouth of the harbor, surrendered with- 
out an attack. Arms and ammunition were then 
tendered to the party. Some took them from curi- 
osity, some from necessity, and others on compul- 
sion. Most of the Americans, on account of the 
deception practiced upon them, in landing at Tam- 
pico instead of Texas, were determined not to fight, 
but to surrender themselves prisoners the first op- 
portunity. 

The next day, the party, to the number of one 
hundred and eighty, marclied to attack the town; 
but meeting with a warmer reception than they ex- 
pected, they retreated to the fort. Here they found 
about thirty missing — all but two or three having 
deserted on the retreat. The General, deeming it 
advisable to leave the place, embarked with his men 
on board the schooner Halcyon, bound to Brazoria 
in Texas. 

The deserters were taken prisoners the next day, 
by a company of horse, and imprisoned. After re- 
maining in prison about a month, they were tried 
by a court martial ; and although all these facts ap- 
peared at the trial, they were all condemned to be 
shot ! Some attempts were made to avert their 
fate. A petition, signed by the prisoners and a 
number of Mexicans, was sent to the Commandant 
of the place, but it availed nothing. The sentence 
of death was promulgated to these hapless victims of 
treachery, on the afternoon of Saturday ; and at 
sunrise the succeeding Monday, which was the four-" 



APPENDIX. 347 

teenth day of December, they were all brought out 
of prison, and shot ! Twenty-eight men, many of 
them mere youths, in a distant land, far away from 
friends, at a few hours notice, butchered in cold 
blood! Humanity recoils at the perpetration of 
such barbarous deeds as this. Such summary pro- 
ceedings, dictated by savage vengeance, cannot, on 
any ground, be either justified or excused. 

But such has been the character of the wars in 
South America, ever since the Spanish Colonies 
strove to shake off the yoke of dependence, for 
more than a quarter of a century. A war of ex- 
termination was carried on by the Spaniards and the 
Patriots — no quarter was granted in the field — the 
blood of prisoners was shed like water — and a re- 
cital of the wanton cruelties and barbarities com- 
mitted by both parties, during this state of protract- 
ed hostihty, would cause even the savage to shudder 
with horror. These circumstances, as well as the 
whole course of conduct of the Spaniards, in rela- 
tion to the inhabitants of the Leeward Islands, 
Mexico and Peru, are enough to establish their 
character as the most cruel and sanguinary people 
on earth. 

We have mentioned that a large number of vol- 
unteers from the United States had gone to Texas, 
to aid the people in their struggle for independence. 
Three companies, numbering more than five hun- 
dred men, went from New-Orleans. Cincinnati, 
Natchez and Mobile, each furnished a company. — 



348 APPENDIX. 

And travellers state that they met small parties of 
volunteers, continually on the road, hurrying on to 
assist the Texians. Many of these arrived in time 
to be of much service in the last campaign ; but 
one company, from the city of New- York, owing 
to the misconduct of a portion of them, were de- 
tained on the way ; and, probably, have not arrived 
in Texas. 

This party was Col. Stanly's regiment of volun- 
teers, amounting to about two hundred men. They 
started from New- York in the brig Madawaska, 
about the middle of November. After ten day's 
sail, they found themselves among the Bahama banks 
and islands. The Captain of the brig, never hav- 
ing sailed the route before, became bewildered 
among the islands. At length he made a harbor 
at the island of Eleuthera, and sent a boat on shore 
containing seventeen men. On the island, they 
found the inhabitants to consist principally of blacks. 
Having indulged themselves pretty freely in spirits, 
and finding the inhabitants rather weak and igno- 
rant, they commenced hostilities upon their effects, 
such as fowls, pigs, Indian meal, &c., and so terri- 
fied the people, that they would do whatever they 
required. They commanded them with loaded pis- 
tols at their heads, and threatened them with in- 
stant death if they disobeyed. 

This indiscreet conduct of course occasioned an 
excited feeling, on being made known at the Eng- 
lish naval station at Nassau, and two gun ships were 



APPENDIX. 349 

immediately sent in pursuit^ with strict orders to 
board and put all to death, if any resistance was 
made. After cruising about a week, one of the 
ships came up with the Madawaska, and made them 
all prisoners, on a charge of piracy. They were 
carried into the port of Nassau in New-Providence, 
and there put in prison. In the course of a week, 
the matter was fully investigated, which resulted in 
the discharge of all but Col. Stanley and ten oth- 
ers, who were detained to await their trial for felony. 
The result of this trial is not now known ; but if 
found guilty, the punishment by the English laws is 
known to be severe. 

The remaining incidents worthy of note, con- 
nected with the Texian Revolution, may be stated 
in a few words. The General Consultation con- 
vened at San Felipe on the fifteenth of October. — 
An address to the people of the United States was 
adopted, appealing to our citizens for aid. Strong 
appeals were also made by the Council to the patri- 
otism of the people of Texas. The Council then 
adjourned to the first of November ; but the peo- 
ple were so much engaged on the frontier, that no 
meeting was held at that time. 

On the twenty-second day of December, a doc- 
ument was published at Goliad, signed by a great 
number of persons, chiefly Americans, declaring 
Texas " a free, sovereign and independent State.^'' 
The declaration enters somewhat at length into the 
condition of Texas, deplores the leniency of the 

30 



350 APPENDIX. 

Texian government in permitting Cos to capitulate, 
and affirms that many of the officers, civil and mil- 
itaiy, are more ambitious of emoluments, than the 
good of the country. It is furthermore stated, 
that there is more danger from the corrupting in- 
fluence of Santa Anna's gold, than from his bayo- 
nets. The necessity of forming an independent 
sovereign State immediately, in order that all her 
energies may be concentrated, is pointed out with 
great force. 

On the twenty-sixth of December, a decree ot 
the provincial Government was published, calling a 
Convention of Delegates from each municipality, 
clothed with ample powers to adopt a permanent 
form of government. The Delegates to be elected 
by the people ; all free white males, and Mexicans 
opposed to a central government, being entitled to 
vote ; and the volunteers in the army being allowed 
to vote by proxy. The whole number of Delegates 
to be fifty-six, and the Convention to be held at the 
town of Washington on the first of March. 

The Texians have been very active in raising an 
army to commence another campaign ; and it is be- 
lieved. Gen. Houston was able to take the field on 
the first of March, at the head of five or six thou- 
sand men. The Texians, it is said, are in regular 
correspondence with the large party in Mexico op- 
posed to centralism. The whole republic seems to 
be in a ferment. Gen. Mexia, who set out for Mat- 
s^moras some weeks ago, at the head of a consider- 



APPENDIX. 351 

able force, intending to invade the Mexican territo- 
ry, was believed to have made himself master of 
Tampico, whence he would act in concert with the 
Texians on the north, and the revolting Mexicans 
on the south. It was currently reported at Meta- 
moras, that several of the most influential officers 
in the Mexican army, had openly denounced cen- 
tralism, and the state of things in the republic was 
such, that Santa Anna would either be obliged to 
return to the federal system, or abandon all hopes 
^of power in Mexico. 

The true state of affairs in Mexico, however, it 
is difficult to ascertain. There are only twenty- 
seven newspapers in the country, all of which are in 
a state of subjection to Santa Anna. The only 
two opposition journals were suppressed : the edi- 
tor of one was banished to California, to enjoy " the 
wolf's loud howl on Onolaska's shore ;" the other, 
Santangele, in spite of his name, was sent to the 
United States. 

The Supreme Government, under date of the 
thirtieth of December, caused the following decree 
to be published and circulated in every district of 
the Republic. 

" Art. 1. All foreigners that may land in any 
port of the Republic, or shall make their way into 
the interior, armed and with the intention of attack- 
ing her territory, shall be regarded and punished as 
pirates, considering that they do not belong to any 



352 APPENDIX. 

nation at war with the RepubHc, and that they do 
not act under any recognized flag. 

*' Art. 2. Foreigners that land in any of our 
ports, or seek to introduce arms and ammunition by 
land through any channel in a state of insurrection 
against the orovernment of the nation, and with the 
avowed object of placing such implements of war 
in the hands of her enemies, shall be treated and 
punished in the same manner." 

This decree will not be worth, to Santa Anna, 
the paper on which it is written. It will not deter 
a single individual from carrying arms and ammu- 
nition into Texas, or of joining its army. The san- 
guinary character of the Spaniards is too well 
known and established, to ask or expect any thing 
like clemency at their hands. The Americans need- 
ed not a decree under hand and seal, to apprise 
them of the true character of the Mexicans, when 
the history of the last twenty-five years is fresh in 
remembrance. 

An embargo has also been laid, by order of the 
Mexican government, on the ports of Tampico and 
Metamoras, against Mexican vessels ; and on all the 
ports of Mexico against American ships. No in- 
gress nor egress from the ports is now permitted. 
The foolish expedition planned by Mexia may have 
led to this resort, as well as the state of affairs in 
Texas. 

Santa Anna, believing that the permanency of 
his own power depends upon the subjugation of 



APPENDIX. 353 

Texas, is actively engaged in raising troops for an- 
other campaign. It is reported that three or four 
thousand men, under the command of Gen.Urrea, 
are on their way to the frontier. It is also report- 
ed, that he has called to his aid the Comanches and 
other tribes of Indians ; and persuaded them to de- 
clare war against Texas ; and has promised them 
the territory of Texas as a reward. The Indians 
have known the Spaniards too long to place any 
reliance upon their promises. They may, indeed, 
excite them to a war ; but it is as likely to prove as 
disastrous to themselves, as to the Texians. The 
Indians are unsafe allies. Like the war-elephants 
of ancient times, they often injure friends more than 
foes. It is certain, that a deadly hatred has existed 
for a long series of years, between the Spaniards 
and Indians ; and it is believed, no permanent 
friendship or alliance can be formed between them. 
They have much more friendship for the Ameri- 
cans, than for the Spaniards ; and if they call them 
into action, it may prove disastrous only to them- 
selves. The Indians are as hard to direct and con- 
trol, as a fire on their own boundless prairies. The 
fire, uncontrolled by him who kindles it, sweeps 
over the plain, where the wind happens to drive ; so 
the wild Indian, regardless of friend or foe, hurries 
on to kill and plunder, where his savage fury hap- 
pens to impel him. But on another ground, Santa 
Anna had better take heed. Exciting the Indians 
to kill and plunder, is a game that tv/o can play at. 



354 APPENDIX. 

The Texians have greater rewards to offer. They 
can promise them all Mexico, with its many victims 
and much plunder. 

In conformity to the custom of nations, the Tex- 
ians have adopted a flag. It contains a number of 
stripes, and but a single star ; and has inscribed up- 
on it the significant word, ' Independence.' On 
the twenty-second day of January, the New-Or- 
leans Greys paraded at their encampment, near the 
mouth of the Brazos river, to display and honor their 
flag. At the discharge of a signal gun, William 
Walker, of Portsmouth, N. H., v/ho signalized him- 
self at the capture of San Antonio, had the honor 
of running it up, for the first time, on a stately 
flag-staff. The company presented arms, and fired 
a salute. Just at this time, a volunteer company, 
on board the steamboat Yellow Stone, from New- 
Orleans, came up the river, hailed the waving ban- 
ner, fired a salute, and gave three cheers as they 
passed. The arrival of such efficient aid, at the 
moment the national flag was first unfurled, was 
deemed a happy omen ; and that it may continue 
to wave over Texas, independent and free, is the 
fervent wish of every true son of freedom. 

Post offices and mail routes have been establish- 
ed, and a Post Master General appointed. The 
length of all these mail routes, taken together, 
amount to about eight hundred miles. For a num- 
ber of years, there has been no mail connection 
between the United States and Texas j but as the 



APPENDIX. 355 

communication is now so great, regular mails will 
be established between them. 

Texas is in a critical situation ; but it is believed, 
her cause is far from being desperate. Were Mex- 
ico united, and could she bring all her force to bear 
upon the contest, with the activity and zeal of 
American freemen, Texas would be crushed at a 
blow. Santa Anna's journals do indeed say, that 
the whole country is united in the present form of 
government, and perfect tranquillity prevails ; but 
private letters contradict this statement altogether. 
They inform us, that Generals Bravo and Alvarey 
had united, taken the important town of Acapulco, 
on the Pacific, denounced Santa Anna, and declar- 
ed for the constitution. In consequence of this 
movement, one hundred and fifty mules loaded with 
money and ammunition, and five hundred men left 
the city of Mexico for that quarter, about the last 
of January. It was believed, this news would bring 
Santa Anna from Saltillo to the seat of govern- 
ment. 

From all accounts, it appears certain, that the 
Mexican army, three thousand strong, have left 
their encampment at Saltillo, for the frontier of 
Texas. It is formed into two divisions, the one 
commanded by Sesma ; the other, by Cos, and the 
chief in command is Gen. Urrea. It is reported 
that a simultaneous attack upon Goliad and San An- 
tonio, is meditated. It is highly probable, the Tex- 



356 APPENDIX. 

ians are fully prepared for their reception, and will 
be able to give a good account of them. 

The thin settled State of Texas, with a popula- 
tion of some flfty thousand, comparatively, without 
arms and resourses, and having no organized gov- 
ernment, engaging in a war with sixteen States, 
with a population of eight millions, reminds one 
of the stripling David, going out in the valley of 
Elah, to give battle to the Philistine of Gath. It 
requires an unusual degree of boldness and daring, 
to form the resolution, and to commence a war, 
with such an immense disparity of force. But the 
race is not always to the swift, nor the battle to 
the strong. 

The Texians, and the gallant spirits that have 
hastened to their aid and rescue, compared in num- 
ber with their enemy, are indeed but a handful of 
men ; but, like the Spartan band of former times, 
they have lion-hearts and vigorous arms. What 
men dare, they dare ! They have staked their all 
upon the issue. They have drawn the sword, and 
thrown away the scabbard. Exterminated they 
may be, but not subdued. Before such a band, 
numbers are of no avail ; before such opponents, 
well may tyrants tremble. 

The first campaign has ended in the complete 
overthrow of the Mexican force, in Texas, The 
whole course of the campaign has been signally 
jnarked by a series of battles, and almost bloodless 
victories, on the part of the Texians ; and by con- 



APPENDIX. 357 

tinued defeat, loss and discomfiture on the part of 
their enemy. The Mexicans have lost much, in 
men, arms and treasure ; and have won nothing 
but disgrace. Of honor, they had none to loose. 

Santa Anna has thousands of men at his com- 
mand, but they do not possess the chivalrous spirit 
of the sons of freedom. Judging from the past, 
his career may be short ; but as his subjects know 
not the value of liberty, and are not sufficiently ed- 
ucated for its rational enjoyment, a long list of ty- 
rants may rapidly succeed him. But hght begins 
to break in upon that benighted corner of the earth. 
The goddess of liberty, who in former times tried 
her infant voice in the halls and on the hills of 
JVew-England, utters it now, with a power that 
seems to wake the dead, on the plains of Mexico, 
and along the sides of the Andes. 

On the part of the Texians, the struggle may be 
long and severe. They may be compelled to fight 
battle after battle, and obtain victory after victory ; 
and suffer also, many reverses and defeats, before 
the scene of this awful tragedy closes. But it is 
confidently believed, that they will finally succeed 
in their effort, to become an independent nation, 
and to establish a free, elective government, based 
upon the equal rights of the people. 



358 APPENDIX. 



!§ecoii€l Campaign. 

The second campaign commenced much sooner 
than was generally expected. It was believed by 
the Texians, that after the complete and signal 
overthrow of the Mexican forces in the first cam- 
paign, Santa Anna would not be able to raise an- 
other invading army, and make his appearance in 
Texas, before midsummer. In this, they were 
mistaken. Santa Anna, believing that the stabihty 
of his own government depended upon a vigorous 
prosecution of the war, by extraordinary exertions, 
raised an army of five thousand men, and by forced 
marches was enabled to make his appearance in 
Texas about the twentieth of February. This 
early and unexpected appearance of an invading 
army, accounts for the fact, that the Texians were 
so illy prepared for their reception. 

On the twenty third of February, Santa Anna, 
who, contrary to general expectation, commanded 
in person, appeared before the town of San Anto- 
nio, at the head of the advanced division of his 
army, amounting to a thousand men. At this time, 
less than two thousand Texians were in arms in 
the whole province. Of these, only a hundred 
and fifty men, under the command of Col. W. B. 
Travis, were stationed at San Antonio — five hun- 
dred men, under Col. Fanning, were at Goliad, a 



APPENDIX. 359 

hundred and twenty-five miles to the south ; and 
one thousand men, under Gen. Houston, at Gon- 
zales, sixty miles to the east of this position. 

San Antonio de Bexar is situated on a branch 
of the San Antonio river, which is here but a 
small stream, that can easily be crossed by slight 
wooden bridges. Most of the dwelling houses are 
on the west side of the river, but the fort is on 
the east side. This fort, called the Alamo, or Elm 
Tree fort, covers two acres of ground, and is sur* 
rounded by a thick stone wall, twenty feet high. 
Its position was injudiciously selected. It is situa- 
ted in a valley, having elevated positions in the 
rear, from which balls may be thrown directly into 
the fort. It may therefore, be deemed an indefen- 
sible fortress. 

On the arrival of this division, Santa Anna took 
possession of the town, and demanded an uncon- 
ditional surrender of the fort, or the whole garri- 
son would indiscriminately be put to the sword. 
The intrepid Col. Travis answered this demand 
by a cannon shot. Immediately, a bombardment 
from a five inch howitzer, and a heavy cannonade 
commenced, which was continued for twenty-four 
hours. This was sustained by the Texians with- 
out the loss of a single man, while they made a 
terrible slaughter in the ranks of their beseigers. 
From five to six hundred of the enemy are report- 
ed to have been killed and wounded. 



360 APPENDIX. 

About this time, a party of seventy men, under 
the command of Col. Johnson, while leconoitering 
to^he westward of San Patricio, were surrounded 
in the night, by a large body of Mexican troops. 
In the morning, the commander sent in a summons 
to surrender at discretion, which was refused ; but 
an offer was made to surrender as prisoners of war. 
This was acceeded to by the Mexican officer; but 
no sooner had the party marched out of their en- 
campment, and stacked their arms, than the mean, 
cowardly, blood-thirsty Mexicans commenced a 
general fire upon the defenceless prisoners! An 
attempt was made to escape by flight — three 
only effected it, among whom was Col. Johnson — > 
the others were shot down and basely murdered. 

On the twenty-fifth of February, an assault was 
made upon the fort, an account of which, we give 
in the words of Col. Travis' despatch to Gen. 
Houston :— 

^'To-day at ten o'clock, A. M. some two or three 
hundred crossed the river below, and came up un- 
der cover of the houses, until they arrived within 
point blank shot, when we opened a heavy dis- 
charge of grape and canister on them, together 
with a well directed fire from small arms, which 
forced them to halt and take shelter in the houses 
about eighty or a hundred rods from our batteries. 
The action continued to rage for about two hours, 
when the enemy retreated in confusion, dragging 
off their dead and wounded. 



APPENDIX. 361 

During the action, the enemy kept up a con- 
tinual bombardment, and discharge of balls, grape 
and canister. We know from observation, that 
many of the enemy were killed and wounded — 
while we, on our part, have not lost a man. Two 
or three of our men have been slightly scratched by 
pieces of rock, but not disabled. I take great 
pleasure in stating, that both officers and men, con- 
ducted themselves with firmness and bravery. — 
Lieut. Simmons of the Cavalry, acting as Infantry, 
and Captains Carey and Dickerson and Blair of 
the Artillery, rendered essential services, and Chas* 
Despallier and Robert Brown, gallantly sallied out 
and set fire to the houses, which afforded the ene- 
my shelter, in the face of the enemy's fire. In- 
deed the whole of the men, who were brought in- 
to action, conducted themselves with such undaun- 
ted heroism, that it would be injustice to discrimin- 
ate. The Hon. David Crocket was seen at all 
points, animating the men to do their duty. Our 
numbers are few, and the enemy still continues to 
approximate his works to ours. I have every rea- 
son to apprehend an attack from his whole force 
very soon. But I shall hold out to the last ex- 
tremity." 

On the first of March, thirty-two men from 
Gonzales, forced their way through the enemy's 
lines, and entered the fort — increasing the number 
to one hundred and eighty-two. Between the 
twenty-fifth of February and the fifth of March;, 



362 



APPENDIX. 



the Mexicans were employed in erecting breast- 
works around the fort, bombarding the place and 
bartering the walls. On the second ©f March, 
Col. Travis wrote, that more than two hundred 
shells had been thrown into the fort without injur- 
ing a man. I 

In the mean time, the Mexicans continued to- 
receive re-enforcements. The whole force amoun- 
ted to about forty-five hundred men. It consisted 
of forty companies of Infantry, numbering about 
seventy men each, under Generals Sesma and Cos; 
and fifteen hundred Cavalry, under Gen. Felisolas ; 
and the whole commanded by Santa Anna in per- 
son. I 

On the sixth of March, about midnight, a gert-, 
eral assault was made upon the fort by the entire^ 
Mexican force. The walls were weak, the balls- 
from the batteries had passed through them, and,' 
in some places, had become somewhat dilapidated.' 
The cavalry surrounded the fort, and the infantry,' 
well supplied with scaling ladders attempted to en- 
ter the fort on all sides at the same time. [ 

The Texians fought desperately until daylight,' 
when seven only of the garrison were found alive. 
We regret to say, that Col. David Crockett and his 
companion Mr. Benton, also the gallant Col. Ben- 
ham of South-Carolina, were of the number who 
cried for quarter, but they were told that there was 
no mercy for them. They then continued fight- 
ing until the whole were butchered. One woman 



APPENDIX. 363 

('Mrs. Dickinson) and a wounded negro servant of 
Col. Travis, were the only persons in the Alamo 
whose lives were spared. Col. Bowie was mur- 
dered in his bed, sick and helpless. Gen. Cos, on 
entering the fort ordered Col. Travis' servant to 
point out to him the body of his master; he did 
so, when Cos drew his sword and mangled his face 
and limbs with the malignant feeling of a savage. 
The bodies of the slain were thrown into a heap 
in the centre of the Alamo and burned. On Col. 
Bowie's body being brought out, Gen. Cos said that 
he was too brave a man to be burned like a dog; 
then added, — never mind, throw him in. The loss 
of the Mexicans in storming the place was estima- 
ted at no less than one thousand men killed and 
mortally wounded, and as many more disabled — 
making, with their loss in the first assault, between 
two and three thousand killed and wounded. It 
is worthy of remark that the flag of Santa Anna's 
army at Bexar was a blood red one, in place of the 
old constitutional tri-colored flag. Immediately 
after the capture of the place, Gen. Santa Anna 
sent Mrs. Dickinson and Col. Travis' servant to Gen. 
Houston's camp, accompanied by a Mexican with a 
flag, who was bearer of a note from Santa Anna, 
offering the Texians peace and a general amnesty, 
if they would lay down their arms and submit to his 
government. Gen. Houston's reply was, "True sir, 
you have succeeded in killing some of our brave 
men, but the Texians are not yet conquered." 



364 APPENDIX. i 

Thus fell the brave defenders of San Antonio. 
Among the heroes, who perished in the unequal 
conflict, were Col. W. B. Travis, CoK Jas. Bowie 
and Col. David Crockett, formerly a member of 
Congress from the State of Tennessee — every one 
of whom was himself a host. By a compari- 
scHi of dates, it appears that this little garrison of 
one hundred and eighty-two men, held out eleven 
days against the repeated attacks of an army 
amounting at last, by constant re-enforcements, to 
five thousand men. All that the most determined 
bravery could achieve, was accomplished by the be- 
sieged. Although worn down by fatigue and want 
of sleep, which the continual alarms and discharg- 
es of artillery rendered nearly impossible, while 
the more numerous besiegers could relieve each 
other, the brave band in the fort did not die una^ 
vended. In the various attacks from first to last, 
it is probable that they destroyed of the enemy, 
eight or ten times their own number. The histo- 
ry of their achievements and sufferings, in this me- 
morable siege, may never be known in detail ; but 
enough is revealed to immortalize the names of 
these martyrs in the cause of liberty, and to stamp 
with eternal infamy and disgrace their remorseless 
besiegers. Something of the chivalrous spirit that 
animated and sustained this truly Spartan band 
during this trying occasion, may be seen by the 
despatch of Col. Travis, addressed to his fellow 
citizens and compatriots, during the seige. He 



APPENDIX. 365 

says, "I shall defend myself to the last extremity, 
and die as becomes a soldier. I never intend to 
retreat or surrender. Victory or Death." 

This was the first victory obtained by the Mexi- 
cans; and the slaughter of the whole garrison 
confirmed, what was before suspected, that the 
contest on their part, was to be a war of extermin- 
ation. No quarter is to be given, or only granted 
to be violated The bloody butcheries of defence- 
less prisoners, as might have been expected, had the 
opposite effect intended. Instead of striking ter- 
ror and dismay into the ranks of the Texians, and 
palsying their efforts, it only served to arouse and 
awaken them into more vigorous action. Every 
man, capable of bearing arms, shouldered his rifle, 
and marched in double quick time to the theatre of 
war. The news caused a general excitement 
throughout the United States. New-Orleans ex- 
hibited all the hurry and bustle of a camp ; and 
the western and southern riflemen, by hundreds 
and fifties, hurried on to the scene of slaughter, to 
avenge the death of their murdered countrymen. 

The character of Gen. Cos stands out in bold 
relief, as the meanest of the mean. When he and 
his command were made prisoners of war by the 
Texians on this very spot of his present savage 
triumphs, they were humanely treated, and suffered 
to return home on their parole of honor. This sol- 
emn pledge, universally acknowledged and observed 
by all civilized nations, and all honorable men, Cos 
31* 



APPENDIX. 

has seen fit to disregard. lie again appears in 
arms, and has forfeited his parole of honor. He 
now stands before the world, in the character of an 
outlaw. But, as if this were not sufficient to brand 
his name with infamy, he seemed determined that 
his actions should be in perfect keeping with his de- 
graded sense of honor ; so as to exhibit to the 
world, the humiliating spectacle of a character en- 
tirely perfect in treachery and baseness. There- 
fore, instead of waging war according to the rules 
of civilized nations, he basely murdered the sick in 
their beds, and mutilated the bodies of the slain ; 
and instead of decently burying the dead, he threvy 
their bodies into a heap and burnt them like dogs ! 
A fit instrument, in the hands of Santa Anna, to 
teach the people of Texas, the blessings of Cen- 
tralism ! But it does not require much forecast to 
predict, that the Mexicans have kindled a flame at 
St. Antonio, that many waters will not be able to 
quench, — that the day of severe retribution and 
bloody vengeance is nigh. And when it shall have 
arrived, where will be the voice to plead for such 
remorseless murderers as these ! 

On the second day of March, the people of Tex- 
as, by their delegates, made a declaration of Inde- 
pendence. It is called, " the unanimous declara- 
tion of Independence, made by the Delegates of 
the People of Texas, in General Convention, made 
at the town of Washington, on the second day of 
March; 1836." It is an able state paper, written 



APPENDIX. 36*7 

with much spirit and vigor ; but, in gracefuhiess of 
style and force of expression, it does not equal 
its model — the celebrated Declaration of Independ- 
ence of the United States, from the polished pen 
of a Jefferson, It contains a statement of griev- 
ances, which is submitted to an impartial world, in 
justification of the hazardous but unavoidable step, 
of severing their connection v/ith the Mexican peo- 
ple, and of assuming an independent attitude among 
the nations of the earth. As it is too long to be 
inserted in this sketch, the following extract, which 
of itself contains a sufficient reason for the 'hazard- 
ous step' taken, must suffice. 

"The Mexican government, by its colonization 
laws, invited and induced the Anglo-American pop- 
ulation of Texas, to colonize the wilderness, under 
the pledged faith of a written constitution, that 
they should continue to enjoy that constitutional 
liberty and republican government to which they 
had been habituated in the land of their birth, the 
United States of America. In this expectation, 
they have been cruelly disappointed — as the Mexi- 
can nation has acquiesced in the late changes made 
HI the government by General Antonio Lopez de 
Santa Anna ; who, having overturned the consti- 
tution of this country, now offers us the cruel al- 
ternative, either to abandon our own homes, acquir- 
ed by so many privations, or submit to the most in- 
tolerable of all tyranny, the combined despotism of 
the sword and the priesthood." 



368 APPENDIX. 

Of this convention, Richard Ellis was President, 
and W. S. Kimball, Secretary. When the news 
of the fall of San Antonio arrived at the Conven- 
tion, a powerful appeal to the people of the United 
States, was immediately adopted, and sent to New- 
Orleans to be published in the newspapers. A 
constitution was formed, and the officers of gov- 
ernment appointed as follows : — 

David G. Burnet, Pres. of the Republic of Texas- 
Lorenzo D. Za.valla, Vice President. 
Sabiuel p. Carson, Secretary of State. 
Thomas I. Rush, Secretary of War. 
Bailey Hardman, Secretary of the Treasury 
Robert Potter, Secretary of the Navy. 
David Thomas, Attorney General. 
I. R. Jones, Postmaster General. 

President Burnet is a native of Newark in New- 
Jersey, by profession a lawyer — a gentleman of ed- 
ucation, accomplished manners and of the purest 
integrity. 

Immediately after the capture of San Antonio, 
Goliad was beseiged by the enemy under the com- 
mand of Gen. Urrea. Colonel Fanning, contrary 
to his own judgment, but in obedience to positive 
instructions from Gen. Houston, blew up the fort 
and commenced a retreat to the main army. His 
force amounted to about three hundred and fifty 
men, and seven pieces of artillery. They had pro- 



APPENDIX. 369 

ceeded about eight miles to the eastward of the fort, 
when they were surrounded in a large prairie, by 
two thousand Mexicans, consisting of infantry and 
cavalry. The advance guard of twenty-five men 
under Col. Wharton were, by this movement cut off 
from the main force ; and believing it to be a mere 
waste of life to return, they continued on, and 
escaped. 

Col. Fanning evacuated the fort on the nine- 
teenth of March ; and it was about four o'clock, in 
the afternoon of the same day, that the attack com- 
menced, and lasted until sometime into night. The 
cavalry made many charges upon them in rapid 
succession, but were repulsed with great slaughter. 
Col. Fanning continued fighting and retreating, un- 
til he gained a small grove of post-oaks in the midst 
of the prairie. This afforded him a suflicient pro- 
tection from the charges of the cavalry, and the 
battle ceased. Col. Fanning's loss was inconsid- 
erable, but one hundred and ninety of the enemy 
were ascertained to have been slain, and as many 
more wounded. 

This grove was immediately surrounded by the 
enemy, and a renewal of the battle was expected 
in the morning. Col. Fanning, well knowing es- 
cape to be impossible, entrenched himself during the 
night and was resolved not to die unavenged. In 
the morning, however, the enemy showed a white 
flag, and Col. Fanning went out to meet the Mex- 
ican General. A capitulation was made with the 



370 APPENDIX. 

usual forms of nonorable warfare: Col. Fanning 
was to lay down his arms, and march back to Go- 
liad, where they were to remain six or eight days 
as prisoners of war, to be shipped to New-Orleans 
from Copano. They surrendered on these condi- 
tions ; on the sixth day after their arrival at Goliad, 
they were assured that a vessel was ready to receive 
them at Copano, to embark for New-Orleans, and 
Col. Fanning marched out in file, the Mexicans each 
side of him. They were marched down about five 
miles, when the order was given to fire upon them. 
At the first fire, nearly every man fell — a Mr. Had- 
din of Texas and three others succeeded in reach- 
ing some bushes about one hundred yards distant. 
They were pursued by the enemy into the high 
grass, where they lost sight of them. Haddin re- 
mained in the grass all night ; in the morning he 
succeeded in making his escape. 

It is difficult to speak of such cowardly and 
more than savage massacres, with any tolerable de- 
gree of composure. The deeds of Santa Anna 
are written in blood, and every triumph but deep- 
ens the stain. 

If the first campaign was all victory, the second 
has hitherto been all defeat. The affairs of Texas 
appear to have been badly managed. San Antonio, 
being an indefensible position, ought to have been 
abandoned at once ; but Goliad, the strongest for- 
tress in Texas, ought to have been maintained to 
the last. It would have kept the southern division 



APPENDIX. 371 

in check, and given time to the Texians to have re- 
ceived re-enforcements, so that they could have 
prosecuted the war with vigor and success. 

Gen. Houston, after the capture of San Antonio, 
retreated from Gonzales to the Colorado, and then, 
to the Brazos river. The southern half of Texas, 
being thus left destitute of any armed force, the in- 
vading army had nothing to do but to march for- 
ward into the interior, and to make war upon un- 
armed citizens and travellers, and defenceless wo- 
men and children. The Mexican army proceeded 
in two divisions of about two thousand men each ; 
the one, on the line of the sea coast ; the other, 
about one hundred miles in the interior towards San 
Felipe ; and troops of horse scoured the country in 
various directions between them. A general alarm 
and dismay seized the inhabitants. On the north 
the Indians, incited by Santa Anna, were reported 
to have embodied in force, and were proceeding 
into the country, to plunder and slaughter ; from 
the south, approached the Mexican army, more 
savage than the Indians, waging a war of extermi- 
nation ! Before such merciless foes, the inhabitants 
fled, like clouds of dust before t he storm. The peril 
was so imminent, that they were obliged to aban- 
don all their possessions and flee for life. Some 
went to the sea coast and embarked on board vessels 
for New-Orleans ; others crossed the Sabine river 
into Louisiana. The settlements of Texas, to the 
south of the Brazos, were entirely broken up, and 



379 APPENDIX. 

the whole country became the theatre of armiear, 
battles, murders and massacres. 

Among the inhuman massacres committed, wo 
shall notice two only. The first is that of seventy- 
three emigrants, who left New-Orleans in a schoon- 
er, for Copano. They were landed unarmed at 
that port, trusting themselves to the power of the 
Mexicans ; but in less than two hours, they were 
all butchered by the soldiers in sight of the vessel I 
The schooner escaped to Matagorda. The other 
case is that of Dr. Harrison, the son of Gen. Har- 
rison of Ohio. He was travelling with three other 
American gentlemen, when they were all taken> 
their bodies horridly mutilated, their bowels torn 
out, and then left in that situation a prey to the 
vultures ! 

Some small skirmishes took place at sea, in which 
the Texians were successful. They captured one 
schooner loaded with ammunition and supplies foi' 
the Mexican army ; and sunk another, after a run- 
ning fight with the Invincible. But neither party 
have much of a naval force. 

At this critical juncture of alarm and distress. 
Gen. Gaines, the commander Of the United States 
troops at fort Jessup, marched to the line of Texas 
to keep the Indians in check, and to prevent their 
joining the Mexican forces ; and for the purpose of 
carrying his plans into complete effect, he called 
upon the Governors of the adjacent States for a 
number of regiments of mounted men. This was 



APPENDIX. 373 

a wise and humane movement. The Indians in the 
upper regions of Texas and on the frontiers of the 
United States, are numerous and warhke ; and 
when engaged in war, they neither respect territo- 
rial hnes, nor the rules of civilized nations. They 
inhabit the country from latitude thirty-four degrees 
north on Red River, to the Rio del Norte, extend- 
ing to the road that leads from St. Louis (Mo.) to 
Santa Fe; south to the head waters of Trinity, 
Guadaloupe, Brazos and Colorado rivers of Texas — 
a country in length six hundred miles, and breadth 
from two hundred and fifty to four hundred miles, 
mostly prairie. The different tribes are Camanches, 
Kyawas, Towash or Southern Pawnees, Caddoes, 
Wacoes and Skiddies. They number about thirty- 
five thousand in all, and can muster from seven to 
eight thousand restless warriors in this great West- 
ern Prairie. 

The reported movements of the Indians, however, 
proved to be greatly exaggerated. Some small 
parties started for the theatre of the war, but were 
induced by the prompt action and warning of Gen. 
Gaines, to return home and be quiet. Being assu- 
red that the Indians would remain peaceable, Gen. 
Gaines countermanded his call upon the States for 
mounted volunteers, and marched his forces back 
to fort Jessup and Nachitoches. 

The affairs of Texas, at this time wore a gloomy 
aspect. All the expeditions into Mexico, beyond 
the limits of Texas, proved disastrous and unsuc- 

32 



374 APPENDIX. 

cessful. The people of the Mexican States proved 
to be more united in Centrahsm than was expected. 
The aid, which many so sanguinely anticipated 
from that quarter, proved a mere illusion. It now 
became manifest, that the Texians, with such aid as 
they could obtain from the United States, must fight 
her own battles single handed, against the combin- 
ed forces of all the Mexican provinces. 

Gen. Houston, after remaining sometime at his 
encampment on the Brazos river, retreated about 
thirty miles further, and crossed the San Jacinta. 
Santa Anna, with one division of his army, crossed 
the Brazos fifteen miles below San Felipe, and took 
the road to Harrisburg. The object of Gen. Hous- 
ton seems to have been, to retire before the invad- 
ing army, until it arrived into the centre of the coun- 
try, and then, give them battle. Although by this 
course, he left half of the State to the ravages of 
the enemy, yet he deemed this step unavoidable. 
His force was too small to hazard all, upon the is- 
sue of a battle, far away from reinforcements and 
supphes. 

On the nineteenth of April, General Houston's 
scouts took a courier, who gave information that the 
Mexican Army were near at hand, on the west side 
of the San Jacinta river. Immediately, General 
Houston, at the head of about seven hundred 
effective men, took up the line of march and ar- 
rived in sight of the enemy on the morning of the 
twentieth. The day was spent in reconoitering 



APPENDIX. 375 

the enemy, and exchanging a few shots between the 
artillery without much effect on either side. But 
the particulars of this battle and glorious victory, 
which resulted in the 

Capture of Santa Anna, 

and the entire division under his command, we shall 
give in the words of a number of individuals who 
were in the contest. 

" On the morning of the twenty-first, the ene- 
my commenced manoeuvering, and we expected to 
be attacked in our camp, as they had received a re- 
inforcement of five hundred men, which made them 
twelve hundred strong ; but they settled down and 
continued throwing up a breast work, which they 
had commenced at the first news of our approach. 
We commenced the attack upon them at half past 
four o'clock, P. M. by a hot fire from our artillery, 
consisting of two ordinary four pounders. The 
enemy returned our fire with a long brass nine 
pounder. The contest was a regular battle. The 
Texians, notwithstanding the great disparity of 
force, positively demanded of Gen. Houston to 
fight. Consequently, he ordered an advanced guard 
against the Mexican ; yet enjoined them not to at- 
tack, but retreat, to bring the enemy into a defile. 
This being accomplished, Houston immediately 
flanked and attacked him in front and on both 
sides — opening first with artillery, which, on the sec- 
ond fire, dispersed to atoms the powder boxes of 



376 APPENDIX. 

the Mexicans; and then with rifles. The Texians 
then rushed in from their ambuscade, with pistols, 
knives and hatchets, and completed the work of de- 
struction. The fight lasted about fifteen minutes, 
when Santa Anna ordered a retreat. The Mexi- 
can soldiers then threw down their arms, most of 
them without firing 1 and begged for quarters. The 
officers broke and endeavored to escape. The 
mounted riflemen, however, soon overtook all but 
one, who distanced the rest ; him they ran fifteen 
miles, when his horse bogged down in the prairie 
near the Brasses timber ; he then made for the tim- 
ber on foot. His pursuers in the eagerness of the 
chase, dashed into the same bog, and continued the 
pursuit on foot, following the trail of the fugitive, 
which was very plain, ovi^ing to the recent rains, un- 
til they reached the timber, where it was lost. The 
pursuers then spread themselves and searched the 
woods for a long time in vain, when it occurred to 
an old Hunter that the chas.e might, like a hard 
pressed bear, have taken a tree. The tree tops 
were then examined, when io, the game was discov- 
ered snugly ensconced in the forks of a large live 
oak. The captors did not know who the prisoner 
was, until they reached the camp, when the Mexi- 
can soldiers exclaimed, " El General, El, General 
Santa Anna !" " 

Never was a victory more decisive and complete. 
Six hundred of the enemy were left dead upon the 
field^ and as many more taken prisoners. Among 



APPENDIX. 377 

the killed were, Gen. Cos, who was rtcognized by 
a soldier after the battle, and immediately shot ; 
Gen. Castrillion, Col. Batnes, Col, Triviuo, Col. 
Don Jose Maria Remero, Lieut. Col. Castillo. 

Among the prisoners were Gen. Antonio Lo- 
pez DE Santa Anna, his five aids, six Colonels, 
five Captains, and twelve Lieutenants. 

Houston was wounded in the ancle by a musket 
ball in the early part of the engagement ; but re- 
mained on his horse until it terminated. 

On the part of the Texians. only six men were 
killed and twenty wounded ! The history of war 
does not furnish a parallel to this splendid victory ; 
but Gen. Houston did not tarnish the laurels so 
gallantly won, by following the example of the 
Mexicans, in shooting his prisoners of war. They 
were removed to Galveston Island ; and Gen. San- 
ta Anna and his officers were put on board of an 
armed schooner, and anchored off the shore. Gen. 
Santa Anna made a proposition that all his army in 
Texas should lay down their arms — the Independ- 
ence of Texas acknowledged — the expense of the 
war to be paid by Mexico, and himself to remain 
as a hostage. These were to be the terms of 
peace ; but, unfortunately, he does not possess the 
power to fulfil them. Mexico will not probably, ei- 
ther agree to pay the expense of the war, or to ac- 
knowledge the Independence of Texas. The Tex- 
ian war is national in Mexico ; and Santa Anna con-, 
tinued his power solely by directing the popular fu- 

32* 



378 ' APPENDIX. 

ry against T^xas. His death would give general 
satisfaction through the Mexican repubhc ; and the 
Texian war will enable some other brave to rise in-, 
to power in Mexico. 

Although this signal victory may not terminate 
the war in Texas, as there are still nearly three 
thousand Mexicans there, under Generals Ardrade, 
Urrea and Sesma ; and about five thousand more 
at Saltillo, ready to enter ; yet we believe, it fully 
settles the question of Texian Independence. The 
capture of Santa Anna will cause a new revolution 
in Mexico, and a new organization of government. 
The Texians will gain time to prepare for the con- 
test. Aid, effective and sufficient, will be received 
from the United States ; and it is not probable that 
another general will be found, to prosecute the war 
with the experience and vigor of Santa Anna. 

The question respecting the acknowledgement 
of the independence of Texas by the United States, 
has been moved and discussed in Congress. There 
seems to be a diversity of opinion among our citi- 
zens, whether it would be preferable to acknowl- 
edge its independence, or to have it annexed to the 
United States. Our opinion is, that for all the use- 
ful purposes of a good government, the territorial 
limits of the United States are already sufficiently 
extensive. If more territory were added, the na- 
tion would become too unwieldly to be well man- 
aged, and in time would fall to pieces. Texas, of 



APPENDIX. 379 

itself, has larger territorial 'iniits thai\ many of the 
nations of Europe ; and when it shall Uave gained 
its independence, if wise heads and pure hearts 
take the lead in its government, it will soonbeset- 
ded and become a powerful nation 



880 



APPENDIX. 



San Felipe is tlw Iiead quarters of Austin's Colony. It is situated 
on the south baoA of the Brazos river, a hundred miles from the sea. 
It is three hundred miles south-west from Natchitoches, and five hun- 
dred miles west of New-Orleans. The following table shows the dis- 
tance and bearing of the principal towns in Texas from San Felipe, 
the names of the rivers and bays upon which they are situated, and 
their distance from the sea coast. Those accessable to sea vessels, 
have a star prefixed. 



Towns. ^^^ 


ilrtnce (locn 
in Felipe. 


1 Diiection. 


1 River or Bav on 1 
1 which it is silimted. | 


Diiiauce froia 
(he sea. 


San Antonio, 


170 


w. 


San Antonio, 


200 


St. Augustine, 
*Anahuac, 


250 
120 


N. E. 
E. 


Ayish Bayou, 
Galveston Bay, 


150 

50 


*Brazoria, 


75 


S. E. 


Brazos, 


30 


*Bolivar, 


50 


S. E. 


Brazos, 


55 


Bastrap, 
♦Columbia, 


100 
65 


N. W. 
S. E. 


Colorado, 
Brazos, 


180 

40 


Cole's Settlemnt, 


40 


N. 


Prairie, 


140 


*Copano, 
Electra, 


150 

45 


S. W. 
N. W. 


Aransaso Bay, 
Colorado, 


25 

150 


Goliad, 


125 


S. VV. 


San Antonio, 


75 


Gonzalea 
*Harrisburg, 
Liberty, 
*Linchburg, 

*Matagorda, 


125 
65 

125 
75 

100 


W. 
E. 

N E. 

N. E. 
S. 


Guadalupe, 
Galveston Bay, 
Trinity, 
Galveston Bay 
Colorado, 


180 
75 
55 

75 
20 


Montezuma, 


35 


w. 


Colorado, 


130 


*Matamoras, 


280 


s. w. 


Rio del Norte, 


45 


Monclova, 


390 


s. w. 


On Prairie, 


280 


Nacogdoches, 
*Orazimba, 


245 
55 


N. E. 
S. E. 


On Prairie, 
Brazos, 


150 
50 


^Refugio, 


290 


s. 


Rio del Nort, 


1 


San Patrick, 


180 


s. w. 


Neuces, 


50 


Tinoxtitlan, 


100 


N. W. 


Brazos, 


200 


*Velasco, 


100 


S. E. 


Brazos, 





Victoria, 


100 


S. W. 


Guadalupe, 


75 


^aviillas, 


200 


N. E. 


Neches, 


80 



^^' 



..%' ■%, 









.r.#: 



«'^-' 



''^^: v^ 



.^■ 



.4 



."9- 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




014 542 718 6 



